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Old 12-07-2011, 12:09 PM   #8791
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How much paint should i buy to spray

a front bumper
Hatch lid
Sideskirts
rear Valences
lip
and wing

all type x stuff

a pint, or a quart? probs a quart but just making sure.
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Old 12-07-2011, 01:01 PM   #8792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Amazing how you missed the (Search First!) part of the thread but picked up on the rules. Shucks.

Ok so I'll answer it for you

GOOGLE IT.



Check some of the engine importers in North Jersey, they usually have stuff. JDM Engine depot etc etc. Also check 240sx Motoring out of CT



Are your current bushings shot? As trutfhully unless they are shot/ripped/torn it's not a worthwhile change IMO. They are the same though.
Touche. I always forget Google, my bad :/
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:41 PM   #8793
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I have an s13. I received some s14 inner tie rods, they're beefy. I think I'm gonna buy some spherical ends, probably the touge factory ones, but will s14 inners be too long (that's what she said)? I also have s14 FLCAs, so I'm hoping the 10mm or whatever it adds will lengthen it enough.

so basically:

s13 with s14 flca, s14 inner tie rods, aftermarket outers. yes or no?
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:07 PM   #8794
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I wouldn't worry much about that. Just keep an eye on oil consumption if any and keep in the hammer. Remember these are old ass turbos on old as engines...stuf fleaks/pushes past/gets used.
great, thanks ace. any tips on how not to snap studs when removing the exhaust manifold? gonna soak it in pb blaster for the next week but i do NOT wanna have to back out broken studs lol
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:13 PM   #8795
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okay having a weird problem with my SR breaking up over 5k but only when the car is warmed up and hott.. when cold the car run's like a beast... it used to break up all the time to get to where i am now have bkr7e gapped to .028. and changed my MAF out and have changed my coils packs out those dont seem to be the problem..

T28 sr20 blacktop with tune running 13psi boost on stock 370cc injectors....

boost leak?
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:01 PM   #8796
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Would a falken rt615k be to much in the rear for a 325 hp sr20det. 18x10.5 235/4018 tire?
Wanting to run this tire for drifing because of sticky and smoke. Just wanitng to make sure its not too sticky when drifting.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:29 PM   #8797
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I purchased myself a welder to weld in a small section of my frame rail to weld in a new subframe bolt (long story). I'm wondering if the weld is supposed to go all the way thru the metal or not. I've been practicing on 1/8" steel and cannot get the bead to go all the way thru. It's a cheapo 90 amp. Also, is there any difference between a stringer bead or like a weave? I'm a lot better with a stringer, and the weld is a lot cleaner is why I ask vs me doing a weave pattern.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #8798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Luckinator View Post
I have an s13. I received some s14 inner tie rods, they're beefy. I think I'm gonna buy some spherical ends, probably the touge factory ones, but will s14 inners be too long (that's what she said)? I also have s14 FLCAs, so I'm hoping the 10mm or whatever it adds will lengthen it enough.

so basically:

s13 with s14 flca, s14 inner tie rods, aftermarket outers. yes or no?
You'll be fine, because you can thread on the outer a little more of need be. And I'm not sure, but I think they're the same length as S13 inners, just thicker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustxking View Post
Would a falken rt615k be to much in the rear for a 325 hp sr20det. 18x10.5 235/4018 tire?
Wanting to run this tire for drifing because of sticky and smoke. Just wanitng to make sure its not too sticky when drifting.
You should be fine. I can spin 235/40/17 with a stock KA. Granted they aren't RT615's, but with more than double my HP you'll be alright.
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:01 PM   #8799
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Originally Posted by ZX88 View Post
How much paint should i buy to spray

a front bumper
Hatch lid
Sideskirts
rear Valences
lip
and wing

all type x stuff

a pint, or a quart? probs a quart but just making sure.
id get a quart just to be safe i like to have a little extra for touch up if need be maybe even a gallon
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:03 PM   #8800
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s13 inners are the same length as z32 (z33 i believe), s13 inners are m12 as where everything else is m14.

and s14 inners are the longest out of all of them.



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Old 12-07-2011, 08:14 PM   #8801
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Well regardless, if you can't thread the outer on far enough to make it shorter, just cut the thread of the inner a little. People run S14 inners on S13s all the time.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:52 PM   #8802
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thanks for the answer/info ace. and yea I agree, you make a good point about not needing to replace them if they aren't blown. well I've made up my mind, I'll change 'em out whenever they do go bad but not now.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:07 PM   #8803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
I purchased myself a welder to weld in a small section of my frame rail to weld in a new subframe bolt (long story). I'm wondering if the weld is supposed to go all the way thru the metal or not. I've been practicing on 1/8" steel and cannot get the bead to go all the way thru. It's a cheapo 90 amp. Also, is there any difference between a stringer bead or like a weave? I'm a lot better with a stringer, and the weld is a lot cleaner is why I ask vs me doing a weave pattern.
90amp is not hot enough to produce a strong enough weld that it will penetrate. Also, the weld doesn't actually show up on the other side, it will however leave a trail and should get both sides hot.

