Is this worth it?

[dalo95]

A little background is that I'm looking to purchase a 240sx with an rb or sr swapped already into it when I come back home from deployment. And have stumbled on this particular 240sx which looks great to me. It has a clean title its a 96 SE with a s1 rb25det.
The guy is asking $7500 with stock wheels and stock suspension. Is it worth it?
Thank you for your guys input in advance.

[Driftwire]

I would pay around 5500 for it. But stock suspension and wheels might appeal to some people more. Plus a complete engine build part list and complete mod list would be good to judge on price but if its just a rb slapped in then I wouldnt spend that much personally.

[Driftwurks]

Realistically, it's up to you, as the buyer, to judge whether or not it's worth buying. Some people like to stray away from purchasing pre-modified cars while others feel that you can save a lot of money by starting with a car that has the basics out of the way. If you're knowledgeable and know what you're getting into, it doesn't look like a bad car. The price is a bit on the high side in my opinion.

[dalo95]

Hey guys thanks for your input. This is the list of what is done to the vehicle "148K miles on chassis
S1 RB25DET with 70K miles on it
Kouki metal front end, Mckinney motor and transmission mounts, Wiring Specialties harness, APEXi SAFC, AEM Tru Boost, AEM wideband, AEM water temp gauge, front mount intercooler, Mishimoto radiator w/ two electric fans, Mishimoto cooler thermostat, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, aftermarket elbow, 3" straight pipe from elbow to Vibrant muffler, APEXi N1 Pro coilovers, Volk GT-V two piece wheels 18X9/18X10, Sony deck with Polk Audio speakers, ect..."

[dalo95]

Originally Posted by Driftwurks

Realistically, it's up to you, as the buyer, to judge whether or not it's worth buying. Some people like to stray away from purchasing pre-modified cars while others feel that you can save a lot of money by starting with a car that has the basics out of the way. If you're knowledgeable and know what you're getting into, it doesn't look like a bad car. The price is a bit on the high side in my opinion.

Yea man that's what I was thinking. To each his own I guess.

[jr_ss]

For something that could only be used as a track car in California, no, $7500 isn't worth it.

Now, if you live else where, it seems like a decent price. Let's put it this way, you couldn't build that car for $5500, let alone $7500. Now pictures don't tell you how it runs, nor do they show you suspect areas on the car.

Ultimately, I'd wait so you can check the car out in person.

Also, next time use the small questions thread. This doesn't require it's own thread, because honestly like was stated, the decision is up to you, not a bunch of random dudes on the web.

[dalo95]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

For something that could only be used as a track car in California, no, $7500 isn't worth it.

Now, if you live else where, it seems like a decent price. Let's put it this way, you couldn't build that car for $5500, let alone $7500. Now pictures don't tell you how it runs, nor do they show you suspect areas on the car.

Ultimately, I'd wait so you can check the car out in person.

I get what you are saying. I am having my father be my liason and check out the vehicle for me he is mechanically inclined so I trust him. And if the go is good from him ill take it. The vehicle will also be smogged and I have a buddy who can help me out when I'm in need of a smog.

And I apologize for putting it on the wrong thread. Just needed some advice on the situation.

[RalliartRsX]

It's also a 96, the first yar of OBD 2. This would pretty much not pass ANY emmissions test in about 49 of the 50 states. If you are in California, this won't pass Smog, Visual, nothing. This would have to be a track only vehicle.

Also, its a S1 RB. Fairly old engine as well.

I would walk personally............


EDIT: JUST saw you mentioned smog. So you are good there. Try to drive down the price some however.

[simmode1]

I think thats a very fair price, assuming it runs right. But if you ever lose your smog/inspection hook up, you're gonna be screwed.

[OBEEWON]

Fair price. Try buying all those parts separately and doing it yourself for that cheap. Its possible but not easy.

[zeitgeist]

Be careful about buying after a deployment. Give yourself a month or two or else youre going to impulse buy. If you find a car have it taken to a shop and put on a lift so you, your dad, and a mechanic can find all kinds of things wrong with the car. Then you can knock the price down. I bought impulsively after a deploment at a stupid price. Could have gotten it knocked down with all the defects. People will gladly rip you off. They dont care if youre military because all they see is dollars.
Look into the option of getti ng a stock car and have a shop put in your motor. May cost some more but you will know all about the car.Stay safe

[Kingtal0n]

Issue #1 is the car itself.

was the battery tray cut and if so how.
how are the frame rails
how is the pinch weld
any accidents, check the quarter panels, check for all vin tags, I see paint which might be hiding something
look at the power steering hard lines to see if they were mangled when the engine went in. it will tell you something about the skill level of the installer. Check for scrapes on the core support where an RB engine is likely to drag long scratch marks as it goes down and back.

Once you know the chassis is solid, that is a nice $2500~ clean base zenki to start with. Depends on the mileage.

Now we can move on to the parts list,
#1 what kind of engine mounts. Sometimes people buy them, some weld them in, find out how it was done.
#2 the exhaust can be tricky. get pictures of how the exhaust is run, what sorts of gaskets/clamps are you dealing with (for maintenance in the future) and what sort of ground clearance, how is the downpipe supported (is there a rubber support bracket)
#3 what wiring harness, and how was it wired in
#4 is the engine stock. Was it ever opened. How does the oil look. Hopefully it still has stock turbo/ecu/injectors and hopefully it was never pushed beyond 9psi like that.
#5 pertaining to the body again, I see kouki head lights. that means a conversion. which means fenders and body work. I avoid those cars because you cannot see how the body work was done, and I doubt the guy has pictures of it getting sanded up for paint.

Parts, value:
I see the oem intake crossover. And a huge battery. find out what brand intercooler it is.

A stock rb25det engine is a $2000 hunk of metal if its got good internals.
I see some gauges, a fancy steering wheel, perhaps it has a clutch, I see an aeromotive (make sure!) regulator, but that is about it, maybe $1500 in parts if they are brand new, including engine mounts / driveshaft.

So a $2500 car + $2000 engine +$1500 in parts is $6000 vehicle.
if the intercooler is a greddy add $400.
And the front end / paint is worth anywhere from $500-$2000 depends on how the paint was done. but we do not know how it was done.

End of the day, the car almost breaks even. But if the intercooler is chinese, and it has any chinese suspension parts underneath, and if the exhaust is anything but pristine welded rust free condition with a nice V-band or similar, or if the carfax shows a single accident, etc... I would walk away or offer about $5500. That way you have $2000 to replace the engine sitting on the side.


a note about that engine:
those engines can make good power but they need injectors/maf/ecu/turbo upgrades. Otherwise, the oem turbo can easily outrun the oem injectors and you wind up with ruined pistons. been there done that. And that means time for a new engine. Always buy a swapped car with the thought in the back of your mind that the engine is already toast. Because you know damn well the owner probably has his foot all the way down most of the time.

[Nizmology]

The price is worth it.