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Old 12-27-2013, 01:36 AM   #15691
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Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?


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Old 12-27-2013, 02:24 AM   #15692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?



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Old 12-27-2013, 08:27 AM   #15693
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Any help is appreciated! http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/549118...e-problem.html
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:30 AM   #15694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?
S14DB's suggestion bay work, but I'd be looking at the junkyards for the new handle as it's only going to break again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by s14j View Post
thats what i thought
but goddammit man its annoying sounds like a rusty door opening.
sigh..
Now that sounds more like a heim link. As before, spray them one at a time with PBlater or WD40 and then you can see which one is the culprit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
something crazy is happening. When I put my e brake down it still is locked up! I have no idea what to do! help thanks
Is this from parking overnight or any time? Sometimes they'll stick on hingey calipers. You may need to give it a little extra gas to break them free.

If that doesn't work, see if the calipers compress back freely with the turn tool, and then check the cables to see if any are frozen/rusty/tore.

Quote:
Originally Posted by black'N'proud View Post
Took my sr20 head to machine shop to have some work done to it. The hydraulic lifters sat in a bag for about a month. My question is, after bleeding the lifters should they be really stiff and not compress or should they have some play to them? I let all of the lifters sit in oil facing up for about 10 hours before I bled them. One of them I can compress with two fingers, the rest are solid and won't push down at all. Thanks for the help in advance.
Here is an ok video on how to flush and bleed them:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz_hTDytbFo

The only thing is before you install them in your engine, refill another container with good oil, and just push the plunger down again until no air bubbles come out. As soon as you do that, drop it in the head. If at any time you turn the head upside down though (if it's on an engine stand or what not) you will need to rebleed them again.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:28 AM   #15695
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SR sr20 redtop into 89 240sx

I will have my sr20det redtop rebuild finished in about a week, is there anything I should know or do in general to make the engine run correctly? I will be running stock boost with a stock sr20det maf, gauge cluster, and O2 sensor, and the sr has new pumps, pistons ,rods ,and bearings. will it run correctly like this? is there anything I should check or do? I wired it up into the using the fr sport wiring guide so the wiring should be fine. I guess I have noob anxiety or something but I was just worried something wouldn't work right because its the sohc chassis. What should I watch?
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:00 AM   #15696
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Are the Blacktop Sr20 and Redtop Sr20 power steering pumps the same?
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:12 AM   #15697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Is this from parking overnight or any time? Sometimes they'll stick on hingey calipers. You may need to give it a little extra gas to break them free.

If that doesn't work, see if the calipers compress back freely with the turn tool, and then check the cables to see if any are frozen/rusty/tore.
Well I did the Z32 brake swap and put some brakes and left them on the car for a couple of days.

Anyways I tried your suggestion about putting some extra gas to free them and all I heard was grinding noise like it didn't want to move and I'm pretty sure the sound was coming from the front. Maybe the back which i'm really confused now

I also found out I was leaking on my left side where the z32 conversion line connects to the brake line.

Getting tired of this now...need my car for transportation. Any help is appreciated.

*Edit* Oh also when I change my gear from park to drive/reverse/neutral I don't have hold my brakes for that which is weird because I have always had to hold my brake to change gears.
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:13 PM   #15698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A DOG 406 View Post
Are the Blacktop Sr20 and Redtop Sr20 power steering pumps the same?
yes, you can also use a KA24DE pump, just change out the brackets.
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:18 PM   #15699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Adhesion promoter on the break then superglue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
S14DB's suggestion bay work, but I'd be looking at the junkyards for the new handle as it's only going to break again.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will be looking for a piece at the junkyard eventually.
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Old 12-27-2013, 02:48 PM   #15700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
I will have my sr20det redtop rebuild finished in about a week, is there anything I should know or do in general to make the engine run correctly? I will be running stock boost with a stock sr20det maf, gauge cluster, and O2 sensor, and the sr has new pumps, pistons ,rods ,and bearings. will it run correctly like this? is there anything I should check or do? I wired it up into the using the fr sport wiring guide so the wiring should be fine. I guess I have noob anxiety or something but I was just worried something wouldn't work right because its the sohc chassis. What should I watch?
Timing seems to be the biggest battle for newbs with rebuilds. I also recommend doing a boost leak test prior to start up as all the little holes and fittings need to be plugged. Lastly I would say don't forget to prime the whole system (crank it a for lil 15-30 seconds a few times with the fuel pump fuse removed.)
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:14 PM   #15701
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Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?


