Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[singlecamslam]

Originally Posted by singlecamslam

are s13 alternators interchangeable with s14?

Pretty sure they are, they look identical. Anyone?

[BLKTOPSR20DET]

not sure but one of my buddies installed a Nissan quest alternator on his s13 for more voltage output.

[Vatche]

im installing a freddy intake manifold and i need to hook up the pcv valve and the brake booster.

the freddy intake manifold has a nipple on the rear with a nipple that fits the hose size of both brake booster and pcv valve, however the other nipple i have available on the intake manifold is on the bottom part where there is 3 holes, 2 are plugged and one has a nipple the size of 5/16 hose.

the 5/16 hose is to small for the pcv valve and barely fits on the brake booster. my question is: can i connect the bottom nipple to the brake booster and the other rear nipple to the pcv valve.

will it all function the same? would love to know asap

Edit: i ended up hooking it up the way i could.

now i have to add a question. for the freddy manifold do i need a dohc throttle cable, or can i make do with a sohc?

i couldnt find a distinct answer in the write ups and threads on it

[Irresistible]

How should I hook up Autometer oil pressure and oil temperature sensors onto a stock KA24DE? I want to keep all of the stock sensors intact as well, because I don't want the light to constantly be on in my cluster.

I'm thinking maybe a 1ft ss braided line from the stock sensor tap, to relocate to somewhere with more room, and then a T shaped fitting at the end, which will keep both sensors. 2 T shaped fittings if I plug in the stock pressure sensor, the Autometer pressure sensor, and the Autometer temp sensor. And then add a little more than 4qt's of oil to maintain proper pressure. Would this technique work? Where would I get the line and fittings?

[axiomatik]

I'm in the middle of replacing hubs on my car. Do the axle splines need any special type of grease? FSM doesn't seem to mention anything about grease for axle -> hub interface.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

How should I hook up Autometer oil pressure and oil temperature sensors onto a stock KA24DE? I want to keep all of the stock sensors intact as well, because I don't want the light to constantly be on in my cluster.

I'm thinking maybe a 1ft ss braided line from the stock sensor tap, to relocate to somewhere with more room, and then a T shaped fitting at the end, which will keep both sensors. 2 T shaped fittings if I plug in the stock pressure sensor, the Autometer pressure sensor, and the Autometer temp sensor. And then add a little more than 4qt's of oil to maintain proper pressure. Would this technique work? Where would I get the line and fittings?

when my gauges come in im doing a sandwhich plate for the pressure and a titek adapter for the temperature. You can also buy nissport ones which allow you to put two adapters to 1 port.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

when my gauges come in im doing a sandwhich plate for the pressure and a titek adapter for the temperature. You can also buy nissport ones which allow you to put two adapters to 1 port.

I planned on getting a Titek adapter for the water temp. I didn't know they had one for oil temp as well.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by BLKTOPSR20DET

not sure but one of my buddies installed a Nissan quest alternator on his s13 for more voltage output.

Which buddy was that? How does he like it? I've sold quite a few and not heard any bad reviews yet, but I always like good feedback

Originally Posted by sr20detman

the 5/16 hose is to small for the pcv valve and barely fits on the brake booster. my question is: can i connect the bottom nipple to the brake booster and the other rear nipple to the pcv valve.

They will be interchangeable without issue. As long as you've got a solid vacuum source to the power booster you'll be set.

Originally Posted by sr20detman

now i have to add a question. for the freddy manifold do i need a dohc throttle cable, or can i make do with a sohc?

DOHC Cable

[BLKTOPSR20DET]

Originally Posted by codyace

Which buddy was that? How does he like it? I've sold quite a few and not heard any bad reviews yet, but I always like good feedback



They will be interchangeable without issue. As long as you've got a solid vacuum source to the power booster you'll be set.




DOHC Cable

he got it brand new from autozone we know someone that works there so he got a discount and he said it works fine and it puts out like 14v or something like that.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

I planned on getting a Titek adapter for the water temp. I didn't know they had one for oil temp as well.

they dont, nissport makes one. You screw it into the stock position then screw the gauge and the light sensors into then as well.

I would advise just getting a sandwich plate or relocation kit thought. The nissport thing is too expensive for a p.o.s bung. its 50$

NISsport.com - Unique products for racing

[Irresistible]

Yeah, I don't feel like paying $50 for that. What sandwich plate works with a KA? I can't seem to find one. I can only find SR ones.

