s13 wire tuck+fuse & relay boxes re-location

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz

Dam this confuses me so much. I dont understand how your supposed to keep track of every wire. So.... if im doing a track build. where i wont need any of the smog equipment.. or AC, or anything that makes the car more confurtable.. can i take alot of the sensors off ?? im still trying ti figure this all out.

When I do track-car wiring, I don't think so much in terms of what can be removed, I think in terms of what I have to keep ~

*Engine harness (a tuck all by itself, you can remove approx 25% of the wiring from a KA - power steering, EGR?, A/C, etc)
*Lights - can't really trim anything here, except for maybe corner/marker lights
*Power windows/sunroof - need to keep this stuff most likely
*HVAC - I like to keep the blower motor and controls, if only for the defroster
*Gauges - If you want to keep the stock dash, you have to keep the huge cluster of wires running along the dash bar... if not (like my car), tear it out!
*Radio - running an aftermarket amp with new speaker wire, or not running a radio at all? Tear the old shit out! I will say, being the only car at the track with a nice/full sound system does have it's advantages...
*Fusebox - here's where you can trim some serious fat - run an aftermarket fusebox in the glovebox area, and you can ditch the engine bay fusebox, the kick panel fusebox, and the SMJ! That's the real meat of any wire tuck.

Where does that leave you? Well, if you do what I did and cut out the pieces of the stock harnesses you need, and throw everything else away, you end up with about 40lbs of harness per car. I've done 3 or 4 cars now, and have a few HUGE boxes full of OEM wire left over lol...

[Enna]

Man I'm seriously about to have you come out to vegas and do my S14 <3.

[roninwon]

hey man is there anyway you can post up diagrams of what u got and or did to help some of us out a little bit cause my car is in desperate need of a rewire

[BoostSlideWayz]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

When I do track-car wiring, I don't think so much in terms of what can be removed, I think in terms of what I have to keep ~

*Engine harness (a tuck all by itself, you can remove approx 25% of the wiring from a KA - power steering, EGR?, A/C, etc)
*Lights - can't really trim anything here, except for maybe corner/marker lights
*Power windows/sunroof - need to keep this stuff most likely
*HVAC - I like to keep the blower motor and controls, if only for the defroster
*Gauges - If you want to keep the stock dash, you have to keep the huge cluster of wires running along the dash bar... if not (like my car), tear it out!
*Radio - running an aftermarket amp with new speaker wire, or not running a radio at all? Tear the old shit out! I will say, being the only car at the track with a nice/full sound system does have it's advantages...
*Fusebox - here's where you can trim some serious fat - run an aftermarket fusebox in the glovebox area, and you can ditch the engine bay fusebox, the kick panel fusebox, and the SMJ! That's the real meat of any wire tuck.

Where does that leave you? Well, if you do what I did and cut out the pieces of the stock harnesses you need, and throw everything else away, you end up with about 40lbs of harness per car. I've done 3 or 4 cars now, and have a few HUGE boxes full of OEM wire left over lol...

Well lets see... I took out the AC, the radio, all the ac equipment. all the controls. so the center console is empty. and i dont have power windows, i used to have power belts but i took those out. basicly the only thing electronic inside my car is the guage cluster. I just wanna make every thing more accesable for the car when things break down and need repair. i dont wanna end up having to move lots of wires, and get confused. im not sure if i should take this to some one else to do.. or if i should try it my self. id like to try this myself and see how well it turns out.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Enna

Man I'm seriously about to have you come out to vegas and do my S14 <3.

Haha, wouldn't be the first time. You've got my number, I wouldn't charge for the drive time, since I love Vegas, and would bring all the tools and materials in the truck. Conservatively takes two days.

Originally Posted by roninwon

hey man is there anyway you can post up diagrams of what u got and or did to help some of us out a little bit cause my car is in desperate need of a rewire

The FSM is literally all you need. If you want a "hand holding" diagram, with "here son, connect this light blue/black striped wire with this black wire with red stripe right here" then you'd have to tell me exactly what system you're working on, on what car. If your car's anywhere close to stock (wiring-wise) the FSM should be all you need - it has diagrams, wire colors, pinouts, EVERYTHING!

Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz

Well lets see... I took out the AC, the radio, all the ac equipment. all the controls. so the center console is empty. and i dont have power windows, i used to have power belts but i took those out. basicly the only thing electronic inside my car is the guage cluster. I just wanna make every thing more accesable for the car when things break down and need repair. i dont wanna end up having to move lots of wires, and get confused. im not sure if i should take this to some one else to do.. or if i should try it my self. id like to try this myself and see how well it turns out.

