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Old 06-28-2022, 10:21 PM   #1
Yungpapi14
 
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S14 Ignition fuse keeps popping // short ?

Hey zilvians, been on this forum for a while. Hyped to see it back into live service , was bummed when it was out ):

Having a issue on my s14, ready to turn on a fresh rb25 build. When I go to start it via ignition button. (Previous owner(s) wired up a start button) i hear a pop and found it was the 30A green fuse that pops on the fuse box in the engine bay. Now I thought it was a ground that I missed the first time. Wired it up, soldered and crimped it with those shrinks. Tied it into the ground near the interior fuse box. When to start again and popped. Question is could it be the wiring on the ignition button , or a short somewhere else; starter , harness etc ?

Thank you I?ll be looking into it more tomorrow! Thank you!
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Old 06-28-2022, 11:46 PM   #2
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There is no easy way to go about this. Especially on a custom setup that no one know how it was wired up. You're just going to need to bust out the multimeter and start probing. Your best bet will be to trace the wires, check the starter, check the relay. Something is causing a dead short somewhere. Maybe removing the added starter button circuit will simplify everything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFThdbDYL-c

https://imgur.com/a/REJOlDf
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Old 07-02-2022, 03:28 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply sr240, I had the same idea of cutting off the wires from the ignition button since they’re just soldered on. But then again there’s some other wires cut. I’ll leave a picture so everyone can see.

https://ibb.co/ZJQCLxs
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:23 PM   #4
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I agree. Start with someone else's mistake before you start chasing the dragon. Get rid of that start button and revert everything back to factory. If it doesn't work at least you can rule that out as a potential problem.

If I had to guess, I'd say it was something to do with that, popping a 30 amp fuse is impressive.
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Old 07-03-2022, 01:26 PM   #5
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Check the wires in the wheel well to make sure they’re not compromised on s14 the main ignition wiring is 3 wires that power the kick panel fusebox. Acc which should be an 8ga white green wire. The ignition / on wire which is 8ga white blue, and a 12-14ga white wire which is just the on wire that keeps the motor running and handles fuel pump and acc fans

If you’re popping the fusable link 30am which should be the white / blue id check to see if its grounding with a multimeter as others has stated.
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Old 07-05-2022, 09:37 PM   #6
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Thank you guys for all the suggestions! I currently cut off the wires for the starter button. I tried to turn it and it just turns off all the accessories. (Gauges, clock on the dash) and then reverts back on. Thankfully I think cutting away that button helped cause it’s not popping that 30a anymore! But I?ll be buying a multimeter tomorrow. Been so busy but so close to starting this thing and just gotta figure this out! But I?ll be doing that right now Om1, thank you !

Last edited by Yungpapi14; 07-05-2022 at 09:41 PM.. Reason: Spelling error
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Old 07-17-2022, 09:07 PM   #7
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Hey guys small update , got behind on this but poked around today with a multimeter, going 2 wires with no power today. Black/white & black/yellow. Anybody have a pdf for the ignition switch wiring ? Kinda stumped but I’ll be looking around more. Thank you guys
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Old 08-11-2022, 01:31 PM   #8
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I dealt with this on a KA just recently. I pulled my hold dash, and harness out but it didn't end up being anything there. It ended up being the harness after the injectors that rubbed on the motor where you can bolt a engine hoist bracket to.

I unbolted the fuse box from the chassis. Turned it upside down and then used alligator clips to hold it on to the side that went from the fuse box to my ignition cylinder. I was getting about .4ohms which was telling me that the circuit was grounding out somewhere. The hard part is here is determining where, because it necessarily doesn't mean it's that specific ignition wire. Try disconnecting the engine harness where it connects to the chassis harness to determine if it's the engine harness side that's grounding and causing the fuse to pop. Once you disconnect the harness you should read resistance instead of Ohms, the multimeter will jump to a huge high number if it's no longer grounding.
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