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Old 01-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by boris13 View Post
How do I get rid of the egr stuff.?
Id first pull those two hoses off that EGR valve, plug the one closest to the manifold and run the one from the T to the intake tube. Then work from there and see if that helps.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:24 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by di-devol View Post
Take a pic of your whole engine bay so we can see how you even hooked it up, I didn't even know one could run a egr on an sr. Did the Sr come with that?
Ok and the egr came with it
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:28 AM   #33
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Yea get rid of the EGR stuff, Also are you running the stock rubber intake pipe? There should be two ends coming out of the intake pipe, one being for you to put a hose on the big round opening of that greddy BOV to the intake pipe [RECIRCULATING IT], then that hose you have from the T going to the EGR your going to take it off the EGR and connect that hose to the other input on the intake hose. I'll grab pics for you when I'm out of work later today also.

The boost gauge should be reading 20 in vac rather than 10. May be leaking somewhere, get a can of carb cleaner/starting fluid and spray it around hoses that air travel through, should have a change in idle if the fluid enters a leaky spot. You have your Idle air control valve hose connected to the intercooler cold pipe correct? Make sure those clamps are tight as well.

Also I'd watch out for that loom of wires near the exhaust manifold. And where do you have your turbo's wastegate vacuum line going from/to.

K I got the waist gate connected to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body n imma take more pics so u can see how all my pipes are set up along with vacuums n all
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:32 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Nicelyphe View Post
For diagram reference of the removal I found this. Hope it helps in some way for you to organize and determine what some of your lines are for and going to/from.

EGR Delete information - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

But I wouldn't really go with following this just yet..Do you have a carbon canister[black round cylindar thing kinda near drivers side headlight]? If not then thats a start.

Id first pull those two hoses off that EGR valve, plug the one closest to the manifold and run the one from the T to the intake tube. Then work from there and see if that helps.
K let me look into that guide thanks n yes I have the charcoal canister I'm about to take pictures of my engine bay
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:46 AM   #35
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K let me look into that guide thanks n yes I have the charcoal canister I'm about to take pictures of my engine bay

Disregard the guide, just took notice it was for N/A sr20's. The item your calling an EGR valve is actually an AIV valve, and yet again, is not needed.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #36
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^If it's the AIV, then is this connected to your turbo elbow? If it is you need to get a plug for that.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:52 AM   #37
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^If it's the AIV, then is this connected to your turbo elbow? If it is you need to get a plug for that.
a plug as in to cap it off??
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:01 PM   #38
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Gonna have to block off any flow of exhaust from that hole. You could get an aftermarket elbow, they only have the 02 sensor hole in them.

This is most likely how your setup looks currently. Stock elbow and the AIV

http://media.photobucket.com/image/S...Picture006.jpg

And heres an example of a aftermarket elbow with the aiv port pre-deleted.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silvia-S13-S...item45eb3ac104
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:19 PM   #39
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Gonna have to block off any flow of exhaust from that hole. You could get an aftermarket elbow, they only have the 02 sensor hole in them.

This is most likely how your setup looks currently. Stock elbow and the AIV

Sr20det turbo elbow image by jakesigue on Photobucket

And heres an example of a aftermarket elbow with the aiv port pre-deleted.

Silvia S13 S14 S15 SR20DET Turbo Elbow Outlet Dump Pipe | eBay
Ok yea heres the thing my steering wheel wont turn because of that pipe from the avi its rusted to shit so i dought ill be able to take it off
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #40
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Yea =\, gonna have to most likely pick up an aftermarket elbow. It's your best bet and then you dont have to worry about any modification. Install and your good.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #41
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This is whats causing my steering wheel not to turn


charcol canister?


what is this plug on the turbo??


engine bay pics it looks horibble but i just want to get it running









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Old 01-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #42
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the electrical tape is jus so i dont have a boost leak i dont think it worked tho..
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:14 PM   #43
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the bov should be recirculated. if you are using the nipple on the lower left of the throttle body you arent getting enough vaccum for the waste gate. the nipple on the turbo is a vaccum line.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:37 PM   #44
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Going to have to remove this and plug somehow, or get an aftermarket elbow.




That looks like an AC line, I cannot tell if its going into your intake pipe for any reason, or going under it. Blue lines are where a hose should be, one from BOV to intake pipe, one from T to Intake pipe. Remove AIV. And whats that hose running across the top of your valve cover?



