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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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07-31-2016, 01:59 PM | #6361 |
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Didn't find any factual info regarding KA radiator baffling so I sent an email over to Koyo & Mishimoto regarding their KA & SR radiators! I know it's more convenient for us to run KA rads as it eliminates the need for a crossover pipe. However, I've seen many people face overheating issues; whether it be not having enough CFM flow, inefficient ducting, and or efficient oil cooler setup.
Basically asked them if they made a separation baffle to utilize all the surface area in the KA radiator, instead of having an up and down flow because of the inlet/outlet being on the same side. Will update with what info I get from them. As for my cooling setup, I'm most likely going with a pusher type fan because of clearance issue, the desire to keep the core support intact & uncut, and having the A/C condenser. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/der-18212 Will be running two of them as pusher style. I believe not having a full covered shroud with a pusher setup is more efficient than having one because it would basically block the airflow through some area on the radiator. Hopefully the fan is sufficient enough for my needs. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk |
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07-31-2016, 08:36 PM | #6362 |
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There is no baffle system in the KA radiator. Their only radiators that are channeled are the N-Flo and they don't make those for KA. That is precisely why people are overheating with that setup. I was going to run it that way too because it looks cleaner, but I have since decided against that. You can make a crossover setup look clean too and get way better cooling.
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08-01-2016, 08:30 AM | #6363 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I will say I've installed my Koyo SR N-Flow and although I'm returning back to 180-190 quicker when in the pits, I'm still seeing hot temperatures coming off track and on the highway (220-230+). I've come to the conclusion that for my setup, I'm lacking airflow despite all the ducting, shrouded fans and dual pass radiator. I'm not convinced that the SR radiator is the end all be all solution but it is definitely an improvement.
I now believe that with my S13 sharknose bumper, my only air intake is through the FMIC unlike silvia front or S14's where they have a grill between the headlights that allows air to directly hit the radiator. For me, at higher speeds/while drifting not enough air is able to make it to the radiator. I'm currently going HMIC for a few reasons but fully expect to finally cure my overheating issues due to half the radiator will now be able to receive direct airflow. |
08-01-2016, 10:13 AM | #6364 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
You are absolutely correct, the Koyo is simply a piece to the puzzle. As are all the other pieces, no one piece will solve the heat issues on its own. What fan are you running as you mentioned the other pieces of the puzzle(rad, ducting and oil cooler). This weekend I drove my s14 with fmic -> SPAL pusher fan that is hooked to -> ac condenser -> Koyo -> Supra mechanical fan... From Oklahoma City to Houston TX (8 hours) in the middle of the day with ambient temps from 105-110 the whole trip with Ac on too obviously. Never saw over 194*F coolant temps. Ranging in driving conditions from 80-85mph cruising and over an hour in stop and go traffic in Dallas. No hiccups at all in the whole trip.
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08-03-2016, 07:11 PM | #6365 |
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Finally fixed my overheating issue!! I installed FAL 440 pusher fans today and my temps dropped from 215 to 170(gutted thermostat) when doing a 20 min hwy run. I had some 1600cfm Derale dual 12in fans before that apparently were the problem.
My setup is as follows on my s13 shark nose : koyo KA radiator, FAL 440s, custom belly pan made from sheet metal, NRG radiator cooling panels, gutted OEM thermostat, oem oil cooler, green nissan oem coolant (ran out of red yota after all this BS), and raised the rear of my hood about 3/4in. My process 1. Started off with a KA koyo rad, no cooling panels at all, mishi low temp stat and derale dual 12in fans with red yota coolant 30/70 mix. FAIL 225 TEMPS! 2.The theory was the KA koyo sucked, so i bought an SR20 koyo and nrg panels , crossover pipe and i swear it got hotter. 3. I made a belly pan that would route more air through the radiator/fmic no change. 4. I moved the fans from pusher to puller and put in the old oem thermostat i had just gutted- maybe got a little better. Also raised rear of hood with no change. 5.FINALLY today i reinstalled the KA radiator with a greddy cap, some new FAL 440s and didnt have any red coolant so i used green and Boom! My fans actually shut off cause coolant temps dropped to 164 lol. Im pumped!
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08-03-2016, 07:15 PM | #6366 | |
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Quote:
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk |
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08-03-2016, 07:19 PM | #6367 |
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With good fans at idle now i can feel hot air exiting all the way back at the quarters. I really didnt want to pay the $330 for known good FAL fans and figured a decent dual fan setup would suffice. Wrong! I kept saying surely its not the fans, wrong! So instead of spending countless hours and buying 2 koyos i could've just bought good fans, dont be like me, buy high dollar good fans lol.
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08-03-2016, 07:21 PM | #6368 | |
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Quote:
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08-03-2016, 09:44 PM | #6370 |
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I hot lapped a 100mph road course for 3-4 laps at a time straight, hottest I ever saw was 215, and by the time I got back to staging lane, it was 190, all day long. 90* outside.
