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Old 12-09-2011, 02:53 AM   #2131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SicBastard View Post
Straight up.... 16s are dead. That being said:

You can run toyo RA1s in a 255/50 that is approved from 7-9"

PROXES RA1 | Toyo Tires

And I think kumho is making a 265. But they will cost you a pretty penny. If you puss out and run a 245 please don't bother posting back up in the Max tire thread.
Really 255's on a 7" wide wheel? Do you have an example of this?

Im open to anything possible, as long as it is functional and safe.
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:34 AM   #2132
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Quote:
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Really 255's on a 7" wide wheel? Do you have an example of this?

Im open to anything possible, as long as it is functional and safe.
Yeah I have an example, it's called the engineering specs and reccomended wheel widths reported by toyo in the link I already provided.
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:48 AM   #2133
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For conversation sake.

Epsilon mesh wheel. 15x7 0 offset.

225/50/15 BFG G-Force T/a Drag Radial.



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Old 12-09-2011, 12:55 PM   #2134
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Here's the 225 Hoosiers RS305s that I used to run on my 14x7 team dynamics. If you actually measure the width of the slicks they were much closer to a street tire that's 235 or even 245. Going to a taller wheel will make this even easier. Just follow the tire manufacturers reccomended wheel widths and you can't go wrong. The 255 RA1s are also 50 series, so that extra sidewall allows you to go a little more extreme with narrow wheel pairings.

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Old 12-09-2011, 01:13 PM   #2135
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Ive got 18X9.5 +15 with 265/35/18s front and back and its a little lower than this
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:45 PM   #2136
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Quote:
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Ive got 18X9.5 +15 with 265/35/18s front and back and its a little lower than this
Do rub in the front when u lock the wheel?
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:51 PM   #2137
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Do rub in the front when u lock the wheel?
no sir but that is due to my handy dandy tubs
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:25 PM   #2138
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For conversation sake.

Epsilon mesh wheel. 15x7 0 offset.

225/50/15 BFG G-Force T/a Drag Radial.


what kind of power do you make? do you hook on the street in first?
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:06 PM   #2139
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Quote:
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no sir but that is due to my handy dandy tubs
Nice didn't notice that.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:01 PM   #2140
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Quote:
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what kind of power do you make? do you hook on the street in first?
410whp 385Tq
2JZGTE 6265
15psi pump gas
automatic
untuned. no traction issues unless the weather is sub 35-40 degrees. haven't launched the car, we will see how the newer 3500 stall and AEM EMS and what not does to the car next season.
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:25 AM   #2141
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is it considered a "no no" to run very wide tires if your vehicle doesn't have enough power to turn them over?

What are the negative effects of running to big/wide of a tire if the power isn't there?

Damage to the gearbox?
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:53 AM   #2142
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I have a 275 on a stock auto ka. It doesn't Matter if you drive normal. Granted I have a mid frame 1jz vvti going in w/ r154.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:15 AM   #2143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spray2020 View Post
is it considered a "no no" to run very wide tires if your vehicle doesn't have enough power to turn them over?

What are the negative effects of running to big/wide of a tire if the power isn't there?

Damage to the gearbox?
Big wheels can get heavy! The relativly light 17x10.5 Halibrands I have weigh ~22 lbs. And the 275/17 falken tire I have on 'em weigh 28 pounds. That's 50 f*@%'n pounds per corner!

Compare that to the 225/15s I ran on the street in my miata. Not only are they almost 3" shorter (free lower CG without messing up your roll center) the 15x9 wheels weighed 12.8 lbs, and the tires only 22 for a total per corner of <35 lbs. Considering you have to run four of them you save 60 pounds [4x(50-35)=60] with the smaller wheel/tires per car. Oh and the 225 rubber cost almost half of what the 275s do!