Also this hose is going to you IACV, doesn't look to secure. Most likely a vacuum leak. I would clamp that down [on both ends if not], it also doesnt look to be on the intake tube very well, I'd get a longer hose and replace that one. Wheres that vacuum line going that on the bottom left of the throttle body? I believe that one is plugged on mine.

What is that white mess right there in between the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator? Right above the intake pipe I was just previously talking about. Looks like a bunch of teflon tape.


Electrical tape = no go on covering a boost leak from what I would think, if you think theres a leak there try tightening that clamp a bt more. I'm going to take some pictures of my bay sometime and then you can see a little better on some things. Yes that is a carbon canister, it could be deleted as well.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:05 PM   #45
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ok i just went to my 240 and i took that pipe that was restricting my steering wheel from turning and i cut it off with a grinder i plugged it up with this high temp silicone that my friend gave me he told me to use it on the gasket for the down pipe that connects to the turbo elbow but i used it to plug it up as well

he said to wait a full 24hrs before starting the car because it will get hot real quick and it will just melt off and will be no good

as for the hose running across the valve cover its my maf wires i didnt want them to get caught in the fan and mess up my wiring harness

the hose for the IACV i took off the old and rotted one and replaced it with a new good one and clamped it at both ends

the bottom left hose on the throttle body is connected to my waist gate idk if thats right i searched on here for a vacuum diagram and read that i can run it to my waist gate and it will be fine correct me if im wrong if so were does the waist gate vacuum go to??

the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)

as for the teflon tape its connected to my boost gauge i just wanted to make sure that i wasnt leaking any air through there so i get correct readings the way i had to plug it up was crazy the hose it came with just kept sliding out..

as for the hose that goes from the blow off valve to the intake pipe and that Ts of to the intake as well how would i go about doing that i have no nipples on my intake pipe:/
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:20 PM   #46
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I aslo found this I have no idea what it is its cut and not connected to anything
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #47
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Looks like a sender of some-sort, is that tapped into the turbo?? Also where did you get that intake pipe from? You able to source a stock intake pipe just for trial and error to figure out your issue in the mean time? It's dark over here at the moment but im going to attempt to grab some pictures haha.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #48
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"the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)"

The plugged line will never show a vacuum because it is tapped to the compressor. I would use it for the wastegate signal, that is, run it directly to the wastegate with No T's to anything else!

On the throttle body, there is a one vacuum port that does not show vacuum when the throttle body is closed. You can find it when you run the engine, it will not suck any air when the throttle body is closed. DO NOT connect this port to the fuel pressure regulator, or the blow-off valve. You CAN use it for a boost gauge, but it will not show vacuum during throttle closed position. It is designed for the emissions system.

Use a vacuum port that displays full-time vacuum, when the engine is running, it will be presenting a vacuum. Use ONE for the fuel pressure regulator AND bypass valve... and thats it! do not T it off to anything else or response will suffer.

High temp silicone will not stop that exhaust leak. You need to unscrew that rusty line, and stick a nickel under it, then re tighten. Buy an aftermarket elbow for the future but a coin will work for now.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:48 PM   #49
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Lol thanks I appriciate the help and yea it's tapped into the turbo I don't think it's the o2 sensor and the only intake piping I have is the one that's on the car right now and the stock Ka Sohc..

Not sure if it would work tho
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:55 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
"the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)"

The plugged line will never show a vacuum because it is tapped to the compressor. I would use it for the wastegate signal, that is, run it directly to the wastegate with No T's to anything else!

On the throttle body, there is a one vacuum port that does not show vacuum when the throttle body is closed. You can find it when you run the engine, it will not suck any air when the throttle body is closed. DO NOT connect this port to the fuel pressure regulator, or the blow-off valve. You CAN use it for a boost gauge, but it will not show vacuum during throttle closed position. It is designed for the emissions system.

Use a vacuum port that displays full-time vacuum, when the engine is running, it will be presenting a vacuum. Use ONE for the fuel pressure regulator AND bypass valve... and thats it! do not T it off to anything else or response will suffer.

High temp silicone will not stop that exhaust leak. You need to unscrew that rusty line, and stick a nickel under it, then re tighten. Buy an aftermarket elbow for the future but a coin will work for now.
The waist gate to the plugged turbo vac and I just cap the bottom left nipple in the throttle body?

