GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[koukistylejdm]

Heres mine<

S14 SR
Cp pistons 86.5
eagle rods
cometic hg
ebay intercooler
homemade manual boost controler
3'' turbo back
airnix
3angle valve job
GT2871R .64
SAFC TUNED :O


result: 330whp- 296 wtq on dynapak
+- 18psi

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

hello,
So I got a new SR20DET built for me and for the life of me I can't seem to get an Enthalpy tune that will work. It's driving me crazy. It shouldn't be this hard. I have been through 4 sets of chips that are either very rich or very lean, and none of them have been close enough to make it work by adjusting base fuel pressure to compensate. Configuration:

SR20DET #62 ECU flashed by Enthalpy
GT2871R .64 using the internal wastegate and stock actuator
Circuit Sports braided turbo oil & coolant lines
BC264 12.0mm cams (new)
JWT cam gears (new)
Greddy valve springs, BC titanium retainers (new)
Megan tubular exhaust manifold
Stock SR20DET S13 intake manifold, S13 throttle body (motor is a black top non-vvt)
Z32 N62 MAF
Apexi Z32 suction kit
Injector Dynamics ID1000 top feed high impedance fuel injectors (new)
HKS top feed fuel rail (new)
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, Aeromotive 10AN filter and Aeromotive AN push lock lines (new)
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, 86.5mm (new)
Eagle rods (new)
ARP head studs (new)
Apexi 1.1 head gasket (new)
Blitz i-sbc ID digital boost controller
Greddy turbo elbow and down pipe
Invidia 3” full exhaust with Magnaflow 3” spun metallic catalytic converter, and extra 3” Magnaflow race muffler to quiet it down
Greddy hot pipe
Greddy front mount intercooler
Greddy blow off valve

Yesterday it stranded me at my work because it fouled out all my plugs by covering them with unburned fuel just trying to start it. I am thinking of giving up on the ROM tune and going AEM, but everything I have read tells me that I shouldn't HAVE to do it. Are there any 2871 guys who have gone standalone?

Did you degree your cams? BC Cams blows balls.... And they aren't really drop in cams. You have to dyno and mess with the timing with each gear. Hence you either go JWT cams or HKS or Tomei. But really should have went stock cam gears with JWT S3's.... Which codyace swear by hahaha.... I would trust the man...

[TheRealSy90]

S4's all day, best sr cam!!!

[slider2828]

Hey CodyAce or anyone else.

Well I currently have HKS 264/272 Step2's and was wondering if I want to keep some mid end, should I stick with a stock manifold or really go with a Freddy cause the mid-end power wouldn't make that big of a difference?

Drive train is a 4.36 final S15 HLSD, Steel one piece drive shaft, and fidanza flywheel. Mostly track...

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by di-devol

Just drifting, at one of the short tracks is basically hot lapping(short and tight corners lots of transistions). The other tracks are more sustained high rpm long sweeping turns.

It will be on 92, this is my daily as well. Maybe 20 psi is pushing it? lol

Thanks!

I was pushing 19 psi on my .86 AR daily and on the track.... I have a feeling that even with tight (cylinder wall to ring gap) total seals, I think is a lot. I mean depends how often you push the car.... hahaha

But I would go 100 or better on the track, but depends on your ambient temperature too as well. Safe better than sorry

[di-devol]

^ yep, I'm sure the tuner will have input as well. Going with the AEM ems that I got, thanks!

I'll post up when it's tuned.

[Cloud9]

Hello, I am buying a new turbo setup next month and would really appreciate some quick advice. I have been reading through this thread but there is a lot to read.

My question is would i be able to reach 350+ hp by adding
GT2871r .64
larger injectors (not sure what size)
epiphany tune
manifold

Or would i need cams also to reach that goal OR a .86? And is there anything im missing that i would need or what would be some good options?

