Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by JBB

I have 10/8 springs and couldnt imagine going any stiffer. It would probably cause you to puke or rattle your kidneys into being inoperative

but as a track car that is run for 30 seconds a run once or twice a weekend. I could definitely survive that and there would be 0 suspension travel so I could set my suspension where I wanted it and not worry about body roll and rubbing the tires or the wires under the front fenders.

[Nikzilla]

I think I damaged the plastic bit on the nozzle of my #3 injector when I was pulling them out (SR20DET).

Is it okay?

The one on the left is damaged, the one on the right is non damaged


I also lost one of the metal washers that goes between the rubber bushing and the injector under the fuel rail cap. Doesn't look too important though.

[Jcoleman134]

Just installed some megan racing track coilovers on my s13 vert and they aren't very low friendly. I've already removed a collar from each corner. Any other suggestions?

[angel mkiv]

Originally Posted by JBB

Ouch, flipped the motor just to install the oil pan? :P Come on man, just get on the ground to do that! I would do as the other person suggested and bleed them again. It sucks to have to take out the cams and everything but would you rather do it now or when the motor is in the car?

Well the upper and lower oil pans and crank cover..but I used plenty of assembly lube on the inside of the rocker above the lifter so I feel like it all stayed in..no oil drops at all on the ground the whole time? Il just reprime them before installing then I guess

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

If everything is about suspension stiffness, then why hasn't a manufacturer come out with "coilovers" that are just solid struts that have an adjustable height? Most guys where I'm drifting don't daily their car at all, they're all track cars. Wouldn't it make sense to absolutely eliminate body roll since most guys are going slammed anyways?

Because they wouldn't have a name for them. They would just be referred to as ________. Elimination of the coil that is over the strut would eliminate the name of the suspension device, and it would be difficult for the manufacturers to come up with a new name for the suspension device without a coil over it.

"Hey dude, just bought some new __________ for my S13 track car! "

"Awesome "

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by JBB

Cheap and reliable dont go hand in hand. I wouldnt buy a knockoff turbo, but thats just my opinion.

Other things to consider:

-BC cams aren't degreed correctly and aren't the greatest unless you plan on getting adjustable cam gears -- then they can be really good. I would recommend HKS step 1's or some JWT cams if you dont want to upgrade your springs/retainers. If you've got titanium hardware then HKS step 2's are awesome and so are the JWT S4.

-Will your current clutch handle ~350ish ft/lbs of torque? If not, you'll need to upgrade that for that kind of horsepower, or run lower boost

-How are you tuning? Factor in the cost of a reflash if you're using an enthalpy tune, or $ for the tuner's time if using a standalone (probably not if you are going the cheap route)

-What size are your wheels and the tires on them? Will you even be able to put that power to the ground?

-Are you running stock brakes? 400hp with single piston calipers sounds like a death wish

-Do you have a generic tiny intercooler?

Its not always as easy at is seems...you know...buy a few parts and throw it on and hit that magic 400hp number

WTF is a 'step' cam??? STAGE I, STAGE II, STAGE III if you cannot remember the proper specs of the cam, at least get the lazy part right! . Stage I grinds typically have a little more duration and lift, and overlap than OE. Stage II requires aftermarket valve train components hand has higher lift, more overlap, and a lot more duration. Stage III, high lift, long duration, long overlap.
OE - 238, 242 Advertised duration. Numbers for duration at .050" are typically 33% or so less, maybe lower(A 278 has ~220 @ .050")
Stage I - 258 - 260, can be used with OE components and OE ECU in most cases
Stage II - 266 - 272, requires aftermarket valvetrain components and ECU tune, Headers, free flowing intake and exhaust

The build of the engine should dictate the use of the vehicle. A DD will work and perform better at Stage I or Stage II, as Stage III builds are overly aggressive for the street and have the street manners of a crack whore(none). For the track, drift will require a totally different set up than drag or road race/solo(Auto X). For DD and Auto X, Stage I set ups shine, and Stage II set ups work well on longer tracks with less technical parts. Stage III set ups kill on drift, drag, and road race, but you dang well better have Stage III skills and not OE skills when you decide to go there!
Stage III 280+, See required components for Stage II

[Maiku240sxS14]

Can anyone verify that the NEW Origin Lab Rear Overfenders for the S14, have higher arches than stock? It could be the picture on there site but it seems that the wheel arches are higher than stock.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Nikzilla

I think I damaged the plastic bit on the nozzle of my #3 injector when I was pulling them out (SR20DET).

Is it okay?

The one on the left is damaged, the one on the right is non damaged


I also lost one of the metal washers that goes between the rubber bushing and the injector under the fuel rail cap. Doesn't look too important though.

Speaking as someone who's been too lazy to replace a busted pintle cap and has no problems because of it....

You really need a new pintle cap. I no longer have the link, but google it, they're like $2.50 each.

