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Old 04-24-2010, 11:10 PM   #1261
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does the ka oilpan sit below the sway bar at all?
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:12 PM   #1262
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Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:13 PM   #1263
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^ not mine. but who am i?


Actually i cant read. i have a cusco so i dont know bout stock

Last edited by saleaf; 04-24-2010 at 11:14 PM.. Reason: cant read
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Old 04-25-2010, 12:54 AM   #1264
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[quote=isimon91;3410370]Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?[/quote
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Old 04-25-2010, 03:55 AM   #1265
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fucking shit man, calm down. someone will answer your question eventually. no need to post that bullshit 3 times in the same day.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:30 AM   #1266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E Double View Post
fucking shit man, calm down. someone will answer your question eventually. no need to post that bullshit 3 times in the same day.
shit, i know right

Quote:
Originally Posted by isimon91 View Post
does the ka oilpan sit below the sway bar at all?
no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isimon91 View Post
Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?
no.

[quote=isimon91;3410469]
Quote:
Originally Posted by isimon91 View Post
Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?[/quote
and no.

don't you have eyes? can't you lay down and peek under your car and check? or jack it up and then look?

they sit on the same level, the subframe brace is right before the oil pan and the sway bar, due to its thickness, sits slightly under that. so your bar will scrape before your pan does...
scrape order -- sway bar, subframe brace, oil pan,,,,,,,, exhaust.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:32 AM   #1267
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^^That is correct, but for factory height.

[QUOTE=isimon91;3410469]
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Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?[/quote
If you are lowered, yes. If not, then only when you hit dips.

Its 1030am on a Sunday. People sleeping in or going to church dude.
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Old 04-25-2010, 01:42 PM   #1268
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Anyone know the replacement alternator for an rb20det'd s13? From a US car or wouldi have to find an actual RB one?
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Old 04-25-2010, 06:21 PM   #1269
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[quote=xpertsnowcarver;3410828]^^That is correct, but for factory height.

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Originally Posted by isimon91 View Post

If you are lowered, yes. If not, then only when you hit dips.

Its 1030am on a Sunday. People sleeping in or going to church dude.
wait what? so when u lower it the height changes? lets say i lower my car 3 inches all around, that doesnt mean the plane that the oil pan and sway bar sit changes.. right?


------------------------------------------------------------------------
my own question: i know this has been discussed before, but whats a good brand for aftermarket bumper turn signals? i just got a bumper with the square cut outs for the position lamps but i want turn signals more, idgaf about position lamps...
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Old 04-25-2010, 06:56 PM   #1270
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wait what? so when u lower it the height changes? lets say i lower my car 3 inches all around, that doesnt mean the plane that the oil pan and sway bar sit changes.. right?
Yes. The sway bar has a pivot point along the chassis's frame. The section of the sway bar closest to the oil pan will be lower than the oil pan if the car is lowered or if you frame/bottom out the car going through a dip. If you car is not lowered, then the sway bar will not be lower than the oil pan.

I know this from first hand experience. I had my S13 on Tein S. Tech springs and stock struts. I framed the car going through a dip. My tension rod braces and stock sway bar too 100% of the damage. It was pretty bad.

Refer to this picture. Here you can see a black stock sway bar just behind the Nismo Power Brace. You can see where is scraped. The car is raised off of the ground, so, when I drop it back down on the floor, the sway bar will also move closer to the floor by about 3/4"-1".


Here is a picture of the pivot point on the frame rail and the link to the FLCA (front lower control arm). As you can figure, when you lower the car, the FLCA will move up, causing the link to move up. With the pivot point where it is, this motion will cause the section of the sway bar near the oil pan to drop down.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:55 AM   #1271
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will a single cam tranny fit a dual over head one?
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Old 04-26-2010, 04:49 AM   #1272
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Bump please

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What type of seat rails can i buy that will be super low and work with recaro srd's??

Also anyone know a good writeup to bleed the clutch?
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:39 AM   #1273
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Trans question was covered a coupla pages back, just search.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:28 AM   #1274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isimon91 View Post
does the ka oilpan sit below the sway bar at all?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitfire8o5 View Post
Anyone know the replacement alternator for an rb20det'd s13? From a US car or wouldi have to find an actual RB one?
we put a ka alternator on my friends rb25

there was some slight modification needed to one(i believe3 it was only one) of the mounting points...but it DID work and didnt take long.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:59 AM   #1275
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will a single cam tranny fit a dual over head one?
Yes

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Trans question was covered a coupla pages back, just search.
You couldn't just say yes?
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Old 04-26-2010, 03:15 PM   #1276
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Yes. The sway bar has a pivot point along the chassis's frame. The section of the sway bar closest to the oil pan will be lower than the oil pan if the car is lowered or if you frame/bottom out the car going through a dip. If you car is not lowered, then the sway bar will not be lower than the oil pan.