what kind of car is this on?
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #15702
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looks like you need to just replace the handle. No way super glue will hold...jb weld MAY hold for a little while but don't expect excellent results.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:43 PM   #15703
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k I already have put assembly lube on all the bearings nd stuff so it should be alright. thanks for the advice dude
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:24 PM   #15704
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What do used Injector dynamics 1000cc injectors and circuit sport fuel rail run?
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:20 PM   #15705
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I bought a used s15 turbo never changed a turbo before, however all went well and I primed the turbo before starting let it idle for 15 minutes but there was a very small amount of white smoke. is that normal?
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:22 PM   #15706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
I will have my sr20det redtop rebuild finished in about a week, is there anything I should know or do in general to make the engine run correctly? I will be running stock boost with a stock sr20det maf, gauge cluster, and O2 sensor, and the sr has new pumps, pistons ,rods ,and bearings. will it run correctly like this? is there anything I should check or do? I wired it up into the using the fr sport wiring guide so the wiring should be fine. I guess I have noob anxiety or something but I was just worried something wouldn't work right because its the sohc chassis. What should I watch?
So long as you followed the guides and FSM's, made sure timing was correct and you have no vacuum leaks, you should be good to go


Quote:
Originally Posted by A DOG 406 View Post
Are the Blacktop Sr20 and Redtop Sr20 power steering pumps the same?
Yes. And as Hongsterrrrrrrr pointed out KA pumps work as well, just gotta take the brackets off and utilize the ones you have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
Well I did the Z32 brake swap and put some brakes and left them on the car for a couple of days.

Anyways I tried your suggestion about putting some extra gas to free them and all I heard was grinding noise like it didn't want to move and I'm pretty sure the sound was coming from the front. Maybe the back which i'm really confused now

I also found out I was leaking on my left side where the z32 conversion line connects to the brake line.

Getting tired of this now...need my car for transportation. Any help is appreciated.

*Edit* Oh also when I change my gear from park to drive/reverse/neutral I don't have hold my brakes for that which is weird because I have always had to hold my brake to change gears.
The not needing the foot down thing to swap gears is very strange, but I unfortunately have no clue how the auto linkages and lockouts work in these cars.

As far as the brakes, pull the wheels and inspect. Metal to metal is no good, could have maybe put them in wrong or had a slider pop out too.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will be looking for a piece at the junkyard eventually.
Or even ebay...those things are cheap on all cars anymore. YOu'll spend 1/2 to 3/4 the cost to replace it with 'shortcuts' rather than just fixing it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 89hatchman View Post
What do used Injector dynamics 1000cc injectors and circuit sport fuel rail run?
Use the search feature to see what others have sold for. I do that all the time with stuff I wanna sell.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:41 AM   #15707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?


taco, I got a '95 sitting in my driveway...well the back half minus a few parts..

If that interior door handle is common between most models as it appears to be(Sentra SER, 240SX to 98) I have what you need. I only need to remove it and send it.
$40 Shipped USPS Priority. If you want more than the handle, like the button, cup and any interior attaching hardware, we can negotiate. I'm in upper mid TN currently rebuilding my 96. This is my parts car
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:15 PM   #15708
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taco, I got a '95 sitting in my driveway...well the back half minus a few parts..

If that interior door handle is common between most models as it appears to be(Sentra SER, 240SX to 98) I have what you need. I only need to remove it and send it.
$40 Shipped USPS Priority. If you want more than the handle, like the button, cup and any interior attaching hardware, we can negotiate. I'm in upper mid TN currently rebuilding my 96. This is my parts car
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what kind of car is this on?
This is actually on my mom's car lol. An '02-'03 Hyundai Elantra. Thanks for the offer Redline; I'll probably be looking on eBay too.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:24 PM   #15709
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Anyone know if these are S13 OEM mudflaps, and not just from some other Nissan? I've just never seen any S13 mudflaps with the Nissan logo on them.

