Fully built sr20det keeps overboosting

[inopsey]

cant see your wastegate in those pics

[240boosted]

So it’s the tial wastegate hard take a picture of it but I have the lower and upper air port use and the other air port at the top middle should I leave that and the other air ports open?
https://ibb.co/XJQ59WM

[jr_ss]

So, you have an air ran to a single port on the gate?

What model Tial? MVR?

ONE port on the gate, not two..

[240boosted]

Yes it’s a 44 mm tial mvr

[240boosted]

So question also since I have greddy I take manifold do I need cap both I capped one
https://ibb.co/jZCR0DC

Also here my wastegate when I was building it
https://ibb.co/Qdmbd6c

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 240boosted

So question also since I have greddy I take manifold do I need cap both I capped one
https://ibb.co/jZCR0DC

Also here my wastegate when I was building it
https://ibb.co/Qdmbd6c

Photos aren?t working

[240boosted]

They not showing up when I click them they show

[240boosted]

They should be in the middle there working just small

[jr_ss]

Again, feed only the lower port. Supplying top and bottom side ports equalizes pressure on the diaphragm, resulting in the gate not opening.

[240boosted]

Yes I did it only to the bottom port I going to try a few more things once I get my car back like s14 waterbuck and check all fittings again I report back when I got them all done

[nick_d_240sx]

At this point I'd suggest removing the gate and checking it's operation with a hand pump or air compressor set on ~15 psi.

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by nick_d_240sx

At this point I'd suggest removing the gate and checking it's operation with a hand pump or air compressor set on ~15 psi.

I know it opened up I heard it when it was on dyno but ya I check when it cracks and fully opens up

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by 240boosted

I know it opened up I heard it when it was on dyno but ya I check when it cracks and fully opens up

At this point just swap it for a known good one or a new one.... I think that would be easiest. You can't be sure the diaphrams is bad either

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by slider2828

At this point just swap it for a known good one or a new one.... I think that would be easiest. You can't be sure the diaphrams is bad either

It was brand new I changed the spring so i know the diaphragm is not pinched or anything but I take it off and see when it cracks with air to it

[slider2828]

Also make sure that pressure line isn't cracked or leaking or pinched between your pressure pipe and your wastegate when you eliminate your solenoid.

[240boosted]

Thank you guys for all the help really. I am using Quick Push Tubing for all my fittings. i going to rest the system again

[240boosted]

these on the throttle body i just saw were open the left middle plugged and right side are open isnt the middle to charcoal canister


https://freeimage.host/i/HYgkj4I

[tunermt]

I?ve tuned a few sr?s over the years running the mazworx manifold and with a high flowing head there can be some boost creep issues while trying to target low boost with an efficient turbo. With your setup you will likely see the boost creep 3-4psi above 1 bar spring pressure.
As everyone has suggested, test/run the car at wastegate spring (no boost solenoid plumbed in) until you can get boost under control. Then once you know you have a functional wastegate it is easy to plumb the boost solenoid back in and tune accordingly.

Originally Posted by 240boosted

Thank you guys for all the help really. I am using Quick Push Tubing for all my fittings. i going to rest the system again

These lines/fittings are great but be very very careful of melting the lines. Super easy to heat damage those lines running to the wastegate. Even a small leak in wastage plumbing will prevent the wastegate from opening correctly.
**I just tuned a R34 gtr that melted these lines on the dyno even though they were well insulated there is so much heat they ended up melting together.
On a budget use a quality silicone line, best option AN4 line and no matter what you use be sure to insulate and completely isolate (free floating) not testing on any hit exhaust/engine parts.

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by tunermt

I?ve tuned a few sr?s over the years running the mazworx manifold and with a high flowing head there can be some boost creep issues while trying to target low boost with an efficient turbo. With your setup you will likely see the boost creep 3-4psi above 1 bar spring pressure.
As everyone has suggested, test/run the car at wastegate spring (no boost solenoid plumbed in) until you can get boost under control. Then once you know you have a functional wastegate it is easy to plumb the boost solenoid back in and tune accordingly.



These lines/fittings are great but be very very careful of melting the lines. Super easy to heat damage those lines running to the wastegate. Even a small leak in wastage plumbing will prevent the wastegate from opening correctly.
**I just tuned a R34 gtr that melted these lines on the dyno even though they were well insulated there is so much heat they ended up melting together.
On a budget use a quality silicone line, best option AN4 line and no matter what you use be sure to insulate and completely isolate (free floating) not testing on any hit exhaust/engine parts.

Thank you looking at everything again now I hope my parts come this week so
I can test

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by 240boosted

It was brand new I changed the spring so i know the diaphragm is not pinched or anything but I take it off and see when it cracks with air to it

if you changed out the spring on the wastegate i would double check that first. i remember with my 38mm msv the springs were tricky to install properly since multiple springs were needed for 1 bar psi base pressure

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by inopsey

if you changed out the spring on the wastegate i would double check that first. i remember with my 38mm msv the springs were tricky to install properly since multiple springs were needed for 1 bar psi base pressure

I going to change the spring now to 10 or 11 pound spring tonight and next week I be able to test

[240boosted]

Car is now fixed thank you guys so I made 498hp next question he says on e85 I getting spark blow out should I try ngk BKR8e

[slider2828]

Wow took for ever..... so it was just spark blow out? What coils and plugs you using?

Doesn't make sense it was overboosting.

[240boosted]

Sorry no the issue was the routing of the boost controller and I changed it to another haltech one and routed it like told and the problem went away. Now the issue is spark blowout according to my tuner I check the plugs and report back I think bkr7e

[slider2828]

Awww so it was kind user error..... but spark blow out, simply just update to R35 coils from rockauto using hitachis and there is a whole thread on how to do it.

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Awww so it was kind user error..... but spark blow out, simply just update to R35 coils from rockauto using hitachis and there is a whole thread on how to do it.

Yes do you think p2m coil I have brand new would be good enough need figure out why I only at 13.2 volts with car running I think that an issue

[240boosted]

Ok I looked this morning and I did use bkr8eix plugs will look. For issues low voltage

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 240boosted

Ok I looked this morning and I did use bkr8eix plugs will look. For issues low voltage

8?s are too cold for your setup. 7?s for anything under 5-600hp.

Also, what is the gap?

[240boosted]

It’s on e85 made 500 hp he had it gal .019 I trying figure out why 13.2 when running once I figure that out I guess next is coil upgrade the I guess my new p2m not good enough so I will look at R35 coils, haltech IGN1 coils or AM IGN1 smart coils.

[240boosted]

Ok so I grounded the alternator to chassis and now 14.2 volts it should be good now thank you all for the help!!