Even if you just took a 60 pound brick out the back yo trunk, your 1/4 mile time should drop 0.06 seconds. But taking that same weight off of something that's recipricating (flywhee/crank/driveshaft/wheel/tire/etc.) and supposedly you can get 10 times the benefit! That's 0.6 seconds in the quarter mile. Huge! Even if you'r not a drag racer, everyone is into improved acceleration.

Lighter wheel/tires also can be accelerated up/down faster, letting dampers work more efficiently, thereby improving handling and traction.

So now that I'm done bashing big/heavy wheel/tires...
Talk to almost any experienced autocrosser or road race guy and a wider tire at one end of the car equals more grip at that end of the car, and that means lower lap times. Even the NA powered CSP autocross miatas are running 275s or wider now.

A good friend of mine had a Kouki with a bolt-on KA and two sets of wheels. A set of stock Mazda FD 16x8s (which are freakishly light) with sticky tires, and a baller set of hardparkin 18x10s. The car feels so much more sluggish with the good lookin wheels it's not even funny. Not only are the 16s lighter than the 18s, they are also shorter, which means you're getting a (free) gearing advantage. Putting on the 16s is like swapping in 4.33s for free!

So you have to balance the power you're making, the handling benefit you're actually going to utilize (even a set of sticky 225s will raise the handling limit of most cars beyond what can/should be exploited on the street), and the trade off in straight line acceleration for handling and braking with wider tires.

Unless it's a dedicated off-road race car, wider isn't always better. And if the car is underpowered that becomes even more true.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:31 AM   #2144
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Check the tire manufacturers data sheets

People are always asking, "will XYZ tire fit on a --- wide wheel?" to which I usually post a link to the tire manufacturers web sites which generally have reccomended wheel width ranges posted for every performance tire they make.

But there's is a second good reason to check out those data sheets. Some manufacturers list the tires weights. And often the same size tire will vary by 2 pounds or more between manufacturers. Would you buy a 19 pound wheel over a similar 21 pound wheel? Of course you would!

Sometimes saving 2 pounds on a wheel will cost you $300/corner. It's free if you choose your tires carefully!
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:00 PM   #2145
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^
yeah I noticed on the data sheet for the toyo RA1's how the 225/50/r16's weigh 23 lbs, and the 255/50/r16's weigh 27 lbs.

I'm already thinking of using a heavy wheel (those 2 piece super advans I posted im guessing aren't very light) and I am wondering going from a 23lb tire to a 27 lb tire will be much of a difference? That is if I go with a toyo ra1. My silvia has the stock 1.8L ca18det in it, and is only being used as a street car at the moment.

Flicktitty's s13 that he posted, gives me some good thought as to ride height and tire size- but I am curious if that car has any issues with rubbing on the inner wheel wells? Which makes me wonder if running a similar size (225/50) or larger on a 16" will have rubbing issues. Then again comparing a stock ca18det to his motor/power setup is a big difference lol.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:24 PM   #2146
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Quote:
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Flicktitty's s13 that he posted, gives me some good thought as to ride height and tire size- but I am curious if that car has any issues with rubbing on the inner wheel wells? Which makes me wonder if running a similar size (225/50) or larger on a 16" will have rubbing issues. Then again comparing a stock ca18det to his motor/power setup is a big difference lol.
no inner tire rubbing on Megan coilovers. The car has 100% stock rear fenders, NO ROLL NO PULL on them. i'll take a few pics tomorrow of the coil/wheel spacing. and some more of the fitment.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:45 PM   #2147
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no inner tire rubbing on Megan coilovers. The car has 100% stock rear fenders, NO ROLL NO PULL on them. i'll take a few pics tomorrow of the coil/wheel spacing. and some more of the fitment.
here are the pics i promised.... the lighting wasn't on my side.






