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Old 05-16-2022, 02:15 PM   #23731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agamemnon View Post
They're different
Crap.

Okay on ebay they have this

eBay item number:
144357383807

And this
eBay item number:
184067000685


One says it will work for 94 and 95 240sx, which sounds wrong. And its shorter than the other one.

The other one is longer but it says 90-94 only.

Both say DOHC

Is either correct for 95+ S14? I have a OEM cable coming to measure and I will compare the listed size. But I figured you might know the length or some other way to identify
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Old 05-16-2022, 02:43 PM   #23732
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I have an english FSM for the notch top. PM your email and I'll send you the file.
Got it. Thanks man.


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Old 05-16-2022, 03:19 PM   #23733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Crap.

Okay on ebay they have this

eBay item number:
144357383807

And this
eBay item number:
184067000685


One says it will work for 94 and 95 240sx, which sounds wrong. And its shorter than the other one.

The other one is longer but it says 90-94 only.

Both say DOHC

Is either correct for 95+ S14? I have a OEM cable coming to measure and I will compare the listed size. But I figured you might know the length or some other way to identify
Both of those eBay listings are for s13s. I suspect the aftermarket manufacturer listed the years incorrectly. They maybe the same length, but mount to the car in a different way.
S13 part #18201-54F00
S14 part #18201-70F00

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Got it. Thanks man.


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Old 05-17-2022, 02:53 AM   #23734
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Is there any thread about parts hoarding collections?
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Old 05-17-2022, 09:50 AM   #23735
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Is there any thread about parts hoarding collections?
I was just searching for the same thing. Let's start an "Is this crap worth keeping" thread?
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:37 AM   #23736
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:53 PM   #23737
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s13 unknown front bumper

Anyone recognize this bumper? Kinda curious as it provides space for aftermarket lights in the ducts while keeping the factory turn signals. I searched and went to the blog associated with the license plate statement and could not find the vehicle. Here's the website where I got the pic: https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-...2eb471b5716483


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Old 05-18-2022, 08:46 AM   #23738
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Anyone recognize this bumper? Kinda curious as it provides space for aftermarket lights in the ducts while keeping the factory turn signals. I searched and went to the blog associated with the license plate statement and could not find the vehicle.
Vanquish:
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Old 05-18-2022, 11:38 PM   #23739
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Old 05-19-2022, 06:31 AM   #23740
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For an oil cooler on an SR20, what is a safe, but not overcompensating length of 10AN braided hose I should expect to buy? Setup will likely be Tomei block, line to Grex oil filter relocation/thermostat on RH strut tower, then line to the core on the RH side of the rad support in front of the radiator. I don't really have any obstructions in the battery tray area to worry about.
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Old 05-26-2022, 12:36 PM   #23741
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Anyone rocking a dash carpet or one of the covers? Mine is beat and looking at both options. Have brown dash, not sure which brown cover would be best matching. They offer dark, med & light brown for options..
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Old 05-31-2022, 08:53 AM   #23742
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Anyone can tell me whether a 255/55/18 Tire is going to fit on the back of my 100% stock rear height S14 ?? Its like 29" tall diameter lol
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Old 05-31-2022, 03:32 PM   #23743
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Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
Actually, this is exactly what you're looking for. Cardone Part number 20-0058F
5/8 Barbed filter, and $18 on amazon. Win/Win

