Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[BoostnBabe]

I have a s13 sr20det. when I start my car weirdly it starts and runs with fuel pump off, but the safc2 comes on but when I adjust the settings it doesn't have any effect on how the car runs. any ideas? Anyone have a diagram to turn my harness into a stand alone so I can eliminate this pos safc.
TY

[brndck]

Originally Posted by BoostnBabe

I have a s13 sr20det. when I start my car weirdly it starts and runs with fuel pump off, but the safc2 comes on but when I adjust the settings it doesn't have any effect on how the car runs. any ideas? Anyone have a diagram to turn my harness into a stand alone so I can eliminate this pos safc.
TY

oh man.

1. was it ever at one point running NORMALLY?
2. did you do something to it? like wire in a SAFC?
3. don't just fucking randomly adjust the settings without an understanding of what they do
4. huh? you cant turn a harness into a standalone. a standalone is a ecu, not a harness. you can BUY a standalone, and a harness to go along with it, some standalones can be purchased with a jumper harness to wire in to your stock harness.
5. how do you "start your car weirdly"? like, you climb on top and then reach through the sunroof with a long stick to push the clutch pedal down, then train a raccoon to turn the key for you?
6. how is the car running if the fuel pump is off? how do you KNOW the fuel pump is off? have you tested for voltage and ground at it? Have you unplugged the connector or fuel lines?

[Presto]

Can I still get 15 degrees negative camber if my coilovers do not have adjustable camber plate on top? (Using other suspension parts to acquire camber)

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Presto

Can I still get 15 degrees negative camber if my coilovers do not have adjustable camber plate on top? (Using other suspension parts to acquire camber)

You can do any fucking thing you're stupid enough to set your mind on.

[BoostnBabe]

Okay so let me try this again, I have a SR20DET that ran perfectly fine. I took it out and placed it into my new shell and after hooking shit up I started it, ran fine! Took the motor out to paint and then after putting engine back in car runs like shit! Checked my ECU and it was fried on injectors. got a new ECU, had my chip swapped over but car is dumpin too much fuel. my fuel pump is on a switch and yes my fuel pump comes on when I hit the switch. but when I turn the pump on car wont start. when I turn the pump off car starts but runs rough. I have a SAFC2 that I have had with this engine for about 10 years. safc2 comes on but adjusting settings doesn't change how car runs if that makes any sense. I have no idea what to do!

[BennettWT]

So the metal that the rear hatch seal sits on is rusted away. What is the best way to fix this? I was thinking of just cutting the rest of the rusted pieces away, then welding a piece back in its place so it can seal properly. I'll probably chemically treat the metal piece under it to take care of that rust.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by BoostnBabe

Okay so let me try this again, I have a SR20DET that ran perfectly fine. I took it out and placed it into my new shell and after hooking shit up I started it, ran fine! Took the motor out to paint and then after putting engine back in car runs like shit! Checked my ECU and it was fried on injectors. got a new ECU, had my chip swapped over but car is dumpin too much fuel. my fuel pump is on a switch and yes my fuel pump comes on when I hit the switch. but when I turn the pump on car wont start. when I turn the pump off car starts but runs rough. I have a SAFC2 that I have had with this engine for about 10 years. safc2 comes on but adjusting settings doesn't change how car runs if that makes any sense. I have no idea what to do!

No, not much of that makes any sense at all.

What was "fried" about your injectors? The injector driver circuits obviously worked if it ran at all, unless your injectors are pretty fuckin' leaky...

What chip was swapped by who?

How do you know it's dumping too much fuel, and why don't you talk to whoever is trying to swap chips and all that?

Pay someone to fix it, don't touch it again. Tell them everything, lie about nothing.

[deolio]

Originally Posted by BoostnBabe

Checked my ECU and it was fried on injectors.

got a new ECU, had my chip swapped over but car is dumpin too much fuel.

my fuel pump is on a switch and yes my fuel pump comes on when I hit the switch. but when I turn the pump on car wont start. when I turn the pump off car starts but runs rough.

I have a SAFC2 that I have had with this engine for about 10 years. safc2 comes on but adjusting settings doesn't change how car runs.

like the ecu was fried on the injector pins? is your harness grounded properly?

are you referring to the ignitor chip? or like the ecu is chipped?

can you actually hear the pump turn on when you flip the switch?

have you checked the safc wiring?

