EGR delete vacuum line setup

[too sheep]

Hi guys,

I ran into some trouble a couple of weeks ago when i tried to start my car after driving it for a couple of minutes and it ran awful and started misfiring like crazy. Went about replacing my MAF, O2, FPR, checked the TEmp sensors, tps, knock sensor. To no avail, still missfires when ever it heats up. My EGR had been deleted by the guy that owned the car before me and he did an awful job.

I think i might have got a batch of bad gas, cause the car to run really rough and knocked a vacuum line loose.

here is what the normal vacuum setup looks like



Here is what mine looks like




GREEN is an open hose that doesn't push or pull air
RED is a Capped hose
BLUE push and pull air


Thanks for the input guys

[racepar1]

Yeah, your vacuum lines are all fucked up. The green one off the FPR should go to manifold vacuum. If the butterfly valves in the intake are not deleted, they are not operating and it's probably slow as fuck. I would reccomend you put it all back together like it's supposed to be...

[too sheep]

I'll bring the FPR vacuum up to the manifold vacuum. I tried hooking it up to the little T-piece but it didn't help. BTW, i checked my codes the other night, it said i threw 11 13 21 34, but when i reset it and let the car run for about 20 minutes until it died it would only throw code 55(the nothings wrong code) haha. So Im not sure what to think and vac diagrams are hard enough to find/read let alone trying to figure out where stuff goes after part has been taken out. Thanks for the input man

[too sheep]

hooked up the FPR to the intake manifold still shakes itself to death once warm, does anyone know how the rest of them should be set up....Im working on it right now, so quick replies would be appreciated

[powermymotor]

damn that is alot of vacuum lines -_-

[LiL_AzN_FLiP]

You'd need to drive the car at least 15-20 miles for your computer to reset, driving allows the egr valve to open and close among other things! Then recheck for codes, new codes should pop up. Other than that, all vacuum lines should be plugged at all time or HOOKed up properly. good luck

[too sheep]

Alright, so i cleaned up all my grounds the other night especially the ground that runs from the intake manifold to the battery tray. I have the extra ground that runs to the strut tower.

Ran the vacuum from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the male vacuum on the intake manifold like someone suggested earlier and plugged or ran the other vac lines into themselves.

Still didn't help

Replaced the Coolant temperature sensor didn't help the problem

but now the car is only throwing 11 13 and 14(speed sensor)

Any ideas on what it is Im thinking crank angle sensor. I heat wrapped my headers, and that keeps the engine bay a bit cooler. The car still backfires like twostep and then dies. BUT ONLY AFTER DRIVING 20 or so minutes. My timing is a bit off, but i don't think that would make that big of a difference hot to cold (some difference not car shut off and die difference).

Thanks for input