the wire tuck pic thread

[conrad_s13.5]

had to stare at it crooknecked,.....but looks like ur on the right track.....lol

id just buy the Auto-Rod Controls panel.
ARC-Auto Rod Controls 8000D - ARC Flat Touch Switch Panels - Overview - SummitRacing.com

then all that work is done for you,. and you can still wire your car to your hearts desire

[godrifttoday]

^
Must be nice, but I'm not looking to spend that money.

[godrifttoday]

This were I'm at.

[GSXRJJordan]

You're doing it backwards. Run the wire from whatever device or connector it's coming from (assuming you're using an existing harness) and then crimp an end on the wire. Crimping an end on a pigtail off your relays/dist block just ensures an extra solder joint.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

You're doing it backwards. Run the wire from whatever device or connector it's coming from (assuming you're using an existing harness) and then crimp an end on the wire. Crimping an end on a pigtail off your relays/dist block just ensures an extra solder joint.

My goal is to make my own harness for essentials the only original wires would be the engine harness. Correct me on this but I changed the switch location, I'll be running ----ground to switch to relay (86) pin. Instead of relay (85) having the switch

[axiomatik]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

So I'm now trying to wire up my car from scratch. I made some wiring diagrams I'm not done with them yet, ( I know I need to put my starter relay) Just want to know if I'm on the right track. What I want is all relays be activated by a switch, and power up what ever I need to work ( fuel pump/ fan) and so on... And when no longer needed just flick the switch to off.
Option 1
Option 2 ( I've figured out how to add. An indicator light) will post pic tomorrow

Any suggestions or thoughts would be help ful , I'm I good or not with this layout.

I see one main breaker, but no individual fuses for the various circuits. If you get a short somewhere your wiring may burn before the breaker trips.

[flipmike22]

Originally Posted by Chase Bays

where did you get those radiator braided lines and coolant reservoir lines? are they the spectre braided lines from summit?

[killer skittle]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

So I'm now trying to wire up my car from scratch. I made some wiring diagrams I'm not done with them yet, ( I know I need to put my starter relay) Just want to know if I'm on the right track. What I want is all relays be activated by a switch, and power up what ever I need to work ( fuel pump/ fan) and so on... And when no longer needed just flick the switch to off.
Option 1
Option 2 ( I've figured out how to add. An indicator light) will post pic tomorrow

Any suggestions or thoughts would be help ful , I'm I good or not with this layout.

Suggestion: please please for your own sake make neater/ cleaner diagrams. You will be hating life later on if you don't.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by axiomatik

I see one main breaker, but no individual fuses for the various circuits. If you get a short somewhere your wiring may burn before the breaker trips.

Originally Posted by killer skittle

Suggestion: please please for your own sake make neater/ cleaner diagrams. You will be hating life later on if you don't.

i still need to wire up my gauges and havent tapped into the ecu yet, put ill post the pins and what not, anyone know which pin to power up ecu of the top of their head? should i wire up a 14 pin oem connector ? but i left extra relays incase i need future power it will be wires up, so still not done, any critique would help

Originally Posted by flipmike22

where did you get those radiator braided lines and coolant reservoir lines? are they the spectre braided lines from summit?

-16an hoses

[godrifttoday]

deleteeeeeeeeee

[Chase Bays]

Originally Posted by flipmike22

where did you get those radiator braided lines and coolant reservoir lines? are they the spectre braided lines from summit?

We sell them. Its our one of product options with our Radiator.

Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Chase Bays

We sell them. Its our one of product options with our Radiator.

Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com

could you post a picture that shows more of behind the motor? specifically the coolant hose in the back and the fuel rail. thanks.

[phearski]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Just a couple more things to add to the bay and that's it. Should be REALLY clean looking once it's done. I just need to add the engine harness which will obviously be tucked, the heater lines and radiator lines which will be all black AN fittings and braided black nylon hose... along with a tucked radiator. Then a custom intake setup and I should be good to go.

I can't wait to see the results.

[killer skittle]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

i still need to wire up my gauges and havent tapped into the ecu yet, put ill post the pins and what not, anyone know which pin to power up ecu of the top of their head? should i wire up a 14 pin oem connector ? but i left extra relays incase i need future power it will be wires up, so still not done, any critique would help

-16an hoses

<3

[boyou2]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

A fuse especially used for the brake light?

Useless, you should use the left brake light with the left lightning, and do the same with the right circuit.

You should use two different/separate and secured circuit for left and right light relay command, because if you do like your draw, if your main fuse for relays burn, you have no light at all, no fuel pump, no FAN, no ignition, you can imagine the dramatical issue by night in the middle of nowhere......