You can also buy the rubber isolater part that your little metal bit came off. Personally, I'd cut it another piece of metal - that's not the kind of bushing that really compresses when it's in place, there might be a bit less support, and the injector might be more prone to leaky o-rings or something, I don't know.

[Muchua]

Does every S14 notchtop sr t28 fit each other? Like could a 97 t28 swap into a 95 setup?

Seems nooby, but I don't want to buy the wrong shit.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Muchua

Does every S14 notchtop sr t28 fit each other? Like could a 97 t28 swap into a 95 setup?

Seems nooby, but I don't want to buy the wrong shit.

They all fit. Some of the latter ones have a better CHRA. That has nothing to do with fitment.

[WERDdabuilder]

Originally Posted by Edwin562

I'm in need to upgrade my radiator before the summer comes... My only concern is, I have heard that some radiators require the OEM fan shroud to be trimmed and some radiators don't require trimming... my question is why, and which radiators don't require trimming if any apply.

This is going on a S13 SR20DET

sr /koyo rad + OEM shroud and I had to trim a little. Just used a box cutter and shaved off whatever was needed.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

If everything is about suspension stiffness, then why hasn't a manufacturer come out with "coilovers" that are just solid struts that have an adjustable height? Most guys where I'm drifting don't daily their car at all, they're all track cars. Wouldn't it make sense to absolutely eliminate body roll since most guys are going slammed anyways?

The term you are looking for is RIGID STRUT. For a car, even a track car with a heavily modified stiff set up, rigid struts would cause bounce, steering jump, and rear end hop. The springs are the last part of the suspension to absorb any tarmac bumps or surface differences. Also, remember, even F1 cars, the most advanced, fastest, cars on a track have coilover shocks and would never consider going to a rigid strut. There MUST be some point of flex in the suspension to absorb surface irregularities so the coils are it

[JBB]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

WTF is a 'step' cam??? STAGE I, STAGE II, STAGE III if you cannot remember the proper specs of the cam, at least get the lazy part right! . Stage I grinds typically have a little more duration and lift, and overlap than OE. Stage II requires aftermarket valve train components hand has higher lift, more overlap, and a lot more duration. Stage III, high lift, long duration, long overlap.
OE - 238, 242 Advertised duration. Numbers for duration at .050" are typically 33% or so less, maybe lower(A 278 has ~220 @ .050")
Stage I - 258 - 260, can be used with OE components and OE ECU in most cases
Stage II - 266 - 272, requires aftermarket valvetrain components and ECU tune, Headers, free flowing intake and exhaust

The build of the engine should dictate the use of the vehicle. A DD will work and perform better at Stage I or Stage II, as Stage III builds are overly aggressive for the street and have the street manners of a crack whore(none). For the track, drift will require a totally different set up than drag or road race/solo(Auto X). For DD and Auto X, Stage I set ups shine, and Stage II set ups work well on longer tracks with less technical parts. Stage III set ups kill on drift, drag, and road race, but you dang well better have Stage III skills and not OE skills when you decide to go there!
Stage III 280+, See required components for Stage II

They are called HKS "STEP" 1, STEP 2, etc.
http://www.frsport.com/HKS-22002-AN0...3_p_16527.html

[Purestock240]

OK so I have an RSEnthalpy tune for n62 maf, and having a bit of trouble with hooking it up.
There's a million pages on how to wire them, anyone point me to the right one as some are different?

also where are you putting the MAF? in the stock location? can you do it with the stock intake pipe? because I can't get the stock pipe to fit over it and cant find any adaptors anywhere to get it to work! I'd like to keep it as simple as possible

[acslater9]

Does anyone know how to tighten the spring on the throttle cable unit? I just noticed that the entire unit is loose. It has never done that before.

[rookie]

Hey dudes, gonna change tranny fluid but dnt know what weight. Im gonna get amsoil but theres 2 types, 75w-90 and 5w-30. Which one is the correct one?

[mindshot]

I searched no spark. So now I'm asking I've got a redtop that has no spark. Fuel pump works. I have a 1993 q45 ignitor I wired it in by a diagram. Plus I have 3 plugs don't know we're they go. Is anyone in the fredericksburg
,partlow area I need help or I'm going to say screw it and take car motor and all to scrap yard ill take the 200 dollars over this headache

[JBB]

Ill give you $201 and pay the shipping

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by rookie

Hey dudes, gonna change tranny fluid but dnt know what weight. Im gonna get amsoil but theres 2 types, 75w-90 and 5w-30. Which one is the correct one?

Well, 5W-30 is motor oil for your engine...

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ASLQT-EA

If you had to choose between these two obviously choose 75W-90.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...e-gear-75w-90/

However, I highly recommend using GL-4 oil:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...r-lube-75w-90/

A lot of transmissions these days run completely fine with GL-5 gear oil, but older cars like 240s have transmissions that are more suitable with GL-4 oil. Im currently running that exact Amsoil GL-4 oil in my tranny right now. Basically, some of the chemicals in GL-5 oil that aren't present in GL-4 oil slowly eat away at the synchros in your transmission.

