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Old 04-01-2013, 09:51 AM   #13261
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Hey, guys. Does anybody know where I can find replacement mounting tabs for s13 Silvia headlights? Mine are broken and I remember someone awhile back was making metal replacement tabs that you could glue/screw onto the headlights to replace the broken tabs. The problem is I can't remember who was making them or where they are sold. If anybody knows let me know!
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:55 PM   #13262
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Why does the Pignose front look WAY better than the Chuki front?



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Old 04-01-2013, 01:48 PM   #13263
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Where does the sr20det alternator ground wire go? Pic would be nice. It's the small black wire with the eyelet. Thanks
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:27 PM   #13264
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Ok need more Zilvia Knowledge.

Around what MAF voltage does the RB20 Cut fuel?

I am using a Blow through setup and Hitting cut at like barely 7psi on my turbo.


what Voltage do they cut at? or UP TO what voltage is OK? so I can build a Maf voltage map in AEM...


ALSO : I need recommendations on Suspension upgrade. my stock stuff is shit. it is bouncing and crappy. my front alignment is also off but that will get fixed.

WHAT do you zilvians recommend to buy to Have a DECENT streetable suspension? I don't need no hella flush scraping Drifter shit.

Last edited by OrangeVirus1; 04-01-2013 at 05:34 PM..
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:34 PM   #13265
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s14 lower control parts

where can i find a lower control arm for a 96 s14?
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:51 PM   #13266
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wasn't sure if this deserved its own thread or not, but I figured why risk getting flamed if I could just post here and get my answer...

Anyways, I've done a bit of a search and haven't come up with any results. I'm wondering if there is anybody that makes urethane or FRP hybrid (like ings +1 makes for their body kits) over fenders. Reason I ask is because I'm really not sure how prone FRP is to cracking, and I'd really hate to find cracks in my over fenders after pulling my car out from winter storage or just avoid them cracking from anything short of an accident as I plan on putting on a fairly expensive paint job.
I was planning on running 9" wheels in the front with 245/40/18 rubber and 10" in the back running 275/35/18 and I would like to have absolutely no tire stretch because I don't like the look and I don't want to run the risk of debeading the tires.... Unless someone can tell me whether running a small amount of stretch can guarantee they won't debead.

if no one makes urethane or FRP hybrid over fenders, can anyone vouch for the durability of Origin over fenders? Or if even the OEM metal fenders can be pulled enough without looking too ugly to support those kinds of wheels and tires?

Dang, that's actually more than one question, but I want to find the best option for what I want to do.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:18 PM   #13267
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Quote:
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Where does the sr20det alternator ground wire go? Pic would be nice. It's the small black wire with the eyelet. Thanks
It bolts to the body itself. Find a threaded hole on the passenger side fender, anyplace will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
Around what MAF voltage does the RB20 Cut fuel?

I am using a Blow through setup and Hitting cut at like barely 7psi on my turbo.
Interested to know as well, as I've never been aware of any MAF nissan to introduce a boost cut/fuel cut when you max or 'over volt' (wrong word to use, but it make ssense) the maf.


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ALSO : I need recommendations on Suspension upgrade. my stock stuff is shit. it is bouncing and crappy. my front alignment is also off but that will get fixed.

WHAT do you zilvians recommend to buy to Have a DECENT streetable suspension? I don't need no hella flush scraping Drifter shit.
Budget determines ride. What is your budget? Ideal would be a Koni Yellow or 8610 or 8611 based setup, but it depends on how much you want to spend.


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where can i find a lower control arm for a 96 s14?

Parts Store, or posting a WTB add in the classifieds here.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:23 PM   #13268
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Interested to know as well, as I've never been aware of any MAF nissan to introduce a boost cut/fuel cut when you max or 'over volt' (wrong word to use, but it make ssense) the maf.

also you can't over volt a maf. it will only read Up to the 5 volts after that it's blind.


Budget determines ride. What is your budget? Ideal would be a Koni Yellow or 8610 or 8611 based setup, but it depends on how much you want to spend.