If worried, use a torch and heat up the metal before welding, it will help the weld penetrate better

Quote:
Originally Posted by towlie View Post
great, thanks ace. any tips on how not to snap studs when removing the exhaust manifold? gonna soak it in pb blaster for the next week but i do NOT wanna have to back out broken studs lol
do it when the engine is cold
take your time

it usually doesn't snap, for me at least, and i've taken my manifold off about 4 times already. Stock engine, 91 status, didn't break anything the first time.

When you put em back, antiseize if you want
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:33 AM   #8804
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another dumb question, but did japan have their own set of color codes for the S14? did they have a silver color that wasn't available to the US/anywhere else ?

reason i ask is because ive searched and cant find anything, except this

File:S14.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

its silver for sure, ive been looking through too many silver moss koukis to mistake the two so am i just imagining this color, or is there a JDM silver?
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Old 12-08-2011, 05:56 AM   #8805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
90amp is not hot enough to produce a strong enough weld that it will penetrate. Also, the weld doesn't actually show up on the other side, it will however leave a trail and should get both sides hot.

If worried, use a torch and heat up the metal before welding, it will help the weld penetrate better
Thanks for the reply. It says it can weld up to that thick, it may just be that I'm inexperienced that its not penetrating. I'm going to try cutting more of a V to see if that helps at all. If i can even get it good enough to hold to where I can put my car back together and take it somewhere to be welded again, that might be an option as well.
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Old 12-08-2011, 03:34 PM   #8806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towlie View Post
great, thanks ace. any tips on how not to snap studs when removing the exhaust manifold? gonna soak it in pb blaster for the next week but i do NOT wanna have to back out broken studs lol
I personally like to spray them with PBlaster the day before. Drive it around, get it warm. Then after driving, spray them again while it's warm as it will help suck the PBlaster into the rust and penetrate more.

Then the day of, spray them again, get it warm (not totally hot, just warm it up until the manifold is almost too hot to touch. Then quickly break all of the nuts loose while it's warm. If you can, keep going, but if not you at least have the initial bond broke. I've always had good luck with them being warm as it helps expand the threads a little, making it easier to remove. The PBlaster helps too as it penetrates/eats rust to a degree.

Doing it cold can work, but I've broken way to many studs when I was younger on 5.0's to risk it on anything again, especially one with aluminum heads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Luckinator View Post
s13 inners are the same length as z32 (z33 i believe), s13 inners are m12 as where everything else is m14.
Z32/s13/s14 are all different lengths, I just can't rmember if z32 or S13 is shortest.
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Old 12-08-2011, 03:40 PM   #8807
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Hey Guys,
New guy here, maybe a stupid question, but wth...
What is a decent price for the S13 Silvia front end Including:
Fenders,
Hood,
Headlights/sidelights,
grill,
and brackets.

Straight but paint condition doesnt matter to me.

I've heard anywhere from 800-1200.

Also, PM me if you have one for sale.
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:44 PM   #8808
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Does anyone know if like a s13 coupe cusco bolt in cage works in verts?
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:53 PM   #8809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
do it when the engine is cold
take your time

it usually doesn't snap, for me at least, and i've taken my manifold off about 4 times already. Stock engine, 91 status, didn't break anything the first time.

When you put em back, antiseize if you want
Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I personally like to spray them with PBlaster the day before. Drive it around, get it warm. Then after driving, spray them again while it's warm as it will help suck the PBlaster into the rust and penetrate more.

Then the day of, spray them again, get it warm (not totally hot, just warm it up until the manifold is almost too hot to touch. Then quickly break all of the nuts loose while it's warm. If you can, keep going, but if not you at least have the initial bond broke. I've always had good luck with them being warm as it helps expand the threads a little, making it easier to remove. The PBlaster helps too as it penetrates/eats rust to a degree.

Doing it cold can work, but I've broken way to many studs when I was younger on 5.0's to risk it on anything again, especially one with aluminum heads.
thanks for the tips fellas

looks like i got my weekend project cut out for me
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:12 PM   #8810
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do they make nardi deep corn sport rally wheels in 330mm or just 350mm?
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:45 PM   #8811
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Ok..Please tell me which way is correct on the S14 Pump/Hanger/Sock angle.
I've never done one on this chassis and the Hanger Was cut by prev owner and Incorrect Sock Broke off inside the tank. Didn't pay attention when removing it due to the Sock Missing
This (#1):


or #2:


Silicone Radiator Hose Surrounding It - Will that work?
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:51 PM   #8812
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i have searched for the answer and found several clues but cant figure it out.

