2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[Drink&Drift]

whatever you guys do DONT get the Dayco tensioner, just spent my day installing it, removing the radiator, buying new yota coolant, only to end up having the pulley bolt strip while i was releasing the slack to put the belt on. now its useless and i have to take it back out.

[articzap]

I have 6x FIC 2150's for sale. Just had them cleaned. Approximately 700 miles on them. $1000 shipped and insured anywhere in lower 48.

Just posting in here because it'll probably get more relevant views.

[NOLAGG]

Damn bro sorry to hear that.did it look like a decent piece? Return it.where'd you but it from? Pics?

[Drink&Drift]

Originally Posted by NOLAGG

Damn bro sorry to hear that.did it look like a decent piece? Return it.where'd you but it from? Pics?

its the Pep Boys Dayco brand one, the quality isnt nearly as good as OEM, but its 150$ cheaper. didnt take any pics, i got a new one and it worked fine, didnt really have a choice since the OEM ones take almost a week to get from Toyota.

[NOLAGG]

Originally Posted by Drink&Drift

its the Pep Boys Dayco brand one, the quality isnt nearly as good as OEM, but its 150$ cheaper. didnt take any pics, i got a new one and it worked fine, didnt really have a choice since the OEM ones take almost a week to get from Toyota.

Like I said advance auto sells the gates over which is basically a renamed oem.

[bova17]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

I heard the maverick plate is a better quality kit, what clutch are you using with your collins? Trying to figure out what clutch im going to go with when i do my cd009 swap. I want something good for 700tq & decently streetable

I bought the Competition Clutch stage 4.

Originally Posted by RickS14

Have you got in contact with Collins about your issues? His customer service is pretty good.Im waiting for my clutch set up. So I haven't completed my install.


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Originally Posted by NOLAGG

Are you serious? Call that dude man call him out on facebook then.I hate people who don't make things rightto a fair paying customer.especially for a custom piece that cost nearly a grand.my Collins adaptor is working well so far, although the paint is already conning off and is definitely boy worth his asking price imho.

Originally Posted by zbarsuglia

Yeah man. Especially since I bought his whole kit with driveline and everything and spent around 2k. And I'm not the only one with this problem. A buddy of mine got his and the plate was messed up as well.

I called them up to ask about the slave cylinder since I was not going to be using the stock and bought the Zspeed. I was not sure if it would need to be spaced out or not, also was wanting to know the distance between the bearing and pressure plate. Whomever I was talking to did not want to give me any info at all. They kept trying to get me to buy their spacer for the oem csc which as I found out I do not need.

Anyways, does anyone know what the gap between the pressure plate and bearing is?

Originally Posted by corkscrew

What's the best bracket/mount combination for maximum hood clearance? Seems like XM brackets with XM mounts don't allow you to close the hood without spacers

Mine fits pretty good but I have the ISR mounts that lower the engine about 5mm. The ISR are adjustable from 75mm to 65mm. Have not tried to put the hood on though.

Originally Posted by zbarsuglia

What shifter relocation are you using? I'm trying to retain stock hole
And when mounted I can see the end of the inspection plate. Only kit I've found that shortens it that much is the cbf mid mount. It mounts right behind the inspection plate. Others like hoke are way too far back. Only thing is the guy at cbf isn't responding about orders for them. So I'm stuck

I'm not sure I was going to talk to CBF performance. SerialNine is about to come out with one but I'm not sure of how it will fit. Albert on SupraMania is working on a cool setup but I think it is going to take a while for it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...kiii-group-buy

SerialNine:


This is where the trans sits:


Also have some pictures:

[JohanM]

If anyone is looking for stock 2jzgte vvti parts i have the following
-twin turbos with everything to the lines
-complete front sump oil pan for jz
-complete intake manifold with stock injectors throttle body(can part out)
-valve covers
-2jzgte vvti harness (missing a few plugs)
-starter
-Alternator
-12 tooth Lower Timing Pulley with Tig Welded Trigger Wheel (new)
-coils (vvti)

[BlackZenkiS14]

Fuck my life, anyone wanna just buy this god damned thing?

Replaced caps, added grounds, still runs like dick. I guess you can say it runs marginally better, like maybe it runs like dick more inconsistently, broken up by brief periods of it running normal, but thats it. I was able to make 3 strong hard WOT pulls, but it broke up down low until it finally cleared its throat and ripped. Other times it just chokes and gargles the whole time under load.

I'm still going to try to track down a known-good 4row ECU to try, because I am only like 95% sure about the capacitor repair job that we did. There was some damage on the board, but we did the best to repair it.

After that, what's next guys? ECU, ignitor, what else can cause a random misfire?

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

what else can cause a random misfire?