https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-Servi.../dp/B00A6RLS8K
Update in case anyone is wondering, just got this piece in from rock auto. Perfect for the application, lowkey polished aluminum look to it. My steel wool inside catch can idea didn't go as smoothly. Turns out the GK unit has more baffling than expected, I couldn't just easily stuff steel wool in. Oh well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thursday7 View Post
For an oil cooler on an SR20, what is a safe, but not overcompensating length of 10AN braided hose I should expect to buy? Setup will likely be Tomei block, line to Grex oil filter relocation/thermostat on RH strut tower, then line to the core on the RH side of the rad support in front of the radiator. I don't really have any obstructions in the battery tray area to worry about.
Can anyone help a brother out here? Should be a relatively common setup. Summit sells 10AN line in a variety of lengths so knowing this can help me make an accurate purchase.
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Old 06-03-2022, 12:24 PM   #23744
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So I have a 95 s14 with a code 76 (fuel injection system), I have tried looking at forums but not very many with the same code. I previously had a knock sensor and mass air flow sensor code but i replaced both then had gotten the fuel injection system code that wasn't there before. so any tips on what i should look at first or try replacing to fix the code. thank you
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Old 06-13-2022, 06:18 PM   #23745
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Just installed a greddy oled boost controller and having issues with boost dropping off instantly. s13 sr20det with brand new s15 spec r turbo installed a year ago. new plugs and coils couple hundred miles ago. stock ecu stock injectors. not looking to raise boost level just the quicker spool to boost level. installed boost controller per instructions. tee'd in controller to line from top left port on intake manifold to fuel pressure regulator. top right port on manifold is ran to BOV and a tee to boost gauge. bottom port on manifold is capped. hot pipe pressure source to port 1 on solenoid and port 2 on solenoid to wastegate. set % is 0 tried every gain setting. start boost 8psi. hits 8 psi around 3000rpm then drops to 2-4psi then as the revs climb boost continues to climb to around 8 then will drop again. did a boost leak test and found a couple fixed and problem still persists. any ideas what the issue may be
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Old 06-20-2022, 04:52 PM   #23746
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In the FSM it says parts with this (X) should be replaced when disassembled. I guess they refer to tty for fasteners.

But there's two different pictures for the same fasteners and one of them says replace after disassembly the other one says not to replace. Anyone care to help me?


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Old 06-20-2022, 08:14 PM   #23747
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It's pointing to the nuts, not the bolts/studs... nuts are never TTY. None of those suspension bolts/studs are TTY on these cars anyway.

Edit: I did some looking around my car and at some new fasteners from Nissan. The reason it says these specific nuts are one time use is they are crimp type lock nuts, where the top threads of the nut are slightly crimped to add friction and help prevent the nut from backing off. Ideally you should replace these as they will lose their friction and you could risk stripping the stud if the threads are deformed. I do replace them if it's a really torque critical application like the exhaust manifold but I haven't replaced them on my strut tops before.

For the strut top nuts you could safely replace them with serrated flange nuts which are designed to be reusable. Other Japanese cars I've owned used those rather than crimp lock nuts. For the sway bar link, I always end up replacing the link which comes with new nuts anyway.

Last edited by AKADriver; 06-23-2022 at 12:33 PM..
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Old 06-23-2022, 06:19 AM   #23748
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Quick question: anyone with a JDM S14 rear bumper has a picture of what their license plate bracket looks like? mine is only bolted at the bottom two but I was wondering if there was anything else beside the bottom two
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Old 06-23-2022, 11:50 AM   #23749
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Quick question: anyone with a JDM S14 rear bumper has a picture of what their license plate bracket looks like? mine is only bolted at the bottom two but I was wondering if there was anything else beside the bottom two
On the Silvia, there is a separate bracket that connects to the body of the car. On the rear body panel, you can actually see the raised square pads where this bracket would attach.

I ordered the JDM bracket, if curious the part number is 96220-65F00. Waiting on car to get out of body shop though to attach it.

Like yours, my plate was screwed to the bottom of the bumper since there's no upper bracket.
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Old 06-23-2022, 03:05 PM   #23750
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Anyone recognize this bumper? Kinda curious as it provides space for aftermarket lights in the ducts while keeping the factory turn signals. I searched and went to the blog associated with the license plate statement and could not find the vehicle. Here's the website where I got the pic: https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-...2eb471b5716483

not that i'm really RECOMMENDING it, but this exists.
(note that it has "kouki" marker lights instead of chuki)
https://www.extremedimensions.com/19...r-1-Piece.html
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it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:25 PM   #23751
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Can you still buy genuine metal front fenders for a S14a from Nissan? If so what’s the part number?
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:26 PM   #23752
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Double post OOPS

Last edited by burgerboy78; 06-26-2022 at 03:27 PM.. Reason: Double post
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:58 PM   #23753
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Can you still buy genuine metal front fenders for a S14a from Nissan? If so what?s the part number?
I don't think Nissan stills has them. It's hard to tell because UK Nissan dealerships make it hard to see whats available these days. Its worth trying to ask the dealer network however. Here's the parts #s:
RH - 63100-82F30
LH - 63101-82F30

You might want to hit up Mav1178 in the Advertisers/Announcements section. He's expecting a nice shipment full of new OEM parts that might have a few fenders.
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:29 PM   #23754
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Why are all aftermarket coolant overflow tanks sealed (often with their own rad cap)? The OE unit is constantly vented.