Something in your transmission that is slowly being eaten away doesn't really sound like a good thing.

Glad to see another person using Amsoil gear oil for their tranny fluid though.

[rookie]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

Well, 5W-30 is motor oil for your engine...

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ASLQT-EA

If you had to choose between these two obviously choose 75W-90.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...e-gear-75w-90/

However, I highly recommend using GL-4 oil:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...r-lube-75w-90/

A lot of transmissions these days run completely fine with GL-5 gear oil, but older cars like 240s have transmissions that are more suitable with GL-4 oil. Im currently running that exact Amsoil GL-4 oil in my tranny right now. Basically, some of the chemicals in GL-5 oil that aren't present in GL-4 oil slowly eat away at the synchros in your transmission.

Something in your transmission that is slowly being eaten away doesn't really sound like a good thing.

Glad to see another person using Amsoil gear oil for their tranny fluid though.

Thankyou sir.. i will be ordering today.

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by Purestock240

OK so I have an RSEnthalpy tune for n62 maf, and having a bit of trouble with hooking it up.
There's a million pages on how to wire them, anyone point me to the right one as some are different?

also where are you putting the MAF? in the stock location? can you do it with the stock intake pipe? because I can't get the stock pipe to fit over it and cant find any adaptors anywhere to get it to work! I'd like to keep it as simple as possible

As simple as possible? You can buy any of the aftermarket intake kits made for the z32 mafs like the apexi super suction($300+ new). More affordable ones can be found ie by isis(around $100 new). you can probably find or make one cheaper. I don't recall an adapter ever being made for the stock piping to be used with the z32 mafs. I could be wrong. You can probably add a reducer pipe between the stock piping and the mafs but it may end up being too long of a setup and run into your headlight or something. There isn't a lot of room right there. I have the Apexi kit and the filter is up against the bov. Fitment and space is something you should think about too, but I guess you won't know unless you have one. Personally, I'd go with one of the first options I listed above. A few options where people put the mafs, I have mine at the stock location: after filter before piping/turbo.

[acslater9]

Refer to this post please. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...86#post5623886

Thanks.

[vJilly]

does anyone know of a company that sells silvia fenders that arent vented and made to go with aero? want an oem look but people want a decent bit of coin for some fucked up metal ones.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Refer to this post please. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...86#post5623886

Thanks.

I would suggest following the cable all the way from where it connects from the throttle chamber to the pedal itself and see if anything is making contact with it, causing it to slowly return like that. It shouldn't be doing that, and if it is and you cannot clearly see what is wrong, there must be something little making contact with it.

Also, if you cannot absolutely find anything, disassemble the intake plastic piping from the air filter up to the throttle chamber to see if there is anything inside the throttle chamber causing it to slowly close.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by vJilly

does anyone know of a company that sells silvia fenders that arent vented and made to go with aero? want an oem look but people want a decent bit of coin for some fucked up metal ones.

Were you looking for something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1994-Si...2e0874&vxp=mtr

Non-vented on the side (which is what I'm assuming you're looking for), but have thin venting on the rear part.

[vJilly]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

Were you looking for something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1994-Si...2e0874&vxp=mtr

Non-vented on the side (which is what I'm assuming you're looking for), but have thin venting on the rear part.

should have clarified my bad. non-widebody as well. want an oem look without oem fenders that are beat to shit. like i said im sorry i should have clarified.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

I would suggest following the cable all the way from where it connects from the throttle chamber to the pedal itself and see if anything is making contact with it, causing it to slowly return like that. It shouldn't be doing that, and if it is and you cannot clearly see what is wrong, there must be something little making contact with it.

Also, if you cannot absolutely find anything, disassemble the intake plastic piping from the air filter up to the throttle chamber to see if there is anything inside the throttle chamber causing it to slowly close.

That was what I actually did. I went under to see if there was anything blocking or getting in the way of the pedal but nothing. At first the pedal was not even returning to its original position, but now its doing it. This honestly is the most craziest thing I have experienced while owning a 240 so far.

Tomorrow I will dissassemble the intake piping to see what in the hell is going on. Thanks.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

I would suggest following the cable all the way from where it connects from the throttle chamber to the pedal itself and see if anything is making contact with it, causing it to slowly return like that. It shouldn't be doing that, and if it is and you cannot clearly see what is wrong, there must be something little making contact with it.

Also, if you cannot absolutely find anything, disassemble the intake plastic piping from the air filter up to the throttle chamber to see if there is anything inside the throttle chamber causing it to slowly close.

Just checked and nothing, I even sprayed some throttle body cleaner in there. Still does the same thing, I'm stumped.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

[ShakotanGazelle]

How much is an uncracked HUD windshield worth? Painting my car and since it's RHD I have no use for it.

[solo_ryder]

Quick sr20 question.

If I have a redtop and swap over the t25 for a forced performance big t28 (gtir guts, t25 housing) will I need a retune if I run stock or just over stock boost pressures?