[EF_jaycee]

I just got some old xenon skirts for my hatch but my doors wont close all the way with them on. Do I replace the hinges or something?

[[240sx]]

Do real NAVAN skirts have identification markings? (S14) Nico thread images are dead.

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[brndck]

Originally Posted by Presto

Can I still get 15 degrees negative camber if my coilovers do not have adjustable camber plate on top? (Using other suspension parts to acquire camber)

yes. just get custom LCA extended about 7"

[brndck]

Originally Posted by BoostnBabe

Okay so let me try this again, I have a SR20DET that ran perfectly fine. I took it out and placed it into my new shell and after hooking shit up I started it, ran fine! Took the motor out to paint and then after putting engine back in car runs like shit! Checked my ECU and it was fried on injectors. got a new ECU, had my chip swapped over but car is dumpin too much fuel. my fuel pump is on a switch and yes my fuel pump comes on when I hit the switch. but when I turn the pump on car wont start. when I turn the pump off car starts but runs rough. I have a SAFC2 that I have had with this engine for about 10 years. safc2 comes on but adjusting settings doesn't change how car runs if that makes any sense. I have no idea what to do!

1: remove the SAFC. Get a enthalpy or JWT ecu, tuned for your setup
2: check all grounds. Make sure you're getting good connection to bare metal, esp if you just painted the bay.
3: do you have a fuel pressure gauge to verify pressure at the rail?
4: pull the spark plugs, unplug the cas and fuel pump and injectors and let the engine dry out. i have a hunch the intake manifold is full of fuel or the cylinders have been washed down. have you changed the oil recently? did it come out stinking like gasoline?

[Blu92]

First time on this forum, so not sure if this is where I should ask this. But, I have a 92 hatch dual cam and my speedometer reads out at like 140mph at idle (the needle is just laying all the way at max speed.) and all the way up to about 45mph I would say, and then it starts to move toward the 100mph mark. At about 70mph it hangs at the 90mph mark. My odometer and trip still work fine, and so do the rest of my guages. Is this my speed sensor? What could this be?

[deolio]

Originally Posted by brndck

hella smart stuff

probably just needs a blown mold node light huh

[icedsole]

maybe someone can help me with this issue of my speakers not working i've been chasing down for some time now. my car is a '95 se with the factory amplifiers, my speakers and stereo were working perfect previously. however i recently decided to clean up some of the previous owners wiring (just looked super messy) and now i cant get anything to play out of the speakers so i must have removed something necessary, but now i cant pin point whats missing. my deck turns on and works as it should so its gotta be something with jumping or splicing a speaker wire? if anyone running an aftermarket deck with the stock amplifiers still in tact could send me a photo of how their stereo wiring is done that would be super helpful!!

[brndck]

Originally Posted by icedsole

maybe someone can help me with this issue of my speakers not working i've been chasing down for some time now. my car is a '95 se with the factory amplifiers, my speakers and stereo were working perfect previously. however i recently decided to clean up some of the previous owners wiring (just looked super messy) and now i cant get anything to play out of the speakers so i must have removed something necessary, but now i cant pin point whats missing. my deck turns on and works as it should so its gotta be something with jumping or splicing a speaker wire? if anyone running an aftermarket deck with the stock amplifiers still in tact could send me a photo of how their stereo wiring is done that would be super helpful!!

pull the headunit out of the dash, but leave everything connected.
remove the door speaker from one of the front doors.
wire it directly to the back of the headunit.
does it work? Y/N?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by EF_jaycee

I just got some old xenon skirts for my hatch but my doors wont close all the way with them on. Do I replace the hinges or something?

you need new hinge pins and washers. very common issue. parts can still be had brand new via Nissan. also new striker plates and door bumpers (the little black nipple things) help as well.

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Do real NAVAN skirts have identification markings? (S14) Nico thread images are dead.

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real navan skirts are VERY easy to identify. all you have to do is look on the insides. theyre made from black ABS plastic and have hinges for the OE clip system (and there are A LOT of them, cant miss em). there are no known replicas in ABS plastic or urethane, only FRP... so if you look on the insides, its quite easy to tell

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

real navan skirts are VERY easy to identify. all you have to do is look on the insides. theyre made from black ABS plastic and have hinges for the OE clip system (and there are A LOT of them, cant miss em). there are no known replicas in ABS plastic or urethane, only FRP... so if you look on the insides, its quite easy to tell

Ahh, gotcha. These seem to be legit then. Would you concur? [emoji848]




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[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Ahh, gotcha. These seem to be legit then. Would you concur? [emoji848]

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those would indeed be 100% OEM!

