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Old 08-04-2010, 11:34 PM   #1501
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Just did a diy paint job in my garage. Didnt turn out bad for a first timer. need to wetsand n buff but overall happy.

still need to paint kit, oh well.

Millenium Jade JW0, rich gold HOK dry flake

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Old 08-05-2010, 05:42 AM   #1502
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nice color, bet it looks even better in person
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:46 AM   #1503
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Originally Posted by Lite it up View Post
Just did a diy paint job in my garage. Didnt turn out bad for a first timer. need to wetsand n buff but overall happy.

still need to paint kit, oh well.

Millenium Jade JW0, rich gold HOK dry flake

thats what im talking about , good shit man! did u get alot of ash and trash in the paint?
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:31 PM   #1504
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Didn't have too much for stuff getting in the paint. Had a bug land in it though. Dumb. I set up a booth though
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:40 PM   #1505
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Cant argue with the man on that point! In the past i have used some local booths to spray and i was not satisfied with my own work. Booths need maintenance and proper cleaning and if that is not happening then u will jack your shit up. In my case it was just alot more cutting and buffing that wouldnt of been necessary. Anyway thats why i just do it in my garage. I have also seen alot of crappy jobs even after buffing. Thats like an art in itself. Bottom line bro i didnt mean to blast or anything but i wanted to give the new guy some options so at the end of the day he is happy with the outcome and not creating more work for him. Im all about working smarter not harder. By the way nice pics of the rx.

I absolutely understand where you are coming from, I won't even push a car into a booth unless I have my cleaning time in the booth itself, regardless of whether i'm the only person using it or not



If any of you guys go to a local booth, the number one thing you want to do is rinse the entire inside of it (roof, walls, floor, doors) and after that when you are spraying, you want the booth floor to be wet as well as the exterior filters, and outside of the booth doors. This helps catch trash and dust before it enters the booth and gets in your paint.



There is no guarantee you WONT get shit in your paint or have runs, randomly I will get a couple specs or if I am not paying attention fish eyes (pain in the dick) and on a very rare occasion you will get runs.....once you figure out how to work the runs as they are running though you will be fine.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:24 PM   #1506
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dodge intense blue pearl
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:41 PM   #1507
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dodge intense blue pearl
jesus christ huge pic. never seen your car around town. north burbs? west burbs? south?
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:11 PM   #1508
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schaumburg/elgin area.. thats not my i just painted it, my car is purple ..
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:19 AM   #1509
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singlestage pink


black coupe in the second pic is now this color


2010 ford mustang blue
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:42 PM   #1510
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schaumburg/elgin area.. thats not my i just painted it, my car is purple ..
ah ok, yeah im north of chicago. haha im getting mine purple too, i think. its really common though :\
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Old 08-12-2010, 08:48 AM   #1511
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So a couple of friends and I wen't ahead and painted the car outside. It turned out super sick, I'm really happy with the results.
I don't have any good pics of it in the sun yet, but here are a couple for now. The color is dark metallic purple.


This is right after wetsanding.


We still have to clear the door jambs and polish everything. Should be sweet.

Last edited by Gription; 08-13-2010 at 07:26 AM..
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:44 AM   #1512
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Steel Gray From Mercedes.

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Old 08-13-2010, 12:16 AM   #1513
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Ugh.. My eyes are dilated from looking through so many pages. Anyone know the name or color code of this color?



I've seen a couple that were close, but not quite.

I looked up the R34 OEM colors and I didn't really find a match.

I see people asking if this is "Athlete Silver"

Edit: Found my answer. Apparently it is an OEM color called Sparkling Silver code WV2

Athlete Silver is color code KV2

Source: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...DYbSsAO8kJWkDQ
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:05 PM   #1514
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get the thunder cloud silver from toyota instead lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:13 AM   #1515
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It's after 2am, my brain is tired and I can't remember the name of the paint color.



A closer look at the metal flake:



It's absolutely brilliant in the sunlight. But looks like plain black at night.
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:25 AM   #1516
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My last two cars that I've painted:

1990 RX7 painted 2008 Ford "Valencia" Code U3




1990 Civic painted 2009 Toyota "Voodoo Blue" Code 2Jv

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Old 08-15-2010, 01:07 PM   #1517
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Quote:
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It's after 2am, my brain is tired and I can't remember the name of the paint color.



A closer look at the metal flake:



It's absolutely brilliant in the sunlight. But looks like plain black at night.
more pics pleas.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:41 PM   #1518
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Here's mine, I'll have to check with the paint shop on the exact colors, but all the paint came from Germany. Color scheme consists of a blue, orange, black, and silver





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Old 08-21-2010, 01:36 PM   #1519
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:02 PM   #1520
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:36 AM   #1521
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Okay guys, so I finished painting my car and getting ready to polish it, but I'm having some problems now and I have lots of questions for you paint shop gurus out there. We used enamel for the base.

So it was like 12 days ago that we cleared the car. Looked all glossy and wet and orange peeley .. sweet.
Waited a few days and the wet sanded it smooth. Looked dull and whatnot like it should. sweet.
Put some water on it just to see what it would look like after polishing and buffing and all that other stuff that I know nothing about. Looked super shiny, wet, popped hard and felt like it did after clear coating but smoother.

Sweet.

