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Old 06-29-2010, 06:18 AM   #2041
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couple days ago on the main page were a video of one of the advertisers s14 drifting with a camaro engine, i want to see it again, anybody has it????
Not sure specifically, but hit youtube and type "LS1 240sx" or stuff like that. The "Mikespeed" LS 240 is absolutely insane.
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:02 PM   #2042
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is the from tank fuel line the the one that goes to the fuel filter? just trying to make sure.
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Texas does LS's hard
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:53 PM   #2043
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My compression is low on all cylinders.. 102, 122, 104 and 104. I believe this is due to the T on my fuel pressure regulator breaking. I had it t'ed for my boost gauge. Should I assume that the piston rings are the cause of the problem?
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:21 PM   #2044
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KA

My question might be simple for some people but im just very ignorant..
So my ka24e is dying little by little its nickel and diming me so i just want a newer ka24de. I know tons of places where i can find great sr's and rb's but cant seem to find an actual site with good ka's..

Can someone point me in the right direction of a professional company i can buy a ka24de with full harness and all that from??
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:48 PM   #2045
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is the from tank fuel line the the one that goes to the fuel filter? just trying to make sure.

yes the line the filter goes on is the inlet and the one without is the return.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:46 AM   #2046
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thank you^
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:53 AM   #2047
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My question might be simple for some people but im just very ignorant..
So my ka24e is dying little by little its nickel and diming me so i just want a newer ka24de. I know tons of places where i can find great sr's and rb's but cant seem to find an actual site with good ka's..

Can someone point me in the right direction of a professional company i can buy a ka24de with full harness and all that from??
You'd be stupid to go about it that way. Buying from a company your gonna pay at least double what its worth, and a completely fresh rebuilt KA will cost you damn near what youd spend on an SR. Your best bet for finding a clean KA is on the forums. There are plenty available, and you should be able to find a clean one for no more than $400. And a harness will run you like $100. Buying brand new is overkill... and if youre gonna do that, find someone selling a fresh block on the forums. Itll STILL cost you way less than buying from a professional company. Theres just no need to- its an OEM USDM motor.. the professional companies are only there to give us motors we cant source ourselves.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:00 AM   #2048
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You'd be stupid to go about it that way. Buying from a company your gonna pay at least double what its worth, and a completely fresh rebuilt KA will cost you damn near what youd spend on an SR. Your best bet for finding a clean KA is on the forums. There are plenty available, and you should be able to find a clean one for no more than $400. And a harness will run you like $100. Buying brand new is overkill... and if youre gonna do that, find someone selling a fresh block on the forums. Itll STILL cost you way less than buying from a professional company. Theres just no need to- its an OEM USDM motor.. the professional companies are only there to give us motors we cant source ourselves.
I have been wanting to buy one from someone but i live in such an unpopular spot for the kind of stuff im into. in fact im the only one in this town with a chuki.. weird huh but the thing that gets me nervous is you never know what youll get from a private seller and usually they will not be willing to ship even if i pay
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:47 PM   #2049
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Are s14 speakers 6.5 or 6.75 all around ??
A lot of online audio shops say different things Crutchfield, pioneer, Al & Ed's ect.

Last edited by J_Konnexion; 06-30-2010 at 10:16 PM..
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:05 PM   #2050
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Whats up guys I have a couple questions for ya. My tranny has been steadily getting worse through each gear since I had it swapped back in sept. When it's cold out or when the engine hasn't warmed up yet it grinds really badly into 2nd and a little into 3rd. but when it's a hot day and the engines warmed up the grinding is either barely noticeable or doesnt happen. I heard it's because the fluid in the tranny is to thick, is that true?

Also when I see a red light ahead of me and I start braking and Im in neutral or 2nd rolling to a complete stop, the light turns to green, So while still rolling I try to put it in first but it doesn't want to go. So I have to basically either jam it in there or come to a complete stop and then it will slide in. Same reason as above or is it like bad synchros or something?