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

those would indeed be 100% OEM!

Dope! Thanks man, 'preciate it. [emoji109]

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[180sx_]

Has anyone had issues mounting turbo timers or boost controllers here? Timer keeps falling off and won't hold. Have tried the strongest double sided tape which lasted a few days before it would lose its stick. Even if I clean the surface still won't work

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[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by 180sx_

Has anyone had issues mounting turbo timers or boost controllers here? Timer keeps falling off and won't hold. Have tried the strongest double sided tape which lasted a few days before it would lose its stick. Even if I clean the surface still won't work

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Why would you want ANYTHING mounted there?

I mean, obviously use a glue, or hardware. If you're bent on causing no damage and using crappy household products, hotglue holds, until it doesn't, with no gradual peel.


I have no intention in searching, but does anyone have any memory of a kei cars of zilvia thread, or anyone own one, or have any interest in them? (I've got a mitsubishi truck, show you mine if you show me yours) Might keep the place open another day, you know.

[180sx_]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Why would you want ANYTHING mounted there?

I mean, obviously use a glue, or hardware. If you're bent on causing no damage and using crappy household products, hotglue holds, until it doesn't, with no gradual peel.


I have no intention in searching, but does anyone have any memory of a kei cars of zilvia thread, or anyone own one, or have any interest in them? (I've got a mitsubishi truck, show you mine if you show me yours)

It's a common spot to mount your turbo timer and boost controller. Easy access and because the harnesses aren't that long there's not many other places it can reach

My R32 had a turbo timer mounted in the same spot and it held. My mates silvia has a blitz boost controller mounted there and it holds fine also.

Maybe I should just use some rtv or something

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[dorkidori_s13]

my greddy turbo timer has been holding up fine with 3M double sided tape in that same area... might be how your surface prepping!

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by 180sx_

It's a common spot to mount your turbo timer and boost controller. Easy access and because the harnesses aren't that long there's not many other places it can reach

My R32 had a turbo timer mounted in the same spot and it held. My mates silvia has a blitz boost controller mounted there and it holds fine also.

Maybe I should just use some rtv or something

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Common doesn't mean good.

Maybe you should burn your car, you're obviously utterly incompetent, you surely shouldn't be driving.

[180sx_]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Common doesn't mean good.



Maybe you should burn your car, you're obviously utterly incompetent, you surely shouldn't be driving.

You sound like you woke up on the wrong side of the bed mate..

I never use zilvia and the only time I do for genuine help this is what I get [emoji23] just assholes. Just makes people not want to use this forum no more. Just jog on

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[180sx_]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

my greddy turbo timer has been holding up fine with 3M double sided tape in that same area... might be how your surface prepping!

That's where I'm confused because I made sure to really make sure both surfaces were clean

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[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by 180sx_

You sound like you woke up on the wrong side of the bed mate..

I never use zilvia and the only time I do for genuine help this is what I get [emoji23] just assholes. Just makes people not want to use this forum no more. Just jog on

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Sorry brah.

You asked an easy question, I answered with a common cheap easy adhesive that many shops use as a first line of attack in a cosmetic area you don't want something entirely permanent or any damage - you answered that maybe you'd try a different goop, that won't fucking work, which you should know if you've ever used it.

Next goop up from hotglue is shoegoo. It's quite strong, needs clamping, and may cause slight damage to plastic. I didn't suggest it because you didn't seem competent enough to clamp it long enough to set.

[180sx_]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Sorry brah.



You asked an easy question, I answered with a common cheap easy adhesive that many shops use as a first line of attack in a cosmetic area you don't want something entirely permanent or any damage - you answered that maybe you'd try a different goop, that won't fucking work, which you should know if you've ever used it.



Next goop up from hotglue is shoegoo. It's quite strong, needs clamping, and may cause slight damage to plastic. I didn't suggest it because you didn't seem competent enough to clamp it long enough to set.

Cheers mate ill give hot glue a try

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[Papajin]

So... I took apart the rear end of my S13 some years ago now, and I'm trying to put it back together better and stronger than it was before... I took a fair number of pics before disassembly, but I can't find this bracket in any of them.





Any idea where this was originally bolted and what was attached?