I know this from first hand experience. I had my S13 on Tein S. Tech springs and stock struts. I framed the car going through a dip. My tension rod braces and stock sway bar too 100% of the damage. It was pretty bad.

Refer to this picture. Here you can see a black stock sway bar just behind the Nismo Power Brace. You can see where is scraped. The car is raised off of the ground, so, when I drop it back down on the floor, the sway bar will also move closer to the floor by about 3/4"-1".


Here is a picture of the pivot point on the frame rail and the link to the FLCA (front lower control arm). As you can figure, when you lower the car, the FLCA will move up, causing the link to move up. With the pivot point where it is, this motion will cause the section of the sway bar near the oil pan to drop down.
damn man, thats y im getting the skid plate

would u happen to know a good way to inspect my shocks? i hit a curb (not very steep but still) in the rain and i don't know if it was just cus i was a little shook up or the car but it felt like the suspension was more bouncy. i had a feeling i blew a shock, besides bouncing and leaks what would be a good way to check? i have stance gr+ with not even 1 month on them so i hihgly doubt they would blow but you never know
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Old 04-26-2010, 03:24 PM   #1277
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Your shocks wouldn't need inspecting. You should check for bent links or blown bushings. Tension rods usually suffer the most, which is why I replaced mine, including the FLCA. I eventually purchased new tie rods as well.

Once shocks are blown, they're blown. You'll need to purchase new ones.

I have yet to purchase a skid plate as well.
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:02 PM   #1278
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at what point is it deemed neccessary to replace the Nismo Clutch Pivot Ball behind the fork in the transmission?

i asked due to the fact that, currently, my transmission is out, and im replacing a bunch of stuff for it...and if its neccessary to change mine out...cars max output id say will be roughly 250hp, if that... using a stage 2 clutch...

i figured id just say F it and get an SPL model since its currently not in back order and its the only thing stopping me from putting my transmission back together...
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:11 PM   #1279
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Is it safe to assume that:

If part numbers match up between SOHC and DOHC KA, they are interchangeable?
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:44 PM   #1280
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I swear...this car is really testing my patience 92 Coupe SE....here is the deal.....car has gone through 3 injectors..ALL on the first cylinder....car has new plugs/fuel filter previous to all this shit happening. The car has not seen a full tank of gas iin a while due to me just NOW being able to get a job..i ran the car today really low on gas until the light came on.. It gets Shell 93..all the time...first time was a stuck closed injector..second time was a stuck OPEN injector...got in tonight and car was skipping and backfiring and cutting up. I smelled fuel on the inside of the car and i could hear the fuel pump whining/humming..and car sounds like a WRX with a shaking idle when stopped....it has effected ONLY the first cylinder....any suggestions? Did a compression check on the first cylinder ant it was 150...i am stumped..

Forgot to mention car does have leaky valve seals..but oil is kept up.

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Old 04-26-2010, 09:51 PM   #1281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DALAZ_68 View Post
at what point is it deemed neccessary to replace the Nismo Clutch Pivot Ball behind the fork in the transmission?

i asked due to the fact that, currently, my transmission is out, and im replacing a bunch of stuff for it...and if its neccessary to change mine out...cars max output id say will be roughly 250hp, if that... using a stage 2 clutch...

i figured id just say F it and get an SPL model since its currently not in back order and its the only thing stopping me from putting my transmission back together...
I believe the Nismo pivot ball should be installed when other Nismo products are used, such as the Coppermix clutch kit. Or, when any high capacity pressure plate is installed. Horsepower wouldn't be a factor. Only pressure plate capacity. Stage 2 clutch wouldn't need the pivot ball upgraded. Save your dinero for something else.

Quote:
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Is it safe to assume that:

If part numbers match up between SOHC and DOHC KA, they are interchangeable?
Yes
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:27 PM   #1282
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im using an R32 crossmember for RB swap
now, you know that hard line on S13 crossmember that goes on the rack and pinion.
well it doesnt fit on the R32 crossmember.

whats the point of that thing going around the crossmember? can i just cut the line shorter instead of it going around the crossmember?
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:17 AM   #1283
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hey everyone,

I have a problem with my s14 front driver side suspension . The car had the damage when I bought the car. I dont know if the problem is the knuckle, the hub, or the coilover is bent. I bought a set of 20mm spacers thinking it was the problem but I bolted them on and the tire still rubs the coilover. I just so happen to install the spacer on the passenger side and it has about a inch between the coilover and tire. Any help is great.

here is the damaged side with a 20mm spacer


and here is the passenger side that isnt damaged. dont mind the tire on this side it was the tire that was on the driver side when i got the car. The tire popped due to the rubbing on the coilover.


here is a pic of the front suspension with the brakes removed


I can take new pics if needed in the morning. thanks again
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:46 AM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post
I believe the Nismo pivot ball should be installed when other Nismo products are used, such as the Coppermix clutch kit. Or, when any high capacity pressure plate is installed. Horsepower wouldn't be a factor. Only pressure plate capacity. Stage 2 clutch wouldn't need the pivot ball upgraded. Save your dinero for something else.