And when ever I start from a stop a short high pitched squeal comes from my front left brake area. you can also occasionally slightly here it when driving also. Is it a bad rotor? brake? caliper?

Thanks alot guys any helps appreciated. and its a rb20det with rb20 transmission, stage 2 exedy clutch and the pivot ball was recently replaced if any of that matters.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:09 PM   #2051
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I have a 3 inch exhaust that came on my 93 hatch and my ka is burning oil like crazy. today i was warming my car up and ran my finger along the inside of my exhaust tip and there was oil all around it. is that normal? i guess it means i'm running rich, but when i changed my spark plugs a few weeks ago they didn't seem too bad.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:12 PM   #2052
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supercharger. ka24de. whos got it? can someone point me in the direction (other than what zilvia search bar vomits up)
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:48 PM   #2053
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1. after installing a stainless steel clutch line from master to slave, removing the dampner box and all that, my clutch feels soggy. I dont experience the "better connectiong with the clutch" that others have. stock s13 ka24de... should i make the pedal stick out more? more fluid in the reservoire? its at half

2. i have 17x8 front 17x9s rear. my tire thread got locked before i could get any good info, s13 with stock rolled fenders no pull, what would be a good tire size to run so i dont get rubbing... im in the wheel fitment/extreme tire stretch thread and neither are helping about rubbing
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:57 PM   #2054
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I just bought some 15-40 mobil delvac diesel motor oil for my sr20det is this ok?
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:36 AM   #2055
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wait seriously?

did you just say diesel anything and ask if it will work for a SR?
I hope that was a joke, if not Ill come down and pick up your car this weekend
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:57 AM   #2056
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yes diesel motor oil on a sr20det yes seriously a couple d1 drivers are running this oil on their sr20's like Ross Petty so if you don't like it dont rock it and if you dont agree i dont care, I was just asking if this was the correct one to run
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wait seriously?

did you just say diesel anything and ask if it will work for a SR?
I hope that was a joke, if not Ill come down and pick up your car this weekend
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:31 AM   #2057
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why is it called a "blow job" when technically she/he isnt blowing, but actually sucking??

shouldnt it be called a "suck job??"
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:10 AM   #2058
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Originally Posted by 94spitfire91 View Post
I have been wanting to buy one from someone but i live in such an unpopular spot for the kind of stuff im into. in fact im the only one in this town with a chuki.. weird huh but the thing that gets me nervous is you never know what youll get from a private seller and usually they will not be willing to ship even if i pay
Thats a bummer. But even if you spend $200 for shipping, youre still coming out ahead of a new (rebuilt fresh from a shop) engine. Something like that (totally stock, totally fresh) is gonna run you at least 1200. Make sure whoever you buy a motor from has compression tested it, and given you detailed pictures of it. Compression test is what really matters, but if the numbers are good and the motor looks beat, skip it. Dont pay more than $400 for a KA. Ive got my KA coming out in about a month and a half, which is probably too far away for you, but I'd sell it for like $275.

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Are s14 speakers 6.5 or 6.75 all around ??
A lot of online audio shops say different things Crutchfield, pioneer, Al & Ed's ect.
6.5"

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Originally Posted by MyRBpissesMeOff View Post
Whats up guys I have a couple questions for ya. My tranny has been steadily getting worse through each gear since I had it swapped back in sept. When it's cold out or when the engine hasn't warmed up yet it grinds really badly into 2nd and a little into 3rd. but when it's a hot day and the engines warmed up the grinding is either barely noticeable or doesnt happen. I heard it's because the fluid in the tranny is to thick, is that true?

Also when I see a red light ahead of me and I start braking and Im in neutral or 2nd rolling to a complete stop, the light turns to green, So while still rolling I try to put it in first but it doesn't want to go. So I have to basically either jam it in there or come to a complete stop and then it will slide in. Same reason as above or is it like bad synchros or something?

And when ever I start from a stop a short high pitched squeal comes from my front left brake area. you can also occasionally slightly here it when driving also. Is it a bad rotor? brake? caliper?

