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Old 03-17-2014, 10:34 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EsChassisLove View Post
Yes. 420whp SR on low boost.

If you don't have at least 400whp, don't put this in your car. The gears are very very long, and low power cars don't like that at all.

But it gets 30-35mpg on the highway

What's your time and speed at 1/4 mile? I am planning to use q45 diff for gas saving but I don't know if it will hurt my 1/4 mile time.

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Old 03-17-2014, 10:50 PM   #32
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Haven't ran a 1/4.

But I can do the 1/8 in 2nd gear lol. 8000rpm redline and stock SR20 gets 90mph out of 2nd.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:21 PM   #33
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Haven't ran a 1/4.

But I can do the 1/8 in 2nd gear lol. 8000rpm redline and stock SR20 gets 90mph out of 2nd.
so my 350whp with 17x9 wheels S13 will have a funky acceleration if i were to get that diff?
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:31 PM   #34
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Wheels won't make too much of a difference.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:59 PM   #35
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My rear axle R&R is done. Be warned, I am confident in saying that this is the absolute dirtiest job you will ever do. Grease will go everywhere, so make sure your workbench is clear, make sure you have plenty of disposable paper towels, disposable gloves, and my suggestion: an apron.

I am running J30 axles. I took a chance and ordered Z32 NA axle boots from NISSAN and they fit just fine.

Getting down to brass tax, I found the FSM instructions rather confusing. Taking apart the inner CV was easy: open the boot, remove majority of beige grease, remove C-clip, then use a puller to remove the part of the CV that is pressed onto the axle shaft. With that done, the boot is free to remove.

FSM suggested marking the parts and not changing their alignment. Making marks on grease covered parts seemed like too much work so I just said fuckit and took a chance without making any markings.

FSM said something about how-to disassemble the outer CV, but I found it impossible. I used a slide hammer and attempted to pull it off of the shaft but it just would not come apart. Instead, I installed the OUTER BOOT after disassembling the INNER CV. With the inner CV apart, I was able to slide out and service the outer boot.

It appears NISSAN used 2 types of grease:
- The inner CV grease was orange when new out the bottle, or beige when old
- The outer CV grease was grey when new out the bottle, or brown when old

The inner CV grease is less viscous which is why it spills easily if the dust cover is removed. The outer CV grease is very thick and does not run.

When you buy boots from NISSAN, they include the boots, grease, snap rings, boot straps, etc. I did not know this and already bought Redline CV2 grease, so I shelved the NISSAN grease and used the Redline grease. Ironically, the red colored Redline grease looks and seems identical to the Mobil1 synthetic grease I have here. Mobil1 grease is a couple bucks cheaper too. 1 jar of Redline CV2 perfectly fills (4) CVs and I packed them generously.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:06 PM   #36
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The best way to remove the CV with the internal clip is with a brass punch and a hammer. Even then they sometimes won't budge. I would just do it the same way you did and service that boot with the other removed already. As for marking it for alignment, FUCK THAT. It doesn't make a damn difference in the world. The axles are NOT externally balanced after assembly like a driveshaft. Also, YES it is about the messiest job in the known universe. I HATE doing axle boots because of all the damned sloppy, stinky, old grease.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:06 PM   #37
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I am attaching photos of the extra clips, I really couldnt figure out what to do with these (other than arrange them like a pair of titties).
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixfxi View Post
I am attaching photos of the extra clips, I really couldnt figure out what to do with these (other than arrange them like a pair of titties).
The large clips are supposed to go on the inside of the tripod CV's to retain the "balls" into the cups. The small clips are the clips that go inside the outer CV's that you gave up on removing.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:13 PM   #39
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As for marking it for alignment, FUCK THAT. It doesn't make a damn difference in the world. The axles are NOT externally balanced after assembly like a driveshaft.
I figure maybe they are matched my how they are machined, possibly. Or maybe how they slowly wear together, but I just did not care to do all that. My hands (gloves) were lathered in grease and I was very much past finessing everything. Plus, I accidentally serviced the INNER CV first. After not being able to disassemble the outer CV, I had to disassemble the inner CV again, unpack the Redline grease, etc... it was a big pain.

My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.

Anyway, this was my first time servicing axles. I enjoyed learning about the differences in axle construction, but the job is messy. In case anyone is wondering, parts costs is around $130-150 (using OEM boots). I'm kinda surprised at how little servicing axles has been discussed.


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The large clips are supposed to go on the inside of the tripod CV's to retain the "balls" into the cups. The small clips are the clips that go inside the outer CV's that you gave up on removing.
FYI, my J30 axles did not have those. I did not see any machined provision for the larger rings so I just did not use them. Aaron, you dont have any photos of where they go, do you?
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixfxi View Post
My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.
For a lot of things I find that FSM's are best used as coasters...

LOL!

