RB FAQ

[eklips3]

engine harness question here ...

i have a harness that was made for a RB20 in a single cam 240 .

now my concern is that would i be able to use the harness with a dual cam 240 ?

im guessing right now that you could use it no problem without having to make any changes , but i just wanna make sure here.

[Tenchuu]

for clarification on the spark plugs:
Spark Plugs - Skylines Australia

FOR COPPER

They are good to 5k last at least 10k up to 40k

NGK for RB25det................. BKR6EYA or Platimum PFR5G-11
NGK for rb20/26det............. BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11
NGK for RB25NEOdet............ BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11

For PLATINUM

Good to 80k


NGK for RB25det................. PFR5G-11
NGK for rb20/26det............. PFR6A-11
NGK for RB25NEOdet............ PFR6A-11
NGKs Website


For IRIDIUM

Good to 150k

NKG for RB25det................ BKR5EIX-11
NKG for RB25neo............... BKR6EIX-11
NKG for RB20/26det........... BCPR6EIX-11
Denso for Rb25det............. IK20
Denso for Rb25det.. cold.... IK22

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by eklips3

engine harness question here ...

i have a harness that was made for a RB20 in a single cam 240 .

now my concern is that would i be able to use the harness with a dual cam 240 ?

im guessing right now that you could use it no problem without having to make any changes , but i just wanna make sure here.

Pretty sure KA24E and DE power plugs are the same, cluster's different though.

[eklips3]

sweeet thanx jordan

[eh?]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

I realized this weekend that the ignition pinouts for the RB25DE/DET FSM and the translated Japanese ECCS schematic I have are different ~ since I couldn't match up wire colors (redid the whole harness in Mil-spec ETFE wire),.

How did you wire in the connectors? Did you splice in the stock connectors?

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by eh?

How did you wire in the connectors? Did you splice in the stock connectors?

Yup, most places took the insulation all the way down and soldered to the 3/4" behind the crimp. The big gain (besides pimp factor) is when tucking and looming, since the Mil-spec insulation is much thinner. All the bundles stay nice and small, and easy to route.

[wannabe_drifter]

eklips3: Pretty much every thing is the same in the wiring of a dohc and a sohc. 2-3 wire colors changes, 1 plug changes color, but its basically the same.

[951's 330i]

Ok so i am back again with pretty much the same problem but now confused about it more.

So if you read a page back, i had problems with the car bogging really bad and then dieing on me. Sometimes it would start but no rev past 2k with or without the mafs on. Then it would just not start at all with or without the mafs on. Didnt try starting it for a while and then it would work again for a couple of minutes

So i left to mexico thinking it was just the mafs and i was planning on changing it when i got back.

Well now that im back, i tried turning it on one more time and now its working again as if nothing ever happened. No dieing, no nothing, except the usual hesitation when i slam on the gas.

Because of this, im thinking it still may be the mafs(green label which i think is the S1 sensor and my motor is suppose to be a S1) but since it works even with out the mafs except not passing 2 and a half rpm, i am starting to think it can either be the Fuel pump or maybe an electrical problem.

Question is should i just go ahead and just get the z32 mafs?
Should i just get a new fuel pump first?
Maybe i need a better tune?
Maybe new injectors and it could be a fuel problem since they werent even changed when the swap was done i guess.
Drive the car off a cliff and call my insurance company and call it a day?

Lol, well any help is appreciated. Thanks to all who have been a great help. Also another thing, i think i am running to rich? WHen i changed the spark plugs, they smelled like pure gas? Not sure if thats rich or lean or wtfail.

[sleeper108]

to the above post, It sounds like you are running very rich. You may want to check into your injectors, see if there is a bad seal (friend's SR suffered similar issues) and start working through all your potential fuel problems that will make it run rich.

[eklips3]

i dont think its a maf problem . a motor will still start up with a bad maf or the maf not even plugged in.

could be something to do with ignition. i think you either have bad ignitor chip or it could be bad coil packs. im leaning more towards bad coil packs.

best replacement for RB coil packs is brand new OEM . expensive but worth every penny. much better then the afternarket splitfire coil packs .

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

i dont think its a maf problem . a motor will still start up with a bad maf or the maf not even plugged in.

could be something to do with ignition. i think you either have bad ignitor chip or it could be bad coil packs. im leaning more towards bad coil packs.

best replacement for RB coil packs is brand new OEM . expensive but worth every penny. much better then the afternarket splitfire coil packs .