Already Figured it out. My Rb20 Cuts If the maf hits more than 4.7 Volts. So I just used AEM to maf clamp it and Set the Maf Voltages to whatever I wanted and the Ecu see's what Volt I tell it at what RPM I tell it.


Also Could I fix my bouncy ride with let's say... 650?
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:31 PM   #13269
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Spend an extra $250, but some Fortune Auto's. Street valving, 8k 6k spring rates, and enjoy. Can go super low if you decided you ever wanted to, but can also just "drop the car a little". Ride is excellent as well.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:32 PM   #13270
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Spend an extra $250, but some Fortune Auto's. Street valving, 8k 6k spring rates, and enjoy. Can go super low if you decided you ever wanted to, but can also just "drop the car a little". Ride is excellent as well.
Will I need any of the control arms or any of that extra fancy stuff? or just coil overs..?
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:35 PM   #13271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
Already Figured it out. My Rb20 Cuts If the maf hits more than 4.7 Volts. So I just used AEM to maf clamp it and Set the Maf Voltages to whatever I wanted and the Ecu see's what Volt I tell it and what RPM I tell it.
Does an RB have a factory map sensor too?

That is totally strange stuff for sure. Good to know though



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Also Could I fix my bouncy ride with let's say... 650?
The second half of the question is how low do you need to ride, and what do you do with the car?

If you don't need it super low, you can go with Koni yellow's and a spring setup of your choice. Also doesn't hurt to put caster/camber plates on it too

Koni Yellows Install on Nissan 240sx
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:39 PM   #13272
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Quote:
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Does an RB have a factory map sensor too?

That is totally strange stuff for sure. Good to know though





The second half of the question is how low do you need to ride, and what do you do with the car?

If you don't need it super low, you can go with Koni yellow's and a spring setup of your choice. Also doesn't hurt to put caster/camber plates on it too

Koni Yellows Install on Nissan 240sx


no map sensor I could find. I use the Map sensor on my AEM ecu to tune everything.


I would like to be able to drive the car, streets, highway, etc with only mild discomfort.

And maybe the attempt at a half ass 5 second drift every now and then. I don't need it more then 1 inch lower than stock. I just don't want it to bounce and wobble
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:14 PM   #13273
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Dampening or Non dampening Coil overs? don't know what to choose
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #13274
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KADE fuel pump and no start issue.
Fuse is good. Makes sound when key is in on position but not the normal sound.. No pressure or flow.

Any help diagnosing this would be much appreciated.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:55 PM   #13275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
no map sensor I could find. I use the Map sensor on my AEM ecu to tune everything.
Was curious as if they had a factory MAP as well, that maybe tells the ECU to cut at 4.7 along with a map or boost selenoid reference.


Quote:
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Dampening or Non dampening Coil overs? don't know what to choose
Just search basic setups. Koni Yellows are hands down the best beginner level setup in regard to cost and ride, so long a you dn't battleship earth them.

If not get some Fortune Auto 500's and ride. It's gonna be rougher than stock no doubt, but better than a totally cheapy set.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:08 AM   #13276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkilburn View Post
KADE fuel pump and no start issue.
Fuse is good. Makes sound when key is in on position but not the normal sound.. No pressure or flow.

Any help diagnosing this would be much appreciated.
From the fuse box, look for a wire going out, that wire may be bad.
Look in the trunk and check, first, the fuel pump, it may be bad
Check the wiring from the fuel pump to the fuse box by using long ass leads on your multimeter after you disconnect the wire at each end.
Check the input wire to the fuse panel