Wiring harness....

If you need a 4 row ECU i have two of them!

[articzap]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Fuck my life, anyone wanna just buy this god damned thing?

Replaced caps, added grounds, still runs like dick. I guess you can say it runs marginally better, like maybe it runs like dick more inconsistently, broken up by brief periods of it running normal, but thats it. I was able to make 3 strong hard WOT pulls, but it broke up down low until it finally cleared its throat and ripped. Other times it just chokes and gargles the whole time under load.

I'm still going to try to track down a known-good 4row ECU to try, because I am only like 95% sure about the capacitor repair job that we did. There was some damage on the board, but we did the best to repair it.

After that, what's next guys? ECU, ignitor, what else can cause a random misfire?

On my old 240 that had a CA in it, I had random misfires which were caused by a loose connection to the MAF extension harness. So any modifications done to the harness should be double and triple checked for a good connection.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Well, tonight, we tried 3 different ECU's, 1 absolutely known good ECU from a running/driving car. No change at all.

Tried a different known good ignitor, not the problem

We back-probed the ECU connectors at the harness and checked continuity to ground, and confirmed that all pins needing ground are getting it. Also tested continuity for ground at different points on the engine itself, including the 2 eyelets for the harness that feed the ground signal, all tested good.

Tried to wire in a test light to check codes, and either did it wrong, or it had no codes...

The only thing we are thinking is somehow the coilpacks are not receiving a strong enough voltage signal, and are able to fire the cheap Chinese .8ohm coils, but not enough voltage to fire the 1.1ohm Denso coils. So next we are going to try to feed a dedicated 12V signal directly to the coil packs so that they have a known good voltage source, as now they are receiving their power through the harness....

Any other ideas? This is so fucking stupid.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Anyone have a HKS Twin-Power DLI for 1JZ (JZX90) they want to sell? Maybe that'll fix it?

[supercompact]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Anyone have a HKS Twin-Power DLI for 1JZ (JZX90) they want to sell? Maybe that'll fix it?

Have you thought about moving over to the GM truck coils? That might be an option, if you are planning to go standalone later.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by supercompact

Have you thought about moving over to the GM truck coils? That might be an option, if you are planning to go standalone later.

Not going stand alone, and already have BRAND NEW FACTORY OEM Denso coils

[BlackZenkiS14]

Well holy shit. I finally figured it out, and it was absolutely ridiculous, as expected.

When we started to go through the ignition system wiring harness, to test voltages at the coil, we figured out that one of the coil pack connectors had the polarity switched on the connector. So Somehow, when we were doing the wiring at 4am we must have not payed attention when installing the new coil pack plugs.

Once we swapped the wires around on that connector, it fired right up smooth, and runs its ass off, finally!

Which is all really weird, because somehow the Chinese coils didnt care about polarity and would run near perfect, but the Denso coils needed to have the polarity a specific way. Odd, but so thankful to finally have it figured out! Now after 3 years, I can finally start enjoying this thing!

[articzap]

All that matters is that it is fixed!

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by articzap

All that matters is that it is fixed!

Dude, no shit! I spent 2 years chasing down an electrical demon in my old SR, hand built race engine that made 420whp, never could figure it out, and sold it in favor of a "more reliable" 1JZ, then to have a very similar problem...it was rather frustrating, car almost made it to the market just to be done with it. I'm so stoked its running well finally!

[supercompact]

That's awesome man! Great job tracking it down. Perseverance FTW!


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[NOLAGG]

Glad to hear black zenki....

[Drink&Drift]

sort of unrelated to the JZ but what is everyone running for Axles? seems like the stock ones get plenty of play in them after some abuse.

[bmaddock]

Congrats man! and thanks for sharing some of your experience chasing and finding the solution. Too often are problems posted about but rarely the solutions and process to finding them.

Ran my 1J at the track for the first time this past weekend. Went really well and can't wait to build some more confidence and really start using all my power.

[Mister.E]

Anyone happen to know the thread pitch of the banjo bolt on the back of the 1JZ non-vvti intake manifold? I am getting ready to order some thing from Summit and I have been entertaining the idea of replacing that bolt with an AN hose setup.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Well. It runs hard when it starts! lol

What causes hard start issues with these things?

Past 3 days I try to start it, it'll crank and crank but won't fire. Burp and gurgle occasionally. I have to unplug my fans otherwise my battery will die before it finally fires properly.

Then when it does finally start, after a few minutes of working it, it'll idle very low, and barely run, and if you give it any gas it'll bog and die. Takes a few minutes of idling until you can start revving it normal...

Then once it's warmed up, it'll start and run just fine. But if it goes 24hrs without running, it has a hard time firing.... any ideas?