You've still got taillights and fuel pump, so you've still got wiring running back from the dash. On Ernie's Vert (DTC Superstar) I did a 'standalone' race harness with a Bussman fuse block in the driver's side kick panel, and sleeved everything with Techflex flame-proof expandable sleeving and adhesive heat shrink - he still had a grip of wires running around the dash, but only a few running through the firewall (headlights) and back from the dash (convertible + tail lights + fuel pump).

If you really want it simple, take EVERYTHING out, take off the loom, and start with an aftermarket fuse block. I use a 6-circuit Bussman for Ignition-ON stuff and a 12-circuit Blue Sea for Accessory-ON, but you could definitely get away with just one or the other for a race car.

(click for link)

Then you use the FSM to pick out which connectors and wires you need (like, you'd still want the headlight, ignition, wiper and gauge cluster plugs, and most of the wires). You'd take those wires out, reconnect them per the FSM, and test one system at a time. If you're unfamiliar with the FSM and wiring diagrams in general, it'll take about a month - for me, takes 2 days to wire an entire car from scratch.

[Wake]

You just saved me so much trouble LOL

[Gorilla Unit 33]

Continued on my tuck yesterday, i pulled the dash to replace the harness with a new one and to start the tucking. Me and Andrew had a basic idea of what we wanted to do going into this tuck and so we started with the easy stuff. We tucked the harness where its most likely to ever be damaged, in the wheel well and as you can see we pulled the harness above the factory lip in the well and banged the lip up flat also. Test fitted the fenders, to make sure they were going to clear the harness and we were good to go onto the next step. Since we didnt get started until 6pm we were loosing daylight fast and decided to get the fuse boxes situated where we wanted to tuck them and call it a night. After marking the wires and cutting them we had the harness right where we wanted to start the extensions. Also in case you didn't notice we installed a new harness but that means we had another harness still lying around. We will be using the matching wires from the last harness to make the extensions that way if we ever do run into a problem we know that finding the wire will never be a problem . With that said i think the pictures can explain the rest.







Im not really worried about illiminating the oem fuse boxes, tucking is more of my objective. Also since i eliminated all the emission bs, i wont have to keep my carbon canister like you have to in cali. The rest of my harness we are going to extend and run under the top side of the rad reinforcement just like it does from the factory. Now that i re-read this thread going to an S14 dizzy and ecu sounds like it might be an option to eliminate the one extra object and wire in the engine bay but well see. It might be something i have to wait for because money is kinda low and i still need a clutch to get me back on the road.

Check my blog link in my sig for more info about my build.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ I love having extra harnesses around so that when you have to extend something, it gets extended with the exact same wire color/gauge. Keep it up, and make sure to be meticulous about solder joints and sleeving - it SUCKS to have to go back through your shit once you're finished and look for where you fucked up.

Just ask Om1kron.

[worangejuice]

keep the dash off so peoples can see all the amazing tucking and rewiring you did
mad talent there to tackle all of those wires

[bejota180sx]

im doing the exact same thing, ill post up pics shortly on my blog... ive removed so many useless wiring and i know i can remove more...

great job! also i know i havent read the whole thread cause im king of in a hurry but if your going for a tuck... why dont you remove the fender wires and tuck them inside the frame rail or something similar, they would be safer IMO... at least i have NO wires coming through the fender holes... everything comes from just one whole in the engine bay... like i said ill post pics to show my work... maybe it will give you a better idea than me or give me another idea than that ive been doing...

[Gorilla Unit 33]

^ the point is to have no wires in the bay and right now where the wires are there is no possible way they could be rubbed out so there safe where they are.

Im deffinately dropping the motor in and hooking everything up before i put the dash in and bolt the fenders on.

[hpipro4]

my 99% finished bay, interior...etc







relocated s14 ps fluid tank/ intake cut out


relocated charcoal canister


slim HID


coolant reserve

[xpertsnowcarver]

Dayam.. if rep still existed.. you'd get a green square from me. Though, you wouldn't know what I mean so... Props to you for following through.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver

Dayam.. if rep still existed.. you'd get a green square from me. Though, you wouldn't know what I mean so... Props to you for following through.

haha yea...dont know nothing about the rep thingy!!!lol

thanks tho

[GSXRJJordan]

Brown interior has to go. Everything else (except the KA) looks pretty damn good, well done. Lots of finish work, and it's paid off.