If you get totally lost, get the wire diagram, print it up nice and big, connect the pages, and lay some thin clear film over it. Use dry erase marker to trace so you can clean it after and use it for the next ghost in the machine


essentially, you are isolating each connector, in the entire fuel system, and seeing if there is a short, and testing all parts
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:25 AM   #13277
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Quote:
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It bolts to the body itself. Find a threaded hole on the passenger side fender, anyplace will do.
Thanks man. I was thinking that it would go on the frame but the wiring specialties guide says it goes on the housing. My problem is my tail/brake lights, cluster, and windows aren't working. In the engine bay fuse box the 75 amp fuse labeled FL75A keeps blowing. I can't find a short anywhere. Thanks for any help
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:32 AM   #13278
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so my s14 was converted from auto to manual when i bought it and im acquiring z32 front brakes to upgrade. i was told that the auto bmc is stronger than the manual bmc, so i wont have to switch to the z32 bmc when i do the conversion. can anyone verify this?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:24 PM   #13279
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so my s14 was converted from auto to manual when i bought it and im acquiring z32 front brakes to upgrade. i was told that the auto bmc is stronger than the manual bmc, so i wont have to switch to the z32 bmc when i do the conversion. can anyone verify this?
It my might be.. but z32 one is bigger. With the small one u might have soft brake pedal

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Old 04-02-2013, 01:30 PM   #13280
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@I'm Redline
It looks like I'm getting power. The plug for the pump was massively corroded but after cleaning it I'm definitely getting power. I guess I'll pull the pump and hope that it's just really dirty.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:08 PM   #13281
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For some reason my posts tend to get avoided.

What does the ambient air temperature sensor do exactly? It got in the way of mounting my intercooler, so I pulled it out. Will my climate control be affected by the removal of it? Retaining A/C is one of my goals.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:23 PM   #13282
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It probably has something to do with the ac/heat. Not sure though.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:28 PM   #13283
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I have a problem with my car. I did a wire tuck and now it won't start. First thing I did was check all grounds and and check if all any wires were spliced. No problems were found so I'm stuck. The weird thing about the problem is that the RPM tach jumps when I try to turn the car on. The car itself does nothing, no crank or anything. I checked the starter and it was fine. Now when I was messing with it I forgot to plug the starter wire from the ignition, and this did not caused the RPMs to jump. Basically, connected starter wire for ignition=jumping rpms, and NOT connected starter wire=no jumping RPMS.

Any ideas?
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:00 PM   #13284
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It probably has something to do with the ac/heat. Not sure though.
It does. My question is what it actually does for the A/C & heat....
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:25 PM   #13285
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So my Car's Speedo is not working at all, but I have a KA speed sensor in my RB20 tranny and hooked up.

what to check?


also best place to put a temp sensor on RB20 to get best coolant temp readings..
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:29 PM   #13286
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how much power can the stock rb25 trans handle?
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:20 PM   #13287
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Alrighty just ordered some suspension parts, rims and tires.

One thing I am wondering, Since my tach don't work, IS IT SAFE to just rev me engine @ full boost until the ecu limits? ( not all the time ) but sometimes?
( Rb20 ) and when does the ECU cut? is it really 8500 rpm?
( with a good tune )
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:03 PM   #13288
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Thanks man. I was thinking that it would go on the frame but the wiring specialties guide says it goes on the housing. My problem is my tail/brake lights, cluster, and windows aren't working. In the engine bay fuse box the 75 amp fuse labeled FL75A keeps blowing. I can't find a short anywhere. Thanks for any help

It goes from the housing to the frame.

Check to make sure you main alternator wire isn't grounding out on the alternator case itself. Should have a plastic spacer between it and the case.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
For some reason my posts tend to get avoided.

What does the ambient air temperature sensor do exactly? It got in the way of mounting my intercooler, so I pulled it out. Will my climate control be affected by the removal of it? Retaining A/C is one of my goals.
I've never even knew it changed anything. Most just remove it and call it a day.

To retain working AC on the SR20 you'll need the DOHC components and compressor, the ECU working with the HVAC controls, and one of my conversion brackets
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:08 PM   #13289
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Thanks for your help Codyace, I'll check both those
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:09 PM   #13290
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Recently dash lights started to go dim and I was having acceleration issues, like the car would cut up and hesitate then catch itself while accelerating.
Today I started the car and seemed like it had a weak start. I turned car off after driving it then went to turn it back on and it would not start.
Just kept getting multiple clicks. When I took my key out, all my lights on my gauge cluster stayed lit? Jumping the car did not work.
Had to push start the car to get it to turn on.

Bad Alternator? Battery? Fuse?
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