Here is my current setup that has been run for a few years.
S14 SR20ET Kouki motor
Greddy intake w/ greddy filter
Z32 MAF
TOMEI 555cc injectors
TOMEI RAS
SAFC II
Trust turbo elbow
GP Sports downpipe, cat delete pipe
Buddy Club Spec II exhaust
TOMEI Oil block adapter
Earl's Oil Thermostat

[EsChassisLove]

Man I need to figure out how to re-subscribe to this thread. Doesn't show up in my userCP.

Anyways, me and Codyace did discuss cams options and I am indeed going with JWT S3 cams. I've already returned my BC valvesprings/retainers.

Just waiting on this tax return lol

[EsChassisLove]

Guess who's #2 cylinder is 50psi low on compression?

Time for a rebuild....again...

Now the hard part, choosing pistons.

Wiseco
CP
Toda even?

WHICH ONE?!?!

[StryfeS13]

I'd go with Wisecos. Just personal preference though.

[Pinggg]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

Guess who's #2 cylinder is 50psi low on compression?

Time for a rebuild....again...

Now the hard part, choosing pistons.

Wiseco
CP
Toda even?

WHICH ONE?!?!

CP! you won't regret it!

[EsChassisLove]

I'm honestly between Wiseco and CP

I have Wiseco right now. 87mm. Got 10,000+ miles out them and for a good 1000 miles the engine was running like absolute garbage. I blame that on the early failure.

My main concern right now is whether or not I have to go up a size or not. I don't want to go up because I dont want to get the block sleeved. :/

Edit-I am kinda glad this happend. Now I can send it to the shop and when it comes out it is done. I'll break it in, take it back to the shop for cams and avcr and a tune then finished. I wont touch it any more.

[SR20DETpwr]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Hey CodyAce or anyone else.

Well I currently have HKS 264/272 Step2's and was wondering if I want to keep some mid end, should I stick with a stock manifold or really go with a Freddy cause the mid-end power wouldn't make that big of a difference?

Drive train is a 4.36 final S15 HLSD, Steel one piece drive shaft, and fidanza flywheel. Mostly track...

I'm running the same cams you are with a GReddy intake manifold. My dyno graph is posted on page 76 if that helps you out at all. The details of my engine are posted as well if you need to compare to your setup. Hope this helps!

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by SR20DETpwr

I'm running the same cams you are with a GReddy intake manifold. My dyno graph is posted on page 76 if that helps you out at all. The details of my engine are posted as well if you need to compare to your setup. Hope this helps!

Thanks SR20DETpwr.... do you have a higher res picture of your dyno? I can't see RPM's and HP/TQ cross as well.... That would help a lot. Thanks!

[tabasco122]

So is there anything wrong with getting the compressor cover that bolts right up? or should i get a regular one? will it limit me power wise?

should be ordering stuff before the end of the month. think im going to go with id1000 injectors, as long as enthalpy says they are cool.

how much boost do you think i can run with a hks wastegate? i know the internal gate limits you a bit.

[RocketOgre]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Thanks SR20DETpwr.... do you have a higher res picture of your dyno? I can't see RPM's and HP/TQ cross as well.... That would help a lot. Thanks!

HP/TQ always crosses over at 5252rpm because horsepower is just a mathematic function of torque vs. RPMs. Hope that makes it a bit easier for you to read his dyno graph now

[codyace]

QUOTE=EsChassisLove;4488191]WHICH ONE?!?![/QUOTE]

I prefer the CP stuff, however I'd be curious as to how good the bore/block is, especially with you being at 87mm.

Originally Posted by tabasco122

So is there anything wrong with getting the compressor cover that bolts right up? or should i get a regular one? will it limit me power wise?

should be ordering stuff before the end of the month. think im going to go with id1000 injectors, as long as enthalpy says they are cool.

how much boost do you think i can run with a hks wastegate? i know the internal gate limits you a bit.