[Koguchi240jz]

I'm sure people have gone over this on this thread but just curious if anyone has ran into trouble with the CX racing 2jz to s13 turbo manifold, I had purchased this knowing that I might have to drill some of the holes on the flange for the threads to actually line up but the threads on 4/6 on the bottom part of the flange are too long. I replaced the threads with shorter ones but I don't feel safe with running any kind of decent power on such short threads. And even with the shorter threads I still can't get a bolt on the thread because the manifold is still in the way. And please don't bash about me being cheap and going the CX racing route, i bought the manifold after having called the company and having someone there re assure me that I needed to do no modification to the manifold or my motor, and I needed to know it would at least fit in my engine bay.

[Koguchi240jz]

I can't seem to post pictures from my phone, I will when I get to a computer

[bova17]

Originally Posted by Koguchi240jz

I'm sure people have gone over this on this thread but just curious if anyone has ran into trouble with the CX racing 2jz to s13 turbo manifold, I had purchased this knowing that I might have to drill some of the holes on the flange for the threads to actually line up but the threads on 4/6 on the bottom part of the flange are too long. I replaced the threads with shorter ones but I don't feel safe with running any kind of decent power on such short threads. And even with the shorter threads I still can't get a bolt on the thread because the manifold is still in the way. And please don't bash about me being cheap and going the CX racing route, i bought the manifold after having called the company and having someone there re assure me that I needed to do no modification to the manifold or my motor, and I needed to know it would at least fit in my engine bay.

I have fixed your pictures, next time hit "get links" next to the picture and use the drop down to select "forum."

Anyways my SR20 ebay manifold, very similar to cxracing, had to be angled and put a few nuts on since it was so close to the runner. That is what I would recommend for some of them for you, on the other ones not too sure what to tell you. I think that 3 threads per stud/nut will be fine for a few; but you could always move to a finer thread.

[bmaddock]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Well. It runs hard when it starts! lol

What causes hard start issues with these things?

Past 3 days I try to start it, it'll crank and crank but won't fire. Burp and gurgle occasionally. I have to unplug my fans otherwise my battery will die before it finally fires properly.

Then when it does finally start, after a few minutes of working it, it'll idle very low, and barely run, and if you give it any gas it'll bog and die. Takes a few minutes of idling until you can start revving it normal...

Then once it's warmed up, it'll start and run just fine. But if it goes 24hrs without running, it has a hard time firing.... any ideas?

Pull your spark plugs, turn the fuel pump on and look for mist coming out of the cylinder holes. Sounds like leaky injector to me. You might be able to see it with a flashlight but usually it will mist out of the hole.

If you're unsure, pull the rail, prime the pump and see if any leak.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by bmaddock

Pull your spark plugs, turn the fuel pump on and look for mist coming out of the cylinder holes. Sounds like leaky injector to me. You might be able to see it with a flashlight but usually it will mist out of the hole.

If you're unsure, pull the rail, prime the pump and see if any leak.

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

I actually found it to be a bad connection at the coolant temp sensor, and now it works perfect! Car ran its ass off all weekend!

[kkaleher]

Got my 2j running and broken in!!!! Started to tune in some boost on the 6265, super responsive spool!!! Couple ?s for you 2j guys. 1) with the r154 and factory s13 4.08 vlsd i feel like 5th gear at 3k rpm on the hwy is at about 55mph (ugggh no speedo). 2) i have a koyo KA rad, mishi low temp stat, good pusher fans (dont remember flow rate), and my temps when cruisjng down the hwy and beating on it git 215deg!!! This scares me

[articzap]

Originally Posted by kkaleher

Got my 2j running and broken in!!!! Started to tune in some boost on the 6265, super responsive spool!!! Couple ?s for you 2j guys. 1) with the r154 and factory s13 4.08 vlsd i feel like 5th gear at 3k rpm on the hwy is at about 55mph (ugggh no speedo). 2) i have a koyo KA rad, mishi low temp stat, good pusher fans (dont remember flow rate), and my temps when cruisjng down the hwy and beating on it git 215deg!!! This scares me

Let's cover some of the basics. The extra RPM's from the final drive are not helping when it comes to heat generation.

With that said, some general rules of thumb for helping remove heat.

-Switch the fan(s) to pullers. They're about 10-15% more efficient this way.
-Add a shroud around the fan(s) to make the effective fan area higher, again creating more efficiency. Very important to make sure you get the depth of the fan blades correct into the shroud to properly make this work.
-Add an air dam between IC and radiator support. This will drive air up in the radiator. Super effective.
-Run a big ass oil cooler to help pull heat from the engine.
-If all of that fails, raise the back of the hood. This gives the air a place to go, thus dropping engine bay temps and water temps.