the wire tuck pic thread

[lflkajfj12123]

any sheet metal will do and mix the bondo thoroughly

[godrifttoday]

If u do my method u use no bondo- actually it's called body filler not bondo. If u want a shave look then use some 18 gauge steel even thinner 20 gauge but it's up to u. Then weld it, but don't weld continuously, if u do u will warp the metal. From my experience do spot welds then shave them off as best as possible then apply body filler the less the better

[godrifttoday]

Jeff do u soder each connection? Or crimp? I know oem crimps all connections if not mistaken

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Jeff do u soder each connection? Or crimp? I know oem crimps all connections if not mistaken

That all depends on the cheapness of the person paying j/k

[anthonyr sil8ty]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

If u do my method u use no bondo- actually it's called body filler not bondo. If u want a shave look then use some 18 gauge steel even thinner 20 gauge but it's up to u. Then weld it, but don't weld continuously, if u do u will warp the metal. From my experience do spot welds then shave them off as best as possible then apply body filler the less the better

yea thats what i was trying to think of body filler, I heard its more durable than bondo???

[s13greasemonkey]

Yeah alot of people generally use to much body filler and it then it cracks, I layed down a thin amount of body filler and I used the correct portion of hardener.(Making a perfect mix each time.) I used 16 gauge because 18 is pretty thin and would warp easily. I tried using a 220V welder and even at the lowest heat setting I kept burning holes so I just ended up using a 120V welder and everything worked out fine.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

That all depends on the cheapness of the person paying j/k

lol, then call me cheap because i aint paying haha... i like to attempt thing first

i was looking throught the fsm on how the altenator works, do i need to connect the white/red plug which goes to the bulb check relay? or can i leave it unpluged? would i have charging issues?

Originally Posted by s13greasemonkey

Yeah alot of people generally use to much body filler and it then it cracks, I layed down a thin amount of body filler and I used the correct portion of hardener.(Making a perfect mix each time.) I used 16 gauge because 18 is pretty thin and would warp easily. I tried using a 220V welder and even at the lowest heat setting I kept burning holes so I just ended up using a 120V welder and everything worked out fine.

bondo is a brand body filler is what people refer to bondo

[Om1kron]

just check an engine bay thread on somewhere like nwp for life.

NWP4LIFE: ***Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ***

plenty of reference pictures, tips, and tricks there.

and here is the race car, fab work, wiring thread

NWP4LIFE: **Race car wiring,fab work, plumbing , motor, forced ind, nut riding**

tons of nutriding going on in both, as well as hating. Now we can divert the honda cuntism displayed by the witty comments here =)



ball so hard, even if it's a gay mustang.

[godrifttoday]

how much power? thing is a beast

[anthonyr sil8ty]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

ball so hard, even if it's a gay mustang.

camera needs to move to the left

[codyace]

Sorry, SLIGHT thread jack

Originally Posted by Om1kron

ball so hard, even if it's a gay mustang.

That's one of Frank's hot rods...



Wanna see what that thing does?

Originally Posted by anthonyr sil8ty

camera needs to move to the left

Not 100% sure it's the same girl, but I'd bet on it being Frank's GF. Frank is the owner of PSI SpeedSolutions...they do huge dollar 180-200mph trap speed stuff.

[90240sx07]

o damn those bodies are amazing
but got a question that a few of u should be able to answer
Question: For those of who that are redoing your wiring how did you or how are you gonna make that wiring work with the stock dash wiring and/or guages etc........

[codyace]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

For general wire splices/etc and especially for doing stuff inside the car, I use the same Radio Shack huge soldering guns that I've used for over 10yrs. I keep replacing them every 6 months or so under warranty lol.

THat really is a badass main harness solder system yeesh! That's a few steps lower than a welder

Intersting on that radio shack solder iron, as I was always under the impression that those larger gun style ones weren't 'as good' and was always looking at the pencil style. Good to know, as I'm gonna be looking into a newer one here soon, probably before spring.

[boyou2]

omagad ^^

[DoobieS13]

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by 90240sx07

o damn those bodies are amazing
but got a question that a few of u should be able to answer
Question: For those of who that are redoing your wiring how did you or how are you gonna make that wiring work with the stock dash wiring and/or guages etc........

I think If you are rewriting your car completely u won't use stock cluster.

[Broadfield]

I solder all day long during remote start season and a lot during the summer months for alarm installs. I also do a lot of repairs to circuit boards etc.... and this is what I use with GREAT results:

Edsyn - EDSYN 951SX - LONER Temperature Controlled Soldering Station



I have owned this particular model for 3 years now without a hiccup. Edsyn has around 20-30 tips that can be used with it: from very fine pencil tips to large tips for soldering heavy gauge stuff. I solder USA spec 4 gauge with no issues with this iron. When it comes to soldering irons you really do get what you pay for. I have around 5 different tip setups and that easily covers everything I throw at it. And really, I only use one 99% of the time.

[godrifttoday]

How fast would u say it heats up what u need to soder? Say 14 gauge ?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

How fast would u say it heats up what u need to soder? Say 14 gauge ?

30 seconds... it's fast for a non-trigger style iron.

[GSXRJJordan]

Cody we got MIG and TIG welders, and an oxy-acetylene torch for those REALLY stubborn wires haha.

