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Old 09-12-2015, 10:57 PM   #31
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Tension rods and lower arms are all painted. Accidentally added more flake to this batch of clear but came out better than the other parts in my opinion. Brand new S14 ball joints were installed since im using S14 OEM knuckles with 5 lug hubs.








Pulled the rear sub frame out of the vert since it was in almost perfect shape ill be using it in the Silvia. Gave it a good wash while it was out. RUCA'S will be swapped out for different brand later. Im still sourcing 5 lug rear hubs as well.

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Old 09-18-2015, 02:10 AM   #32
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I swapped out the heat sheild for the JDM one. Notice the JDM one is the smaller of the two.



Front end is all assembled for now as the car will be sitting for sometime while i paint my hatch.


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Old 09-18-2015, 07:51 AM   #33
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:45 AM   #34
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It will be sitting on these z32 wheels for now until i can find some rear 5 lug hubs and some wheels for a good price.


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Old 09-21-2015, 02:06 AM   #35
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Text me 9792366891 I have hubs for a good price
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:43 PM   #36
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Car progress is looking killer. Such OCD attention to detail haha! I'm not a show car enthusiast but have to appreciate a killer ground-up build.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:12 PM   #37
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Not that I don't love them, and your build is great so far, but why the tubs if it's going to live the show car life? Are they just because tubs or just in case tubs? Hehe
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:17 PM   #38
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Tubs look cool and are good for doing a shaved bay.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:18 PM   #39
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Not that I don't love them, and your build is great so far, but why the tubs if it's going to live the show car life? Are they just because tubs or just in case tubs? Hehe
Previous owner hacked up the stock fender wells and cut it out partly for inter cooler piping and had some sheet metal covering up some hole with JB weld. That's pretty much the main reason. Other than that they look baller especially with a wire tuck.
And yeah its being built for show but when the motor is broken in it will see some track time im sure Just not anything nearly as much hatch
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:35 PM   #40
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Since im using my modded lower control arms my tie rods needed extra room to adjust. Im using s14 tein inners and aftermarket s14 outers.
I could have just ordered adjustable outers and that would have worked but i like to have custom made parts whenever i have the chance so we made these adjustable links to go between the inner and outer tie rods. All work was done at my friends shop Bangma Machine Works in Bell Gardens, CA. One side is female to thread into the inner rods while the other side is male thread to thread into the outer rods.
Also made a couple of spacers for the rack to increase the angle since the tein inner rods have extra thread for it anyways.






Last edited by Suprareal; 09-22-2015 at 09:48 PM..
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:08 PM   #41
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Loving the build man. Like all the way down to seam sealing the tubs, clean and simple touches that make it look that much better!
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:56 PM   #42
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I wont be making any more progress for a few months because i will be painting my hatch. But as soon as that's done this build will be back and active starting with the motor install, and what comes after that is a secret.
Here's some last shots for now. First time its been off jack stands in a while.



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Old 03-22-2016, 12:16 AM   #43
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The hatch is finally done being painted. Its a very dark black cherry pearl and im happy with the way it came out for painting outside.
Partway through paint El Nino happened and blew away my tent ripped it to shreds and pushed the frame into my passenger door. So i had to finish it up without any shelter.





That being said the Silvia is back in progress.
First ill be finishing the assembly of the motor.
For power steering im using a KA pump. I was stuck with a mix of HICAS SR, regular SR, and KA pumps/brackets but nothing that directly bolted up so i cut and welded the 2 brackets in order to work and it came out great.




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Old 03-24-2016, 10:20 PM   #44
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Love you for painting your things nicely <3
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:32 AM   #45
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For the months this car has been down ive been collecting parts for it.
Got my 5 lug hubs for the rears and drilled/resurfaced out my rotors since ill be using stock rear brakes for now.




Haven't yet decided if ill be putting overfenders on this car so i decided on just giving the fenders a pull for now. These wheels of course are not permenent nor sitting/fitting the way it will be.




I was lucky enough to make a trade with the owner (good friend of Michael Essa's) of this beautiful car some people here might recognize. This Dmax hood is now on my car.



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Old 03-26-2016, 07:22 AM   #46
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That vented DMAX hood looks great on your car!
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:34 AM   #47
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fantastic. the attention to detail is unreal.

Wish more people still built s-chassis cars like this instead of just the niche community
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:27 AM   #48
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I'm finally having time to spend on putting the motor back together so i custom made this wall engine stand in order to work comfortably at my height of 6'2".
New belts and coolant/oil lines I made locally at Baker Precision in Signal Hill.





I will still be using the freddy intake. All new coolant hoses under and behind. Tubular bottom mount manifold i will be using with the T25.
Water pump pulley is actual Greddy. The other 2 pulleys im unsure about, hopefully later i will come across the other 2 Greddys.





Couldn't pass up this set of 19x9 wheels that came up for 70$ (not 2 piece). Just temporary wheels but they look nice.



Also purchased this 1JZ vvti from a JZX110 for only a few hundred. It is now converted to JZX100 drive by wire. With long thoughts of swapping this into the coupe instead of the SR i decided against it feeling the SR is better fitting for the feel I want for this car. So the JZ will just sit until something else comes up.

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Old 07-09-2016, 12:03 AM   #49
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S15 pick up of course.
Flywheel freshly resurfaced. I will be using a OEM nissan clutch and pressure plate since the one that came with the motor was still in great condition.