SOHC KA24E in a 93 hatch.

intake manifold gasket went bad so replacing the gasket i deleted all emissions.
now i have ...
-no idle
-high idle (if any, 2k)
-sputtering
-no power
-very rich
-very hard to start when cold

I added a ground wire from the intake to the chassis.


My idea is IACV, due to the minor idle issues before the emissions removal. But the FSM says the air regulator could be faulty for the cold start issue. Also i have unplugged the top coolant temp sensor and it runs SO MUCH BETTER.

Anyone have had this problem before, at all?
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:05 PM   #8813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Then the day of, spray them again, get it warm (not totally hot, just warm it up until the manifold is almost too hot to touch.

Doing it cold can work, but I've broken way to many studs when I was younger on 5.0's to risk it on anything again, especially one with aluminum heads.
Don't set your car on fire if using PB, im pretty sure its flammable and I tried it once and it smoked like hell, got paranoid and stopped.

It may be that I got lucky, like i said, mine never gave me a problem and it's the same old engine so I don't have much experience with them. They do sometimes twist the stud out of the head and not the nut off the stud lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
Thanks for the reply. It says it can weld up to that thick, it may just be that I'm inexperienced that its not penetrating. I'm going to try cutting more of a V to see if that helps at all. If i can even get it good enough to hold to where I can put my car back together and take it somewhere to be welded again, that might be an option as well.
Meh, skill pretty much determines strength of weld as well as appearance and not so much heat. Weld slower and you might be able to get it hotter, however I still recommend getting a better welder. Even if rented.

When you weld, go in a loop-de-loop. Cross over your previous loop about 25%, so it doesn't get fat and blobby.

Make sure everything is clean too, you might forget that. Grind it down bare, no contaminants. If there are wierd brown colored bubbles in the weld then its contaminated metal
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:28 PM   #8814
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Think about going s15 sr, but of course I'd have to go with the s15 diff and d/s to get my speedo working.

Question:

I've heard of people needing nismo ring gear bolts to go from s13 diff to s15 helical with s13 ring gear. What do I need to keep my s13 tomei 2way in the s15 diff?
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:30 PM   #8815
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Ok..Please tell me which way is correct on the S14 Pump/Hanger/Sock angle.
I've never done one on this chassis and the Hanger Was cut by prev owner and Incorrect Sock Broke off inside the tank. Didn't pay attention when removing it due to the Sock Missing
Silicone Radiator Hose Surrounding It - Will that work?
I can't remember, but IIRC it only goes in the tank one way...so you should know as soon as it doesn't fit.

As far as the sillicone rubber part on the backside, it should be ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
Don't set your car on fire if using PB, im pretty sure its flammable and I tried it once and it smoked like hell, got paranoid and stopped.
It is flamable if exposed to open flame, but a warm manifold will only cause it to smoke/smell funky. At my shop we do this all of the time (spray PB, drive, spray again, drive, spray again) and it works...especially handy on Ford Mod motors and doing manifolds.

[QUOTE=chiboy002;4396637]
They do sometimes twist the stud out of the head and not the nut off the stud lol.[/qute]

Haha, yea that does happen...thankfully not a major deal
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:56 PM   #8816
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When i turn on my ac its makes a constant loud clicking noise. ONLY when i set it to blow at my feet and face it doesn't make the noise. If i install a new climate control will it fix it? or do i just need a recharge?
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:33 AM   #8817
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What kind of "clicking" plastic sound? Metal sound? Constant? Sporadic? Does it do it when engine is off? ...etc
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:09 PM   #8818
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Would 30mm z32 brakes fit inside a set of 16x10 +0 Diamond racing wheels? Kind of doubtful but if that fits would it have enough room for z32s with 350z track rotors?
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:56 PM   #8819
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Originally Posted by JasianBlazin View Post
When i turn on my ac its makes a constant loud clicking noise. ONLY when i set it to blow at my feet and face it doesn't make the noise. If i install a new climate control will it fix it? or do i just need a recharge?
Is it clicking from the compressor, or in the dash itself?



Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaperBJJ View Post
Would 30mm z32 brakes fit inside a set of 16x10 +0 Diamond racing wheels? Kind of doubtful but if that fits would it have enough room for z32s with 350z track rotors?
350z track rotors are 13" around, so I would say no they won't fit.
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:33 PM   #8820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaperBJJ View Post
Would 30mm z32 brakes fit inside a set of 16x10 +0 Diamond racing wheels? Kind of doubtful but if that fits would it have enough room for z32s with 350z track rotors?
what codyace said

plus if they did fit, with minimal clearance, have fun keeping the wheels balanced
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