[Wake]

Skull n bones here on Zilvia (manonegra) relocation kit.

Ebay Universal

Projectnissan

I think phase2motortrend and frsport may sell them also.

[Irresistible]

Thank you sir.

[GabeS14]

what are the different options i have for refinishing wheels?
I know polished, and chrome, what other options are there?
WHich is the one that doesnt require polishing?
and i am not talking about painted or clear coated,
my Wedz rapiers never required polishing, and never went dull..some kind of ionized or machine polished look

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by GabeS14

what are the different options i have for refinishing wheels?
I know polished, and chrome, what other options are there?
WHich is the one that doesnt require polishing?
and i am not talking about painted or clear coated,
my Wedz rapiers never required polishing, and never went dull..some kind of ionized or machine polished look

machine finish? "Diamond polish" which is pretty much a machine finish

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Skull n bones here on Zilvia (manonegra) relocation kit.

Ebay Universal

Projectnissan

I think phase2motortrend and frsport may sell them also.

i thought SR thread pitch was the same as KA?

[daftphunk]

Hey guys, got a few small questions.

Anyways, was under my car today and noticed a few things. I have a 95 S14 with a Blacktop S13 SR20DET in it.

Off the tranny, I have a pretty thick wire, maybe like a 2g orange wire with what looks like a terminal on there. I am assuming it is a ground. Does this ground to the chassis or to the tranny? It isn't connected to anything at the moment. Must've missed it during the swap.

Also, I did an automatic to 5 speed conversion when I did the swap. My reverse lights don't work and I've been reading on how to fix it. While under my car I noticed that I had a broken sensor. It's right next to the slave cylinder. Would this happen to be the Reverse Switch (not sure what to call it), where I could plug in for my reverse lights to work? If so, is it interchangeable with the KA24DE one? Or rather, what is a part number or an interchangeable part that I can use there? Would love to get my reverse lights working and I think I just need to hook em up and I'll be good.

When I got the swap, he gave me this megan racing down pipe. I haven't been able to upgrade but it seems to be holding up so far. Anyways, there is a bracket on the down pipe and I am curious as to where this bracket is supposed to bolt on to? I am assuming that there is a brace or bracket of some sort on the tranny crossmember and I am just missing that piece.. but I want to make sure. If that is the case, it should bolt right up? It being an S13 SR/down pipe and my chasis being an S14. If someone could give me the part number for that as well, that would be awesome. Without that hooked up, my down pipe hangs a bit low, leading the rest of my exhaust to hang low and scrape shit.

Lastly, I have an S15 T28 with the engine. While under there I noticed my oil return line being all fucked up, so I removed it. Researched a bit and figured that there is a specific turbo outlet tube for the T28. I am assuming here that the guy I got the motor from didn't change out this outlet tube from the T25 which is making it impossible to hook the tube to the block without creating a kink in any sort of hose unless it is an 'S' shape. I was wondering if anybody happened to have the part number for the outlet tube and the oil return hose? I've found them online sans part number and would like to see if my dealership carries them before ordering and not being able to drive for a week. I am looking for part numbers on these:

http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/ni...M%20NPLOGO.jpg
http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/ni...M%20NPLOGO.jpg

Thanks, appreciate it.

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

machine finish? "Diamond polish" which is pretty much a machine finish


i thought SR thread pitch was the same as KA?

do most wheel repair locations offer this service? or is it a rarer thing? my buddy said he thinks its going to be super pricey

[RedSiBaron]

Originally Posted by GabeS14

do most wheel repair locations offer this service? or is it a rarer thing? my buddy said he thinks its going to be super pricey

What do you have and what finish look are you trying to do?

You may want to consider doing it your self if you want to polish...its time conssuming but its such a high grit process, that it ends up that's all it is...time, and that's what you are paying for

Id google rim and wheels services in your area and call around, some may offer the service some may not, and look for metal finishing companies (they'll probably do powder coating, polishing, sand/soda/abrasive/media blasting, and anodizing). Don't just use google, try the yellow pages...there's a Huge wheel and rim service here in cincy that's been around for over 50yrs and they don't even have a listing anywhere because people just know they exist, so maybe just ask around local shops and autoparts stores...

