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Old 12-08-2012, 03:24 PM   #1
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s13 SR20DET no Idle w/ MAF plugged in

Hey guys, so i just dropped my WS harness into my car last night. Got it running but the car will not idle if i have the MAF plugged in. It will idle perfect at 1200 RPM with no MAF plugged in and it does its usual no rev over 2500rpm shit w/o the MAF. I also have a bad alternator and a friend of mine mentioned this might be a reason why it wont idle. Any thoughts? thanks guys!
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #2
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Also, if i have throttle the gas when im in the car, i can keep it running and when i drive it, it pulls amazing once the turbo kicks in around 3500RPM and the car runs great.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:57 PM   #3
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okay changed out alternator with a good one and still having the no idle issue. changed MAF with a good one, still wont idle. harmess is brand new from WS. at one time the motor did run fine before i bought it. thoughts?
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
It will idle perfect at 1200 RPM with no MAF plugged in
How can you say an idle of 1200rpm is perfect and then say with out the mafs plugged in, in the same sentence.
Quote:
Also, if i have throttle the gas when im in the car, i can keep it running and when i drive it, it pulls amazing once the turbo kicks in around 3500RPM and the car runs great.
This is also another idiotic statement. Stop driving the car.
Quote:
okay changed out alternator with a good one and still having the no idle issue. changed MAF with a good one, still wont idle. harmess is brand new from WS. at one time the motor did run fine before i bought it. thoughts?
This tells me a few things. One is, it's something you did to the car. Another is, your friend was wrong.

Now let's try to fix your car. Check the ecu for codes, post them here. clear codes. Check the voltage of the TPS, post the value here. or adjust to .45v Start the car with the MAFS connected keep it running until operating temp, Do whatever you have to do too keep it running without disconnecting anything. Once warmed up the car should stay running without your input.
While it's idling shoot the timing gun at the crank, post the time. Disconnect the TPS rev the engine too 3000rpm 3 times then shoot the crank again an post the time. adjust the idle to 800-850rpm, the n adjust timing to 15°, you may have to go back and fro from timing to idle. As long as you have 15° and 850rpm set you're good. Rev the engine to 3000rpm 3times again and plug in the tps shut down the car. start the car and this time it should just idle at about 850-900rpm if there is nothing else wrong. My suggestion is to test drive the car how it would normally be driven. Then check codes. YOU should probably do an oil change and spark plug change first.

This is assuming you don't have boostleaks or a blown engine etc. I may have missed something so just use it as a guide. I'll watch this thread for your input, so we can fix your half broken SR20.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:45 PM   #5
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lol well thanks for the info man. il check that tonight when i get off work!
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:01 PM   #6
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:24 AM   #7
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Sorry man I got out of work late and shit gets dark like 5pm here. Soon as I get a chance i'll post up what info I got. thanks for takin an interest!
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:56 PM   #8
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Okay so i havent had a chance yet to go down and get the codes read cause my base is having an inspection this week. but i did have a chance to read the TPS and i got .45 on signal and 5v on power. also, i checked the MAF wiring too the MAF and go 14v on power and .03 on the singal. so thats telling me something sup right there. think it should be at like 1.5v?
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:45 PM   #9
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so changed out maf again with another MAF after i changed my alternator to a working one and got the car runing. was a bad MAF mixed with a bad alternator haha. thanks.
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:18 PM   #10
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checking the ecu for codes, is usually the starting point of diagnostics.
clear and check codes again after repairs are made.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:20 PM   #11
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i wasnt able to check codes cause the tupid oreilys around here in little rock dont have the correct adapter. lol. cause not so JDM haha.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:31 PM   #12
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You can check the codes straight off of the ecu.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DriftVader View Post
i wasnt able to check codes cause the tupid oreilys around here in little rock dont have the correct adapter. lol. cause not so JDM haha.

Or because it's OBD1 and they didn't have the Consult plug (which 97% of all swaps isn't even wired in).

As Zar/cotbu pointed out, follow ECM diagnostics. Freeeeee.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:19 PM   #14
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omg zars sig scares me. thanks haha. i forgot i could do that! will tomorrow. thanks guys.
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:28 PM   #15
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Yeah sounds like possible wiring gremlins too here...
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