As you can see i did the Freddy delete here by installing the Greddy genuine plate. Does a world of a difference visually.





Im now getting back to the wire tuck by making my own full custom from scratch wire harness for the headlights, blinkers, corners, AC components, E fans, ETC... before the motor goes in. Engine harness will be tucked as well separate.



Last edited by Suprareal; 07-09-2016 at 09:16 PM..
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:48 AM   #50
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A VVTI 1JZ for a few hundred?! Damn that's a good deal! Wish I could find one that cheap round here.

Great build man. If there are any fiddly RHD bits you need let me know as I live in the UK 😊
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:07 AM   #51
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A VVTI 1JZ for a few hundred?! Damn that's a good deal! Wish I could find one that cheap round here.

Great build man. If there are any fiddly RHD bits you need let me know as I live in the UK 😊
Thanks!
There are a couple smalls i need.
The main ashtray in the center console, the correct e brake grommet connected to the center console, possibly the hazzard and defroster switches, and the panel under the steering wheel that the hood release cable is bolted too.
Also am going to need proper door panels and door harnesses but will probly have to find those locally.
Let me know if you can help me out with any of that!
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:56 PM   #52
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Nice work man.

I don't know how you do it, but finding rims for $70 and other parts for so cheap has to be a skill. TEACH ME!!!! lol....

Also, this pic made me laugh because it looks like the Silvia is looking at the hatch's azz by peeping through a crack in a door.......lol
http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/...psegccy7zm.jpg
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:14 PM   #53
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Nice work man.

I don't know how you do it, but finding rims for $70 and other parts for so cheap has to be a skill. TEACH ME!!!! lol....

Also, this pic made me laugh because it looks like the Silvia is looking at the hatch's azz by peeping through a crack in a door.......lol
http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/...psegccy7zm.jpg
haha i just wait around till the deals pop up and then make a offer on them! Next post is the b&m short shifter junkyard find for 18$...
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:35 PM   #54
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Can anyone confirm exactly which model SR my AC pump is from? Im having problems with none of the AC lines i have fitting this pump. Its unlike the other pump on my other redtop SR.




Got this B&M short shifter at the junkyard for only 18$. Sad it was off a local car that was involved in a very serious accident.
Also go the shifter knob for 20$ im not sure if its genuine tho.




I decided to do 3 separate looms to my headlights, 2 running down the passenger side and 1 on the driver.
One loom being wires running to the ac condenser sensors and E fan for AC.
One loom dedicated to blinkers both in the bumper and the side markers.
And the last loom for main headlights (all 3 in the projectors), and corner running lights.
The corner running lights and yellow inside lights on the headlights will turn on with the first click of the headlight switch with the headlights obviously coming on with the second click.
Im not sure if Silvia's used the amber sections of the corner lights as blinkers but that's what i am wiring them up as.









Im now Finishing up the front by adding original pigtails to plug into all the lights. They will be loomed up and tucked away after.


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Old 07-10-2016, 07:40 AM   #55
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excellent excellent build. I also have a hicas rack myself, I need to rebuild the rings in it though.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:28 AM   #56
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Headlight wiring is done i am just cleaning it all up now.
The motor also went in at last after 3 years of owing the car.
Very tight area using this intake with RHD but it does work.





Im having trouble with the height or the motor now. The hood sits no where as it should. As far as i can see these AVID motor mounts sit the motor about 1 1/2" higher. But when i removed this motor out of the car i bought it from (with same mounts) it did not sit as high as it does now. Im unsure why this is if anyone has any ideas leave a comment.
I will either machine these mounts down or buy some new stock style mounts to fix this if i cant figure it out.


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Old 07-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #57
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I think you can rotate the mounts and it may lower them.

Also, xcessive sells 3/4" drop brackets which I ended up using on my KA.
I'd assume they fit SR.
http://xcessivemanufacturing.com/ind...a240-lmmb.html
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Old 07-16-2016, 01:07 AM   #58
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I think you can rotate the mounts and it may lower them.

Also, xcessive sells 3/4" drop brackets which I ended up using on my KA.
I'd assume they fit SR.
http://xcessivemanufacturing.com/ind...a240-lmmb.html
Thanks. If i go that route ill just fab my own up.
Im going to shave these Avid mounts i have now and see if that makes a difference. Im seriously stumped why the motor sits so high even with stock mounts it does.
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Old 07-16-2016, 01:17 AM   #59
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Lower harness is now extended. Being the trans sensors, alternator charge, starter signal, and starter hot wire. Loomed and fed through the firewall. Everything will still plug into the fuse box as if it were stock making it easy to trouble shoot anything that might come up down the road.



This hole drill size is slightly larger than the size of the heater core holes in the firewall so the grommets that go in said holes fit perfectly in this making it appear almost stock.





Can anyone tell me what this plug is? It is on the lower harness close to the starter signal wire. There is another sub harness i have that will plug into it but i have no idea where it goes.

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Old 07-19-2016, 01:28 AM   #60
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Lower harness now routed. The small grommet above is for a vacuum line to a mechanical boost gauge i will be running.



Preview of headlights




I shaved my mounts about 3/4" making the motor drop also about 3/4". The motor still sits a little high but almost perfect because the hood now shuts without notching it and the oil pan is still above the cross member.




A/C line installed. I'm missing the other 2 still cant seem to find the correct ones that come off the pump.

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