Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Corbic

On top of that, you'd have a reconditioned unit instead of just another high mileage used one.

^^^ THIS!

alternators are nothing special, take it and have it rebuilt. itll be good as new and you wont need to worry about a used one possibly taking a shit after a few months!

[Sills]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

^^^ THIS!

alternators are nothing special, take it and have it rebuilt. itll be good as new and you wont need to worry about a used one possibly taking a shit after a few months!

Yes, Ill be buying a rebuilt g20 alternator. Its just because no local shops have rwd sr parts and i need something that will fit. I need it quick too which is why I opted not to get mine rebuilt now.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Sills

Yes, Ill be buying a rebuilt g20 alternator. Its just because no local shops have rwd sr parts and i need something that will fit. I need it quick too which is why I opted not to get mine rebuilt now.

pretty sure theyre not interchangeable...

[TheRealSy90]

I always have rwd sr20 alternators rebuilt at the local alternator and starter rebuild shop. I don't even tell them what car or engine it's for, just drop it off and pick it up later that day with a 1 year warranty for $60 bucks, which you'll never get on a used part. Have never had an issue with them either.

They aren't some crazy unique part, forget about the whole rwd/fwd thing and just drop off the original one for a rebuild.

[Kallixtos]

Nissan Quest alternators are another option, just need CodyAce's kit. Picked up the alternator from the local pepboys for $120ish with lifetime warranty.

[hellion240sx]

What is the size mm and/or inches for the stock water temp gauge?
On a 98 240. Want to know if I can fit a 52mm gauge in there.

Thanks

[Sills]

Originally Posted by hscalixto

Nissan Quest alternators are another option, just need CodyAce's kit. Picked up the alternator from the local pepboys for $120ish with lifetime warranty.

I looked into that yesterday but the local partsource wanted over 250 for a rebuilt quest alternator.
I also just went to the local rebuild shop, the man smoking his cigarette while removing an alternator core told me if the bearings have fully seized he would not want to rebuild it as its probably destroyed. Guess ill have to order one in offline now.
Thanks to everyone.

[Gamepro56]

I was wondering has anyone repined the two power plugs when swapping a SR into a S13 instead of cutting/soldering the SR harness to the KA plugs?

[Reece]

Originally Posted by Reece

My new coupe has working HUD. It's super dope and I love it. However, the windshield has a huge crack near the bottom. I really don't want to spend a shit ton of money on an HUD windshield but I'm about to. My question is, can I just put a non-HUD windshield in the car and some sort of dark film or something in the corner so I can still use my HUD or does it not work that way?

Bump

1234

[pac579]

anyone know a good track day brake pads for the 90-95 q45 calipers??

[e1_griego]

I don't think there are any. HPS was it as far as I remember.

I think carbotech or porterfield will make any sort of brake pad you want, but I'd argue that it's easier to just switch to Z brakes, instead.

[Sills]

I have ended up buying an sr20det alternator. Will any modification be required to fit it to my Sr20de?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Sills

I have ended up buying an sr20det alternator. Will any modification be required to fit it to my Sr20de?

if both are RWD, should fit with no mods at all. The only difference between DE, and DET RWD is the head. T head has minor differences

[blksylv]

Originally Posted by pac579

anyone know a good track day brake pads for the 90-95 q45 calipers??

Axxis used to make ultimates and metal masters if you can find somebody that still has those in stock since they're discontinued now iirc.

[kingkilburn]

E brake light stuck on. Dims when on throttle. There is a buzz in the fuse kick panel that coincides with the light as well.
Brake fluid is topped off and there is no apparent damage to any of the calipers.

Tried searching here but found little more than hearsay and bickering.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

E brake light stuck on. Dims when on throttle. There is a buzz in the fuse kick panel that coincides with the light as well.
Brake fluid is topped off and there is no apparent damage to any of the calipers.

Tried searching here but found little more than hearsay and bickering.

did you recently do a Z32 brake swap up front?

my last s13 did this after i swapped over Z32 front calipers for a bit, eventually went away. never could figure out what was causing it.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

E brake light stuck on. Dims when on throttle. There is a buzz in the fuse kick panel that coincides with the light as well.
Brake fluid is topped off and there is no apparent damage to any of the calipers.

Tried searching here but found little more than hearsay and bickering.

replace the fuse and the switch.

That'll be $65 for the troubleshooting work. Welcome to the 21st century and online work. I'll PM you my PAYPAL and contact information if you prefer to send a USPS money order

[Mapsr20]

Idk if this question should be on this thread but I can't seem to find the answer, so forgive me if I'm not doin it right...please lol

Anyways I have two red top 62 ecu's, one is tuned by mines the other is stock. they both don't seem to be workin and would like to get them checked out/ fixed. Dose anyone kno of a place or how to go about this??

I'm located in SoCal 92236

Also, if anyone has a s13 sr20det red top compatible Ecu im interested...

[TheRealSy90]

Maybe see if RS-Enthalpy could help you out with inspecting the ecu's?

[D-Mo]

So I have a personal steering wheel and circuit sports quick release. Pretty much like the 2.0 version of the NRG qr. the horn button is not fitting into the quick release. I have tried numerous times. Will I have to get a newer version of an NRG quick release for it to fit or what is the issue ?

