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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 03-30-2006, 02:36 AM   #1
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Um.. No
The unique thing of S15 is the speed sensor is located at the rear differential, as the VVT need to go thru the ABS module (which require speed signal) in order to operate. nuff said...
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:34 AM   #2
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I got a reply from hybrid dynamics, it only made 460hp on pump gas in the real world your never gonna pay for that crazy race fuel on a dailly driver
from Jay:

The shortblock on that car was 100% original OEM Nissan, never torn apart. The head had a basic valve job and resurfacing done to it. That is all.
There was no portwork at all done to it. It had a cometic metal headgasket,
ARP headstuds, hks valve springs, HKS step 2 cams and greddy rocker arm
stoppers. That was the only things done to the engine. Like I said though,
the bottom end was 100% original, and honestly, wasn't even in the best of
shape. We've seen cleaner engines than this one was.

It had around 460 hp on pump gas at 18 PSI, and then the 570 was done on
VP114 race fuel.

Here is a picture of the motor in the car. You can see how clean the head
is from when we had the valve job and resurfacing done, and how filthy the
block still is.

http://www.hybridynamics.com/uploaded/2/IMG_1296.JPG

thanks!

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Old 04-11-2006, 08:40 AM   #3
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SR install tip

Hey I finally dropped the sr20 in this weekend. What a B!+@H. The engine droped just fine into the engine bay no sweat. It took maybe 5min. But, I was an 2 inches off on both motor mounts. The engine would just not go back far enough. So here is what I ended up doing. I went on

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/installs/240sr/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/howto/3430/
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp#prepengine
I even got this issue of "Drifting" which was the best!

Anyway they give you the steps about moving the heater hoses from going to the drivers side and point the to the passenger side. You have to do this BEFORE you drop the engine. Because like I said its tight! Well those hoses did not give enough room to push the motor back. So, here is my tip. You have to hoses. #1 hose is an "L" shape that you turn 180 deg. The #2 hose is connected to a hard line that run along the back of the head. Everyone says to arrange the hose so it is on the hard line and going back to the passenger side. But, that hard line is in the way of the head moving far enough into the firewall. So I cut the hard line right at the back of the head. So now on my block I have 2 hard lines coming out at the same length and the are both only a couple of inches from the heater hose outlet from the firewall.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:11 AM   #4
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OEM Nissan part numbers for redtop SR20det belts:

Alternator:
11720-52F00

Power Steering:
11720-59S01
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:38 PM   #5
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anyone have any literature or wiring diagrams for an s14 sr20det swap in an s14 chassis?

thanks
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:34 PM   #6
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im not sure if theres been a post about the TPS, but im gettting NO power at all out of the ECU to my TPS... i have no idea why ive traced everything back its all good. help plz
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:58 PM   #7
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R32 Skyline GTR rear diff are Nismo 2way lsd. R200 and direct drop in for 240sx. They run about 300 bucks online.
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:21 PM   #8
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s14 help me get pass the government!!

yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14 ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color ..HELP!!
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyaccord View Post
yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14 ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color ..HELP!!
Holy f*%k balls!! this guy is bad a#$!! i refrain from posting, but after reading that, cant hold back anymore. THIS THREAD IS FAQ!!!!!!!!! NO MORE QUESTIONS!!!! INFO ONLY!!!! Mother of troy!

On the onther hand, for trouble shooting:
-If sr runs like crap after 5lbs of boost, more than likely you have serious boost leakage. Timing being too retarded, misfires but not as frequent as leaking boost. too advanced and you will expirience detonation and top end feels like crap.
-if you have a problem with sensors acting up, try using a one thats not fcuked up. if problwm still presist, then obviously its not the sensor.
-throttle body off of any sr will work, some harness are different on newer sr, so take the pig tail from engine harnes and color match/pin match.
-all o2 off srs (g20/sentra se-r/nx2000) are the same(I've used 300zx,se-r,and g20).(lost of stuff can be used off fwd sr) Working on finding starter that works possibly 01 frontier...
-maf from g20 and sentra se-r work on sr20det
-89 nissam maxima clutch works but suck
-turbo does not need a#* load of oil pressure.(Fcuk up seals if you do)
-no expirience=spending lost of money fixing fcuk -up(leave it to people who know thier xiet)
-And last but not least Nissan are NOT hondas! beware the mayham....
oh and if valves tap, check oil squirters above cams and make sure they are not clogged. have a nice day! if your a do your hwk!
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:47 PM   #10
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180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DP_Michelle G
180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.
112
no need to be so harsh
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:20 PM   #12
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hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #13
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Cool need help with which cams to use

hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD. i am switching out sr20det heads and i noticed that the cam numbers on my original motor are ba23rb and aa13kd. the other head that i am going to install has cam numbers ba39ub and aa291b. i need to know which ones are the better cams
please help asap
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Old 08-11-2006, 12:57 PM   #14
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Jeff, No offense but youre here to help, and no question is a stupid one no matter ho many times a newbie asks. I put my own SR20DET Blacktop in my Automatic Coupe S13 without the help of Fouroms and you. This is informationsl but you have the knowledge to share it with ebveryone. If youre sick of sharing then stop posting so many freaking posts. get a life n go help people for real money in the real world. Door Knob.
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Old 08-21-2006, 12:53 AM   #15
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is there anyway to make an s14 sr head work on a s13 sr block ? i have seen write ups on fresh alloy on different oil gallies in the front of the block (s14 block has an extra oil galley for VTC) that makes it impossible...could you run an oil feed line to the vtc to make it work kinda like mating a non-v-tech honda motor with a v-tech head?
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:41 AM   #16
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Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET

(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 94-98 180SX)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC

(Found on the 95-98 Silvia)
Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find.
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines.
The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 99+ Silvia)
Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector Size: 480cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top.
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often.

Hope it helps with the back and forth on engine specs
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:40 AM   #17
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Learned this the hard way.
For those of you that didn't know already,
SR fan shroud and clutch fan are different from KA fan shroud and clutch fan.
SR shroud is offset different.
SR clutch / fan is longer than KA setup.
KA fan won't work on SR as it will hit crank pulley
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:46 PM   #18
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This applies to all S cars; however, SR cars are more prone to wiring problems since most people do not know how to run wires.

How to diagnose faulty fuel pump wiring: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=108545

What a relay is: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showpost.php...9&postcount=20

Last edited by g6civcx; 09-09-2006 at 06:42 AM..
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:31 AM   #19
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The Part number for K&N oil filters for a S14 blacktop is Hp-1008

if you need any cross refrencing with Nissan part numbers to ones that auto parts places are familir with just let me know,
i can do all that stuff at work
thanks
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:05 AM   #20
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Telling SR20DETs apart visually:

S15 vs S14 Engines:
S15's have higher CC injectors, they are red.
S15's have a cast divider in the turbo elbow

S14 Kouki vs S14 Zenki
Kouki S14's have fins on the head. -thank you sblack13

S14 vs S13 Engines:
Look for the bulge on the front of the engine and the slant at the back of the valve cover.
Look at the intake manifolds, the S14's intake manifold has the throttle body higher - thank you sblack13

S13 Redtop vs S13 Blacktop
Color of the valve cover (obviously)
All blacktops have fins on the head
Blacktops have a fat O2 sensor

S13 Blacktop vs S13 Type-X Blacktop
Look for the J4 ECU on the Type-X, I don't know of any visual way between the engines though.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:30 AM   #21
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^kouki s14's do have fins

the zenki s14 sr20's have the older style maf plug with the metal clip, and some very few later model zenki s14 sr20's thru the s15's have the newer snap plug for the maf.

Also its easy to get the s13 sr20det and s14 sr20det maf messed up they are the same plug type the s13 maf should have the following number on the maf
NOTE: You cannot use a s14 maf on a s13 or vise versa they read different.

52F00 S13
69FO1 ZENKI
69FOO KOUKI

and same goes for turbos

they all will have that number engraved on the turbo indentifcation plate

the S15 i believe is "54F00"

Zenki SR20DET S14: Code "WC" ecu
Kouki SR20DET S14: Code "NA" ecu

and there is another way to tell the s15 and s14 motors apart. The coilpacks are different between the two.

The most obvious difference between the s13 and s14 sr20det would be the intake manifold.

Also.. if your running a 300zx maf this is what safc setting you run

S13 W/ Z32 = 2in 6out
S14 W/ Z32 = 2in 5out

Are you swapping a S14 SR20DET into your s13?
what you need to know
Pretty much everything bolts up as it should in a s13 sr20det swap.
Crossmember, Driveshaft, Motor mounts bolt up, of course duh.

