Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by w33dnhit

ohhh can it be thats why my turbo isnt giving out any boost or anything ?? my turbo is like totally dead ...

That's possible. Here's the S14 vacuum diagram, the orange lines are where it connected when I did a FMIC. Sorry I don't have an S13 handy.

Another thing if you're not building any boost at all is that the actuator arm may have popped off the flap. It's held on with a tiny c-clip that can rust off.

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by w33dnhit

Bonus question: are your s13 brake pedal very, very hard once the engine is turned off? If not, do i have leakage in the brake booster ?

THANKS A TON for any replies !!!!!

There should be a check valve somewhere in the line between the engine manifold and the brake booster. The check valve is intended to hold enough vacuum for at least one power assisted brake application in case the engine dies while the vehicle is moving.

[w33dnhit]

Originally Posted by dbeiler

There should be a check valve somewhere in the line between the engine manifold and the brake booster. The check valve is intended to hold enough vacuum for at least one power assisted brake application in case the engine dies while the vehicle is moving.

Isee, i will give it a try now. Well, i dont even have that xtra last brake after engine is turned off :/ damn......

Thanks you so much anyway for reply !!

[w33dnhit]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

That's possible. Here's the S14 vacuum diagram, the orange lines are where it connected when I did a FMIC. Sorry I don't have an S13 handy.

Another thing if you're not building any boost at all is that the actuator arm may have popped off the flap. It's held on with a tiny c-clip that can rust off.

ahhhhh niceee thanks man appreciated !

I will check the actuator arm too. damn dem rust lol

[JrDarknes]

What type of grease is this being used for the plastic gears? Trying to add some more of it to my intake door actuator so I can prevent the gears from going bad on this one.

[slideyboiz240]

Hello, I am swapping a 2jzgtevvti into an s13, using a collins adapter plate and a ACT clutch. I read somewhere (and cannot find that source again) that the input shaft needed to be cut 1/4 of an inch in order to not bottom out on the crank. After beveling a small amount off the input shaft and attempting to mate the engine and trans, the bellhousing is roughly 1/2 inch away from being flush with the engine. My concern is if I cut more off the input shaft, I could cut too small and if I dont cut more and tighten it up with the bellhousing bolts, it could mess up my crank.

Any suggestions or input?

[BiG MiKE86]

Hey guys I?ve been doing some searching on power steering fluid. I?ve got an S13 with a 2JZ in it and recently had my rack rebuilt by a local shop. They told me that I can?t run ATF in the rack or it would ruin the seals. Based on everything else I?ve found the 2JZ and OEM S13 rack used ATF. Opinions?

Right now it?s basically got a Mix of ATF and PS fluid because the remaining ATF wasn?t flushed. Pump is quiet and rack feels great. Wondering if I should flush and fill with either one?

[BiG MiKE86]

Double Post

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

They told me that I can?t run ATF in the rack or it would ruin the seals.

If they told you what you couldn't run, did they let you know what you COULD?


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[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

If they told you what you couldn't run, did they let you know what you COULD?


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They said power steering fluid


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[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

They said power steering fluid


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They're both hydraulic fluid. Dexron III is ancient and there's no way their seals shouldn't take it. It's the OE fill, if they say you can't use the OE fill I'd tell them give me my money, I paid for a working rebuilt part, not a joke.

You could use honda compatable PS fluid if you want to try to follow their dumb advice, it's supposedly vaguely better than the "brown stuff".

It's fun to fill everything with tractor fluid, with wimps watching.

[Standard]

All Toyota's and Nissan's used atf for the p/s aside from a few late model electric pump applications. I'd say go with what the factory suggests!

[BiG MiKE86]

Thanks guys I?m going to flush and fill with ATF this weekend. I did start to hear a faint whine from the pump that has me worried


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[brokeboi01]

Anyone know how I can get these pads unstuck? The piston is compressed down. Ebrake is off...



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[brokeboi01]

Update on the brake issue, pulled the caliper apart and the piston is literally stuck, bled it and still won?t budge.


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[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

Update on the brake issue, pulled the caliper apart and the piston is literally stuck, bled it and still won?t budge.