Thats what my cousin was thinking about the coil packs. Its still running fine right now, but im still scared that its just going to die on me any minute

[roboticnissan]

I'm having similar bogging problems with my rb20 but my car doesn't die at all. It still runs but I'm getting robbed of like 50% of my power when it is bogging. I notice that my iacv is wide open and it runs better what's telling my iacv to open is trying to fix my bogging?? What tells the iacv what to do?

[roboticnissan]

I'm having similar bogging problems with my rb20 but my car doesn't die at all. It still runs but I'm getting robbed of like 50% of my power when it is bogging. I notice that my iacv is wide open and it runs better what's telling my iacv to open is trying to fix my bogging?? What tells the iacv what to do? My ecu? My maf?

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

Thats what my cousin was thinking about the coil packs. Its still running fine right now, but im still scared that its just going to die on me any minute

its definatley possible that it might die while driving.

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

I'm having similar bogging problems with my rb20 but my car doesn't die at all. It still runs but I'm getting robbed of like 50% of my power when it is bogging. I notice that my iacv is wide open and it runs better what's telling my iacv to open is trying to fix my bogging?? What tells the iacv what to do? My ecu? My maf?

well the main cause of bogging is a faulty or dirty maf .
but the iacv should be controlled by the ecu. that would be my best bet since there is a connector for it.

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

its definatley possible that it might die while driving.
.

Actually it has died while driving. And it started acting up again yesterday. Turned it on, was ok for like 2 minutes and then slowly started dropping in rpms. Took off mafs and it died right away. Tried turning it on while it was still disconnected, wouldnt start. Connected, running normal again.

[eklips3]

sounds exactly like your coil packs are on their last leg of life .

that will happen that your car will run for a bit then start to die . then after its been dead or off for a while , it gives time for the coil packs to either cool or recuperate or whatever they have to do.

try this , pull your coil packs, pull off the rubber insulator that slides onto the coil pack. then you will see that there is just a small spring sticking out from the coil. pull out that spring .. carefully ! dont loose it. once you have that spring out take a q-tip and clean that spot that you just pulled the spring out from. this is a good idea because that spot could get a little corroded and effect the performance of your coilpacks.


but even after doing that im still sceptical that it will fix your problem . im almost 100% sure you will need new ones.

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

sounds exactly like your coil packs are on their last leg of life .

that will happen that your car will run for a bit then start to die . then after its been dead or off for a while , it gives time for the coil packs to either cool or recuperate or whatever they have to do.

try this , pull your coil packs, pull off the rubber insulator that slides onto the coil pack. then you will see that there is just a small spring sticking out from the coil. pull out that spring .. carefully ! dont loose it. once you have that spring out take a q-tip and clean that spot that you just pulled the spring out from. this is a good idea because that spot could get a little corroded and effect the performance of your coilpacks.


but even after doing that im still sceptical that it will fix your problem . im almost 100% sure you will need new ones.

I think i might just go ahead and buy some new ones.

Heres a theory though, and it may be not really accurate at all. But its just something i kinda noticed.

It seems that the car has these problems the day after it rains. Like if i dont use it at all on a rainy day, when i go to turn it on thats when it wont work. I realized that, thats when the first problems started. I decided not to drive it one day when it was raining due to the fact that my wipers wouldnt work here and there (different problem). Then when i went to turn it on the next day, it didnt work.

At that time i just sprayed mafs cleaner and it seemed to work. But then when the problems persisted, and the cleaner didnt work, thats when i didnt know what to do anymore. It has yet to die on me or not start since our last day it rained which was the last time i posted.

Any sites for OEM coil packs? I googled but only found aftermarket and dont know if any of those are any good

[Couped_up'd]

I have ones that work, but they are used. 15bux a peice. Otherwize you should do the GM coil pack convertion.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Couped_up'd

I have ones that work, but they are used. 15bux a peice. Otherwize you should do the GM coil pack convertion.

The only people I've seen using LSx coils have aftermarket ECU's ~ my question is whether the LSx coils are compatible with the OEM Nissan igniter chip setup and what's the dwell time?

[bardabe]

Jordan, why don't you do the GM, Regal/ Grand National Coil Pack convertion the guys that have that set up Love it. and it lets you keep your stock igniter

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

I think i might just go ahead and buy some new ones.

Heres a theory though, and it may be not really accurate at all. But its just something i kinda noticed.

It seems that the car has these problems the day after it rains. Like if i dont use it at all on a rainy day, when i go to turn it on thats when it wont work. I realized that, thats when the first problems started. I decided not to drive it one day when it was raining due to the fact that my wipers wouldnt work here and there (different problem). Then when i went to turn it on the next day, it didnt work.