Been a while since I studied fluid dynamics, but wouldn't the force of the water coming out of the main rad cap have to be stronger than the force needed to compress the air in the overflow tank (above the coolant) in order for it to work? And conversely, when the system cools, wouldn't it be fighting the force to create vacuum in the overflow tank?
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Old 06-28-2022, 03:03 PM   #23755
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For an oil cooler on an SR20, what is a safe, but not overcompensating length of 10AN braided hose I should expect to buy? Setup will likely be Tomei block, line to Grex oil filter relocation/thermostat on RH strut tower, then line to the core on the RH side of the rad support in front of the radiator. I don't really have any obstructions in the battery tray area to worry about.
I run the same setup. tomei block, greddy thermo, and I have the cooler mounted between the rad and the intercooler, all with -10 line. I squeezed the line between the rad and the right hand upright to the rad support. I think I purchased 8-10 feet of it. You may have a little left over, but that'll give you a little breathing room incase you make a mistake.
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Old 06-28-2022, 03:21 PM   #23756
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I run the same setup. tomei block, greddy thermo, and I have the cooler mounted between the rad and the intercooler, all with -10 line. I squeezed the line between the rad and the right hand upright to the rad support. I think I purchased 8-10 feet of it. You may have a little left over, but that'll give you a little breathing room incase you make a mistake.
I ended up buying 10 ft and I had about 18" left over without making any wrong cuts. Hopefully this helps someone else.
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Old 06-29-2022, 11:46 AM   #23757
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Why are all aftermarket coolant overflow tanks sealed (often with their own rad cap)? The OE unit is constantly vented.

Been a while since I studied fluid dynamics, but wouldn't the force of the water coming out of the main rad cap have to be stronger than the force needed to compress the air in the overflow tank (above the coolant) in order for it to work? And conversely, when the system cools, wouldn't it be fighting the force to create vacuum in the overflow tank?
Your instinct is correct. It isn't really acting like a true proper expansion tank because there isn't a return line for coolant that has been allowed to expand and lose pressure in the tank to return to the cooling system.

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineerin...coolant-tanks/

The typical setup I see is to have a 1.3 bar cap on the radiator and a 0.9 bar cap on the tank, and no return line from the tank back to the system (only a line for hot coolant to the tank) so it's still acting like an overflow tank, just one that I guess would maintain enough pressure that your coolant typically won't boil in the tank?

Anyway, the majority of aluminum coolant overflow tanks for S-chassis are just ripoffs of ripoffs, the S13 versions all have the same shitty design with the inlet port sticking awkwardly out the bottom for some stupid reason.
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Old 07-01-2022, 03:41 AM   #23758
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Can I vapour blast and zinc coat stub axles or should I leave the splines untouched and paint the rest?
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Old 07-01-2022, 10:35 AM   #23759
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Originally Posted by leftfootbrake View Post
Can I vapour blast and zinc coat stub axles or should I leave the splines untouched and paint the rest?
vapour like dry ice blasting? i would say yes, its not an aggressive enough media to remove base material, but as far as the coating, do you know the installed thickness of the coating? if its more than a few thousandths i'd be hesitant. is there a REASON you feel the need to do this to the spline area? can you just blast and coat the flange area and call it a day?
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Originally Posted by Mannykiller View Post
it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:34 AM   #23760
leftfootbrake
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brndck View Post
vapour like dry ice blasting? i would say yes, its not an aggressive enough media to remove base material, but as far as the coating, do you know the installed thickness of the coating? if its more than a few thousandths i'd be hesitant. is there a REASON you feel the need to do this to the spline area? can you just blast and coat the flange area and call it a day?
I want to restore them, zinc coating must be done completely. I can wire wheel it and rattle can half of the stub, not touching the part going into the differential.
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