The fabrication thread.

[D.Adams]

Fixed a bunk ass rb25 s14 swap. The shops that thought they could do it decided to cut the hood latch and light mounts off so i made new ones. Small shit but its still fun to do love using my dimple dies..

Hood latch mount


Light mounts


Mounted up


Also had to section out the code to get the radiator / fans to fit





Also some high angle knuckles i made for a friend in Washington

[ShadowMan]

You can look at my build to see exactly what I'm up to, but I'm looking for the measurement between the frame rails on my 1990 hatch. Before I cut into everything I measured as many different distances as I could, I just want to make sure what the correct measurement is.
Googling I came up with 1 post that says 31 1/4 inches. Not sure if this is right or not.
What I measured off my car before cutting and removing everything.
outsides=31 7/8 in (so I'm wider by about 5/8 in. This seems like alot to be off by to me but I'm an amatuer so maybe I'm wrong)
insides=27 3/4 in
The previous owner took this car to a shop that didn't align or measure a whole lot as the the whole radiator support/headlight unit was installed crooked. I would expect a little room for error but they were way off. the measurements from the center of the adjusment screw on the coilovers are off by 5/8 in.
Strut tower to passenger headlight bolt= 19 1/2, driver is 18 7/8. This is probably part of the reason why my headlights were pointing extremely to left iI would assume.

[D.Adams]

Originally Posted by ShadowMan

You can look at my build to see exactly what I'm up to, but I'm looking for the measurement between the frame rails on my 1990 hatch. Before I cut into everything I measured as many different distances as I could, I just want to make sure what the correct measurement is.
Googling I came up with 1 post that says 31 1/4 inches. Not sure if this is right or not.
What I measured off my car before cutting and removing everything.
outsides=31 7/8 in (so I'm wider by about 5/8 in. This seems like alot to be off by to me but I'm an amatuer so maybe I'm wrong)
insides=27 3/4 in
The previous owner took this car to a shop that didn't align or measure a whole lot as the the whole radiator support/headlight unit was installed crooked. I would expect a little room for error but they were way off. the measurements from the center of the adjusment screw on the coilovers are off by 5/8 in.
Strut tower to passenger headlight bolt= 19 1/2, driver is 18 7/8. This is probably part of the reason why my headlights were pointing extremely to left iI would assume.

I can measure my buddys race car today and post it up. Its a straight frame car

[ShadowMan]

Originally Posted by D.Adams

I can measure my buddys race car today and post it up. Its a straight frame car

That would be awesome. I did more measuring and I noticed the distance between the rails gets wider towards the front of the car. The difference is about a 1/2" from measuring over the steering rack, then measuring at the very front of the rails. Not sure if this is right. I appreciate any info you can get.

[Purestock240]

Oval track car

[Mister.E]

this thread = my mind melted

Tegheim - Home made 4 rotor Wolvo 142

[ShadowMan]

Throwing this out there to the wolves, don't be gentle with the critiques.






A lot of this has been doing and undoing it, to do it in what I think is the right way. Also just wanted to see if there was anything that needed to be undone quick, fast and in hurry because it's unsafe. I'm pretty much just using free scrap aside from the piping I had to go buy. Also, no pipe bender either, so that's not helping things either. And I'm just putting a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder to cut everything so that shit takes forever. Just keep that in mind when giving "suggestions".

[C-unit]

From my fabrictor:

Billet aluminum fiting for my VQ power steering pump.

[EvoVIII808]

Originally Posted by ShadowMan

Throwing this out there to the wolves, don't be gentle with the critiques.






A lot of this has been doing and undoing it, to do it in what I think is the right way. Also just wanted to see if there was anything that needed to be undone quick, fast and in hurry because it's unsafe. I'm pretty much just using free scrap aside from the piping I had to go buy. Also, no pipe bender either, so that's not helping things either. And I'm just putting a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder to cut everything so that shit takes forever. Just keep that in mind when giving "suggestions".

I think everything looks good, except for some of the welds. It doesnt look like they were hot enough. Could be the camera and angle though.

[ShadowMan]

Originally Posted by EvoVIII808

I think everything looks good, except for some of the welds. It doesnt look like they were hot enough. Could be the camera and angle though.

Actually the problem was that I was using an extension chord for the welder which was smaller than it should have been. It led to inconsistent wire speed and heat. SO yes your right, it wasn't hot enough. I have a bit of grinding to do, ugghhh. I have another question though. Is it worth making the upper part of the rad/IC support removable or will it just decrease the overall strength of the whole vehicle? I plan on tracking the car for drift, autocross, and whatever else looks fun. I also have been making this air ducting and was wondering if I should weld it in or make it removable?

I figured a removable piece would be smart, but if it's more of a pain in the ass than it's worth, I'll just weld it in there.

[The_jerk]

ive been buiding bumpers for my s13 and using a speedway motors hydro bender (3rd Generation Hydraulic Round Tubing Bender & 5 Die Set - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop).



it came with a bunch of different dies and seems to bend smaller pipe (1") no problem but when it came to the bumpers.. lets say it's good enough but not perfect for bending.
long story short, im using leftover bits of DOM 1 1/2" OD .95 pipe and no matter how much lube i use it is kinking in the bender.

what benders are you guys using? whats good and whats not worth messing with?