Thanks alot guys any helps appreciated. and its a rb20det with rb20 transmission, stage 2 exedy clutch and the pivot ball was recently replaced if any of that matters.
Replace your fluid. Try GM Synchromesh. Stuff works like magic. Or the Royal Purple synchro shit.

When coming to a stop, youre not going to be able to put it into first while moving. This isnt a defect... all of our cars do this. If youre moving, you take 2nd. When you stop, you use first. lol. Ive never had a 240 that "liked" to go into 1st while still rolling.

As for the high pitched squeal, I cant even begin to guess. You should just jack it up and take it apart, youll find the problem.

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I have a 3 inch exhaust that came on my 93 hatch and my ka is burning oil like crazy. today i was warming my car up and ran my finger along the inside of my exhaust tip and there was oil all around it. is that normal? i guess it means i'm running rich, but when i changed my spark plugs a few weeks ago they didn't seem too bad.
Are you sure it was oil and not carbon? If it indeed was oil, youre getting a LOT of blowby, and are running on borrowed time with that motor. It does not mean youre running rich. Running rich means youre dumping too much fuel into the cylinders, and not all of it burns off completely, leaving black sooty deposits and a lot of black smoke. If youve got enough blowby to have oil in your exhaust, you should be blowing BLUE smoke. If your smoke is blue and not black, your motor is fuct.

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1. after installing a stainless steel clutch line from master to slave, removing the dampner box and all that, my clutch feels soggy. I dont experience the "better connectiong with the clutch" that others have. stock s13 ka24de... should i make the pedal stick out more? more fluid in the reservoire? its at half

2. i have 17x8 front 17x9s rear. my tire thread got locked before i could get any good info, s13 with stock rolled fenders no pull, what would be a good tire size to run so i dont get rubbing... im in the wheel fitment/extreme tire stretch thread and neither are helping about rubbing
1. Bleed your clutch

2. I need the offsets to give an accurate answer on that, but assuming theyre not super aggressive, 225/40 or 235/40 should work up front, and anything from 235/40 to 255/35 should work in the rear. 255 might be a stretch if the offset is any lower than +20

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wait seriously?

did you just say diesel anything and ask if it will work for a SR?
I hope that was a joke, if not Ill come down and pick up your car this weekend
Read a book man, diesel oil has been discussed for ages. So can I come pick up your car this weekend?
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:14 AM   #2059
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Discussion on diesel oil

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/328792...l-sr20det.html
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:35 AM   #2060
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Are you sure it was oil and not carbon? If it indeed was oil, youre getting a LOT of blowby, and are running on borrowed time with that motor. It does not mean youre running rich. Running rich means youre dumping too much fuel into the cylinders, and not all of it burns off completely, leaving black sooty deposits and a lot of black smoke. If youve got enough blowby to have oil in your exhaust, you should be blowing BLUE smoke. If your smoke is blue and not black, your motor is fuct.
No smoke thank god. I'm changing the oil today so hopefully that helps. i have been beating on it pretty bad lately so i'm sure that had something to do with it. So now i'm thinking it was just carbon? Thanks a lot man
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:30 AM   #2061
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No smoke thank god. I'm changing the oil today so hopefully that helps. i have been beating on it pretty bad lately so i'm sure that had something to do with it. So now i'm thinking it was just carbon? Thanks a lot man
No problem. New username. Apparently i got in trouble.

But yeah, if its not smoking, youre not burning oil, or much of it. Is your KA turbo? Maybe thats where the oil is coming from?