[NJs13_1993]

Anybody here good with bee-r's? I hooked mine up and it works fine on rev 2. When I turn the knob it changes the limit just like it should with the ebrake up. But driving with the ebrake down no matter where rev 1 is set, the car cuts at 3500. It revs perfectly fine with the unit off, gain turned to 0, but as soon as I set it to 1 it cuts at 3500. Idk what the problem could be, any suggestions?

[ViorelP]

Just a dumb question. I'm modying my car and right now i'm on the suspension setup. I've already bought coilovers and energy suspension bushing kit for all the parts.
A few days ago i've read something about anti-sway bar importance in drift.
But my question is: how do japanese do their suspension setup because on every movie i see on youtube, their cars are very precise, good stability, predictable and the most important thing, they can drift and make mass changes at high speeds. Their cars response very good.
What is the recipe?
I would like to do: coilovers, bushings, upgrade rear sway bar, stock sway bar in front, power by max knucle, tein or pbm tension rod, etc...But i'm still confused how to they do.
The drift cars from my country have a lot of power (600 bhp some of them). But they are slowly. They make mass changes very slowly, they aren't fast in drifting...They feel heavy when you are watching them drifting. Every video i see from japan, their cars are fast in drifting, quick mass changes, very good stability, very good suspension setup, even if they have 300 bhp.
I'm a little confused.
Thanks

[kingkilburn]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

replace the fuse and the switch.

That'll be $65 for the troubleshooting work. Welcome to the 21st century and online work. I'll PM you my PAYPAL and contact information if you prefer to send a USPS money order

The switch is working and there is no blown fuse or a fuse for the switch to begin with. Thanks for being a by the numbers Zilvian.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

The switch is working and there is no blown fuse or a fuse for the switch to begin with. Thanks for being a by the numbers Zilvian.

i think perhaps i shouldve mentioned that when i had the issue youre having, i replaced the fuse and it did jack shit...

did you upgrade to Z32 brakes upfront? is one of your rear calipers sticking?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

i think perhaps i shouldve mentioned that when i had the issue youre having, i replaced the fuse and it did jack shit...

did you upgrade to Z32 brakes upfront? is one of your rear calipers sticking?

Well lets see whats in the circuit...

E-Brake, switch, and a stuck on light in the dash. Guess what, you get to take off your steering wheel if you have a QD set up, pull out the four screws, two side plugs, and the three rear plugs so you can pull the cluster out, all the way out. You have a short in the circuit, and the most likely spot is the cluster itself. Pull the light out, it's a ebrake light that says your e-brake is on. Do you really need it?

Unless you want to trace the switch wires to follow them and look for a short(might be one, might not), the easiest thing is to simply delete the light

[kingkilburn]

That light is also the brake fluid level warning light and I'd rather not suffer a sudden brake failure and crash that could have been avoided had I not done some janky ass bullshit.

I don't know why I expected any other kind of response here. You'd think a known issue would have a known solution to go with it.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by NJs13_1993

Anybody here good with bee-r's? I hooked mine up and it works fine on rev 2. When I turn the knob it changes the limit just like it should with the ebrake up. But driving with the ebrake down no matter where rev 1 is set, the car cuts at 3500. It revs perfectly fine with the unit off, gain turned to 0, but as soon as I set it to 1 it cuts at 3500. Idk what the problem could be, any suggestions?

Post pics of the unit you have, including one of the underside. Just to verify that you have installed a genuine rev limiter and not a knockoff unit with inferior electronics.

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

E brake light stuck on. Dims when on throttle. There is a buzz in the fuse kick panel that coincides with the light as well.
Brake fluid is topped off and there is no apparent damage to any of the calipers.

Tried searching here but found little more than hearsay and bickering.

On the E-brake sensor, did you slide back the black insulation and tug on the wire to verify it's properly attached? Broken green wire for reference:

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

That light is also the brake fluid level warning light and I'd rather not suffer a sudden brake failure and crash that could have been avoided had I not done some janky ass bullshit.

I don't know why I expected any other kind of response here. You'd think a known issue would have a known solution to go with it.

You read too much into it man. Trouble shoot your dang wires. You have wire from the switch to the cluster, and from the plug into the cluster. You have to remove the cluster, so get to it. Now take your multi-meter and isolate the wires at the switch. Find the other end of each wire, and check each wire at it's end with OHM's readings. If the wire is good, it will read as a closed circuit should. You should have wires from the front of the engine bay, and from the switch all leading to the cluster.
Now take your happy ass out to your car and get to troubleshooting, because you ain't gonna find the solution here. You have a new switch, the bulb works, so find the shorted wire and fix it. No one is going to be able to tell you which wire is shorted, and everyone will say that light staying on is a common problem in early model Sentra's, 240's, and Altima's which all share the same basic electrical functions and cluster parts, or steering wheels. So instead of fucking with me, get your ass to your car and troubleshoot that bitch, bitch. Me, I'm going to check FEDEX to see if my valve cover gasket is in, go hit up Advance Auto for some silver paint, and fix my car.
You want everyone else to try to diagnose your junk from anywhere but your car, hang out, get nothing done. You know know where teh problem is, so go find it!

[kingkilburn]

All I'm asking for is basic where to look shit, man. There's no need to rip my fucking car apart looking for god knows what if thousands of other people have already fixed the very same problem on other vehicles. No need for shitty attitude right out the gate, especially when you offer no viable solutions.


The fact that the buzzing intensity and brightness of the light seems tied to the RPM makes me think that something is up with the alternator or a ground associated with the warning light circuit.