At that time i just sprayed mafs cleaner and it seemed to work. But then when the problems persisted, and the cleaner didnt work, thats when i didnt know what to do anymore. It has yet to die on me or not start since our last day it rained which was the last time i posted.

Any sites for OEM coil packs? I googled but only found aftermarket and dont know if any of those are any good

hmm .. that problem sounds odd with rain being an issue. but i'll tell you , you dont need the maf to start the car . the maf is only there for when load is being applied to the car .

the fact that it was raining thst day might have been a random occurrence.

finding brand new oem coil packs online is impossible. just try phoning some nissan dealerships around your area that carry JDM parts.

you could go with the GM coil pack conversion. this is the first time i heard about that though. but depending on how hard it is , which im sure its not too hard depending on whats needed, go for it cause im guessing it would be the cost effective method for coilpacks.

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

hmm .. that problem sounds odd with rain being an issue. but i'll tell you , you dont need the maf to start the car . the maf is only there for when load is being applied to the car .

the fact that it was raining thst day might have been a random occurrence.

finding brand new oem coil packs online is impossible. just try phoning some nissan dealerships around your area that carry JDM parts.

you could go with the GM coil pack conversion. this is the first time i heard about that though. but depending on how hard it is , which im sure its not too hard depending on whats needed, go for it cause im guessing it would be the cost effective method for coilpacks.

Lol whats funny is that right after i wrote this, it broke down on me again, and it wasnt raining lol. At first i thought it was something gettting wet. But now that it happened yesterday, and it was pretty hot, i know thats not the issue lol

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

The only people I've seen using LSx coils have aftermarket ECU's ~ my question is whether the LSx coils are compatible with the OEM Nissan igniter chip setup and what's the dwell time?

If they do work with OEM parts then thats were im going to be headed.

Originally Posted by bardabe

Jordan, why don't you do the GM, Regal/ Grand National Coil Pack convertion the guys that have that set up Love it. and it lets you keep your stock igniter

Hey bardabe, do you think you could do a quick look over at my wiring. I just looked at the ecu wiring and that ish looks all F'ed up. Plus i see some wires that arent event connected to eachother. Let me know if you have time just to give me your opinion on them. Thanks

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by bardabe

Jordan, why don't you do the GM, Regal/ Grand National Coil Pack convertion the guys that have that set up Love it. and it lets you keep your stock igniter

I'm definitely thinking about it lol. LSx coils would be preferable, but like I posted above, I'm not sure if they're compatible. They're half price of new OEM Nissan coilpacks though, so I'm very tempted to try.

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

If they do work with OEM parts then thats were im going to be headed.

Hey bardabe, do you think you could do a quick look over at my wiring. I just looked at the ecu wiring and that ish looks all F'ed up. Plus i see some wires that arent event connected to eachother. Let me know if you have time just to give me your opinion on them. Thanks

Juan's one of the only people (besides myself ) that I'd recommend for wiring and technical troubleshooting, consider this a *vouch* for Bardabe Perf Development!

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

I'm definitely thinking about it lol. LSx coils would be preferable, but like I posted above, I'm not sure if they're compatible. They're half price of new OEM Nissan coilpacks though, so I'm very tempted to try.



Juan's one of the only people (besides myself ) that I'd recommend for wiring and technical troubleshooting, consider this a *vouch* for Bardabe Perf Development!

Lol im guessing Juan is Bardabe right? Just making sure. Hell which ever one you has a chance i dont mind. I know for sure both of you know more then i ever could lol

[mrflip69]

Funny you guys are talking about this. Check the RB section on NICO, someone just posted their LS2 setup off a vette.

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by mrflip69

Funny you guys are talking about this. Check the RB section on NICO, someone just posted their LS2 setup off a vette.

Hey thanks for that, imma check it out right now.

[951's 330i]

Ok so im still not sure what to do. After talking to my cousin, he thinks that it isnt the coil packs but more of a computer problem. His reasonings are that if it was the coils that say if only three of them failed the car would still run but have a nasty idle. And since my car wont start it means that they all failed which is probably a computer problem.

The more info i get from people the more harder it is to choose on wth to do with the car. Seeing as money is kinda tight right now, and i yet to recieve my money back from a certain vendor, its kinda hard to choose what to do, and then find out that w.e. i chose wasnt it.

Edit: Anyone know of a shop that specializes in Rb's? Shop that they can vouch for themselves or have had work done by them in Socal? Thanks

[eklips3]

have you run the ecu diagnostic yet ? im pretty sure there is a code for ecu problems

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

have you run the ecu diagnostic yet ? im pretty sure there is a code for ecu problems

Na i dont even know how to do that. Can i use any regular scanner? Imma search it right now