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Old 04-14-2007, 08:40 PM   #1
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KA24DE Rebuild Price

What did you pay for your KA24DE rebuild?

*tumbleweed*

I know there may not be many, but someone has to have taken their KA to the shop for a rebuild. The only thing I could find in the "search" was regarding rebuild kits or people saying to call the local engine rebuilder for a price quote.

If anyone wants to post what it cost them to do it themselves, feel free, but I'm really interested in what shops have charged people in the past.

Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:43 PM   #2
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Dude just hit up ebay, advance auto or whatever and get some qoutes on gaskets, piston rings, and all that shit. It all depends on how far your "rebuilding" can pocket out.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:14 PM   #3
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Around 400 dollars to refresh the engine.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:39 PM   #4
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Bearings, headgasket, headstuds piston rings, and reseal everything...
Shouldn't be anymore than $500...
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:42 PM   #5
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i remember a reputable shop wanting $1500 for a complete rebuild(top and bottom) for oem specs.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:47 PM   #6
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No freaking way man. An engine as simple as a KA. Just follow FSM and make sure you have everything needed. Unless a grand is not worth any of you time or a weekend.
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincem
i remember a reputable shop wanting $1500 for a complete rebuild(top and bottom) for oem specs.

My price was for parts alone assuming you would do the labor...
It's really not that hard.. just need time, space, and the right tools.
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Old 04-15-2007, 03:41 AM   #8
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i payed 1185 i pulled it and droped it off top to bottom + forged pistons 500 and new 4 puck 3** clutch so about 2000 bucks all in all
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:39 AM   #9
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you could rebuild a KA for 500 bucks no problem... or..

and im not trying to be a dick that says, BUILD IT, but if you do, you might like the results better..

350 for a clutch
400 for high compression pistons
210 for SCE headgasket and ARP studs

300 for parts to rebuild motor,...

and for like 1300 bucks, you have something that'll be much more livened up
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:43 AM   #10
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I've seen Fully built "turbo ready" KA24DE's for upwards of $3000 from some shops. But that's for an entire engine, not a rebuild.
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:50 AM   #11
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If you are an ASE-level technician (L1 or L2), you could probably do a teardown and rebuild in one day. It will only cost you as much as you want to invest in parts.


On the other end of the scale, if you have no idea what you're doing, it will never be done and it will cost infinite money.


Most people who rebuild an engine for the first time will make some sort of mistake that will require a rebuild later on. The original poster's question is really hard to answer because it depends on the level of skills. If you screw up it will cost a lot more to fix than to just fix it right the first time.
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx
If you are an ASE-level technician (L1 or L2), you could probably do a teardown and rebuild in one day. It will only cost you as much as you want to invest in parts.
if you have a ball hone to deglaze and revamp the cylinder walls..... but i would suggest taking it to a machine shop and doing it the right way, widen the bore by about ten thousandths at least since your buying new pistons anyway, get somehting with a 90mm bore..to match. then you should have the block decked since its only an extra 50-60 bucks, and if you are going to someday turbo it, have the deck o-ringed, thats like an extra 140 bucks... so really, if you want to build a motor that someday you can build, you can bore it, deck it, o-ring it, and have it cleaned and blasted for liek 300 bucks...

like i said, you gotta pay to play, and with my experience, with KATs, O-ringing the deck is a good thing to do for headgasket longevity
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skate07
if you have a ball hone to deglaze and revamp the cylinder walls..... but i would suggest taking it to a machine shop and doing it the right way, widen the bore by about ten thousandths at least since your buying new pistons anyway, get somehting with a 90mm bore..to match. then you should have the block decked since its only an extra 50-60 bucks, and if you are going to someday turbo it, have the deck o-ringed, thats like an extra 140 bucks... so really, if you want to build a motor that someday you can build, you can bore it, deck it, o-ring it, and have it cleaned and blasted for liek 300 bucks...

like i said, you gotta pay to play, and with my experience, with KATs, O-ringing the deck is a good thing to do for headgasket longevity
For what you're describing you may be better off buying a shortblock with a core exchange. It may save you some money in the end.
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:34 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx
For what you're describing you may be better off buying a shortblock with a core exchange. It may save you some money in the end.
who sells bored and O-ringed shortblocks? especially with a care xchange...?
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:41 AM   #15
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Okay, this is the total cost of my KA rebuild thus far.
I had the crank polished, and the head rebuilt with new exhaust valves, valve lash set, new valve seals, tanked, and made square.
I got new rings, bearings, HG, timing chain assembly, a ball hone (to hone cylinder walls for proper ring seating) and other associated pieces and parts needed to rebuild and its costing me a little under $1000. Thats a total rebuild, without changing the bore of the motor.

And the only places I could find shortblocks at wanted over $1200 + core for theirs.
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skate07
who sells bored and O-ringed shortblocks? especially with a care xchange...?
Some shops will do a shortblock rebuild for you for less than the cost of parts + machine shop labour since they make money on parts.

I have several shops here who can do that for me. Boring and O-ring'ing the shortblock isn't that rare.