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Old 12-11-2011, 10:32 PM   #2148
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Looks like you have a very slight rubbing issue with the outer part of the tire. Its crazy the rear end doesn't squat more.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:46 AM   #2149
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Looks like you have a very slight rubbing issue with the outer part of the tire. Its crazy the rear end doesn't squat more.
it does rub VERY slightly, and i honestly think it rubs going through the corners and no so much on the straight pulls. Also i usually have a bunch of tools and extra stuff in the trunk so there is more weight over the rear. Car is aligned to stock specs. and the coils are set to full soft.
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:09 PM   #2150
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nevermind...

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Old 12-21-2011, 08:55 PM   #2151
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Looking and changing wheels, found some 17x10 + 22. Without a pull there is no real way to run a 275/40/17 is there? (with close to stock camber)
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:12 PM   #2152
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Looking and changing wheels, found some 17x10 + 22. Without a pull there is no real way to run a 275/40/17 is there? (with close to stock camber)
Not even close... unless you are in 4x4 mode. I ran the same exact specs as you desire... no pull, stock camber, 275/35-18... but on a 18x10 +44. And it still rubbed if I lowered it too much. You would be poking out almost an inch more over what I had. This is as low as I could go with the above setup:

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Old 12-21-2011, 11:30 PM   #2153
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What those are +44 offset? OMG Then I can fit a 18x10 +35 with a 305 tire then?
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:50 AM   #2154
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What those are +44 offset? OMG Then I can fit a 18x10 +35 with a 305 tire then?
Uhhh, no, not even close on stock sheet metal. Unless of course you are mega 4x4.
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:57 AM   #2155
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Not even close... unless you are in 4x4 mode. I ran the same exact specs as you desire... no pull, stock camber, 275/35-18... but on a 18x10 +44. And it still rubbed if I lowered it too much. You would be poking out almost an inch more over what I had. This is as low as I could go with the above setup:

yeah, i figured i'd need something in the low - mid 40's oh well I'll keep looking.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:02 PM   #2156
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Greetings. I have a 95 240sx.

I want to get 17x9 RPF1s, and put 235/40/17s on them. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find any good information on what offset I need to select. The options are +22 and +35, and +45 for 17" RPF1. I'm going to run koni 8611 fronts and 8610s in the rear with richard's housings. 7" springs track height

Does anyone know which offset wheel I need to get? I have read that 155mm is the maximum backspacing on the s14 front, so with the 35 offset I would be 1mm too far. But maybe that is just some BS? I don't know....

thanks for any help.

edit: hm maybe I was looking at the offset calculator wrong earlier, it's showing the 35 gives me 163mm backspace which would be way too much? And the +22 gives me 150mm backspace....... So the +22 would be best?

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Old 12-29-2011, 04:51 PM   #2157
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Greetings. I have a 95 240sx.

I want to get 17x9 RPF1s, and put 235/40/17s on them. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find any good information on what offset I need to select. The options are +22 and +35, and +45 for 17" RPF1. I'm going to run koni 8611 fronts and 8610s in the rear with richard's housings. 7" springs track height

Does anyone know which offset wheel I need to get? I have read that 155mm is the maximum backspacing on the s14 front, so with the 35 offset I would be 1mm too far. But maybe that is just some BS? I don't know....

thanks for any help.

edit: hm maybe I was looking at the offset calculator wrong earlier, it's showing the 35 gives me 163mm backspace which would be way too much? And the +22 gives me 150mm backspace....... So the +22 would be best?
Yes, 22 would be the best of those options.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:44 PM   #2158
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Yes, 22 would be the best of those options.
Ok! Thanks man, I will get me some of those asap then

Actually I think I might go for some Weds tc105n.... I think they look so much nicer, but nearly 2x the cost ; ;

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Old 01-02-2012, 12:31 PM   #2159
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255/40/17x9.5 +12 ~-1* camber, super jacked quarters pulled ~1".
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:38 PM   #2160
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255/40/17x9.5 +12 ~-1* camber, super jacked quarters pulled ~1".
That would be more like "average" tire fitment, not maximum tire fitment.
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