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I solder all day long during remote start season and a lot during the summer months for alarm installs. I also do a lot of repairs to circuit boards etc.... and this is what I use with GREAT results:

Awesome do-everything iron, grip's too far back from the tip for SMC stuff though =P

Totally get what you pay for with irons though, a good setup will last longer than your hands/joints.

Originally Posted by 90240sx07

Question: For those of who that are redoing your wiring how did you or how are you gonna make that wiring work with the stock dash wiring and/or guages etc........

Easy to use stock gauges, diagram is in the FSM. Clip the 3 (or 4) plugs off the under-dash harness and rewire what you need.

[R33E8]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Excellent question.

The shield needs to be chassis grounded somewhere, either you pull out a ground at the engine connector end or at the bulkhead connector end. There's no need to blow a pin on a shield ground, since it doesn't do anything for you on the other end, although if you had to it's not the worst thing in the world.

Trickiest thing working with shielded wire in a bulkhead connector is the 'strands' of shield that are left when you strip back the shield to pin the primary wire(s)... you need to be very careful to trim and then heat shrink the shield so these strands don't fall and short your bulkhead connector's pins.

I had an intermittent stat sync error (crank signal problem) on Conrad Grunewald's LS7 last year that turned out to be a 1/8" long, almost microscopic shield strand that fell out of the heat shrink (I'd used non-adhesive shrink on that) and arc'd across the crank sensor's pins. Ridiculously hard to figure that out lol.

Eh, I donno.. At my job most customers want the shield to go through a contact or through the connector itself (captured within an EMI backshell).. If you only terminate one side through a bulkhead, then the other end will be open to interference.. The proper way to do it is with a solder sleeve.. This website is a pretty good example: A lesson in shielded wire « Matt's RV-7 Project

I would also recommend grounding the shield only at one end (preferable not the engine connector end) to prevent a ground loop situation.. If you have a bunch of shielded connections to make you can daisy chain the solder sleeves and run them to one crimp.. like so:

[90240sx07]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Cody we got MIG and TIG welders, and an oxy-acetylene torch for those REALLY stubborn wires haha.



Awesome do-everything iron, grip's too far back from the tip for SMC stuff though =P

Totally get what you pay for with irons though, a good setup will last longer than your hands/joints.



Easy to use stock gauges, diagram is in the FSM. Clip the 3 (or 4) plugs off the under-dash harness and rewire what you need.

k thats what i was thinking to do you happen to have any extra plugs for a 89 chassis

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by R33E8

Eh, I donno.. At my job most customers want the shield to go through a contact or through the connector itself (captured within an EMI backshell).. If you only terminate one side through a bulkhead, then the other end will be open to interference.. The proper way to do it is with a solder sleeve.. This website is a pretty good example: A lesson in shielded wire « Matt's RV-7 Project

This is where application matters... on a car, there's very little interference behind the firewall, and no interference if the other side is shielded and grounded as well (which is usually the case).

I would also recommend grounding the shield only at one end (preferable not the engine connector end) to prevent a ground loop situation.. If you have a bunch of shielded connections to make you can daisy chain the solder sleeves and run them to one crimp.. like so:

That part is true, but then again, application-specific stuff here: the engine is the absolute best ground in the entire car. The OEM's almost always ground the shields to the engine, not the chassis.

I dig the sleeves though. That would be perfect for daisy-chaining shields.

Originally Posted by 90240sx07

k thats what i was thinking to do you happen to have any extra plugs for a 89 chassis

Nope. Junkyard time for you!

[Matej]

Do you fellows use custom clutch lines? If so, what are some reputable online places where I could have one made?

I am running mine behind the firewall through the hood release cable opening and back out through the vent hole on the bottom of the passenger side. No aftermarket line is long enough, so I am actually using the stock rubber section as an add-on to my Agency Power or Circuit Sports or whatever line to make it longer. It works, but is probably unsafe and I would much rather have a one-piece line.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Matej

Do you fellows use custom clutch lines? If so, what are some reputable online places where I could have one made?

Yup, it's just -3an brake line. Any place that crimps brake lines can make one that'll hold a couple thousand psi.

If you absolutely have to make it yourself, there are some assembled/threaded -3an fittings for hydraulic lines, but I just pay Tom at Earl's Store 1 to crimp mine when I have 'em made.

[bb4_96]

finally multiple bus

http://www.swecheck.com.au/catalog/a92.pdf

[godrifttoday]

i been trying to get my car started but nothing, i get fuel, crank but no spark, injectors have 12 volts, the car started before i did not mess with the engine harness at all, all i did was make the new harness, but i get code 21... i been trying everything so far and nothing here the diagram i used to get the car started, any info would be great

[bb4_96]

Did you ground the coils harness to the rear of the head like the original harness? This will sound silly but also make sure your coils are getting juice. If you are running factory ignitor make sure the 5th(ground) wire is grounded properly.

-So 4 coilpack signal inputs into ignitor and one ground wire(thicker?/black/middle)
-Also the power for the coils runs past the ignitor(thick/blue&red)
-Then 4 ignitor outputs drive coils
-Ground on coilpack harness

If all that is straight you should be good. If you rotate the cas by hand very slowly with the ign on you can hear the injectors click, if they don't it could be ecu or cas wiring and not just spark.

[killer240]

for the guys who relocated their fuse box, what did you do with the amps?

[r33nota240]

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