Quote:
FYI, my J30 axles did not have those. I did not see any machined provision for the larger rings so I just did not use them. Aaron, you dont have any photos of where they go, do you?
IF those CV's use those there should be a groove machined inside the cup near the edge. Like you said though I don't think that all of them use those as the boots retain the axle in position as well. Especially with the better ACTUAL CV joint for the outer joint. I don't have any pics, I've just seen that before. They're probably only used on the axles with the dual tripod CV's.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:27 PM   #41
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The J30 inner CV looks identical to the above photo. If you remove the dust cover and compress the CV boot, the bearings will pop out of the race. There are 6 bearings. I did not see a machined groove in the J30 axle. Maybe its only found on the Z32, I really dont know. The old boots were still good after ~20 years and they did not have that retaining clip. Anyway, I did not find it critical or compatible so I left it out.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:33 PM   #42
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Those clips are used in the tripod style joints like the stock 240sx axles. I had to go out to the garage quickly and check my J30 axles because I SWORE I remembered the inner joints being tripods, but they're not...
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Old 03-23-2014, 12:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixfxi View Post
My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.
While there is no 'balance' persay, it is good SOP to keep them all in the same position and marking to prevent any NVH issues. Granted this isn't as prevalent on the axles, it does make a difference with the driveshaft itself. There are some cars/trucks that you discover a new 'vibration' after putting everything back up in the driveline. All you need to do to begin troubleshooting is remove the driveshaft, spin it 180* to the pinion flange, and reinstall. I know it sounds wonky, but it works. I'd say 90% of the one piece driveshaft 'rumble' complaints from 240 guys can be solved with just spinning the flanges and re-installing.




And yes, the boot service sucks!
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:33 AM   #44
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So does anybody know what RZeppa axle setup is a direct bolt in for a non and s13? I already have an OSGiken 2-way with 6bolt output shafts, so idk what I would have to use as I don't want to change differentials.
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:28 AM   #45
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From what I can tell they only come in 5x1 and 6x1. You might be able to swap the axle/diff stubs in the OSgiken though.
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:41 PM   #46
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this thread requires no additional input

its all been discussed - simply re-read the thread if you dont understand the solution to your problem
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:56 PM   #47
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Are rear axles necessary? There are not any in the front.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:23 PM   #48
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Are rear axles necessary? There are not any in the front.
Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:22 PM   #49
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Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary
Bummer. Guess that is why the car will not move.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:48 PM   #50
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Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary
For WHAT possible reason would you take Matej seriously???? You're NOT new here, so what's the excuse???? Sarcastic as fuck troll posts are his signature...

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Old 07-28-2014, 10:54 PM   #51
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That was uncalled for. I am just trying to learn about cars.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:24 PM   #52
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Anyone happen to know what axle stubs are interchangeable? I guess the lengths of the stubs are different between chassis. It would be nice to know what works with what.

Was reading this thread for reference> http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=570091


I'm basically trying to fit 5x1 10mm flanges (for j30 axles) into a USDM open diff LSD (Kaaz or Cusco RS) and want to know which ones I can use.

I'm sure there are others out there wondering the same thing since the open diff LSDs are a lot more common.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:48 PM   #53
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Anyone happen to know what axle stubs are interchangeable?

From what I can tell the USDM 6 bolt stubs (3x2 open diff) and USDM 5 bolt stubs (VLSD 5x1) are not interchangeable.

Also looks like USDM and JDM s-chassis axle stubs are not interchangeable.

But it looks like the JDM 6 bolt stubs and JDM 5 bolt stubs are (from what I've seen on YAJ listings with cusco diffs). Can anyone confirm?

Also trying to avoid the 5 star 8mm stubs since they won't work with J30 axles... anyone know specifically what cars used these?
You're only adding confusion here..

Viscous LSDs use very specific output shafts and as far as I know, are not interchangeable with much other than a VLSD.

The 5 and 6 bolt flanges you are referring to as "JDM" are the 30-spline shafts that use 10mm hardware. Again, this has been discussed.

Re-read the thread.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:54 PM   #54
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Sorry... edited that post for clarity.

Just wanting to fit 5 bolt axle stubs to a USDM (29 spline) open diff LSD and am wondering what will work since it's not entirely clear.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:06 PM   #55
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From what I understand, NISSAN used "whatevers available" when it comes to the output shafts.

Meaning, a car could come with either:
- 3x2 - 8mm hardware (most common)
or
- 5x1 - 8mm hardware

If you want to go with a 5x1 setup with J30 axles, do what most people do and install an NA Z32 VLSD w/ J30 axles.

Page #1, Post #9 has photos that have been embedded into the forum because hosts come and go over the years.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:40 PM   #56
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Those 2 way LSDs (VLSD for Cusco, Kaaz, OSgiken) are not nearly as common. Trying to purchase one used so I don't have to shell out a ton of money buying new and mess with swapping the internals.

Are there any 5 bolt output shafts that will fit into an open diff S13/S14 LSD?
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:01 AM   #57
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Anybody have feedback on how the q45 3.54 setup affects 1/4 mile? Im on a 550-600 hp rb26 with z32 tranny.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:02 AM   #58
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how about you not post in this thread, since this has nothing to do with rear axles

there is a simple questions thread, go post there.

there are speed calculators you can use to take your HP and gearing to determine your performance specifications, i suggest finding and using it
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:28 PM   #59
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Quote:
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how about you not post in this thread, since this has nothing to do with rear axles

there is a simple questions thread, go post there.

there are speed calculators you can use to take your HP and gearing to determine your performance specifications, i suggest finding and using it
Haha yes dad.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:38 PM   #60
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Age: 32
Posts: 7,720
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TheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant futureTheRealSy90 has a brilliant future
Feedback Score: 10 reviews
So anybody running 350z/370z rzeppa axles now that 6x2 to 6x1 adapter plates are available?
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Originally Posted by crimsonrockett View Post
Such a good signature.
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