For the alternator and starter, YES, you MUST use FUSES!!!!

For every electrical systems, at the beginning of them, and the nearest of the battery, fuse, fuse, fuse!!!!

after the battery, a 75A fuse, for general security, and after that, fuse box.

Here's a fast schem' that i made :



I didi'nt make the brake light modification.

[godrifttoday]

^
I see that actually make sense, the reason I'm using 85 straight to 12 volt it just seems easier to wire, since they relas only need I think.5 volts to activate that's why I had ask if I needed a resistor, I could also just tap into the ecu to activate the relays... But if not I will run them off 2 separate circuits. I actually altered my set up. For the break lights the 2 lights are wired together and ran on a fuse, and as for the battery I don't have a 75 fuse I have a 80 amp breaker. Thanks for the new idea! I'll post pics later. Here is how it's coming out so far

[axiomatik]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

^
I see that actually make sense, the reason I'm using 85 straight to 12 volt it just seems easier to wire, since they relas only need I think.5 volts to activate that's why I had ask if I needed a resistor, I could also just tap into the ecu to activate the relays... But if not I will run them off 2 separate circuits. I actually altered my set up. For the break lights the 2 lights are wired together and ran on a fuse, and as for the battery I don't have a 75 fuse I have a 80 amp breaker. Thanks for the new idea! I'll post pics later. Here is how it's coming out so far

Automotive relays are designed to operate at 12 volts. While they may not need a full 12 volts to actuate (though I doubt 0.5 volts would be enough), they are rated for 12 volts.

[boyou2]

I agree, another voltage (more or less) will destroy them for a court period.

[GSXRJJordan]

12v relays stop being reliable at around 9v. I think he's referring to the 500ma (.5 amp) draw when the coil closes the armature.

80a breaker on the battery (before the starter) will trip every time you crank the car for more than a second.

[90240sx07]

Here's a fast schem' that i made :



I didi'nt make the brake light modification.[/QUOTE]

whats the square item by the fuse after the battery and has the alternator and starter wires coming out?
relay box??

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

12v relays stop being reliable at around 9v. I think he's referring to the 500ma (.5 amp) draw when the coil closes the armature.

80a breaker on the battery (before the starter) will trip every time you crank the car for more than a second.

From my understanding relays don't need constant power to get activated, but how I'm doing it I'm using 12 volts what side resistor should I use to limit the voltage to the relays? So for the battery to the starter no fuse correct? Everything else yes? I need to look at the fsm again lol

[di-devol]

whats the square item by the fuse after the battery and has the alternator and starter wires coming out?
relay box??

Probably distribution block?

[godrifttoday]

Yes it is a distribution block

[axiomatik]

Relays need constant voltage to stay energized. It is not like a light switch, where you flip it once, and it stays there. You apply voltage to a relay, it energizes, and as soon as you remove the voltage, it de-energizes.

Do not wire in any resistor to change the voltage going to the relays. The relays are designed to operate at the standard automotive 12-14 volts.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

From my understanding relays don't need constant power to get activated, but how I'm doing it I'm using 12 volts what side resistor should I use to limit the voltage to the relays? So for the battery to the starter no fuse correct? Everything else yes? I need to look at the fsm again lol

I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but you're really not getting it.

A relay has two parts, a coil (between pins 85 and 86) and an armature (between pins 30, 87, and 87a). A small current (at a set voltage, in this case 12v) across the coil activates the armature, which has very large contacts to conduct a large amount of current (usually 30A or 40A). If you use a resistor inline with the coil, you'll drop the voltage that the coil sees, and it won't have the electromotive force to effectively close the armature.

Short version: Don't limit voltage to the coil. Like I said, 12v relays stop opening and closing effectively at about 9v.

[boyou2]

the command part of the relay is a magnet system (as injector) if voltage in it is not strong enough, it will not 'close' the circuit, and so, let the current goes to the element you want to work.

[godrifttoday]

I get it how a relay works, I was just needed to be clear since I got a bit confused once u said relays are not reliable 9v... And no I don't think your being harsh. Its far better to ask, than not too..

[GSXRJJordan]

... so when you deliver switched power to the relay to energize the coil, it needs to be switched +12V. No resistor inline with your switched hot, switched ground, constant hot, constant ground, whatever. No resistors.

[Broadfield]

Why in the hell are we evening talking about resistors? I feel like I should be working on a new Chrysler model or something.

[slow-R]

im relocating my fuse box in s14 to trunk anyone got wire loom they wanna sell to me :P