Xiaphin's Bye Bye NICO Hello Zilvia - S13 SR Forced Performance Big 28 DD Build

[S14DB]

BOV and FPR should be on the Manifold side. Boost Solenoid should be on the cold pipe side of the TB.

Fuel lines should be Supply->Filter->Rail->FPR->Return.

[xiaphin]

Helps if you wire the fuel pump up right. Had the yellow and blue wire going to relay instead of white and purple. Maybe I'm colorblind. Anyways holds pressure. Here's a pic of my vac routing for ya S14DB. Fule lines are setup correctly.Cranks then dies still. Think its weird that even with relay wired in the pump works only when factory harness is connected. Isnt relay supposed to eliminate the need of having this connection?

[xiaphin]

Sprayed a little ether into my intake and car ran for about 5 seconds. Running very lean. Time to mess with my fuel map and get this sucker running.

[xiaphin]

Got car running last weekend. Just let it idle for 5 minutes and turned her off. Oil pressure and fuel pressure were great. Had a couple leaky AN connections... fixed those. Put fluid in trans. Tachometer didnt work and realized I needed a DOHC tach so swapped that out. Trimmed bumper to fit Intercooler. Put front part of cage in only to find out that the glovebox cant open. WTF so Im gonna modify the way it opens since all my controllers are in there. Kallista be here on the 9th. Gotta turn a piece on the lathe to fix my quick disconnect hub. And the list goes on. Time to get back to it.


BTW for those of you who have a hard time getting the fill plug loose cause some idiot tightened it way too much. Use a bottle jack and simply jack up the opposite end of the wrench that is on the plug. Couldn't break it loose with heat so I had to go oldschool on it.

[xiaphin]

Planned on updating this with pics of the car riding around since everything is done and just needs tuning. Got interior finished and car idling and responding properly. Went to put car in gear but it wouldnt budge. Goes in gear without the engine running. So I re-bled the clutch and adjusted the clutch pedal but still wouldnt go in gear while running. Decided to pull the tranny and found a broken finger on my pressure plate. WTF is that. You can see one finger in first pic out of line with the rest. Its pretty clear in the other what is wrong. Broken right where there is a split in the plate itself. Since I bought this almost a year ago I'm most likely just gonna have to buy another one but we will see.

[xiaphin]

Got a new pressure plate from ACT which fixed the problem of not being able to go in gear with the engine running. Turns out old plate had a factory defect. Installed B&M short shifter and Cusco shifter bushing as well.



Had appointment for tuning at TDC last weekend but had to cancel due to a problem with my 300zx booster not releasing pressure, keeping brakes on all the time. Shortened booster rod but brakes still stayed on. Swapped out with booster that came on the car but no change. Went ahead and bought the Centric 17/16 master cylinder from Z1 motorsports. Installed and pressure bled a whole quart through the system, problem fixed. Hit exhaust really hard on gas station tank refueling covers. hno: Pushed it back and dented muffler on swaybar and bent some other shit. Moved exhaust forward an inch and up two. Made bracket to keep in this position. Cut an inch out of test pipe, rewelded. Installed two new exhaust hangers. Had PS steering leak. Fixed by installing ISIS braided line.

[xnissan240sx]

looks tight

[xiaphin]

Buddy and I noticed the my injector correction values were incorrect and my logged wideband values didnt match up with the gauge. Rewired gauge to dataloggit per Innovate motorsports instructions online, which are different than those in the pdf sent with the wideband. Anyways I reprogrammed it for 0V = 9.0 and 5V=18 AFR with LCprogrammer and changed settings in datalogit. Now gauge and logged values match.

Then I changed the values to 67.0 and .01 msec of delay since I have Nismo 550's. Settings were 100 and .1msec, not sure how these got in there but somehow my car has been running on that setting for a couple weeks, just rich. Now car runs lean as hell at idle. Weird thing is that I loaded my old map and old settings, one the car was running on for a couple weeks, and still the same thing. WTF?!

Set injector correction back to the correct values of 67.0 and .01 msec. Maxed out correction (1.469) for the load cells at idle, still lean like 18 AFR. Bumped INJ vs. Water Temp values up for +30 to 1.5, and +50 to 1.25. Now idles at 13.8-15.0. Want it to be 12.5-13.0 at idle.

Is it normal to have to raise the water temp correction so much?

[S14DB]

You are using a z32 maf with the PowerFC?

What is your maf voltage at idle(~800rpm)?

[xiaphin]

Yes I'm using a z32 maf with powerfc.
voltage at idle is avg=1.1 cell n1, p2

I have not modified my airflow curve voltages.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by xiaphin

Yes I'm using a z32 maf with powerfc.
voltage at idle is avg=1.1 cell n1, p2

I have not modified my airflow curve voltages.

You should. Should be 0.8v at Key on, 1.6v at idle (800rpm)AND 2.0v at 2500rpm.

[xiaphin]

I know that MAF voltage relates to airflow and airflow to rpm but I'm not quite sure how to apply this information into the datalogit. I'm thinking that the values that need to be changed are on settings tab 3 in the bottom chart, airflow 4 row. The values in this row are slightly lower than the values I found in this VQ table on the SR20forum.

Would the load values located on settings tab 3, map reference, also need to be changed in order for rpm to match airflow? Since 800 rpm=1.6v=1711

[S14DB]

I only know how to do it in the commander.

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I only know how to do it in the commander.

I can still us the commander to interface with the PFC. Would you mind explaining how it is changed with the commander? I do have VG30 selected for the MAFS.

[S14DB]

On the screen where you select the maf. After you select the maf push the arrow over and it will go to the trim screen.

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by S14DB

On the screen where you select the maf. After you select the maf push the arrow over and it will go to the trim screen.