I would put some water on a few spots of the car every day just to see what it would look like after polishing just to keep me happy. Still looked sick and felt smooth and good.
THEN.. yesterday I go out there and put some water on it and it would just dissipate instantly. Didn't stay on there, didn't look wet, glossy, and felt super dry and fag status like. I didn't think anything of it.

We cleared the trunk again ago just because it needed it. So it's looking all flashy and good and orange peeley like it should. I didn't wet sand this panel. cool.

Following good so far? Okay cool.

So today my buddy who works at a detail shop came over with his buffer and some compounds and all and went to work on a couple spots just to test it out. Shit looked nothing like it did when I put water on it the first few days after wet sanding. I mean, it looked shinier, but it's hazy and feels rough. Looks and feels nowhere near as good as the trunk does (which is just freshly cleared, no wetsanding). So now I'm all wtf.

He had some turtle wax compounds that he said work good. I know it's not the buffing job at fault here though, because the whole water on wet sanded paint thing seemed to be the issue.

Does anyone know whats going on with this? I don't understand how it can be fine one day and then 2 days later look like a cereal box full of dick. I'm thinking of
A. Wet sanding a test spot and buffing that to see if it just needs to be freshly wet sanded again.

B. Clearing the car again.

Help!
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:28 AM   #1522
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color code APF02
Angry Panda Fabrication special sauce
i know this is a custom color, but anyone know that color resembles this? maybe a scion or audi color? thanks
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:03 PM   #1523
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Pretty sure that it is Euro color (VW,Audi)
.02?
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:31 PM   #1524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gription View Post
Okay guys, so I finished painting my car and getting ready to polish it, but I'm having some problems now and I have lots of questions for you paint shop gurus out there. We used enamel for the base.

So it was like 12 days ago that we cleared the car. Looked all glossy and wet and orange peeley .. sweet.
Waited a few days and the wet sanded it smooth. Looked dull and whatnot like it should. sweet.
Put some water on it just to see what it would look like after polishing and buffing and all that other stuff that I know nothing about. Looked super shiny, wet, popped hard and felt like it did after clear coating but smoother.

Sweet.

I would put some water on a few spots of the car every day just to see what it would look like after polishing just to keep me happy. Still looked sick and felt smooth and good.
THEN.. yesterday I go out there and put some water on it and it would just dissipate instantly. Didn't stay on there, didn't look wet, glossy, and felt super dry and fag status like. I didn't think anything of it.

We cleared the trunk again ago just because it needed it. So it's looking all flashy and good and orange peeley like it should. I didn't wet sand this panel. cool.

Following good so far? Okay cool.

So today my buddy who works at a detail shop came over with his buffer and some compounds and all and went to work on a couple spots just to test it out. Shit looked nothing like it did when I put water on it the first few days after wet sanding. I mean, it looked shinier, but it's hazy and feels rough. Looks and feels nowhere near as good as the trunk does (which is just freshly cleared, no wetsanding). So now I'm all wtf.

He had some turtle wax compounds that he said work good. I know it's not the buffing job at fault here though, because the whole water on wet sanded paint thing seemed to be the issue.

Does anyone know whats going on with this? I don't understand how it can be fine one day and then 2 days later look like a cereal box full of dick. I'm thinking of
A. Wet sanding a test spot and buffing that to see if it just needs to be freshly wet sanded again.

B. Clearing the car again.

Help!

Use a polishing compound by 3M or Meguiars with a cut level of 3 or less.

What brand of paint and clear did you use?

Turtle wax fucking sucks FYI
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:16 PM   #1525
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Yeah a friend of mine who works at a paint shop took a look at it last night and said pretty much the same thing. He said to get a wool pad, extra cut compound and some swirl remover.
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:01 PM   #1526
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anyone seen or thought about doing it in maziora from the tamon s2000?



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Old 08-27-2010, 04:11 PM   #1527
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Not all the way back together (rivet gun broke) but you get it







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Old 08-29-2010, 02:56 AM   #1528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunami02 View Post

anybody know this color?
Any info on this color?




Any info on this color?

[QUOTE=WakeBHR;3062236]This is my next color if i can find it in one stage.

if anyone knows of something OEM that is similar let me know...
I also found a nissan color I liked the idea of, but you cant tell at all what it looks like over the net, anyone know of cars this color?
its a 98 nissan color and i dont see it anywhere on the 240 color chart, does anyone what it came on?
its that AS0 (black cherry)

these are also some other colors I liked.
I think these would be nuts on a s13 coupe.




Where can I get this paint, that aztec on black is to die for.
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:20 PM   #1529
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Where can I get this paint, that aztec on black is to die for.
Im not sure where my post ends and your begins but all those little car shapes are directly off the HOK website
http://www.houseofkolor.com/speedsha..._urethanes.jsp
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:19 AM   #1530
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That fc will look boss with the overs on!

I have more questions for you guys. I buffed the car with some medium grit meguiars compound.. this stuff right here:


It seemed to be working pretty good, but I know I can make it a lot shinier I'm just not sure how. I buffed the whole car 3 times and then polished it with some meguiars scratch and swirl remover. Now the roof I spent a lot of time on.. probably buffed it 5 or 6 times and polished it at least twice and it looks really good.
Do I really have to spend this much time on each panel to get it to where it should be or am I not using a hard enough compound?
I just want it to look how it did after it was cleared.
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