I want to add, you may get a better price at a metal finishing shop because they aren't wheel specific and aren't trying to function as much of a specialty/boutique shop...there's a powder coating shop here in cincy that will powder coat anything you can fit in their oven for $70...which is enough for 2 wheels...you do the math

[RedSiBaron]

Ok, let's see, I need some wheel size help...I want to get 16" xxr 522 wheels for my s13...I've searched and searched and read through the fitment thread etc and can't seem to figure it out...

Let's say I go with 16x8, what offsets should I run front and rear and get the tires as close to the fender without rubbing like the flush fitment guys do...ill do a fender roll but no pull and no more than a degree or 2 of camber? Im not stretching rubber either, id like some full tires on there for max rubber contact patch...thanks

[NickyD0403]

I need a passenger side axle for my j30 diff in my s13, the last 2 j30 passenger side axles I used popped the back cover off and got grease everywhere, and now I can not finf a j30 pass side axle anywhere.

Can I use a z32 NA driver side axle for the passenger side of my car? Should I use a driver side j30 axle? Or find another passenger side somewhere? Thanks!

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by GabeS14

do most wheel repair locations offer this service? or is it a rarer thing? my buddy said he thinks its going to be super pricey

it's not as often done mainly because it doesn't really give a 'nice' finish. It removed tons of pitting and stuff like that but it pretty much ends up as raw aluminum in the end. It's offered at most locations though - here's one in ohio Automated Wheel - Aluminum wheel finishes. Machining, Polish, Buff, Clear and Powder Coat, Painting in Cleveland, Ohio.

Originally Posted by RedSiBaron

What do you have and what finish look are you trying to do?

You may want to consider doing it your self if you want to polish...its time conssuming but its such a high grit process, that it ends up that's all it is...time, and that's what you are paying for

He doesn't want powder coating but I agree on doing it yourself. I did my eurolines by hand and sent them off to be buffed since i didn't have/want that equipment. I finished it with a lot of hand polishing, it's pretty fucking nice for the shit work i put. I can pm you some pics if you want - it took about 5 hours per wheel but cost 150$ in the end. Way less than having a shop do it.

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Where can i tap a water temperature gauge into a KA? The titek adapter that WakeBHR showed me won't fit my probe thread pitch (assuming its the same as the greddy one)

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by RedSiBaron

What do you have and what finish look are you trying to do?

You may want to consider doing it your self if you want to polish...its time conssuming but its such a high grit process, that it ends up that's all it is...time, and that's what you are paying for

Id google rim and wheels services in your area and call around, some may offer the service some may not, and look for metal finishing companies (they'll probably do powder coating, polishing, sand/soda/abrasive/media blasting, and anodizing). Don't just use google, try the yellow pages...there's a Huge wheel and rim service here in cincy that's been around for over 50yrs and they don't even have a listing anywhere because people just know they exist, so maybe just ask around local shops and autoparts stores...

I want to add, you may get a better price at a metal finishing shop because they aren't wheel specific and aren't trying to function as much of a specialty/boutique shop...there's a powder coating shop here in cincy that will powder coat anything you can fit in their oven for $70...which is enough for 2 wheels...you do the math

Well I have wedz kranze rapier wheels, 19x13-56offset
8 inch lip, so its a pretty big area to buff/polish lol..
I wonder if my buddy mixed up ionized finish with anodized?
they soudn similar, he said its a kidn of treatment so the aluminum loks like a mirror but is not polished..and never dulls..
the wheels came like that but i got in an accident and am having the lips rewelded on.

[Imarvin240]

okay i have been looking at the measurements of an S14 rear and FD RX7 rear widths (cant find depth from rear bumper to back of rear wheels) and i was wondering if anyone knows if an FD rear diffuser will fit on an S14? the numbers are really close but i dont want to buy one if it wont work...there arent alot of diffuser choices for an S14 and the numbers are close and there are some great options for the FD diffusers. thanks guys. if anyone has an FD and they can do some measuring and see if they would fit, that would be awesome... thanks again.

[Mesarina]

Where I can get an scramble switch for my HKS evc iv? Thanks

[codyace]

Originally Posted by daftphunk

Off the tranny, I have a pretty thick wire, maybe like a 2g orange wire with what looks like a terminal on there. I am assuming it is a ground. Does this ground to the chassis or to the tranny? It isn't connected to anything at the moment. Must've missed it during the swap.