Yes
to be fair, im replacing the slave cylinder with nismo unit, as well as the short soft line with the nismo SS line...and i might be changing my mood once again and get the coppermix i found on RHDjapan...lol
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:37 AM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer240 View Post
im using an R32 crossmember for RB swap
now, you know that hard line on S13 crossmember that goes on the rack and pinion.
well it doesnt fit on the R32 crossmember.

whats the point of that thing going around the crossmember? can i just cut the line shorter instead of it going around the crossmember?
The point of the loop in the line is for cooling purposes. Yes, you can cut it shorter, but if you plan on racing/drifting, I highly recommend installing an powersteering oil cooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviance View Post
hey everyone,

I have a problem with my s14 front driver side suspension . The car had the damage when I bought the car. I dont know if the problem is the knuckle, the hub, or the coilover is bent. I bought a set of 20mm spacers thinking it was the problem but I bolted them on and the tire still rubs the coilover. I just so happen to install the spacer on the passenger side and it has about a inch between the coilover and tire. Any help is great.

here is the damaged side with a 20mm spacer
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9/IMG_2252.jpg

and here is the passenger side that isnt damaged. dont mind the tire on this side it was the tire that was on the driver side when i got the car. The tire popped due to the rubbing on the coilover.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9/IMG_2253.jpg

here is a pic of the front suspension with the brakes removed
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9/IMG_2156.jpg

I can take new pics if needed in the morning. thanks again
Aside from your right tire bead not completely seated against the rim, there are a few ways this could happen.
- The two bolts that hold the coilover boot to the knuckle have some kind of play
- The part of the knuckle to your coilover is bent
- The coilover itself or the boot is bent
- The spindle is bent upwards.

I'm assuming that your tire is installed correctly and not an angle. I'm also assuming that the coilovers are correct for your vehicle. The coilover boot between the S13 and S14 is different.

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Originally Posted by DALAZ_68 View Post
to be fair, im replacing the slave cylinder with nismo unit, as well as the short soft line with the nismo SS line...and i might be changing my mood once again and get the coppermix i found on RHDjapan...lol
Nice. I've been wanting to get that clutch kit too.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:41 AM   #1286
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relocated my battery to the trunk, i wrapped the hell out of the main wire with rubber tubbing and but i still want to put inline fuse just incase. where should i put the fuse and what amp fuse should i use ?

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Old 04-27-2010, 10:00 AM   #1287
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^^Put the fuse right next to the battery. I recommend no bigger than 100A and no less than 80A because the biggest fuse in your car is a 75A for the starter, and there really isn't a time where you can run enough circuits to consume more than 80A at once. Keep in mind that, even though you see fuses rated for 75A, 30A, 15A etc, it doesn't mean that's how much current that circuit consumes.
****Correction****

When running a sound system amplifier, you would give it its own high amp fuse, which should also be close to the battery.
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Last edited by xpertsnowcarver; 04-27-2010 at 10:47 AM..
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:21 AM   #1288
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Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post



Nice. I've been wanting to get that clutch kit too.
you wouldnt happen to know the max hp that coppermix can handle do you?
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:24 AM   #1289
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I swear...this car is really testing my patience 92 Coupe SE....here is the deal.....car has gone through 3 injectors..ALL on the first cylinder....car has new plugs/fuel filter previous to all this shit happening. The car has not seen a full tank of gas iin a while due to me just NOW being able to get a job..i ran the car today really low on gas until the light came on.. It gets Shell 93..all the time...first time was a stuck closed injector..second time was a stuck OPEN injector...got in tonight and car was skipping and backfiring and cutting up. I smelled fuel on the inside of the car and i could hear the fuel pump whining/humming..and car sounds like a WRX with a shaking idle when stopped....it has effected ONLY the first cylinder....any suggestions? Did a compression check on the first cylinder ant it was 150...i am stumped..

Forgot to mention car does have leaky valve seals..but oil is kept up.
Any suggestions? Car smokes like a freight train and the smoke smells of gas...its killing me softly...
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:40 AM   #1290
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you wouldnt happen to know the max hp that coppermix can handle do you?
It said 420ps on the nismo website but i believe it means hp! for the super coppermix
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