[EvoVIII808]

Originally Posted by The_jerk

ive been buiding bumpers for my s13 and using a speedway motors hydro bender (3rd Generation Hydraulic Round Tubing Bender & 5 Die Set - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop).



it came with a bunch of different dies and seems to bend smaller pipe (1") no problem but when it came to the bumpers.. lets say it's good enough but not perfect for bending.
long story short, im using leftover bits of DOM 1 1/2" OD .95 pipe and no matter how much lube i use it is kinking in the bender.

what benders are you guys using? whats good and whats not worth messing with?

JD Squared, Inc.

[The_jerk]

oh yeah, the bumpers i made..

this is the rear, its done and ready for paint now..







and the front.. work in progress. just have one upper bar for now. i hope to make a lower bar after that sits behind the lip of the bumper.

[The_jerk]

Originally Posted by EvoVIII808

JD Squared, Inc.

have you used the manual bender? ive heard that it works good if you have a 6 foot bar on it.
it also appears cheap @ 300 to buy but if you start adding up dies it gets expensive quick.

has anyone used or heard anything about the eastwood bender?

Eastwood Pro Former Tubing Bender - JEGS

ive used google with little to no good results on how this bender compares to other benders.

[EvoVIII808]

Alot of the guys use it. I personally dont have one yet, but it will be the weapon on choice. Dadams uses it, you can check out his buikd thread.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by The_jerk

oh yeah, the bumpers i made..

this is the rear, its done and ready for paint now..







and the front.. work in progress. just have one upper bar for now. i hope to make a lower bar after that sits behind the lip of the bumper.

Nice !!! This is how I wanted to do mine but I used mild steel .120 but it would bend I need to source some Dom, also for the rear supports the ones that bolt up to the body did u used round tubing or square tubibg?

[The_jerk]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Nice !!! This is how I wanted to do mine but I used mild steel .120 but it would bend I need to source some Dom, also for the rear supports the ones that bolt up to the body did u used round tubing or square tubibg?

i used some square tubing i had laying around. its a little bit thicker sidewall than the pipe on the bumper. i believe it is 1 1/2"



the front support is square also, i believe it is 2"

[The_jerk]

Originally Posted by EvoVIII808

Alot of the guys use it. I personally dont have one yet, but it will be the weapon on choice. Dadams uses it, you can check out his buikd thread.

i searched for threads started by the user name "Dadams" and this came up twice..
Invalid User specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator

send me a link please!

[PerilousActs]

I use a Pro-Tools 105.
MB105 Heavy Duty Bender

[ShadowMan]

Took a few steps forward, and a couple back. Just when I think I'm on the verge of prepping the bay for paint I realize ho foolish I am.
I undid the headlight mounts because they were in the way of the upper ducting.


made it removable

new headlight mounts

made the upper rad/ic support removable. you can see where I cut it, then I welded in my old piston wrist pins inside the pipe because they were as perfect fit as one could hope for. Like they were machined to fit.


It slides all the way in. I still need to drill a hole to run a bolt through so I can secure it in place but you get the idea.
90% cmplete, I think.

modified bumper a little so it would fit around my smasmortion of an air duct



I have a long way to go as far as getting it completed. Hinsight is 20/20 and there are things I would do different given I had the ideal tools, but what can ya do? Got my buddies welder figured out. I'll admit that I didn't know using an extension chord was a big No-No. I guess it's common sense stuff but now I know and that was my problem never being able to find the right settings on the mig. So my recent welds have been better which makes things go faster. As always, any input, good or bad, is welcomed.

[chucky norris]

What up guys? i have been reading this thread for a while now and there is a bunch of good stuff. I am looking to get my front end done on my s13. I need to get a full tubed front end because my car was involved in a car accident. i know i can just buy a shell with the money i am going to spend but i just don't want to give up on the car. i am located in socal, any help i would greatly appreciate it

[EvoVIII808]

Originally Posted by The_jerk

i searched for threads started by the user name "Dadams" and this came up twice..
Invalid User specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator

send me a link please!

He does most of the fab work here.
D.Adams

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...u-city-az.html

[D.Adams]

Originally Posted by The_jerk

i searched for threads started by the user name "Dadams" and this came up twice..
Invalid User specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator

send me a link please!

Im here just PM me any questions


Thanks Mo for helping him out

[rbs14kouki]

this is going on is s14 , the sr24vet from mazworx will put the power through a G-force gsr4 and the quick change in the back ...

[Purestock240]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

this is going on is s14 , the sr24vet from mazworx will put the power through a G-force gsr4 and the quick change in the back ... we offer the service too if you want something like that !!!

]

did you do the work on Poirier Claude's 350 and their 240? similar setup they have

[rbs14kouki]

Poirier set up was made by Scott (Dai Yoshihara mecanic)

I know Norm the mecanic for Poirier and he had the work done by Scott !
This is for the s13 i dont know about the z !

Im not the fabricator ! Ardo from Av Fab is ... i'm just a friend posting is stuff ! We just made the jig today . Looking foward to work on the subframe tomorow and get that car ready for FD 2013 !

[Otto347]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

this is going on is s14 , the sr24vet from mazworx will put the power through a G-force gsr4 and the quick change in the back ... we offer the service too if you want something like that !!!



Quick change diff set-up for sale ! 7500$ with the diff and axles or 2000$ for the labor no parts included !

Wrong place to pedal your parts or services.

[rbs14kouki]

post edited sorry didnt know !

back on track with the thread . we got a good day of work left and it should be ready !

[onehundredoctane]

BADFUCKINGASSMOTHERFUCKER! When I finally get my S13 on the road this might be an option!

[PerilousActs]

Protip: build the rear end from dirt cheap parts available on ebay/racing junk and order the IRS parts. WAY cheaper