If it was oil that was the problem, your spark plugs would be completely fouled, and covered with oil. If its running rich, theyll be black with carbon. Carbon isnt shiney, and its like powdery. Carbon is no big deal, a retune will take care of that, and its not doing any damage to the motor by running it rich. If you were burning a large amount of oil, youd probably know it. Check your plugs when you do your oil today and report back.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:23 AM   #2062
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supercharger. ka24de. whos got it? can someone point me in the direction (other than what zilvia search bar vomits up)
A guy with a username 'wagdatto' or something like that was working on a supercharged KA for his 510 wagon. Don't know how far he got, but he did a lot of work on it. Search for his thread.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:26 AM   #2063
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No problem. New username. Apparently i got in trouble.
Congratulations on adding an additional month on to your Pinking, "sirfallsalot243".

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Old 07-01-2010, 01:19 PM   #2064
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Just realized because Sirfallsalot243 mentioned it, I need to replace my gear oil as well. Can anyone say whether or not GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh gear oil is good to use?
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:13 PM   #2065
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1. Bleed your clutch

2. I need the offsets to give an accurate answer on that, but assuming theyre not super aggressive, 225/40 or 235/40 should work up front, and anything from 235/40 to 255/35 should work in the rear. 255 might be a stretch if the offset is any lower than +20
i did bleed it, still feels kinda soft, might have bled it wrong, not sure cause my sister was working the pedal and shes fucking stupid

2. wheel specs are
Front wheel size: 17 x 8 +20
Rear wheel size: 17 x 9 +15
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:42 PM   #2066
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Your guy's thoughts on buying a 240sx as a first car, and whether it should be stock,turbo,automatic or manual?
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:52 PM   #2067
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Your guy's thoughts on buying a 240sx as a first car, and whether it should be stock,turbo,automatic or manual?
i just bought mine in april, my opinion. Dont. I personally dont drive automatic cars, unless its an emergency or a must, but never will i own one. Stock is the way to go, especially with a car like a 240sx. Buying someone elses project leaves you with many unknown parts and problems, and then your stuck fixing their mess. But at the end of the day, my 240sx is like quicksand, the more i try to get out the more it pulls me in. I put money into fixing shit only to discover something else needs fixing. Buy something more reliable, own a 240sx when you have more than enough money to spend on a car.

Focus on school, since your 17.



my own question, what is the tube running from the valve cover to the intake, just before the throttle body... people always have breathers/filters on it and mine causes BAD idle if i shake it, should i replace or put a filter?

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Old 07-01-2010, 04:18 PM   #2068
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Just realized because Sirfallsalot243 mentioned it, I need to replace my gear oil as well. Can anyone say whether or not GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh gear oil is good to use?
pennzoil is sludge magnet from wht i hear. i just did my diff fluid, and because i didnt change it until about 1 month after getting it welded, instead of 1 week, im running royal purple 75-90 gl4/5 synthetic. Its like 20$ a quart but its worth it. i need to get some gl4 trans fluid though i dont wanna pay 80$ for fucking royal purple for my trans, fuck that
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:27 PM   #2069
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Question

Ive got a few possibly stupid questions of my own lol and just curious to know some answers so here it goes.

Do you really have to "break in" a clutch (either OEM replacement or upgraded clutches) or can you start automatically beating on it?

If you replace a timing belt (RB20DET) do you have to re time the car or would you be ok as long as you lined everything up to TDC?
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Old 07-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #2070
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thanks helped alot great info feed
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Originally Posted by sirfallsalot243 View Post
90% of it would be. I beleive the pedals are different, but can be easily modified to work interchangeably. And youd need to get an S14 speed sensor. Everything else should be the same.



Check this recent thread out- he's having similar problems.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/329747...oblem-now.html

Theres a lot that could cause that problem, and not a super easy way of diagnosing it. Follow the OP's checklist in that thread, starting with things you can check for free before you start replacing parts.



Honestly, Id probably either try to buy one locally so that I could see it run, or get it here on zilvia for the best deal. Obviously a local one is better, especially if you buy it from someone you know and trust. But id have no qualms with buying a motor on zilvia, as you can usually find pretty good deals. Just make sure that- whoever you buy from- that you trust them, and they dont seem shady. Youre handing them 2 grand... if theyre not willing to go outta their way to make you happy, then fuck em, your business is better used elsewhere.
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