But!!

you need to use your old s13 speed sensor from your manual tranny.
You need to use your old s13 coolant temp sensor if you want to see your water temp.

Thats pretty much it!! and for the s14 w/ s13 sr20det it should be the direct opposite.
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Old 09-22-2007, 05:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack13 View Post
^kouki s14's do have fins

the zenki s14 sr20's have the older style maf plug with the metal clip, and some very few later model zenki s14 sr20's thru the s15's have the newer snap plug for the maf.

Also its easy to get the s13 sr20det and s14 sr20det maf messed up they are the same plug type the s13 maf should have the following number on the maf
NOTE: You cannot use a s14 maf on a s13 or vise versa they read different.

52F00 S13
69FO1 ZENKI
69FOO KOUKI

and same goes for turbos

they all will have that number engraved on the turbo indentifcation plate

the S15 i believe is "54F00"

Zenki SR20DET S14: Code "WC" ecu
Kouki SR20DET S14: Code "NA" ecu

and there is another way to tell the s15 and s14 motors apart. The coilpacks are different between the two.

The most obvious difference between the s13 and s14 sr20det would be the intake manifold.

Also.. if your running a 300zx maf this is what safc setting you run

S13 W/ Z32 = 2in 6out
S14 W/ Z32 = 2in 5out

Are you swapping a S14 SR20DET into your s13?
what you need to know
Pretty much everything bolts up as it should in a s13 sr20det swap.
Crossmember, Driveshaft, Motor mounts bolt up, of course duh.

But!!

you need to use your old s13 speed sensor from your manual tranny.
You need to use your old s13 coolant temp sensor if you want to see your water temp.

Thats pretty much it!! and for the s14 w/ s13 sr20det it should be the direct opposite.

To add to this, i found a page on 240sx motoring that has the ECU part numbers that can tell you what engine/car combo your ecu is derived from....

http://www.240sxmotoring.com/partnumbers.html

Good luck to those who need the info, and are doing the swap ^_^
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:41 AM   #23
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actually i believe the kouki fins are vertical where as the s15 are horizontally faced. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
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Old 02-03-2007, 03:25 PM   #24
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I'd like to add something I came across a while ago and haven't seen in the FAQ, the 96-97 1.8L Suzuki Sidekick AWD Sport ignitors plug straight in to the harness and work. Part number is 33370-77E20. No ricer markup on them, as far as I've seen (I got one for $10 at a local junkyard)
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Old 05-19-2007, 05:31 PM   #25
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head bolt/stud removal order for sr20det and sr20de


f (Intake)
r 4__8__10__6__2
o 3__7__9___5__1
n (exhaust)
t
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:08 PM   #26
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o2 senser for SR20det Red top 92 300zx TT works not 87 turbo
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Old 06-20-2007, 01:09 AM   #27
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just had a strange problem. my stock t25 sr20det turbo blew. my guess is the seal went bad. the simptoms staeted when it whined a little bit, then progressed to start burning oil at idle once in a while. only idle. then just burnt oil at idle all the time. so i replased it and all better now. just thought this should be here if someone had the same problem as me.
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:37 PM   #28
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S14 SR20DET / S13 SR20DET power steering pulley's are different sizes.
So is the crank pulley where the power steering belt is mounted, be careful when ordering underdrive pulleys/belts etc etc.

For instance you cannot use

S13 SR Power steering pump w/ s13 pulley with S14 Crank Pulley
S14 SR Power Steering pump w/ s14 pulley with s13 crank pulley
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:41 PM   #29
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FYI: For you s13 blacktop owners
U.S nissan part number for the "fat" o2 is 22690-48P01 (95 300zx TT)
i havent actually started the car with it installed, but it threads in fine and plugs right up in the harness.
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Old 11-15-2007, 12:35 AM   #30
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ECU Codes

RED WC is from a 95-96 S14 Silvia Zenki
BLACK WC is from a 96-97 S14 Silvia Chuki (transition, different MAF plug)
NA is from a 97-98 s14 Silvia Kouki 5 speed

62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed
63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic

E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed
E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic

J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Kouki 5 speed
J5 is from a 97-98 180sx Kouki Automatic

Also:
S14 Zenki SR20 with Red WC ECU has a rectangle MAF plug
S14 Chuki SR20 with Black WC ECU has an oval MAF plug,
S14 Kouki SR20 with Black NA ECU has an oval MAF plug
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