A Poor Man's Dream S13.

[PoorMans180SX]

Mazworx paperwork says 65ft/lbs. Seems light to me, but they should know what they're doing? IDK.

I I bought the 20mm extended shanks for the gktech arms for kicks and gigs and experimentation purposes. They don't fit with my 17in wheels unfortunately, but it does look like I can nearly fit a 265 up front for roadcourse work. I'm not sure how much of that this car will actually see, but it's fun to mess around with.



Definitely seems like the roll center would be on point with the car down another 1.5in.



But alas, I don't think I'll run the 20mm shanks for drifting.





Got my vibrant black muffler in, should make for a mellow tone. Gotta keep the street cars classy, ya know?



And finally got this in! EFR 6258 if you haven't been reading.

[S13project]

Get ready for instant spool with the 6258. So quick!

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S13project

Get ready for instant spool with the 6258. So quick!

I'm pumped for it!

Doing a little mock assembly I've figured out a few things. One is that the rear inner stud on the T25 is going to need to be shorted a little bit. I bought flying miata inconel studs, so that should be interesting.



Secondly is that the water fittings need to be re-arranged so that the in is on bottom and the out is on top. This helps with cooling.



Here's a little mockup.



One of the last few pieces, a Taarks oil filter relocation block.



And I bought S14 lower control arms, which are a tad bit longer in the tension rod section, so I think I'm just going to redrill my tension rod brackets and run them.

[S13project]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I'm pumped for it!

Doing a little mock assembly I've figured out a few things. One is that the rear inner stud on the T25 is going to need to be shorted a little bit. I bought flying miata inconel studs, so that should be interesting.



Secondly is that the water fittings need to be re-arranged so that the in is on bottom and the out is on top. This helps with cooling.

I went with the Stage8 locking hardware for the turbo, was a bit tricky on one stud but no interference.

Good info about the cooling lines. Never though it out before. Possible FullRace clocked it for SR setup since I purchased the full kit from them.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S13project

I went with the Stage8 locking hardware for the turbo, was a bit tricky on one stud but no interference.

Good info about the cooling lines. Never though it out before. Possible FullRace clocked it for SR setup since I purchased the full kit from them.

Yeah I have the Stage 8 as well.

Here's a good article with some data on why thermal siphoning is important.

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...or-your-turbo/

[TheRealSy90]

Hey you got the good hardware me too.

[IIIXziuR]

Very nice updates. For a Poor Man's S13, this is coming together very fancy hehe.
You always provide with high quality content and very informative posts, my man.

[e30gangsta]

" Secondly is that the water fittings need to be re-arranged so that the in is on bottom and the out is on top. This helps with cooling. "

Could you please elaborate on this? As long as the cartridge is being cooled, what difference does it matter on which side it comes through? Just trying to learn/understand more. I mean this in the most non dickhead way I'm just honestly curious.

[silviaks2nr]

that turbo/mani combo is sweeeet

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Hey you got the good hardware me too.

Only found it because you posted about it, thanks!

Originally Posted by IIIXziuR

Very nice updates. For a Poor Man's S13, this is coming together very fancy hehe.
You always provide with high quality content and very informative posts, my man.

Haha yeah, it's only taken me 15 years to get to this point haha. Thanks man, I try to contribute where I can, I've learned so much from this site.

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

" Secondly is that the water fittings need to be re-arranged so that the in is on bottom and the out is on top. This helps with cooling. "

Could you please elaborate on this? As long as the cartridge is being cooled, what difference does it matter on which side it comes through? Just trying to learn/understand more. I mean this in the most non dickhead way I'm just honestly curious.

Absolutely. It's not about which side it comes through, its about the inlet (cool water) being on the bottom, and the outlet (hot water) coming out from the top. This contributes to the thermal siphoning effect and naturally pulls cool water in as the hot water moves out the top, even after the engine is shut off. The Garrett article I posted above explains in more detail. On the EFR, there are four ports, two on each side. Because the wastegate bracket is kind of in the way on one side, it makes sense to move the inlet to the bottom on that side, and have the outlet be the top port on the other side. Hopefully looking at the pictures this makes sense.

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

that turbo/mani combo is sweeeet

Thanks man, I'm definitely geeked on it and feel very fortunate to own such functional, beautiful hardware.

On another note, this came in:



Construction looks high quality. I've gotta pull the front apart again and get all the new parts in there, hopefully this is the last time for a while haha. I also signed up for a drift event on the 17th, so I've really got to get moving here!

[e30gangsta]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Absolutely. It's not about which side it comes through, its about the inlet (cool water) being on the bottom, and the outlet (hot water) coming out from the top. This contributes to the thermal siphoning effect and naturally pulls cool water in as the hot water moves out the top, even after the engine is shut off. The Garrett article I posted above explains in more detail. On the EFR, there are four ports, two on each side. Because the wastegate bracket is kind of in the way on one side, it makes sense to move the inlet to the bottom on that side, and have the outlet be the top port on the other side. Hopefully looking at the pictures this makes sense.