The bolt up style compressor will work just fine and make good power, the 3" inlet though typically makes better power. The HKS gate will allow any boost you want to run, however trying to real it in is where you'll have the issue. It'll boost whatever the charger can make

Originally Posted by inopsey

all sr20s are atleast 10+ years old from the factory, and the springs are just as old. valve springs are always compressed weather the engine is running or not, so the springs will wear by age and not just engine mileage. worn springs can prevent the engine from making peak cylinder pressures at high rpm and power levels; therefore it is always a good idea to do the valve springs, at least new oem, when upgrading to aftermarket cams.

It's not a bad idea no...however I'll maintain it's redundant and 99.5% of the time not needed. I can reference hundreds of people turbocharged, on JWT S series cams, who never ever had an issue, regardless of mileage or condition. Would going to new OEM springs eliminate any issues? Sure...but man if you're going to go with new springs (at the cost) I'd suggest just getting aftermarket springs from a good company.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by boniomario

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of how they want to build their car ... Putting in valve springs and retainers with a good set of cams ensures that the valves close on the proximate timing because the OEM valve springs do not have the spring rate as the aftermarket springs do ... BC are not known for their quality but what OP is aiming for is 400 BHP benchmark and that is plenty for that

I'm still going to respectfully disagree

Without a doubt putting in new stuff will not hurt anything on paper...I mean we are dealing with (essentially) junkyard engines once most of us get them. However in the same regard, just throwing any old parts at an engine is not to say that it will prevent harm/damage in actuality. Just installing big springs on an engine, that have not been RD'd, nor have any sort of meaning aside from a ton of seat pressure is just 'parts changing' if you ask me. Sure the bigger seat pressure will work (again on paper) but there is certainly a point where you can have too much, and to tight of a spring...that causes bad VooDoo in the valvetrain, and breaks stuff.

400 whp has been achieved on countless cars on stock valvetrains (minus cams) forever now...reliably at that. Gotta remember these engines are new to you and I, but were OEM 15-20 years ago to Japanese and European tuners...and lets also not forget how many Front wheel drive turbo owners existed before many of this forums current users even knew what a 240sx was.

Originally Posted by boniomario

OP can go out and buy the tomei valve spring set and spend a lot more money but since BC has worked for myself and many others that I know who run the same setup as I do, it is only wise for me to post what I know and have seen

Again I don't think you understand me when I say and know that there is a huge difference between 'works' and 'works properly/reliable/right'. When we're throwing nitrous at our dyno day cars and not blowing them up, you'll never here me say 'oh look anyone can do this now' as that can not be furhter from the truth.

To me, it's not worth the risk on skimping out at the last moment, or even spending money when you do not need too. Stock valvetrain failures? When...it's been a long time since seeing an SR20 have a spring break. BC stuff....well.....

Originally Posted by boniomario

.. In my personal opinion I think JWT cams are junk and I think canned tunes are the worst thing a person can ever do to their car but I've never discredited you when you mention they're the best

Ok, so you've made your point, now back them up.

1. How are the cams junk? Odd how JWT cams have time and time again made the best power, and broadest power band. How is it that JWT also designsmakes the cams for most of the Nissan Factory efforts? I mean...a company that actually designs something, and actually tests them...you're calling junk? I'd love to know how or why. Companies like JWT wouldn't exist for as long as they have, wouldn't be used across a variety of engines like they have, and wouldn't be referenced by Nissan race teams if they had junk cams...or parts.

2. Canned tunes. Enthalpy and JWT have been sending ROM tunes out for over a decade now both. Can you point me to instances where either of their tunes has specifically blown up a car? Maybe a few (they are not perfect) but that's over THOUSANDS of cars. Sure we can find many examples of a car 'not running right' with them, but 9.7/10 times those same cars that have 'bad tunes' often are plauged with other issues, that the tuned ECU only mulitplies.