Judging from the little curve cut on the bottom left one, I'm assuming they are and that one is the one that goes on the rear left by the exhaust.

But I just wanted to double check before I actually buy them.

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Old 12-28-2013, 02:58 PM   #15710
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The not needing the foot down thing to swap gears is very strange, but I unfortunately have no clue how the auto linkages and lockouts work in these cars.

As far as the brakes, pull the wheels and inspect. Metal to metal is no good, could have maybe put them in wrong or had a slider pop out too.
Well I found out that the caliper was hitting the rotors where that space is in between. Here's a picture so you have a better idea of what I'm talking about. http://importnut.net/240pics/brake_u...rcompare09.jpg

The space I'm talking about is where the guy is measuring at in the picture. The left side is actually grinding the rotor. I don't know if its on both side but I'll have to check tomarrow. Do you think thats why the car wont drive?

Also check this other thread I have, hopefully you can help me out. It may be another problem that might of caused my car not to drive and make grinding noises. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/549118...e-problem.html
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Old 12-28-2013, 04:03 PM   #15711
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Any kouki guys here? Looking for more information on these books in the trunk. Assuming they are from the factory.. I believe the books next to the nissan bag are the Owner's Manual and Warranty Information books if my eyes aren't deceiving me. More curious as to the book on the far right. I haven't seen this book before and was wondering what it was. Tried to ask the owner, but he hasn't replied yet. Thanks for the help
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:56 AM   #15712
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Will S13 4 lug rotors fit on an S14?
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:50 PM   #15713
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LOOKING FOR REVIEWS ON THIS TIMING CHAIN RPM MACHINE
KA24DE Rebuild Kit, Performance Parts Turbo Rated
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:57 PM   #15714
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Will S13 4 lug rotors fit on an S14?
yes but they both need to be the same type (ex. both s13 & s14 will need to be non abs) something about the s14 abs rotors are different i forgot what it was though. in general they should be interchangeable.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:04 PM   #15715
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I have to check my measurments on my z32 calipers most likely I bought the wrong rotor size 30mm which I think I need 26mm rotors because I'm hearing grinding.

Anyways if that happens does anyone want to buy 2 30mm drilled/slotted rotors for z32? I'll sell them for $70 PM me if you're interested.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:42 PM   #15716
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Chain may be OK. But, a lot of the aftermarket kits use powder metal timing gears. I would only use a OEM kit. Not saving much going aftermarket.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:01 AM   #15717
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Found out one of my calipers are 30mm aluminum while the other one is 26mm aluminum. And that's why my car was not moving, because I was using 30mm rotors on the 26mm caliper and it was stuck.

Is having 2 different caliper sizes bad for the car? As long as I have the right rotor for each caliper it wont do anything wrong would it? Thanks

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Old 12-31-2013, 06:50 AM   #15718
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Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
Found out one of my calipers are 30mm aluminum while the other one is 26mm aluminum. And that's why my car was not moving, because I was using 30mm rotors on the 26mm caliper and it was stuck.

Is having 2 different caliper sizes bad for the car? As long as I have the right rotor for each caliper it wont do anything wrong would it? Thanks
Basics of handling, stopping 101:
Rule #1: All corners must retain equal balance and force to handle and stop correctly

Explanation: Each corner of the car must balance out on either side of the axle, and diagonally across it's length. This means that the brakes must be balanced on each side of the axle in weight, size, and performance level(on the diagonal, an average of 60% front biased force). Shocks and springs must be the same at all four corners

To answer your question: You need to get either 2 30mm rotors, or 2 26mm rotors, and insure that the pads are equal on each brake and that each rotor is the same weight
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:23 PM   #15719
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My window wont go back up on the driver side. The Nissan dealership told me its 380 to replace the motor.......anything I can do to fix it ? It could even be the switc, I have no clue why its not working.
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:55 PM   #15720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Confuzedd View Post
My window wont go back up on the driver side. The Nissan dealership told me its 380 to replace the motor.......anything I can do to fix it ? It could even be the switc, I have no clue why its not working.
Hold the button pressed while you close the door somewhat hard. Works for me. I've been doing it that way for a year now haha
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