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Old 11-13-2020, 08:08 PM   #61
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Love the progress man, both cars look damn good! Radium will be coming out with a press in T for the valvecover in December.
Thanks! Really need to roll them outside this weekend and hose them both down, the dust on both is insane

Ohh I wasn't aware that was something they were working on! I'll have to keep my eye on their IG page for when it drops.

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Could always tap the valve cover, not hard todo.

Either or this setup is lookn sweet
I could, but I don't really want to deal with trying to clean out the metal shavings from the baffle after. Going to rock some regular ass hose for now, once I build this extra bottom end I have for the car I'll for sure be going AN like I did on the Z32.
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Old 11-13-2020, 08:15 PM   #62
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Did a quick mockup of the new brake likes today, wanted to make sure I had holes where I needed holes before I start painting. Really love how these look compared to the ugly ass stock hardlines.




The last thing I wanted to take care of before I start painting was getting the harness out of the engine bay. Was such a pain in the ass to drag it through the fender without hacking it up. I'd really like to build a full chassis harness for the car, but I want to drive it before I dive into that.

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Old 11-16-2020, 07:56 PM   #63
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Finally time to paint! One of my compressors had some water in it which put a lot of little imperfections in the first coat, but the finish is more than acceptable for what this car will be used for. Can't wait to roll it out into the sun and really see it!





Took some time to clean up tonight and sanded down the letters on my valve cover, 10/10 love it




A friend of mine helped me out and opened up the center bore on the 18x10.5 Pana's, with them properly up against the rotor, the fitment is going to be titties! Need to get the faces cleaned up, fix some rash and get them back together.




I've got some time off work coming up, should be able to get the engine back in and start it this weekend!

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Old 11-18-2020, 10:21 AM   #64
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Did a quick mockup of the new brake likes today, wanted to make sure I had holes where I needed holes before I start painting. Really love how these look compared to the ugly ass stock hardlines.


Did the kit come with the hose clips to attach to the fire wall?

Also do you think that kit would be long enough to allow for a D21 master with the fittings on the other side of the master? That setup looks really neat.
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Old 11-18-2020, 12:54 PM   #65
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Did the kit come with the hose clips to attach to the fire wall?

Also do you think that kit would be long enough to allow for a D21 master with the fittings on the other side of the master? That setup looks really neat.
Yes they come with the clips and will work with your "rhd" brake master.
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:20 PM   #66
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"Spent most of the weekend cleaning up my work space, still have a lot to organize and throw out, but we made some good progress."
Don't throw anything out at least freebie it on craigslist. One man's junk is another man's treasure and all that...
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Old 11-19-2020, 08:37 AM   #67
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Just sat here and read this thing from start to finish. Car is lookin' great and I'm pumped to see the SR get in the bay and running! Appreciate the time and attention to detail you've put into this thing.
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Old 11-21-2020, 12:56 AM   #68
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"Spent most of the weekend cleaning up my work space, still have a lot to organize and throw out, but we made some good progress."
Don't throw anything out at least freebie it on craigslist. One man's junk is another man's treasure and all that...
Nothing of value will be tossed, I have plenty of bins to store the stuff I don't need, but is still worth holding onto!

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Just sat here and read this thing from start to finish. Car is lookin' great and I'm pumped to see the SR get in the bay and running! Appreciate the time and attention to detail you've put into this thing.
Thanks! Was suppose to be a simple engine swap, but I'm happy I took the time to do it right!
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Old 11-21-2020, 01:12 AM   #69
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The cams in the SR were looking a bit worse for wear, not sure what this means for the overall health of the engine, but I figured I'd swap them out with some DE cams I have been hoarding just for shits. Rockers were also pretty jacked so those came out and I threw a spare set in after re-bleeding the lifters. One of the cam bolt washers decided to take a vacation to the oil pan, but thankfully it made it all the way and was just chillin on the upper windage tray!