And any advice to how to get it to turn loose with out stripping the bolt.?
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:09 PM   #51
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Yea cap the bottom left, I have a picture of that.

Kingtalon is saying run your wastegate off the compressor of the turbo, where that plugged line is with that bolt, just remove the vacuum line from that nipple and put a vacuum line from the wastegate to that nipple. My wastegate is connected to a nipple that I have installed in my intercooler piping, but that's just another method to the madness.

Here's some pics for you too take a look at.


My source for wastegate [disregard that clamp, working on that in a few haha.


Throttle body
- Left nipple is going to my Fuel pressure reg. and tee's off to my boost gauge.
- Right nipple is BOV ONLY


In this picture you can see the bottom left nipple capped.


Hose coming off tee then leading down to intake pipe. I've seen people just put breather filters on this end of the T. But I have no experience with that..



Here's the BOV recirculating setup with stock sr intake pipe.




Hope this helps you out a bit.
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:27 PM   #52
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dude thanks ALOT im going to do this set up tomorrow by any chance does ur BOV still blow off?? ive never seen a set up like urs i wish i could do it right now but im about to go to school :/ and could i just drill a hole in my intake pipe and run it from the BOV to it and buy a nipple or would i have to change it to a sr stock intake..

what kind of maf are you running on it the only thing that tripps me out is why does it throw out so much smoke when i drive it i know king talon you said its normal when first starting the motor but i mean it throws out white smoke excessively like in an over exaggerated amount ill take a video and show you how it runs would sea foaming it make a diffrence?

and it doesnt look like you have that same sensor thats on myne what turbo are you running?
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:56 PM   #53
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Not a problem. Yea you cold nipple your pipe and run the BOV to it, just got to get a big enough fitting cause the BOV hole is like 19mm or something around there. My BOV blows off every time with any issues. You don't exactly have to change it to stock intake pipe if you dont want to, just modify yours.

My MAFS is the actual SR mafs. I heard the KA MAFS works just the same.

My turbo is the stock t25 that s13 blacktop sr's are equip with from factory. No I do not have that sensor looking thing, I don't really have an idea of what that could be. All I can think of is maybe someone wanted to read exhaust temp readings or something of that sort at one time. It looks like its tapped into the exhaust side of the turbo.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:16 PM   #54
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Yea Well I'll try tomorrow to see what I can come up with so at stock boost the gauge should read -20 at idle?

And well hopefully this fixes everything and if it keeps smoking up bad I'll just sea foam it and put new spark plugs and check for any improvement I mean my vacuums will be right so i dont think it should anything should go wrong unless its fuel related but then again i could still have a boost leak some where ill make a boost leak tester as well I'll post an update when I fail miserably again :/
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:01 PM   #55
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Yea -20 at idle is good. Yea drive it for a bit and see if it clears up, hopefully nothing major. Also for your inter cooler couplers these things are a charm.

Tbolt Clamps 2.25 2.5 2.75 3.0 3.25 3.5 3.75 4.0 T BOLT | eBay

A lot better of a hold than regular hose clamps, and can be tightened down real nice with ease.


Keep us updated, it's a learning experience, for you, and others now that may run into the same issues in the future.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:55 AM   #56
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K dude once again thank you guys for all the help you don't know howuch it means to me I'm about to get home n run ur set up I'll update the progress so everyone can read this if their having any problems

As for those clamps I got them on every coupler and I re did all of them and tied them down till it couldn't go anymore hopefully it eliminates any boost leak through the piping ill post an update soon as I take her around the block again to see if it got better.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:36 PM   #57
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K i found a hole in the intake pipe can I run a vac hose from the bottom nipple of the blow off valve to the intake and have it recirculated.? Or does it have to be from the front big hole the hole I found is small enough for the vacuum hose..
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:39 PM   #58
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Big hole, that's where the air releases from the BOV which in when it working order it recycles the air back into the intake and into the turbo. Its not completely neccessary to recirculate, just helps with response, and idle and such. Id plug that small hole you found though. Also maybe in the future fabricate something up so you can recirculate that BOV sometime.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:44 PM   #59
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K well I found it but it was already plugged up I guess so i can unplugg it and put something in it but I'll just leave it plugged up I don't have to put a vacuum to the bottom nipple right?
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:47 PM   #60
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Correct, as far as I know a line doesnt go to that bottom nipple on greddy BOV's. Any progress with re routing the wastegate and the BOV and such? Try and get it started?
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