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Sounds like a seized caliper. Replace it


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[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

Anyone know how I can get these pads unstuck? The piston is compressed down. Ebrake is off...



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Why did you stomp the pedal with no rotor?

Get the pads out, remove the piston, then you'll be able to see what you need to do to get it back in.

you can have the brake off, but it's not, you need to turn the rear pistons.

[Das_Haifisch]

Bought a manual transmission, fluid is leaking out of this hole on the rear passenger side. Can anyone help me identify what its for / what i should plug into it? Can't find anything about it in the FSM.

https://imgur.com/a/0w7fc4K

FOUND IT: It was a speed sensor!

[brokeboi01]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Why did you stomp the pedal with no rotor?

Get the pads out, remove the piston, then you'll be able to see what you need to do to get it back in.

you can have the brake off, but it's not, you need to turn the rear pistons.

So just to be clear, the piston is rotational and not just a straight up push out? I figured wedging something in between the caliper and piston and just pushing it back into place.

[Ghostlive17]

so i've decided to take my rear out of my 96 240 and change the oem bushing to polyurethane. In my journey of removing them i ended up cutting the last sleeve where the bushing sits on. i completely removed it and is in no use anymore. the reason i wanted to switch the bushing was due to wear and i dont want to go solid. i looked through here and on google and found nothing on the part i need. the sleeves that were cut out were the ones that sit furthest from the dif NOT the ones that hold the dif. can someone guide me to where i can get these sleeves ? because the bushing slip right in and that is a problem. Thanks in advance

[dorkidori_s13]

GK Tech makes the bushings you need... but, forewarning you, get used to rear end clunk.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

So just to be clear, the piston is rotational and not just a straight up push out? I figured wedging something in between the caliper and piston and just pushing it back into place.

It screws down the parking brake actuator rod, or something to that effect. You need to get the pads out of the way, and there's recesses in the face of the piston for a tool - you don't need the tool, needlenose pliars work great, you just need the pads gone.

In normal braking, it doesn't rotate, I believe it's so the parking brake can self adjust.

You can probably turn or otherwise manipulate it from the other side, if you can't get the pads out, I totally forget how it's assembled. But if the caliper worked until that happened, it should be just fine, get seals if you feel the need and make sure to not score the bore or piston.

A loaded caliper is easy, but unless you take absolutely all day to fix it, it's probably not economical, and reman quality is often absolutely not what you want on your car, you're better off taking your original part that hasen't been fuckered by everyone and their dog, and fixing it right, if it's possible.

Reman means it got broken, used to the point that it no longer could be (at least once), someone who hated the car and part hacked it off, someone who hated the part and the buyer threw seals at it and hit it with krylon's cheapest offering, and someone who hates you and your car sold it to you, and will try to make it sound like it's your fault when their garbage is garbage.

[Quicky]

Hey everyone. I?m new, so hopefully this is the right thread.

Currently going over wheel fitment.
Will 18x9.5 +25 / 18x10.5 +18 fit?

Guessing I?ll need a spacer in the front.
97? 240 with kouki front. I have bbk, extended studs and coil overs aswell

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Quicky

Hey everyone. I?m new, so hopefully this is the right thread.

Currently going over wheel fitment.
Will 18x9.5 +25 / 18x10.5 +18 fit?

Guessing I?ll need a spacer in the front.
97? 240 with kouki front. I have bbk, extended studs and coil overs aswell

there is a whole wheel fitment thread as well, BUT

yes. this shit will fit, DEPENDING ON TIRE SIZE AND ALIGNMENT AND HOW MUCH FENDER WORK YOU DO.

plenty of people have run these sizes OR more aggressive sizes, but if you throw a 295 in front, it aint gonna fit. If you have 0* camber and unrolled/unpulled fenders, it aint gonna fit.

depending on what wheels and the spoke design, a +25 might not clear your calipers.

there are a fuckload of variables here to consider.

[Ghostlive17]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

GK Tech makes the bushings you need... but, forewarning you, get used to rear end clunk.