As above, I'll never argue that a a rom tune from JWT or Enthalpy is better than a dyno/properly tuned car...a GOOD tuner with the RIGHT software and EXPERIENCE will always create a better experience/car. The thing is, just because someone CAN tune a car, does not mean they KNOW how to tune a car...and all it takes is this thread alone to show you countless 'tuned' cars that don't come close to the results that my car, or others that have similar setups to mine.

My car is not magical, it's built with good stuff, and the right parts, and on IMO a tune that is super safe (I've got more track miles then some have street miles) and it oddly has been one of the highest producing, most reliable, and referenced 2871r car for quite some time now...and there is a reason for that.

Is it 'beatable'? Sure...in fact there are guys who have made more power than I have. There are guys who have been around as long as I have too...so I'm not naive to the other methods. Thing is, all of the examples surpassing mine...(which I can count on half a hand) are COMPETENT tuners, who also have similar parts (or other awesome setups). Could I fine tune mine? Sure...I know things I'd like to change to really get the last 1/10th out of it all, but in the same regard, I'm not that interested. It's fun, it's fast, it doesn't have issues...why change it up?!

325-350whp on a typical street car setup is fine...and you can cut corners there...but if you want a true SR setup that makes 400whp, that is as reliable as it came from the dealer (well the engine, can drive to Montana, or drive at Limerock...then you need to spend money where it counts, and to spend it with a reason...not just parts changing and believing what the box says.

So in the end we may just need to agree to disagree. With that in mind, I'll gladly go out for beers with ya too anytime you're in the area. I do like Wild Ales though

[boniomario]

Originally Posted by codyace

I'm still going to respectfully disagree

Without a doubt putting in new stuff will not hurt anything on paper...I mean we are dealing with (essentially) junkyard engines once most of us get them. However in the same regard, just throwing any old parts at an engine is not to say that it will prevent harm/damage in actuality. Just installing big springs on an engine, that have not been RD'd, nor have any sort of meaning aside from a ton of seat pressure is just 'parts changing' if you ask me. Sure the bigger seat pressure will work (again on paper) but there is certainly a point where you can have too much, and to tight of a spring...that causes bad VooDoo in the valvetrain, and breaks stuff.

400 whp has been achieved on countless cars on stock valvetrains (minus cams) forever now...reliably at that. Gotta remember these engines are new to you and I, but were OEM 15-20 years ago to Japanese and European tuners...and lets also not forget how many Front wheel drive turbo owners existed before many of this forums current users even knew what a 240sx was.

I have to respectfully agree with you on that !

Originally Posted by codyace

Again I don't think you understand me when I say and know that there is a huge difference between 'works' and 'works properly/reliable/right'. When we're throwing nitrous at our dyno day cars and not blowing them up, you'll never here me say 'oh look anyone can do this now' as that can not be furhter from the truth.

To me, it's not worth the risk on skimping out at the last moment, or even spending money when you do not need too. Stock valvetrain failures? When...it's been a long time since seeing an SR20 have a spring break. BC stuff....well.....

I have seen a couple of SR owners drop in cams that require an upgrade and not do so end up with tons and tons of blow by and eventually more failures down the road just because they didn't want to upgrade their vavletrain ... By no means am I backing up BC, I've heard numerous horror stories about them and I've never liked backing up a manufacturer or advertising for them unless I'm getting paid

Originally Posted by codyace

Ok, so you've made your point, now back them up.

1. How are the cams junk? Odd how JWT cams have time and time again made the best power, and broadest power band. How is it that JWT also designsmakes the cams for most of the Nissan Factory efforts? I mean...a company that actually designs something, and actually tests them...you're calling junk? I'd love to know how or why. Companies like JWT wouldn't exist for as long as they have, wouldn't be used across a variety of engines like they have, and wouldn't be referenced by Nissan race teams if they had junk cams...or parts.

