Change your own struts or? (Brakes too) Any mechanics out there?

[twitchy]

I have a decent amount of skill when it comes to working on a car.

Thing is that I dont have any hoist or all the tools I may need for a job, and I usually watch my mechanic do the work and think I could have done that myself

Anyhow I need new shocks and struts (or is it just struts??!)

Can I do this myself, assuming I have the tools is it a weekend in-your-driveway kind of thing or should I get it done professionally?

Has anyone done theirs before and have any tips at all if I do my own?
(model is an S13 non hicas)

As well, are there any aftermarket (performance) companies that make stock replacements, since i dont want to lower it.

* * *
as well front brakes. Im all cool with that except for pushing the pistons back in to accept the new pads. And should I use a torque wrench to put the bolts back in (ie measure the torque) or just "tighten them right up"

thanks for any help

[hotrodman]

It can be done if you have a strut spring compressor and some hand tools (strut replacement). Most people have to take the car to an alignment shop after this so be prepared for the worst.What are you looking for in struts (just an oem replacement or performance)?

For the brakes it should not be a problem and if you do not have the tool for compressing the piston then use a c-clamp and a block of wood or the old brake pad (for most calipers).

There are probably others who know more about this than me.

[misnomer]

I've done struts and brakes on a 240sx, a Sentra, and soon another 240sx. The biggest trouble is the top bolt on the struts/shocks (struts up front, shocks in the back, if you want to get picky). It's one of those things where you have to loosen the bolt to get off the spring (make CERTAIN it is compressed first, there are threads on spring compression and strut replacement). But, when you turn the bolt, the shaft will usually spin as well. Very tricky. I've had to take all of the ones I've done in to my mechanic just because of that damn bolt. Other than that it isn't a bad job.

Jack up the car, put it on jack stands, pull off the wheels, remove the bolts (3 top, 2 bottom) and fenagle the brake line out. The full spring/shock assembly will come out. Now you need to get that spring compressor you rented from Autozone and compress the spring so you don't kill yourself. An air wrench would probably make quick work of that bolt up top, otherwise. . . Yeah, have fun with it. Reverse this process to put your new ones back on.

For factory replacement, KYB GR2 is about the best deal. Tokico Blues are a bit of an upgrade, will give you a stiffer ride than the GR2s. I know of no aftermarket struts that will lower the 240sx, due to the design and the positioning of the wheel.



As far as brakes go, another pretty quick job. I used a hugeass monkey wrench and something to protect the piston to squeeze it back in. Make sure you empty out some fluid first, or you may overflow the tank.

You can torque the bolts if you want to, but they are hefty bolts going into iron. My auto mechanics instructor a few years back just said "tight as youc an get 'em" with a ratchet, and it hasn't failled yet (knock on wood). Somebody around here probably has the official torque specs.

[twitchy]

thanks dudes

Think ill leave the shocks for my mechanic, hell pretty much do it for a case of beer or something

i will see if I can tackle the brakes this weekend

[hotrodman]

I wish the mechanics around me were like that.....wait! I'm a mechanic, ahhhhhhhh!

[weirdstyles.net]

Do NOT use a impact gun on the upper strut mount bolt. My KYB's top bolts were stipped by Pep Boys.

Taking the struts in/out is a VERY simple job. Make sure when you disassemble the old struts to take every mount you can get, and get the boot kits. I didnt but a boot kit on the rear (didnt think of the huge difference)

Well the rear strut boots come with a bumper and with out it, every time you hit a bump the r struts SLAM the strut housing... it blows.

As far as the brakes, you need to get a special piston compressor for the rear. If your going to do it, do it right. I didnt have the tool and turned the piston c-clockwise to remove/release pressure. Then reverses to install it.

Front/Rear Brakes/Struts are hella easy and very rewarding at the end of the day


back to school...

[ny180sx]

Visit the tech/DIY section in this website...

www.nystreetrace.com

[sykikchimp]

the rear brake pistons dont compress in.. there is no such tool. you can either use a pair of needle nose pliers, or there is a special tools to fit over the piston that you can use a wratchet to help screw it back in.

either way you just have to screw it back in Counter Clockwise. the dust boot will turn with the piston. Move slowly so you don't tear the dust boot.

Also on the strut removal.
Remove brake line atachment.
Then remove the Lower 2 bolts that attach the strut to the upright first (leaving the top 3 tight will make removing the bottom 2 MUCH easier.. don't ask how I found this out. )
The unbolt the top 3 on the strut tower.

The rear is basically the same process, only difference is there are only 2 top bolts, and 1 lower bolt. remove the lower bolt first.

Its easy to remove the top bolt that holds the spring.. (after attaching the spring compressor) get a pair of vise grips, and attach them to the stem comming out of the top of the bolt.. that is the top of the strut rod. Hold the vise grips in place, and use the appropriate sized wrench to unbolt that nut. then just remember the order that everything went on the strut rod as you take it all off. Replace everything onto the new strut. easy as pie. I just did this on my roommates RSX last sunday.

The orientation of the spring on the strut is very important. you have to first make sure the front springs are on the front.. (they are the big ones) Second is to make sure you have them right side up. Just look at the size of the top and bottom coils in diamater (u can eyeball it) and put the other spring on the same way. (small coil up I think is the way they sit.)

Once you get the strut back together, simply put it back in. Reverse the removal steps. Attach top 3 nuts. Leave loose so there is play in the strut. Put bottom 2 upright bolts back in, and tighten them. Tighten top 3 bolts. Attach brake lines. DONE.

Note: There will be some tension on the lower control arms when you are removing and installing the struts. This is due to the Sway bars. If you are finding it too dificult to get the struts back on for whatever reason, you can simply unbolt the sway bar. everything moves around much easier after that.


As far as torque specs go:
Lower 2 strut bolts on front struts, and lower single strut bolt on rear are ~85ft lb.
the Uppers strut bolts are like 25 ft lb.

As far as the Brake caliper bolts, I'd go with the "tight as youc an get 'em" with a ratchet" statement. Thats what I do, and it works fine. I figure its about 45 ft lb.

Remember Lug nuts are always 85 ft lb.