I'm not saying every shop is like that, but it's something you may want to check out before spending money. It's a simple financial decision. Do what's cheapest within your level of skills and desired quality.
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
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If anyone wants to post what it cost them to do it themselves, feel free, but I'm really interested in what shops have charged people in the past.
Thanks for the replies! I didn't think I would get this much discussion. Anyway, I have neither the tools nor the skill to do a rebuild, so it would be taken to a shop. Also, my 240 is my daily driver, so I don't plan on building it up - although I often have day dreams of swapping an SR in it, I have an MKIV Supra Turbo, so I use my "mod money" for that.
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:25 PM   #18
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Do I even need to bore out my engine block. My car has about 190k on it. And I have no problems with it except that It burns a little oil.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:25 PM   #19
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250 for the kit, did the work myself

about 100 for new clutch kit

100 for new motor mounts
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:04 AM   #20
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~50 for all your gaskets and valve seals on ebay
~50 for new piston ring set
~150 timing chain set
~150 motor mounts, tranny mount
~150 oem exedy clutch

+ XXXXXXX for replacement IACV, AIV, and whatever other nonsense you replace along the way
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Old 07-17-2007, 01:28 PM   #21
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600 with a port and polish
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:06 PM   #22
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i bought a block, with a new thermostat, new front and rear mail seal, new water pump and new oil pump for $200, a S14 head with a 3 angle valve job, new valve seals, new valves and new valve springs, and modified cams for $150, then$40 on new bearings, $40 on new piston rings. and probably $100 on gaskets... and a S14 upper intake manifold for $70 with the fuel rail and injectors... the head and block where just refinished before i bought them so i didn't take them to a machine shop to check it they where worped or anything like that... i also bought ARP head studs for $100. If i where to do it again, id probably just do an sr swap, especially since im also doing a singe cam to dual cam swap, so its cost me a little more...
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BustedS13 View Post
~50 for all your gaskets and valve seals on ebay
~50 for new piston ring set
~150 timing chain set
~150 motor mounts, tranny mount
~150 oem exedy clutch

+ XXXXXXX for replacement IACV, AIV, and whatever other nonsense you replace along the way
This
Just bag everything and take good pictures incase you forget where anything goes, follow head removal/installation specs.. Theres guides all over and the KA comes apart so easy. dont forget the cost of sending the head out to get the sew seals and decked And get bearings to..
Im doing one right now!
The damage!


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Old 06-05-2012, 02:35 AM   #24
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ebay, buy it, put it on. 1st time easy.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:48 PM   #25
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I'd say it was just over $1k for me, but I could've gone cheaper. $700 minimum for a decent rebuild.

Block: Honing, resurface- $150-200
Head: resurface- $50-$100
Felpro gasket set, thermostat, belts, piston heads, bearings, rings, valve seals, time chain guides, o-rings, hoses, and all the things that could go wrong during a rebuild..

$800 total, easy.

I'm sure I'm missing plenty in that list too.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:58 PM   #26
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Rebuild

Im doing my own but it cost a bit, i paid maybe a bit over 1k. Custom rods, crank worked on, rebuild kit wiith 89.5 pistons, new timing kit, arp head studs, went to nissan and got new main bearing bolts. Ive bought more things for it also, but just naming the actual rebuild Head and block went to machine shop. Its worth it though, this week ill have it running. Its not hard to do either, there's hella videos so you can do it yourself
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Old 05-22-2017, 03:21 PM   #27
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This thread was started a decade ago, and last bumped over 4 years ago. I appreciate you taking the time to search for an appropriate thread in which to contribute, though I'm not certain this was the best choice.
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:12 AM   #28
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Im doing my own but it cost a bit, i paid maybe a bit over 1k. Custom rods, crank worked on, rebuild kit wiith 89.5 pistons, new timing kit, arp head studs, went to nissan and got new main bearing bolts. Ive bought more things for it also, but just naming the actual rebuild Head and block went to machine shop. Its worth it though, this week ill have it running. Its not hard to do either, there's hella videos so you can do it yourself
I agree with ThatGuy but since its bumped might as well keep it going.

What was the crank work for?

There is a shop here that will give you a built short block for 3K

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-bui...ck-p-5144.html
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:30 AM   #29
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I paid about 3k in parts including machine work and I did the assembly myself. Shop said if I wanted them to do the bottom end it be an extra 150 which isnt bad.

I got
Hot tank/deck Head and block
Line hone for arp main studs
bearings for crank/rods miced and checked for good clearances around
crank was polished and balanced with rotating assembly
Piston rings gapped
new valve guides for the head (literally the most expensive part 20$ a guide)
set lash and assembled my head( had stock valves but turned out two exhaust were leaking and they free of charge replaced them with a set of BC I next day to them)
block was bored out and honed

Internals are generic for a ka build. Wiseco and manley rods, arp main/head studs, cometic gasket, oem timing and water pump, cometic gasket kit, white bunny puck clutch, stock valve train with BC valve/guides.

Breaking in the motor now. Had my car for 2 years and only put 2k miles. Im at 150ish so its going to be awhile haha.
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Old 05-23-2017, 10:00 AM   #30
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while you have it apart spend the money once and get forged internals... I payed around 1700 total for my internals, wiseco manley tomei etc. and had a friend put it all together at his school

However I'm yet to start it, hopefully in a week or two when I get the trans in and finish fabrication
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