I should have used better wording instead of calling them junk, in my case they did not work for me, I had to JWT S3 cams and it gave me so much headache that I finally called it quits, what works for some may not work for others and since my experience with them was bad it was not right for me to outright call them junk but to me I would never use them again

Originally Posted by codyace

2. Canned tunes. Enthalpy and JWT have been sending ROM tunes out for over a decade now both. Can you point me to instances where either of their tunes has specifically blown up a car? Maybe a few (they are not perfect) but that's over THOUSANDS of cars. Sure we can find many examples of a car 'not running right' with them, but 9.7/10 times those same cars that have 'bad tunes' often are plauged with other issues, that the tuned ECU only mulitplies.

As above, I'll never argue that a a rom tune from JWT or Enthalpy is better than a dyno/properly tuned car...a GOOD tuner with the RIGHT software and EXPERIENCE will always create a better experience/car. The thing is, just because someone CAN tune a car, does not mean they KNOW how to tune a car...and all it takes is this thread alone to show you countless 'tuned' cars that don't come close to the results that my car, or others that have similar setups to mine.

This portion is only coming from my mechanical engineering side, the only reason why I completely disagree with those types of tuning other than dyno is due to the fact that every single engine in different, it's like the human DNA we are 99.99% alike in our structure yet so different, and that's how I view engines from an engineering perspective ... one treatment may not work for the same engine and that is why it is very important to have that engine inspected and analyzed by the tuner or builder to know what exactly it needs, from timing down to the air fuel ratio ... A person can go on webmd and type in their symptoms and in most cases will find a diagnosis to their problem if it's small and insignificant but if you're having heart problems you're not going to be going to webmd ... and again as an engineer the engine is the heart and to keep that running in optimal conditions I stay away from can tunes ... You also did mention that dyno was the best so I'm not arguing with you just showing you my perspective of how I feel towards them

Originally Posted by codyace

My car is not magical, it's built with good stuff, and the right parts, and on IMO a tune that is super safe (I've got more track miles then some have street miles) and it oddly has been one of the highest producing, most reliable, and referenced 2871r car for quite some time now...and there is a reason for that.

Is it 'beatable'? Sure...in fact there are guys who have made more power than I have. There are guys who have been around as long as I have too...so I'm not naive to the other methods. Thing is, all of the examples surpassing mine...(which I can count on half a hand) are COMPETENT tuners, who also have similar parts (or other awesome setups). Could I fine tune mine? Sure...I know things I'd like to change to really get the last 1/10th out of it all, but in the same regard, I'm not that interested. It's fun, it's fast, it doesn't have issues...why change it up?!

You're car is not magical? GTFO ... you're car is one of the nicest and most reliable I have seen on here, and that's why I've never said anything about anything in any of your previous threads because you have found a way to make all those things work for you which takes talent ... of course it is beatable so is anyone else's car

You are also right when it comes to why change it, if you're happy with you're setup than that is completely perfect to you, however we also gotta remember that some people prefer more power out of their setup, and with the SR no matter how much $$$ I had in my life I would never want to surpass 400 HP with it, IMHO you're asking for a lot of failure and trouble after that point, and again it has proven to hit 400+ but at what cost ???

Originally Posted by codyace

325-350whp on a typical street car setup is fine...and you can cut corners there...but if you want a true SR setup that makes 400whp, that is as reliable as it came from the dealer (well the engine, can drive to Montana, or drive at Limerock...then you need to spend money where it counts, and to spend it with a reason...not just parts changing and believing what the box says.

Couldn't agree with you more

Originally Posted by codyace

So in the end we may just need to agree to disagree. With that in mind, I'll gladly go out for beers with ya too anytime you're in the area. I do like Wild Ales though

You have to give me a minute to recover from that

I like it when people are able to talk engines and tuning in a respectful manner instead of using bashing techniques ... I will definitely look you up when I'm in the east coast to grab a drink and please do the same when you're in TX feed you some good meat LOL

[MrChow]

FINALLY I finished reading this whole freaking thread after 2 weeks. Lol I don't spent a lot of time read much! I love this thread so much I've learn sooo much it isn't even funny. =D
I kinda of wished I read this thread before I bought this car. I was a noob to turbo's and motor and I still am. All I know is suspension and driving. It's helped me win my class in autox last season!
Anyways this is what I bought.

