Drift Alignment Specs, show me!!!!

[Team Aero-K]

Hey guys, been playing around with the alignment specs as far as how i want the car to react like, I just thought....maybe i should ask my fellow zilvians to see what the drivers are running front and rear.

My current alignment spec is;

Front Caster: Maxed out
Front Toe: -.05
Front Camber: -2.0

Rear Caster: Oem
Rear Toe: +.05
Rear Camber: -2.0

Give me some advice guys ....i really want an agressive spec alignment for the car to carry through easily in a turn with no fight.

[Creizai]

My Setup is

Front Caster: 8.0
Front Toe: 0
Front Camber: -3.0

Rear Caster: Oem (Will take off 12mm like dousan was saying to do on ziptied)
Rear Toe: 0
Rear Camber: -3.0

I wanna keep everything the same and maybe go -3.5 in front with -1.5-2.0 in the rear but megan ruca's suck. Thats just my personal setup I prefer I'm not telling you how to setup your car just what I like. Your prolly doing hi-speed 4th downshift 3rd gear turns with new tires in back and want more grip. Most tracks around here are lame but fun 2nd gear tracks. I like to be able to throw it and just mash it without to much stress kinda like my GT3 setups

[Sonic Motor]

Track with elevation

Front:
Camber -2.5
Toe: within factory specs
caster: as close to factory as I can, right now its 7.4 or something...


Rear:
Toe: within factory specs
Camber: -2 or -2.2


Flat track/street with no elevation changes:
Front:
Camber -2.5
Toe: within factory specs
caster: as close to factory as I can, right now its 7.4 or something...

Rear:
Toe: within factory specs
Camber: -0

For toe: people keep telling me to keep it within spec with a little toe out biased. I did a a few time. Didnt like how it felt on the freeway.
For caster: It all depends on wheel clearance and what you are used to.
Camber: obviously, more camber is better for grip

Tire pressure and tire grip makes Crazy amount of difference when you drift.

[Team Aero-K]

Nice nice....keep em coming.....

See my set up is pretty normal i guess, I have all the arms and links swapped out for full adjustability.
My front and rear rims are 17X9.5J +17 offset with 25mm front fenders and 30mm rear quarters. Front wheels have 10mm spacers rear has 15mm spacers.

I noticed with the setup i have, the highway drive is scary....but then again, it could be that one side my be slightly off then the other. I believe the passenger side tension rod is stuck, it won't budge one bit. Might be stripped.

I have brand new Uras Tension rods going on, brand new Uras Inner tie rods and D-max outers

[Silvia_S13]

i like grip.

front
castor 7.6
camber -2.0ish
toe stock

rear
i dont touch castor
camber is -1.0 or 1.1
toe is zero

[Team Aero-K]

anyone else might have their drift alignment specs to share with me....I need a few more advice, pretty much everybody so far is running similar to the same set-up.

[apex]

mine is dd with sum track time i gotta change it soon cuz it
wants to turn by itself
fn's 17x9 +15 225/45/17 front
rear 17x9+15 235/40/17
front
cam.1.5
toe.0
cas.6.5
rear:
cam 3.5
toe and cas stock
front sus.is
tein inner and outter tie rods
kazama t/c rods
yanack metal rack bushing
alumi steering bushing
nismo power brace
new stock flca bushing
megan street coils and tein strut bars

[Silvia_S13]

Originally Posted by Silvia_S13

i like grip.

front
castor 7.6
camber -2.0ish
toe stock

rear
i dont touch castor
camber is -1.0 or 1.1
toe is zero

whoever left me neg rep for saying i like grip is an idiot. i meant i like more grip mid drift or while drifting. i like having traction, i like having control, i don't like the feeling of not having enough traction. so i run less camber, in my drift car.

so whoever left me neg rep saying "drift spec alignment, learn to read" is a fucking idiot.

[Sonic Motor]

people at the Federal Drift event said...
Its better to have 0 to -1 degree camber in the rear.
They said its better.

And more air pressure in your tires for more smoke.

[Team Aero-K]

Originally Posted by carparthookup

people at the Federal Drift event said...
Its better to have 0 to -1 degree camber in the rear.
They said its better.

And more air pressure in your tires for more smoke.

It also depends on the course too, Federal might be correct on the part where the track has elevation changes and steep upgrades, but for a level track that has no elevation, adding a little more camber in the rear would make a little sense. But never go over -3.0 in the rear, even -2.5 is pushing it sometimes. You would want a full contact patch of the tire to hit the ground for even tire wear and also the traction you would require in drift.

This is giving me great idea's for my next setup....thanks guys, keep em coming...i still want to see more alignment specs!

[Sonic Motor]

actually, from personal experience, like I said, I think for flat surface courses, its better to have more camber for more even wear.

[Team Aero-K]

Originally Posted by carparthookup

actually, from personal experience, like I said, I think for flat surface courses, its better to have more camber for more even wear.

completely agree with you.....thats the same thing i said in my post before, no elevation more camber!