[Wake]

Man I miss the rep system, when properly used it was a great thing.

but that shit looks clean enough to east off!
I dunno if someone already asked but what have you done to the bay itself? did you fill and paint it? it looks mighty clean in those newest pics

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Brown interior has to go. Everything else (except the KA) looks pretty damn good, well done. Lots of finish work, and it's paid off.

im fine with brown interior! i like the color brown.. lol not b/c im brown i just like wearing brown.

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Man I miss the rep system, when properly used it was a great thing.

but that shit looks clean enough to east off!
I dunno if someone already asked but what have you done to the bay itself? did you fill and paint it? it looks mighty clean in those newest pics

yea pretty much! filled all the holes with bondo and use rattle cans primer no basecoat...

[Wake]

wait what kind of brown are you?

Im kinda feeling the brown, watch I guarantee in a year or two everyone is gonna be jocking brown and blue interior.

yeah im about to do a 5sp dohc swap and im thinking of doing a mild tuck and deleting/filling/painting some shit.
My engine bay is getting painted at least if nothing else.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

it SUCKS to have to go back through your shit once you're finished and look for where you fucked up.

Just ask Om1kron.

haha cocksucker...

just to be fair...
i had a short in my tps wiring which was fixed.
coil pack sub harness was mispinned.
and ecu power was not provided right by not crossing 1 wire into the equation.

bite me.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

haha yea...dont know nothing about the rep thingy!!!lol

thanks tho

where did you get your coolant reservoir from? pm me or leave a comment on my profile page.

[Tantwoforty]

its nice to see the same car i have looking sexy.
by same i mean color or inside and out

[Gorilla Unit 33]

i thought the coolant resi and the ps resi had to be higher then the radiator and the ps pump? maybe im wrong? Tuck looks good though! still waiting to finish mine.

[S14_Kouki]

Lookin great good work!!

[Wake]

hey gorilla unit where did you get your fender tubs?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Gorilla Unit 33

i thought the coolant resi and the ps resi had to be higher then the radiator and the ps pump? maybe im wrong? Tuck looks good though! still waiting to finish mine.

no, a swirl pot needs to be higher than the highest water level the coolant reserve does not need to be as it is insufficient in removing air pockets from the cooling system.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

wait what kind of brown are you?

Im kinda feeling the brown, watch I guarantee in a year or two everyone is gonna be jocking brown and blue interior.

yeah im about to do a 5sp dohc swap and im thinking of doing a mild tuck and deleting/filling/painting some shit.
My engine bay is getting painted at least if nothing else.

pinoy!! fillipino...

Originally Posted by Om1kron

where did you get your coolant reservoir from? pm me or leave a comment on my profile page.

sent u a pm

Originally Posted by Tantwoforty

its nice to see the same car i have looking sexy.
by same i mean color or inside and out

haha nice....

Originally Posted by Gorilla Unit 33

i thought the coolant resi and the ps resi had to be higher then the radiator and the ps pump? maybe im wrong? Tuck looks good though! still waiting to finish mine.

the ps tank is actually higher than the ps pump and the coolant tank is lower than radiator but seems to be working!

[Matej]

Does your power steering work alright? My reservoir is relocated to a similar spot, but I am worried it might act up because I know the pump is mostly gravity fed.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Matej

Does your power steering work alright? My reservoir is relocated to a similar spot, but I am worried it might act up because I know the pump is mostly gravity fed.

yea works good! my ps tank is actually lil higher than pump! also switch to royal purple max ez....it was making marbly noise but i was just lil low on the fluid...

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

haha cocksucker...

just to be fair...
i had a short in my tps wiring which was fixed.
coil pack sub harness was mispinned.
and ecu power was not provided right by not crossing 1 wire into the equation.

bite me.

Originally Posted by Gorilla Unit 33

i thought the coolant resi and the ps resi had to be higher then the radiator and the ps pump? maybe im wrong? Tuck looks good though! still waiting to finish mine.

Originally Posted by Matej

Does your power steering work alright? My reservoir is relocated to a similar spot, but I am worried it might act up because I know the pump is mostly gravity fed.

Coolant res can be wherever... it's only a catch tank for water that makes it past the radiator cap. The power steering reservoir is not gravity fed - when bled properly, you shouldn't have any problems with the inlet for the pump being at the same level or a little higher than the outlet of the reservoir... I ran my setup with a custom reservoir (-10an outlet and hose) and cooler for a year, and it would get noisy sometimes (meaning there's probably a little air in there) after high-rpm workouts, but always had pressure.

[Matej]

Very helpful information. Thank you.