I'm blind and completely missed the link on your post above. My apologies and thank you for the response. Guess I have some things to change.

[Fuglychuki91]

Halloween bash at autocity?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Fuglychuki91

Halloween bash at autocity?

Yup, but car's not going to be done in time. See below. I'll be driving Forrest's car.

So previous damage to the block deck means this block needs to be sleeved. Kinda frustrated as it seems like the machine shop should have caught this before they went ahead and did everything. Oh well. Might have found a solution that I'll be exploring today.

[S14rebuild]

How did that damage occur?

I had rot on my sleeves from years sitn with shitty coolant..the shop recommended sleeves, but i opted to source a virgin block

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

How did that damage occur?

I had rot on my sleeves from years sitn with shitty coolant..the shop recommended sleeves, but i opted to source a virgin block

Most likely detonation. Might have even blown a headgasket or destroyed itself when it was stock block, or after it was "built". It's impossible to tell.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Most likely detonation. Might have even blown a headgasket or destroyed itself when it was stock block, or after it was "built". It's impossible to tell.

Dam dissapointing...suprised the shop didnt catch this...idk how well u know that machine shop but looks a mess between this and the line bore.... id be co cered with the work done

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Dam dissapointing...suprised the shop didnt catch this...idk how well u know that machine shop but looks a mess between this and the line bore.... id be co cered with the work done

I did figure out that the main bearing clearance is .00244", which is loose but not out of running ability. I would have ran it and experimented with oil pressure with 5w50 and 10w60 oils.

The good news is that I've decided this engine will eventually go in my other car, so it will serve a purpose at some point.

[S14rebuild]

Ive always ran 20w50 on my sr...acually what saved it from exploding itself lol

What would u recommend for oil weight? Lookn at 10w30 or would 20w50 be fine again.

Bearing specs are within oem specs

[PoorMans180SX]

I recommend 5w40 for engines that haven't been opened up.

[PoorMans180SX]

A wild 2.3 stroker appears!

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

A wild 2.3 stroker appears!

Welcome to my world!

I went with the tomei stroker kit!

[Fuglychuki91]

Nice! I saw this block up fs on fb marketplace I think. That?s awesome Forrest is going to let you rip. He was just at my garage this past Thursday to drop off something to me and also said I could rip his car at auto city lol. It?s so funny how he explains he doesn?t care about his car and he can?t blow it up hahaha. I think I may take it for some laps but it?ll be late in the day because I work that Saturday

[PoorMans180SX]

Got this thing for a crazy deal. Now my turbo is borderline too small, but oh well haha. Should make a very rally-car-esk powerband.

[S13project]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Got this thing for a crazy deal. Now my turbo is borderline too small, but oh well haha. Should make a very rally-car-esk powerband.

Running 2.2L with the 6758 and its super linear. Honestly kind of miss the lag kick, but I do love the instant boost at nearly any RPM. Low boost and 110 I was hitting 420tq. Am curious to see your 2.3L scream once its all buttoned up.

[S14rebuild]

That oil lookn milkshakey

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S13project

Running 2.2L with the 6758 and its super linear. Honestly kind of miss the lag kick, but I do love the instant boost at nearly any RPM. Low boost and 110 I was hitting 420tq. Am curious to see your 2.3L scream once its all buttoned up.

Wow, what's "Low boost" for you? I have the high boost canister that's minimum is 17psi.

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

That oil lookn milkshakey

Been sitting for 2-3 years, so no surprise there.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Wow, what's "Low boost" for you? I have the high boost canister that's minimum is 17psi.



Been sitting for 2-3 years, so no surprise there.

Ahhh gotcha was wordern if it had todo with the tear down...excited for this build even more!

[S13project]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Wow, what's "Low boost" for you? I have the high boost canister that's minimum is 17psi.

Am running 18-19psi.....well I was when it made 430whp/420tq, The head was sent out for porting and new valves along with solid lifters. Still finishing up rest of the refresh on the car. Eventually will get around to tossing it on a dyno

[PoorMans180SX]

Drove my friends S13 last weekend. It was a ton of fun sending the NA KA hard in third.



More updates tomorrow.

[PoorMans180SX]

So tore the shortblock down this weekend. Luckily I did, once again, as some debris had gone through the engine and scored the main bearings.





You can see all the crap imbedded in the bearing:



Thrust bearings totally destroyed.





Luckily the crank took it like a champ and just needed a good polish.





There's some light scuffing on the cylinder walls and pistons, looks like just not quite enough piston to wall clearance, so I'll have this thing honed and skimmed.

JE 10:1 pistons with upgraded pins are pretty cool.