Swapped in the 740cc injectors, replaced the lower intake seals, fuel system was ready to rock. Also found a Subaru OEM hose that consists of 2 90* bends that could be cut and fits the intake PCV perfectly!





Finally got a chance to roll the car out into the sun, overall pretty happy with the paint for my first ever attempt. Some lessons were learned and its not prefect, but it'll do just fine for now.




Original crank damper was cracked and chipped to hell, wasn't going to leave it to fall apart. With a fresh OEM damper from the man Juan at Bardabe Performance the engine was ready to drop in!



Picked up a band saw, made a few cuts and bend the pickup a bit to get the intake mocked up, still needs some adjusting before it gets welded up, but having a full 3in intake should sound awesome and provide the best overall response.




And finally, with the help of some friends, the engine found its way into the bay. Super excited to finish up a bit of wiring and running some hoses so I can crank it over and see it it starts. This is still an engine that was found sitting and has questionable history, but lets hope for the best.



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Old 11-21-2020, 05:25 AM   #70
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Buy new oil squirter tubes. Those cames are running dry.
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Old 11-21-2020, 12:03 PM   #71
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Wowowowowow
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Old 11-21-2020, 11:18 PM   #72
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Buy new oil squirter tubes. Those cames are running dry.
Yeah thats not the issue, SR20's run with the wrong oil will do this pretty quick. Running a high zinc oil prevents valvetrain wear, previous owner of the engine obviously didn't know this.

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Wowowowowow
Wowowow it gets better! Made some changes to the engine harness, mainly pulled the chassis interface connectors inside the firewall and re-wrapped some bits of it. Transmission harness also got stripped down and re-routed through the old HVAC drain, fits well and cleans up the overall look.




Got all of the vacuum lines connected, double checked the mess of wiring inside the car and connected the battery. No sparks, no fires, good for a crank. Filled it up with some VR1 20w50, pulled the plugs and cranked it a few times to get some oil back into the system. Dropped the plugs back in, forgot the PTU was on the work bench from my re-routing shenanigans and tried to start it to no avail. Swapped a goofy ass FWD FRP onto it and then realized the real issue was the missing PTU, got it back in and the car started right up! Oil pressure is phenomenal, no weird noises (That I could hear) and it idled kinda okay even with all of the intercooler piping just sitting loosely in place.



With no exhaust it sounds like a dump truck, but it does seem happy overall. Will get the exhaust back on tomorrow and hopefully I can get a video of it running! Beyond excited to get everything together fully and hear drive this thing again, its been too damn long!
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:26 PM   #73
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Swap is mostly sorted, need to fix a small coolant leak and bleed the cooling system a bit more, but it runs and the engine sounds happy overall. Currently only has half an exhaust on it, I think the GKTech engine mounts I have are warped causing the downpipe to sit against the floor pan and the trans mount was a bitch and a half to bolt up.

Anyone have a budget friendly mount suggestion? I want Nismo mounts, but I really don't want to spend the money right now...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbd3Pj7ZnJU

Also took the turbo inlet over to a local fabricator and got it welded up, super excited to see how this HKS turbo does with a full 3in inlet.

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Old 11-23-2020, 08:09 PM   #74
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s14/s15 oil tubes have bigger holes for better lubrication as well.
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Old 11-29-2020, 08:33 PM   #75
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Once I got an exhaust on the car and started it I noticed a bit of tapping, decided to pull the valve cover and have a look. Cams had oil on them, but didn't look too happy overall, I pulled the oil tubes off and blasted a bit of brake clean down them, you guys were right, they were completely clogged. Grabbed another set I had and they checked out good, threw them in and the engine sounds a lot happier.




When I had the car on stands last I noticed the drivers side axle boot was split in half and made one hell of a mess. Ordered some J30 axles from Rock Auto, they seem solid overall, but only time will tell. Also swapped some shims around in the diff, when I picked up the 4.6 R&P, it didn't come with the shims labeled. It was whining a bit so I swapped the thin shims around and hopefully the issue will be solved.