Ok thanks, that screen is the same as airflow on my setting 3 tab. Adjusted 0.64v=130.0% , 1.28v=140.0% , 1.92v=140.0% , and 2.56v=140.0%. Figured if car was reading 1.1v at 800 rpm instead of 1.6 i just divided 1.1 by 1.6 to get 1.45. Thats why I adjusted it to 140% Left water temp corrections alone but put INJ map back to stock S13 correction values. This resulted in an idle with AFR's going from 13.3-14.8. Would like for it to be more stable though. Seems to bounce around more than it did before my car took a crap. Also really lean when giving it gas. (Not driving it around yet)

Are these numbers simliar to what you have adjusted? If my simple calculations are correct I'm assuming I need to determine what rpm the SR20 MAF reads at each voltage value in the chart, record my voltage at that rpm, and divide for my correction value.

[xiaphin]

Finally got it tuned on Friday at TDC in Spartanburg. Only ran into one problem, had the wrong spark plugs in, NGK BKR6E, causing car to break up in high RPM's. Swapped them out for the colder NGK BKR7E and had no more problems. It didnt hit my estimated 350whp but my numbers were:

303whp 287tq at 18psi.

Did have one run with 300whp 297tq at 18psi. Post chart when I get the image from them. Surprised how close the hp and torque numbers are. Guys at shop believe 350 is attainable when I upgrade the stock intake and turbo manifolds. Will say that its a little unnerving when hearing your car go all the way to redline for the first time!!!! Side note this dyno has been known to be 10-13% lower than others. But a dyno hp number is just a number, this car has a nice power band and is tons of fun to drive.

On the Dyno.



Click on video image for video.
14 psi Boost controller off pull



18 psi final pull


They had a G35 sedan with a 2JZ swap in the shop.

[xiaphin]

Car running weird lately may be due to my TPS which I think is bad.

Running symptoms on Post #14 of this thread if interested- http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/378124...ml#post4093705

Looked at sensor check on PFC it reads 4.85 volts. Then manually checked with voltmeter probing white wire, 5.1v closed and 1.2v WOT. But to make sure it wasnt due to my wiring, from auto to maual tps, also checked resistance per FSM. Between pins B and C with throttle closed there .67 kΩ, at WOT it is 11.7kΩ. Believe it is broken internally. Feedback, is it broken?

Picked this up the other week from member off Zilvia. Said he was making 610 whp in his drag car, he sold the rest of the setup as a set so I got lucky just buying this. Greddy Intake Manifold that has been ported and polished. Manifold also ported to match Ford (65mm) throttle body with crazy return spring. In order to run the throttle body have to run the Ford TPS. If SR TPS is broken probably going to swap manifold and wire up the new one, see no sense in buying another SR one.



As I bet some others did I bought the overstocked 2010 PBM Traction Rods and Tension Rods. Couldnt pass up that deal.

[xiaphin]

Fixed the TPS. Had connections A and C backwards. Now .4 at closed 4.1 WOT. Swapped TPS out with a 97 Sentra SE-R one. Installed PBM traction rods up front.

Visual comparison of the Circuit Sports to the PBM's traction rods (tension rods). PBM is lighter and all aluminum but the center body is almost 2.5x as long as the CS. Thread on pieces are about 1.25x the diameter. PBM's bearing are covered/protected and also has 2 holes for grease fittings, the CS have neither. Easy to tell the difference between a high quality peice and a knock off. Post pics of the rear after I find my PBM lugnut socket. DOH! These are for an S13.

[S13.75DET]

lookin good phatty! now drive your ass out to Aspen for a vacation!! And bring those z32 trans with you!!

[xiaphin]

Been a long time since I've been on here. Car doesnt have roll cage anymore but other than that nothing has changed. Although I have gone from a Z32 to a G35 Nismo Sedan to a Genesis Sedan in the meantime. Car still has an issue that is bothering me. My Sard FPR has always had a tiny fuel leak out of the bottom port. Port has been retapped for fitting to thread in farther and has thread sealer on it. Running aeroquip fittings and fuel lines. Fuel pressure is 55 psi at idle and goes up to 80 psi, i think, at full boost. Pics attached. Anyone else had a similar problem with this FPR?

[NickIsAZero]

Bump because Austin's G35 was in here.

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by NickIsAZero

Bump because Austin's G35 was in here.

It sure was that thing was a beast. They were doing some street pulls during my dyno session.

[S14DB]

I am glad I am not the only one. I had to remove and reseal the fittings 3 different times to get it to seal. I think the bottom fitting 2x and the gauge once. I thought it was the hoses it was so much fuel. I was using the fittings in the box. I had to crank down on the thread thread the second time to get it to seal.

Just use a bunch of fuel safe sealant and crank it down.

[Juantwo3]

whats the ride like on this man iv always wanted to change my upright bushings

[Oakville]

I've gotta ask...do you or did you ever work for UPS? I've seen people run with a color on stickers and wheels...never this hardcore though, keep it up

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by Juantwo3

whats the ride like on this man iv always wanted to change my upright bushings

Elaborate on upright bushings. Every bushing on the car has been replaced and never driven an S13 with stock suspension.

Originally Posted by Oakville

I've gotta ask...do you or did you ever work for UPS? I've seen people run with a color on stickers and wheels...never this hardcore though, keep it up

Nope Never have just thought there 18 wheelers looked good with the brown and grey. Thought about throwing in an orange for accent but that would be too flashy for me.

[xiaphin]

As many of you might have noticed this car no longer exists. After trying to sell it for a couple of months with no interest I decided to part it out. Thanks to the Zilvia community 80% or more of my items have been given a second life. Who knows I may be back in the future.

[MonkeyWrench]

Ah, the karma.