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Old 07-17-2014, 08:46 PM   #1
Nikzilla
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SR20DET crankcase ventilation fitting

So I'm getting a catch can, and I want to convert all my ventilation lines to AN braided hose so that they don't burn up.

From what I read, you can just pull the valve cover Tee out (it's an s13 blacktop) and run a 3/8 NPT tap through it.

But what about the hose that goes into the block? If I remember correctly from when I did my rebuild, it's a nipple fitting pipe, that goes into the block underneath the head. You can't remove it without taking the head off. Also, tapping it would be extremely risky since it's a channel in the block that goes down to the oil pan. If I tapped it I would have to separate the head, block, and oil pans.

I've seen pictures before with people running an AN hose to down there behind the manifold, but I never could figure out how they did it.

What about cutting the nipple off the fitting, flaring it, and using a flare fitting?
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:56 PM   #2
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This is the fitting I am talking about btw.

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Old 07-18-2014, 01:18 PM   #3
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Sigh. Doed anyone at least know what size the hose is?
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Old 07-18-2014, 01:59 PM   #4
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Weld on a fitting ?
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:17 PM   #5
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Can I do that without splitting it?
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikzilla View Post
Can I do that without splitting it?
I haven't tried but I thought that was what people did to convert it. Depends on if you can get a welder in that area. Is the engine in the car still ?
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:38 PM   #7
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Yeah but I'm gunna be pulling it soon to swap my tranny. I can't weld yet. I outsource my welding to a local machinist.
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Old 01-25-2021, 08:35 PM   #8
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hey wanted to bump this up. So what are people doing at this piece? I have a AN fitting on the valve cover side and the other end just slips over the pipe. Just wanted to see if there's a nicer solution


EDIT: I see these pieces available but they require removing the head to install

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Old 05-29-2021, 08:58 PM   #9
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I getting my car setup and I using the Mazworx part and let me tell you I love it
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Old 08-10-2021, 10:08 AM   #10
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You still need to run a pcv system even if you are going to use a catch can. There MUST be a crankcase pressure drop (vacuum) supplied at all times for various reasons, on every car. Race cars use vacuum pumps to supplement these reasons but for modest cars & daily drivers intake suction will suffice.
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Old 08-10-2021, 10:20 AM   #11
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Ya from the block the catch can then from the valve cover cut that t use a an fitting from where t was to the catch can and other side the pcv take that out use an fitting from there to catch can 3 an fitting
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240boosted View Post
Ya from the block the catch can then from the valve cover cut that t use a an fitting from where t was to the catch can and other side the pcv take that out use an fitting from there to catch can 3 an fitting
wat


This is how the pcv system is OEM (desired):

Intake manifold -> PCV valve (any pcv valve, I use 2jzgte pcv valve) -> crankcase (valve cover is fine).

That is the cruise/idle pcv suction. You will need to verify the crankcase pressure at cruise/idle using a gauge or 2-bar map sensor to make sure it is between 1 to 2" of Hg vacuum signal at all times. No more than 3" Hg.

---- Other side of PCV system ----

This is the WOT side:
crankcase -> large diameter hose (8an or 10an is fine) -> Pre-turbo intake pipe, post air filter.

So, AFTER the air filter, BEFORE the turbo, there needs to be a hose attached from there to the crankcase.

Like this:


This is how all turbo cars come from the OEM. There is nothing unique or new about what I am explaining here, only replicating the OEM system which is IDEAL for the majority of non-race cars which use vacuum pumps instead.

If you fail to connect this simple hose to replicate the OEM pcv system properly, it will lead to oil aspiration, oil will blow into the intake manifold through the oil baffles, and oil will escape the engine, oil will begin to leak from every seal i.e. front main, rear main, valve covers, front cover, etc... every seal will be exposed to high pressure at wot and this will facilitate leaking. Furthermore it will lead to oil contamination, causing the oil quality to degrade rapidly due to blow-by gasses combining with engine oil (they are miscible hydrocarbons) which leads to tar-like sludge and hard, diamond-like carbon deposits forming around the engine which can block passage, alter oil flow character, and create stagnant reservoirs of carbon conglomerates (its like atherosclerosis for your engine)
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:18 AM   #13
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on the sr a new build i have one from the oil separator on the block one like previous post from mazworx which goes from the block to catch can. Then I have one from where the t pose is but i removed that and put a fitting in then from there to catch can then pcv to catch can. never had any issues. you can see from the pic https://www.pinterest.com/pin/651825746045902601/ not mine but same concept
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:24 AM   #14
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Doesn't sound right and doesn't look right in the picture either.

If its not OEM its not right.

There are lots of ways to leave a PCV system... you could just leave the engine open to atmosphere for example. Then say "no issues" pretty easily.

However after about 20,000 miles, there will be issues. And those issues lead quickly to an engine overhaul, which then fails because not having pcv caused oil passages to clog with deposits, followed by a massive partout of the vehicle or a new engine. And it was all because you didn't follow the OEM pcv system.

It's like start smoking today, smoke a pack of cigs and then tell me "Look, I have no issues".
You can go for months of doing that and nothing apparent will happen to you. Because you can't see what is happening inside you.
get back to me in a few years of doing that and compare your performance from before you started smoking.
And finally a few years after that... you need a new body

The engine is the same way. rip off the air filter and pcv system and it will run fine today. And tomorrow. No issues.
but give it some mileage and you will need a new engine.
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5t341tH View Post
hey wanted to bump this up. So what are people doing at this piece? I have a AN fitting on the valve cover side and the other end just slips over the pipe. Just wanted to see if there's a nicer solution


EDIT: I see these pieces available but they require removing the head to install

yes you need remove the head
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:07 PM   #16
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When I hooked my catch can up I went -10 or -12 from both valve covers(RB) to a Y and into the can, the other port on the can goes into my Air intake. I will have to add a Vacuum gauge and check how much it is pulling. I am running E85+ only so I opted for the catch can.
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