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Old 11-30-2020, 08:14 AM   #76
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Once I got an exhaust on the car and started it I noticed a bit of tapping, decided to pull the valve cover and have a look. Cams had oil on them, but didn't look too happy overall, I pulled the oil tubes off and blasted a bit of brake clean down them, you guys were right, they were completely clogged. Grabbed another set I had and they checked out good, threw them in and the engine sounds

They sell them new still with larger openings. Those dam tubes cost me and engine!

Glad u got it resolved setups lookn sweet
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:26 PM   #77
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Little bit of progress with the car recently, really want to get it done ASAP to enjoy it while the weather isn't trying to kill us out here.

My rear brake line union decided to leak after the bay was painted and made a mess of the fresh paint on the frame rail. Pretty annoyed, but it was my fault for not tightening the fitting completely. Ended up pulling the intake back off and just rattle canning it black, looks like poop, but its drift car so MEH. Also tightened up/swapped all of the hose clamps while it was off since there was a phantom coolant leak I could never track down after the first start.




18in Panasports got torn down for a refresh too. The seal job on these was horrible, I have no idea how they held air. I actually thought the lips were different because when they were assembled one was slightly wider than the other, but it turned out there was just silicon packed between the barrel and lip. When I loosened the bolts some were tight, some were not so tight and once they were all out, I could just pull the lips from the barrels.








With having access to a welder I have been trying to tackle more little things I would have previously paid someone else to do. Its not very pretty, but now I've got a bung for my wideband!




Finally got started on the passenger quarter panel hacking, slightly changed my technique from the driver side to hopefully give a better result. Excited to MIG this side instead of using the awful hazard fart welder.




Car still sits on stands while I am wrapping everything up, but it may see the pavement by the end of this coming weekend!

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Old 12-24-2020, 10:03 AM   #78
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silicone on the bolts... man you gotta be kidding me. people are such hacks! sealing and re-building three piece wheels is so simple! Glad you're cleaning those up and doing them justice.
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Old 12-27-2020, 08:27 PM   #79
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silicone on the bolts... man you gotta be kidding me. people are such hacks! sealing and re-building three piece wheels is so simple! Glad you're cleaning those up and doing them justice.
More silicon = better, right

Spend today buttoning up bits and getting the car ready to see the pavement again. Cooling system is finally working properly, after I re-installed the intake manifold I had an air bubble trapped somewhere and I was seeing temps on the PFC jump to 90+c idling while the outlet temp sensor would hang out close to ambient. Finally got it to burp a big bubble out and after topping it up temps are hanging out at 86c idling on the PFC and outlet sensor. Got the coil pack cover mounted and am overall very happy how everything turned out.




Passenger side fender is wrapped up, was a much nicer process welding with the MIG instead of the flux core. Before you judge me, I did clean up the edge and seal the seam. While welding the front corner a spark found its way into the little bit of insulation left inside the quarter panel and I had a nice size fire inside the car. About shit myself, but got it out without issue. I need to get a new fire extinguisher to keep in the shop...





While I was recovering from the fire I installed the cowl and window trim I cleaned up. Feels nice to have it back on and not disgustingly dirty.




Finally got my hands on a catback, tried to order a Greddy RS-Race from Enjuku a month ago and they failed to notify me it was months out on backorder. Found an ISR 3in blast pipe setup locally and decided it was better than nothing. Car is dumb loud, louder than it was with half an exhaust which doesn't really make since to me. It also really needs a tune, with the different cams, Z32 maf and 740cc injectors the base PFC tune is not super happy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxA0fnq6AeI

Overall the car is looking less sad every time I have a change to work on it, going to try and set it on the ground tomorrow and maybe take it down the road to make sure everything is solid.

