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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-24-2013, 08:03 AM | #15662 | |
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Try waiting for a shop to remove each spot weld on a fender/wheelhouse, cut the front part of the frame at the seam in front of the core, and essentially rebuild the front end. Yes, it takes time. I have wet sanded my entire car at the shop, had a hand in doing some stuff, still need to go wire in the fans, but bottom line is I am paying cash and they make their living on insurance work that takes priority
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12-24-2013, 01:24 PM | #15664 |
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does a rebuilt rack and pinion come with new bushings? or should i be purchasing them seperately?
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12-24-2013, 08:20 PM | #15665 |
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refinished, how much would these be worth approx? powdercoating the faces black and re polishing/cleaning up the lips. WORK VS X9 (VS-EDITION) MADE IN 1998 18x9 +45 18x9.5+45 5x114.3 missing center caps, but all the bolts are authentic work bolts. They came off a Supra
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12-25-2013, 04:50 AM | #15668 |
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im having a problem with my s14 sub frame.
a annoying creaking noise keeps happening when ever movement is made up or Down. sounds like a old metal door opening. creak creak. i have PBM subframe risers godspeed arms and solid diff bushings. any ideas?
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12-25-2013, 08:59 AM | #15669 | |||
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On wheel value: I get my information from two sources who buy and sell JDM wheels and cars and half cuts and shells all day long, all year long. These are the values I got from asking.
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12-25-2013, 01:59 PM | #15671 |
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I'm doing the rear 5 lug swap and every time I try and put my 36mm socket in the hub it always turns while I try to take out the bolt. Any suggestions on how to remove it or make the hub stop turning?? I need help ASAP! Thanks.
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12-25-2013, 02:09 PM | #15672 |
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Use a pry-bar/breaker bar and wedge it between two of the studs. Now while holding the bar with tension applied, torque the hub nut. I hope this helps and happy wrenching.
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12-25-2013, 02:14 PM | #15673 | |
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**EDIT Well I keep on trying but the hub continues to turn! I need help! Last edited by acslater9; 12-25-2013 at 02:57 PM.. |
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12-25-2013, 08:21 PM | #15674 |
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QUESTION
I was in the process of changing out my FLCA bushings, and before I thought twice I took out the metal sleeve that you press the bushing into, I put the new bushings in and bolted it on, still haven't driven the car, but will this affect anything? |
12-25-2013, 08:29 PM | #15675 |
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the nuts aren't rusty and old. the threaded portion looks very clean, as does all the bolts. the wheels have light rash, and as said I will be repairing it all. If you think 700 in good condition, I think you're smoking crack. 700 as is maybe.
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12-25-2013, 08:40 PM | #15676 | |||
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Spray all the links with PBlaster and see if it goes away. The creak could be from anything, but look at what you changed first. VERY confused here. That 36mm axle shaft nut goes into the diff itself. Lay the car on the ground, have a friend sit on the brakes (or use the e brake) and brake it loose. If it just spins and spins and spins something else is fubar.
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12-25-2013, 08:40 PM | #15677 |
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[QUOTE=Cradle bushings in the back. The only way you can see if they are 'done' is to have someone move the car into reverse or 1st gear as you watch the cradle. You will see the cradle move and hear it make that noise. Job will take a while to get old bushings out before you can get new bushings in if they have never been replaced(my money says they have not). This is based on my own experience with my car, a 96 se 5 speed.[/QUOTE]
you mean the sub frame bushings? there replaced with solid PBM ones, and heim joints creak like that?! it sounds like it coming from the sub frame its self.
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12-25-2013, 09:07 PM | #15678 |
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It could be, solid bushings make all kinds of wonky sounds.
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12-26-2013, 12:30 AM | #15680 |
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Higher rpms at cruising speeds
So ever since i bought the car the rpms have been high then usual. Now this is compared to other 240s i cruise with and info i found online.
My rpm/speed ~3500/70mph ~4100/80mph AverGe i have seen ~3000/70 ~3600/80 Idk if my rpms are just off or if something else is wrong. JW if anyone knows what it could be. |
12-26-2013, 02:10 AM | #15681 | |
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12-26-2013, 07:08 AM | #15682 | |
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I been shopping work and other used wheels for a while now. I have also been talking to a few people in Japan who actually buy them and ship them here. Bro, you got $700 wheels, get used to the idea
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12-26-2013, 08:30 AM | #15683 | |
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Why not just raise the car a little? Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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12-26-2013, 02:06 PM | #15685 |
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anyone seen a place selling a obd2 > obd1 harness converter thing? lol i know enthalpy will sell you one WITH an ecu for 100, without, 200; ive already emailed them. then theres rywire which is 250. anyone know of cheaper options? like someone that makes them?
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12-26-2013, 03:49 PM | #15686 | |
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dampers? torn rubber bushings? ES type poly bushings binding? |
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12-26-2013, 03:52 PM | #15687 | |
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Or a funky tach. Or, do you have an automatic? They're going to be 3 or 4 speed, right? You'd have different ratios. As long as it feels like the clutch is always grabbing when it should, and rpm's correspond to speed changes at the wheels, you're fine. |
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12-26-2013, 03:59 PM | #15688 |
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Took my sr20 head to machine shop to have some work done to it. The hydraulic lifters sat in a bag for about a month. My question is, after bleeding the lifters should they be really stiff and not compress or should they have some play to them? I let all of the lifters sit in oil facing up for about 10 hours before I bled them. One of them I can compress with two fingers, the rest are solid and won't push down at all. Thanks for the help in advance.
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12-26-2013, 04:33 PM | #15689 | |
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Maybe put on lug nuts you don't care about, first, so you don't bugger your threads. |
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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