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11-29-2008, 04:20 PM | #1 |
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^^^^^^
Not meaning to start an arguement... Optimal wheel base depends on what kind of racing the car is used for; a shorter wheel base would be better for autox and small courses, where as the 2+2 would probably be better for larger, higher speed courses. wheel bases: 2 seater: 96.5 in. 2+2: 101.2 in. ^(I really doubt 5in. makes that much difference for general driving purposes) As far as curb weights go, the tt's are a bit heavier (due to turbo's, hicas) at about 3500 lbs. Nissan 300ZX (Z32) Performance Statistics Regardless, a car can still handle well despite extra weight (new GT-R for example, 3800 lbs.?). That being said, less weight is usually better. In the end, it all comes down to which one fits you better as far as performance needs go or which one looks better to you. Personally, Function > Form.
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11-29-2008, 04:47 PM | #2 | |
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Granted, the shorter wheelbase is nice for autocrosses, but IMO, the 2+2 is the more ideal chassis for the majority of driving events, such as road racing and drifting. Has a more neutral feel to it, while the 2+0 has the natural tendency to snap. |
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11-29-2008, 06:28 PM | #3 |
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Interesting, I've driven a z32 2 seater a little (both as n/a and tt), now I'm curious to see how a 2+2 drives... Good to know.
Very nice z by the way. A question for JRas: How close is your wheel/tire to the coilover in the front? If you have a picture... Just considering wheel options for a project and the 10" rpf1's were some I was looking at. -Thanks
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12-01-2008, 03:49 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
edit took picture:
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Last edited by JRas; 12-01-2008 at 09:09 PM.. |
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12-07-2008, 11:37 PM | #8 |
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They do!!! I normally run stock struts in the back for drag racing. I can't find any pics of it with stock stuff in on the drag radials on.
This was from the test fitting. Figured it was a good way to make sure they dont hit the fenders. Car is not really a drag car. I do road racing, auto-x, and drag racing with it when there is not snow on the ground.
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12-07-2008, 11:49 PM | #9 |
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wow you do all 3 thats cool im sure you know most people only do one and talk shit on the rest. shit i would like to drift drag and road race i guess im wierd. btw your car is super nice keep it up
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12-08-2008, 12:31 AM | #10 | |
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I am also now going to be starting rally racing in my WRX!
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12-21-2008, 08:45 PM | #11 |
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what tire should i run to have a flat side wall on 18x9 and 18x10 wheels?
im runnin`now 215/40 and 245/35, dont like the stretch look and will go with over fenders |
12-27-2008, 12:23 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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12-21-2008, 10:03 PM | #17 |
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I think a 255/275 set-up would work better, 245/275 is too much stagger. The 255's will be exactly square with the 9" front wheels, the 275's will be just a little undersquare on the 10" rear wheels.
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12-21-2008, 10:06 PM | #18 | ||
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Quote:
k, i wana run 275's rear. i have 17x10.5 + 24 wheels with a 8mm spacer. will i need more of a spacer to clear the coils or anything? |
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12-21-2008, 10:26 PM | #19 |
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245 and 275 would be a good idea, cause i could take the tyres from the rear to the front, so i only had to buy the 2 275 tyres for the rear
what do you think? |
12-27-2008, 08:51 AM | #20 |
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Hey olah.inc any updates on your car? Looking forward to seeing the 245 or 255 fronts and 275 rears. 255s as racepar1 said are square, 245 will be okay I guess, but you could take advantage of 255s... plus less stagger.
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12-27-2008, 10:35 PM | #21 | |
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but next year i will go for bigger tires, maybe semi slicks like toyo r888 or some |
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12-28-2008, 06:35 AM | #22 |
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That's the tire I want to run next. They make a 315/30-19 that I'm liking. The only downside is like the RT-615's. If they're cold, they're horrible.
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12-29-2008, 10:28 PM | #23 |
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alright i need some help... im running a 18x10 +12 in rear and when doing a pull. a dent formed above the center on the fender... here are the pics, if you can see it, how would i go about getting this dent out??
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12-29-2008, 10:32 PM | #24 |
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That's normal, happens with almost every pull. You really can't get it out though without bodywork as the metal is being held in that position by the additional pressure put on the 1/4 panel due to pulling it. No paintless dent removal for that one.
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12-31-2008, 12:01 PM | #25 | |
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1 Get a wooden mop handel and cut it off long enough to reach. 2 remove your trunk/hatch pannels 3 Check leangth make sure you can fit it in "its hella tight back there" 4 Tape some raggs on the rounded end and push slowly and easy any harsh movements will distort the metal again. Note:Next time start by streaching your fender out by usein a scissor jack w/a pice of wood in your inside wheel tub then jack then another paice of wood about 6 inches long on the insde of the outter edge.This will help by moving the metal out before you move it up thus not bucklein in.Thats how I did mine but Ive dont lots of body work.Its all by feel.Hope this helps. |
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12-27-2008, 05:42 PM | #27 |
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I'll link it since it's a domestic:
http://i43.tinypic.com/1ax4p.jpg And yes, they hid back there. I wanted to run 335s, but backed out of modding it any more and sold it.
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12-29-2008, 11:32 PM | #28 |
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the dent occurs when you don't cut slits into the lip when u roll it, from what i'm told
too late now, but useful for future if u ever have to deal with another car |
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