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Old 12-27-2020, 10:29 PM   #80
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While welding the front corner a spark found its way into the little bit of insulation left inside the quarter panel and I had a nice size fire inside the car. About shit myself
Been there LOL

Good progress! Can't wait to see it done.
Motivating me to get off my ass and work on my car.
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Old 01-03-2021, 04:55 PM   #81
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Happy new year everyone! Finished up some other little stuff today and took the car for the first drive since swapping the DET into it. Car sounds insane, I've heard SR's without BOV's before, but with the 3in intake the surge is way louder than I have ever heard, once its tuned its going to sound absurd. Mismatched wheels since the 18in Pana's are still in bits and the 17's have too much tire to clear the front at lock.





Noticed some grinding noise as I pulled out, but decided I didn't care. When I got back I investigated and found the front outer tie rod is hitting the passenger side wheel barrel. Looks like its only hitting in one spot, guessing the wheel may have a slight bend in it because this was never an issue with the 8in pair I used to run. Don't mind the spider webs, most of the spiders are friendly




Car also stalled a few times on my little drive and I noticed the alternator wasn't charging. Really wasn't sure what could be wrong, did some forum digging and found the "Meter" fuse was pretty important and found mine blown. My dumbass left the cluster laying on the exposed dash bar, back shorted on the bar and was popping the fuse. Got that sorted and we were back in business.




Pretty excited that nothing blew up or leaked, once I get the wheel issue worked out I should be able to get the car to a tuner and actually enjoy it! Finished the day up by cleaning up the absolute disaster I made while working on the car, feels good to have everything tidy again.

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Old 01-03-2021, 05:20 PM   #82
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That?s one reason I stopped using those outers that correct bumpsteer especially on anything that?s like 17? with a sort of stepped inner barrel . I had the same issue with the gktech ones and had to cut the extra threads down flush with the nut. Oem style outer works well in that sorta scenario for me.
Anyhow, car looks very good and is coming along really well. I need to get out I. The garage but the snow makes me not want to go out lol.
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Old 01-03-2021, 05:35 PM   #83
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That?s one reason I stopped using those outers that correct bumpsteer especially on anything that?s like 17? with a sort of stepped inner barrel . I had the same issue with the gktech ones and had to cut the extra threads down flush with the nut. Oem style outer works well in that sorta scenario for me.
Anyhow, car looks very good and is coming along really well. I need to get out I. The garage but the snow makes me not want to go out lol.
I think I am going to swap back to OEM style too, pretty sure I have a pair from my Z32 kicking around that I can toss on. The boots are already torn on these GKTech ones anyway, such "high quality" parts

Really appreciate the kind words, its finally coming together the way I've wanted it after all this time. I feel you on finding motivation, but with the heat instead of the cold. It was a brisk 65*F today out here, but when its 110*+ I have a hard time forcing myself to touch my cars.
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:42 PM   #84
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Car is officially ready for a tune, been sick and busy so I haven't touched it in a bit. After the first test drive I had a feeling that there was a pretty significant boost leak due to the idle not catching and the car stalling. Pulled out my trusty PVC cap/valve stem and pressurized the whole system. Found #4 injector was leaking pressure, I installed new seals when I put the rail back in, no idea why it was leaking. I applied pressure to the whole rail, bolted it back down and all is good. Car idles significantly better and doesn't try to stall on me anymore.

Took the car for another little drive and noticed the AFR's were dumb fat, 13.2 idle and 12.2 low rpm cruising. Seemed to be getting a bit warmer now, sitting around 89c on the PFC readout, but I can only assume that is from the fucky PFC base map. Hopefully I can get the car to a tuner this week!




Shitty ISR catback wasn't going to fit with a kit on the car so I chopped up the old axle back I had on the car and made it fit. Not the finest craftsmanship, but for now it gets the job done and I won't be burning the car to the ground melting fiberglass.







Finally addressed the Fineline front fenders today, these shits had some massive inner lips that needed trimming and the vents were rough. Covered myself in fiberglass getting them trimmed and cleaned up.