SR Blacktop no VVT
HKS Step 1 Cams
Greddy intake manifold
HKS head gasket
CP pistons 9:9 cpr
Carrilo pro rods
Acl race ser rod & main bearings
Micro polshed std crank
Fake HKS ssqv bov Greddy (need to replace it...)
Garret GT2871R .64a/r ball bearing turbo with exhaust upgrade from Garret trim .64 a/r 52 / 76 with a larger exhaust housing With water cooling kit (I think I said that right..)
Denso 3 bar map
Peak performance tubular manifold
Sard 850cc Injectors
PFC EMS
And all the other supporting mods

Here's my lil story. Sorry for my english if it sounds wrong.

I have a dyno pic of this making 422 whp @ 22 psi with water/meth kit and had HKS step 2 cam. This setup was running rich. So I wanted a retune since I was making like 12 mpg which was a no go. A few weeks ago one of my friend thought it'd he knew what he was doing when it was going through my FC and reset my FC so I lost my tune. The tune was locked before hand so I couldn't save it and the guy I got it from said he can't get the tune bad since the guy that tuned it went bad to Japan so I was FUC---!
Currently I just barely got it running with the help of Steve and his base maps. We're having a small problem with the INJ map since PFC is designed to work up to 740cc and 850cc is a lot bigger. I was have weird ass idea issue and power. If anyone has some basic INJ maps that are using Sard 850cc I could use your help!!! I really don't want to trailer or tow the car all way down to LA.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to stock Exhaust MF and send it to ace for the all of that stuff. So I can get some quicker spoils and not have worry about shit breaking.

I'm pretty sure I also left out a lot of info about the car and the other reason of post this. It's 4:30am and I'm BORED out of my mind now since I've finished reading this thread and I don't wanna read anymore. LOL.

[240ss]

question: how are you guys using the hks wastegate actuator on this turbo? Doesn't the arm need to have that bend in it?

[4-20sx]

Yep had my hks actuator bent to fit it correctly

[tabasco122]

i believe you need the wastegate bracket for an s14/15 turbo for it to work correctly. when i got my hks wastegate, ken sent me the s14 one so hopefully it works when i get my turbo in.

[4-20sx]

I actually used the bracket off my 2871r and had the hks bent

[240ss]

hey tabasco will you let me know how that works out for you? I think i need a new one and dont want to drop 80 on the same one when i can get the hks one for 120.

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

Are that many guise really having issues with the oem actuator? Mine holds fine and no spiking at 19psi

[tabasco122]

sure thing, should be ordering before the end of the month

[codyace]

Originally Posted by HIGHFIVEBETA

Are that many guise really having issues with the oem actuator? Mine holds fine and no spiking at 19psi

Yea I had nothing but issues with ALL of the actuators, and using two different boost controllers. Sometimes it would hold great, others times it wouldn't. On track especially it seemed the hotter it got, the worse they'd become. Eventually they'd get all sorts of funky.

That's the main reason I went external wastegate (as well as now sell them) for guys looking for a no worry/hassle free setup.

[badbob2121]

I haven't had any issues with my HKS actuator and Greddy Profec B Controller (@18.5psi)

but i will also be changing to external shortly, its undeniably more efficient, just as codyace has stated.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

I have finally read this whole thread in 2 days... apparently hks actuator is useless, I've already got my tomei expreme manifold, is it possible/should i get an external flange welded on? do i need clocking plates for bottom mounting the 2871 [.64] to my s13 redtop? also Im pretty set on JWT S3 cams after seeing all the good talk about them in this thread, can someone post a link/pm me a link where to buy them? i can't find them.