I have the bushings that I need, but what I don?t have is the sleeve that sits inside the actual rear because I used a sawzaw and cut it out completely. Basically that metal lip that sits inside the rear I cut it out by mistake and I need that for the actual bushing to sit snug/tight because at the moment the new bushings sit with ALOT of play. I don?t know where I can buy the metal sleeve so if someone can direct me to where i can buy them it would be helpful.

[brokeboi01]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

It screws down the parking brake actuator rod, or something to that effect. You need to get the pads out of the way, and there's recesses in the face of the piston for a tool - you don't need the tool, needlenose pliars work great, you just need the pads gone.

In normal braking, it doesn't rotate, I believe it's so the parking brake can self adjust.

You can probably turn or otherwise manipulate it from the other side, if you can't get the pads out, I totally forget how it's assembled. But if the caliper worked until that happened, it should be just fine, get seals if you feel the need and make sure to not score the bore or piston.

A loaded caliper is easy, but unless you take absolutely all day to fix it, it's probably not economical, and reman quality is often absolutely not what you want on your car, you're better off taking your original part that hasen't been fuckered by everyone and their dog, and fixing it right, if it's possible.

Reman means it got broken, used to the point that it no longer could be (at least once), someone who hated the car and part hacked it off, someone who hated the part and the buyer threw seals at it and hit it with krylon's cheapest offering, and someone who hates you and your car sold it to you, and will try to make it sound like it's your fault when their garbage is garbage.

Thanks for the rundown. Went at it last night with some pliers and everything?s good now [emoji106]


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[brndck]

Originally Posted by Ghostlive17

I have the bushings that I need, but what I don?t have is the sleeve that sits inside the actual rear because I used a sawzaw and cut it out completely. Basically that metal lip that sits inside the rear I cut it out by mistake and I need that for the actual bushing to sit snug/tight because at the moment the new bushings sit with ALOT of play. I don?t know where I can buy the metal sleeve so if someone can direct me to where i can buy them it would be helpful.

sell that subframe to someone who is going to install solid bushings

then

get another one and don't cut out the sleeve.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Ghostlive17

so i've decided to take my rear out of my 96 240 and change the oem bushing to polyurethane. In my journey of removing them i ended up cutting the last sleeve where the bushing sits on. i completely removed it and is in no use anymore. the reason i wanted to switch the bushing was due to wear and i dont want to go solid. i looked through here and on google and found nothing on the part i need. the sleeves that were cut out were the ones that sit furthest from the dif NOT the ones that hold the dif. can someone guide me to where i can get these sleeves ? because the bushing slip right in and that is a problem. Thanks in advance

Cutting out bushings is not okay, they sell those and monopolize the conversation on how to do bushings to make it sound impossible, so that people buy energy suspension as some sort of work-around. It's not - poly bushings are wrong for many applications, and it doesn't save you any time to individually dissect bushings.

I don't know how the s14 diff bushing is mounted, but most suspension bushings don't have a tube that the bushing goes into, just the sleeve that is actually part of the bushing.

Get a rubber bushing, it will come in the proper metal sleeve, and install it right, as long as you didn't remove any metal that was welded to the frame.

Presses are nice for gently installing the new parts, especially bearings and delicate stuff, but in removal, a ten pound hammer beats a 20 ton press, there's no reason to cut anything.

*edit* and when you go to install it, anti-seize on BOTH surfaces, fully covering them (it will squeeze it off and entirely remove it such that it doesn't help if you only get one surface, in interference fits), find a short piece of pipe (or a socket that's not very special) that fits that sleeve (you can also use the old part or a piece of it, if enough is left, as an installation driver) such that it doesn't put pressure on the rubber and rip it, and get to hammering, it'll slip right in.

[gio240sx]

need help locating the molding for the rear quarter windows on an s14 or if anyone has both rear quarter windows with the molding for sale pm me please. thanks.

[DJTTon]

I am looking for push-mount cable tie holders that would snap into a 5mm hole. The S14s use these mounts all over the place to hold the harnesses. Looking on amazon and around the web I havent been able to find ones for 5mm specifically and have found various products for 6mm+ holes.

Does anyone with experience have anything they used that fit the 5mm holes for cable tie holders?