Panasports are all torn down finally as well, ready for a full refresh. The 17's are getting some parts swapped to make a proper front pair, seemed like and easy project until I started pulling them apart. I paid someone to clean these up a few years ago, what a mistake... Again silicone between faces and lips/barrels. Bolts were not torqued evenly, some were stupid tight, others were finger tight. Of the super tight bolts, one was cross threaded and tore apart the captured nut in the face. Faces were painted fully instead of leaving the mating surfaces raw which made it so the faces had to be hammered from the barrels. Overall quite the shit show, never trusting anyone with wheels again. Ordering all new hardware for these before I re-assemble and chasing all of the threads with a tap to clean out and silicone/shit stuck in them.







Hopefully the tune goes well and I can work toward getting the car all one color with a new kit that actually fits properly...


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Old 02-01-2021, 06:46 AM   #85
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Good progress man, bummer about that wheel bolt!
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:43 PM   #86
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voggards for sale ?
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Old 02-10-2021, 07:03 PM   #87
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Car got hauled to the dyno today. Ghetto rigged a coolant overflow in for the dyno session, brackets will be made once it gets back to its resting place.





Car got onto the dyno and found that timing was out mechanically, ended up having the exhaust cam retarded a tooth. We got that fixed, timing was perfect and started dialing it in. Few pulls later it made 230/203 at 8psi, but on the last pull it made a loud tapping as it fell back to idle. Noise went away at idle, but came right back with a little throttle input. Called it a day, will have to investigate more tomorrow once I get it back home.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzxEI_B5hVo
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Old 02-10-2021, 10:36 PM   #88
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Looks like a clean build. Why did you install two different types of wheels?
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Old 02-12-2021, 10:14 AM   #89
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For a dyno session while the car is still undergoing prep, does it matter??

lol!

Great build dude. Keep it up!
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Old 02-12-2021, 06:18 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Mcknz View Post
Looks like a clean build. Why did you install two different types of wheels?
The wheels for this car are in a million pieces waiting for paint/polish/new hardware, just running what I have around with tires for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
For a dyno session while the car is still undergoing prep, does it matter??

lol!

Great build dude. Keep it up!
Honestly I kinda expected failure when it went to the dyno. I'm just happy I have a useable map I can run once the engine is sorted.

I didn't had the printout from the dyno the other day, but here it is. Not sure what to make of it tbh. Still have no idea what turbo is on the car, CHRA part number doesn't match anything I can find online. Wish the boost graph was on there, but it made 8psi pretty early and held strong to redline without any creep. I think this turbo and the DE cams will be very nice once its in the 14-18psi range.



If you find an engine abandoned in a storage container with oil filter on it, its probably not the deal you were looking for. The cam wear I found when I pulled the valve cover off originally didn't inspire confidence with this long block, but I decided to take the risk and dress/drop the engine in. With fresh VR1 and good oil pressure it sounded very happy, I was pretty confident that the bottom end was in okay condition. Well lets say I should have taken the time to dig a bit deeper because shes done for. Dropped the oil and its painfully obvious there is bearing failure. Going to need a full tear down, clean out and rebuild.



I was happy to see the drain plug didn't pickup much magnetic material, hopefully this means the crank is going to be okay.



Now I am at the cross road of building this bottom end and I'm really having a hard time figuring out how I want to do it. I know my thread title says "Keep it simple", but I have a hard time doing that when I have a choice.

- Easy and cheap way is OEM+ type rebuild, clean it all up, fresh OEM main/rod bolts, OEM bearings, OEM pump and re-use rod/pistons. Car made great vacuum, decent power at 8psi and had no blow-by or oil consumption so running the original pistons and rings shouldn't be an issue. This does severely limit power potential though, our piss 91 pump gas is going to stop me around 300whp and still probably be pushing the limits of what the stock pistons can handle.

- Forged internals brings a lot of extra cost and labor to the assembly, but will give me the room to make more power and be able to use it as I grow with the car. Really leaning toward building it simply because I don't want to put the work into a stock rebuild just to end up limited if I want more.

Opinions? Thoughts?
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