Drove 80mph home on the highway afterwards, sat at 170 all the way home
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08-03-2016, 09:45 PM | #6371 |
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Yeah i got flex a lite 440 pusher fans that come in a shroud, i had to trim a little bit off the core support to make em fit but nothing structural.
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08-05-2016, 11:11 AM | #6372 |
Zilvia Junkie
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That might work right now but when it starts to get cooler you will need a thermostat back in the car because it will never get up to temp. If your overheating problems are gone you should have no problem going back to a non-gutted OEM thermostat
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08-16-2016, 02:08 PM | #6373 |
Zilvia Junkie
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some of the dudes in jersey are running this obnoxiously large radiators and expansion tank set ups. I grabbed on of these and making an attempt to cram it under my hood. ill give this a go and decide on an additional expansion tank later.
unfortunately most universal radiators at 19 inches tall which is a pain., if only it was 18 inches it would clear. its a 3 inch thick, triple pass radiator for some v8 or circle track kinda deal |
08-16-2016, 03:57 PM | #6374 |
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[QUOTE=Black240Ct;6102353]some of the dudes in jersey are running this obnoxiously large radiators and expansion tank set ups. I grabbed on of these and making an attempt to cram it under my hood. ill give this a go and decide on an additional expansion tank later.
unfortunately most universal radiators at 19 inches tall which is a pain., if only it was 18 inches it would clear. its a 3 inch thick, triple pass radiator for some v8 or circle track kinda deal You can custom spec a griffin radiator fairly simply. You look up templates to determine shape, size, end tank configuration etc. And you can have custom inlets outlets installed or select from popular inlet/outlets and just add the corresponding code to the end of the size/configuration part #. Super easy, really reasonable prices too. You can even price shop your end configuration part number with resellers and get better pricing. |
08-16-2016, 03:58 PM | #6375 | |
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Quote:
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08-16-2016, 07:21 PM | #6376 |
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Hey guys! If you're looking for a turbo for your 2j build, I'm selling my Borg Warner SXE 8376 with T4 Divided 1.0 A/R. Rated flow is 75lb/min.
Brand new in box. $800+shipping (keep in mind their listed price doesn't include turbine housing) http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...8376-62mm.html |
08-17-2016, 07:09 PM | #6377 |
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Just placed an order from a group buy going on @ cbf performance. This shifter is adjustable fore & aft as well as side to side so it fits many application. Orig price is $350. Group buy is $185.
My setup is a 2J ->CD009 with Collins adapter. Here's the link to his ig page: https://www.instagram.com/cbfperformance/ Link to group buy: http://www.cbfperformance.net/store#...egory=19722030 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk |
08-19-2016, 10:43 AM | #6379 |
Zilvia Member
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08-19-2016, 11:05 AM | #6380 |
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New EMS options now available for 2jz swaps:
Infinity 6 plug and play harnesses from AEM and Velocity Element are now available. Plug and play Infinity 6 2jz can now be had for under $1900 I've tuned a few infinity 6 JZ engines now i must say hands down the best ECU option unless your looking to spend 5K + IMO ***FULL pin out for stock ECU plug and Infinity plug are available on AEM's site for download, VERY helpful for a swap wiring!*** |
08-22-2016, 06:06 AM | #6383 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Not that I've seen posted in here. I recently heard about this swap through that Monky London guys youtube account. I think it's more popular in Europe since BMWs are abundant and easier to find the diesel bmw variant with the trans. Good luck if you go for it and post up!
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08-22-2016, 09:05 AM | #6385 |
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Yeah Collins does have the adapter. I have a new coworker who have a 2jz with the bmw gear box. I'll look up the spec of the trans to see the difference between other trans. For sure the 6 spd getrag will be just like the v160
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08-22-2016, 08:04 PM | #6386 |
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Love that BOV. I just got mine installed last week using a 10 PSI spring and it works great. It's barely cracked open @ idle and functions nicely. https://vimeo.com/179842750 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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08-23-2016, 07:19 PM | #6389 |
Zilvia Addict
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Been trying to find it all day dude it's driving me crazy. It's a white s14, somewhere in the UK. Maybe it was on driftworks?
Edit: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=539299 Last edited by corkscrew; 08-23-2016 at 08:40 PM.. |
08-24-2016, 09:29 PM | #6390 |
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Guys I need a little help!!
So I got my 2JZ running but I am having problems with the idle. These are plugged: Oem BOV line Rear of the intake (believe it's for oem brake booster) Nipple under the TB Then the nipple next to the oil dipstick goes to my Tial BOV and it opens a little then closes at idle (which I believe is the problem). Should I try shimming or putting in a stiffer spring? Because if the BOV line is plugged it runs much better, but the AFR will slower rise. |
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