[tougekid]

i run -2.5 camber, 0 toe and 7* of caster in the front.-1.5 camber, 1/8 toe in and i dont know about the caster on the rear.i've got to get a better alignment done. cornor balanced blah,blah...im curious on the takeing out 12mm on the rear caster though. can you post a link to it please? i tryed going to ziptied, but the sites( or my office computer) is messed up.

[Luvs2slide]

S13
Steering bushing, Megan street coilovers, all adjustable arms/rods/bars.
17 x 9 +10 225/45/17 front
17 x 10 +10 235/45/17
Front camber -3, Rear -1.5
Caster front is maxed out, rears is near OEM spec.
Toe I cant remember but near stock on front and little aggresive on rear.

I was getting good grip for about 80mph entries from 4th then downshift to 3rd. I was running Federal 595s. Alot will have to do with the tire you choose to run and like someone was saying before was tire pressure. This definately makes a big difference. If you need more grip in your front just lower the pressure and vice versa. This is pretty self explanatory. Same with rears. if you feel you need more traction, like the rear end is just sliding all crazy and shit drop that pressure like its hot.

by the way, i also used to run a crazy camber on highways which was scary...i think like -5ish lol. every bump i hit the car wanted to steer. Looks good but not too fun to drive. Good luck with your future setups...By the way sorry for the long post but try to pick some good tires and stick with them so you can be more consistent.

Nino

[Ninjabread]

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but I figure I'd post my alignement here...

I did myself today.


Front Driver : 3 mm (toe out) ( 0.365* toe out)
-0.21 camber

Front Pass : - 3.1 mm (toe in) ( - 0.377* toe in)
-0.12* camber

Rear Driver : -0.5mm (toe in)(0.058* toe in)
-3.92* camber

Rear Pass : -1mm (toe in)( 0.121* toe in)
-3.67 camber

Notes:

-Still going to play with my front camber, I just made the mistake of maxing out the coilover bracket outwards, and even with the top plate maxed inwards, i could only get that much negative camber out of it. I did like the way it drove though, super grippy front end.

- the +3 / -3 toe in the front is because my wheel's werent straight, so obviously when the car straightens out, that becomes 0 / 0 (or does it? still going to double check it later)

- rear camber not even: it's close enough, and the stock arms are a bitch to adjust.


Overall, I'd say it's totally worth to take the time and do this yourself. It's a good learning experience, and you know how your car is setup.

I'll leave it like this for now, try it out at the track sunday and report back to you guys with what changes have been made.

Does anyone here run close to 0 camber in the front?

[KiDyNomiTe]

Front:

Camber: 3.8
Caster: 7
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: 2.2
Toe 0

[mifesto]

KiDynomite, i like ur setup (though i wouldnt have so much front neg camber cuz i do mostly street) but isnt 0 toe everything gonna make it feedback alil numb?

[D1champ]

Front camber -2.3
Toe 0.02
caster OEM

Rear camber -3.7
Toe 0
Caster OEM

[Team Aero-K]

Originally Posted by D1champ

Front camber -2.3
Toe 0.02
caster OEM

Rear camber -3.7
Toe 0
Caster OEM

May I ask why you are running so much Negative Camber in the rear?? How bad is your tire wear?

Ive been seeing people run -3.5 camber in the front and between -1.5 -2.0

[NewS13Guy]

bump for more specs! I have a S13 fastback and want to know as much info as possible before I buy my wheels! I was thinking of going 17x9 (f) 17x9.5 (r) + 20 offset all the way around to be on the safe side. Any opinions???

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by NewS13Guy

bump for more specs! I have a S13 fastback and want to know as much info as possible before I buy my wheels! I was thinking of going 17x9 (f) 17x9.5 (r) + 20 offset all the way around to be on the safe side. Any opinions???

Thread-jack anyone??
(i know this is an old post, but i just had to point this one out haha)

[TheBoRiley]

Originally Posted by redsx13

Thread-jack anyone??
(i know this is an old post, but i just had to point this one out haha)

HEY GUYS! Let me tell you about my drift car on this old post!

[TheBoRiley]

Originally Posted by NewS13Guy

bump for more specs! I have a S13 fastback and want to know as much info as possible before I buy my wheels! I was thinking of going 17x9 (f) 17x9.5 (r) + 20 offset all the way around to be on the safe side. Any opinions???

HEY GUYS! Let me tell you about my drift car on this old post!

[KiDyNomiTe]

Originally Posted by KiDyNomiTe

Front:

Camber: 3.8
Caster: 7
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: 2.2
Toe 0

9 years later

Front
Camber: 9
Caster: 7
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: 4 (not fully by choice)
Toe: 0

[fiziksfiziks]

Mike Kojima Recommends:

Front:
-2 to -5 Camber
1/8-1/4 toe out
7-9 Caster

Rear:
-0 to -1 camber
1/8 toe in

Furthermore:
2.5-3.5" bump travel
1.5-2" droop
28-32 PSI all around, adjust from there
Wheel rate slightly stiffer in front than rear
sway bar 20-50% stiffer in front than rear