That sounds like the transmission vent, and it's not a wire. The terminal should be connected to one of the bolts holding the trans and engine together.

Originally Posted by daftphunk

It's right next to the slave cylinder. Would this happen to be the Reverse Switch (not sure what to call it), where I could plug in for my reverse lights to work? If so, is it interchangeable with the KA24DE one? Or rather, what is a part number or an interchangeable part that I can use there? Would love to get my reverse lights working and I think I just need to hook em up and I'll be good.

One is a 5th gear sensor, and one is a reverse sensor. The actual 'sensor' is the same between them all, just a simple detent style sensor. Yes, a KA one would work without issue.

Originally Posted by daftphunk

When I got the swap, he gave me this megan racing down pipe. I haven't been able to upgrade but it seems to be holding up so far. Anyways, there is a bracket on the down pipe and I am curious as to where this bracket is supposed to bolt on to? I am assuming that there is a brace or bracket of some sort on the tranny crossmember and I am just missing that piece.. but I want to make sure. If that is the case, it should bolt right up? It being an S13 SR/down pipe and my chasis being an S14. If someone could give me the part number for that as well, that would be awesome. Without that hooked up, my down pipe hangs a bit low, leading the rest of my exhaust to hang low and scrape shit.

You are correct it it being connected to another mount. The intermediate 'mount' can easily be fabbed up and is interchangeable between any year car, as the engine is the same regardless.

In regard to holding it up (the entire exhaust) it will not...as the downpipe is fixed. MR downpipes are known to hold everything low.

For example:

Originally Posted by daftphunk

Lastly, I have an S15 T28 with the engine. While under there I noticed my oil return line being all fucked up, so I removed it. Researched a bit and figured that there is a specific turbo outlet tube for the T28. I am assuming here that the guy I got the motor from didn't change out this outlet tube from the T25 which is making it impossible to hook the tube to the block without creating a kink in any sort of hose unless it is an 'S' shape. I was wondering if anybody happened to have the part number for the outlet tube and the oil return hose? I've found them online sans part number and would like to see if my dealership carries them before ordering and not being able to drive for a week. I am looking for part numbers on these:

Go To any of the Zilvia sponsors, such as FRSport, or 240sxmotoring, or similar, and buy the tube itself. They are like 13 or 15 bucks.

Outlet tube wise, they are all the same in regard to the angle and length of the tube. The difference is the 'spread' on the bolts where it attaches to the turbo. you can use a t25 one on a t28/gt series by simply slotting the holes.

There aren't any US alternatives for that tube.

[Yasko]

Anyone know if a 245/40/17 on a 17x9.5 w/ 0 camber fit under stock fenders on a S14? or will i have to give a pull? looked through the wheel fitment thread but they never post their camber specs.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Yasko

Anyone know if a 245/40/17 on a 17x9.5 w/ 0 camber fit under stock fenders on a S14? or will i have to give a pull? looked through the wheel fitment thread but they never post their camber specs.

Offset ?

[Farkel]

Anyone have an ARC Shift Knob?

What's with the Double threading? There's like a plastic piece farther inside the shift knob with the actual M10x1.25 thread that the shifter attaches to, and then a giant ass thread at the base into the actual metal...



When mounted on the shifter, there's a gap/space because the girth of the shifter isn't as big as the opening of the knob

What's the point of the large threading?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by Farkel

Anyone have an ARC Shift Knob?

What's with the Double threading? There's like a plastic piece farther inside the shift knob with the actual M10x1.25 thread that the shifter attaches to, and then a giant ass thread at the base into the actual metal...

When mounted on the shifter, there's a gap/space because the girth of the shifter isn't as big as the opening of the knob

What's the point of the large threading?

well first off, please downsize your damn pictures
2nd. I wouldn't doubt that that plastic piece is an adapter, and the reason those threads are so large is so the plastic piece can thread on - the adapters would allow various transmissions to use the shift knob. I doubt arc wanted to make 10 different kinds - its pretty common - but they usually come in metal rather than plastic

to cover that gap - you can probably tuck your shift book into there, or remove the adapter and insert it a bit lower - paint it black

[Jonathong]

Anyone know which company makes the lowest drop on lowering springs for an s14? So far i see k sport with a 1.8 drop if there is any others let me know please.