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Old 06-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #1021
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I wish i can make it idle or even turn on the car ^
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:05 PM   #1022
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I have an F8 23710 1w301 ecu is that the reason why my rb20 isn't firing?
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:03 AM   #1023
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is anyone doing the swap in an s13 running the isis radiator? is it reliable with this swap
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:57 PM   #1024
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quick question, my first swap. When making the custom throttle cable bracket for rb20 in s14. how much of the throttle body needs to be open or is it fully closed position ?
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:20 AM   #1025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fearlessKouki View Post
quick question, my first swap. When making the custom throttle cable bracket for rb20 in s14. how much of the throttle body needs to be open or is it fully closed position ?

Where ever the butterfly valve sits with no cable connected is where it should be with a cable connected.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:05 AM   #1026
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Where ever the butterfly valve sits with no cable connected is where it should be with a cable connected.
perfect thanks alot!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:01 PM   #1027
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Which thermostat is recommended for rb25? Mine is opening in 210F! Too hot.. Should i go nismo 144 t-stat or a 180 t-stat?
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:17 PM   #1028
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Quote:
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Wrong! The ka and rb speed sensors are different. From what I've read a z32 na speed sensor should get your speedo within a couple miles and is a direct fit, from what I've read though. I haven't tried it yet since I'm broke but it will be my next purchase.

As for the tach, without a 10k resistor it won't be accurate. I have mine turned all the way to the left and it's off 400 rpm until I get to like 6 then it's off 1-1500 rpm.
the z32 na speed sensor does not work.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #1029
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Can the Rb26 damper pulley work on a Rb20? I know the 25 can just need to change the powersteering pump belt from 4 tooth to 3 tooth.
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:38 PM   #1030
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Quote:
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the z32 na speed sensor does not work.
Have you tried this personally? Cause apparently dozens of people have used the na 300zx speed sensor with no problems. There could be a chance they keep the rb25 sensor and swap the gears on the ends. I will post back when I finally get the speed sensor. It's kinda last on the list.
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #1031
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Have you tried this personally? Cause apparently dozens of people have used the na 300zx speed sensor with no problems. There could be a chance they keep the rb25 sensor and swap the gears on the ends. I will post back when I finally get the speed sensor. It's kinda last on the list.
yes. if i recall correctly the gears were the same length but the plug on the z32 was different from the rb25. also now that i am thinking about it i doubt that has anything to do with the speed sensor or the gear but had something to do in the wiring in the cluster or the ecu. i remember on another forum nicoclub that a member there was modifying cluster(speedo and tach) to work with rb25 swaps. that is what leads me to believe that it has something to do with the cluster. i just eventually gave up on the speedo and tach issue.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:00 PM   #1032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroom_vroom View Post
yes. if i recall correctly the gears were the same length but the plug on the z32 was different from the rb25. also now that i am thinking about it i doubt that has anything to do with the speed sensor or the gear but had something to do in the wiring in the cluster or the ecu. i remember on another forum nicoclub that a member there was modifying cluster(speedo and tach) to work with rb25 swaps. that is what leads me to believe that it has something to do with the cluster. i just eventually gave up on the speedo and tach issue.
Well if that's the case all you need is the z32 pigtail.. It has everything to do with the cluster..for the tach you wire in a 10k resister and there is a little dial inside the cluster you can adjust(cant remember the name off hand). The z32 speed sensor must be geared differently then the rb25 that's why it fixes the speedo being off
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:21 PM   #1033
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I have a rb20 trans and I am missing the throw out bearing, clutch fork and throw out bearing collar and the ring that holds the clutch fork onto the collar and on the pivot ball.

Can I use the ka24de one? For all of those?

I also need to find an OEM igniter chip for it too. I have an rb25 and z32 one and I know you can repin your harness, but I don't want to do that. I just want to have an oem one. Doesn anyone know where I can get one or have a factory part number?
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:39 PM   #1034
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Anyone? I'm right at the end of my completion of the swap.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:19 PM   #1035
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OK, I know the RB25DET and the z32 N/A have the same clutch, but exactly what year do you have to go with?
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:38 AM   #1036
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RB20 and KA transmissions are almost the exact same thing, minus the bell housing. I used a KA pilot bushing and throw out bearing on my rb20 swap, so I would imagine that the collar is the same as well.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:25 PM   #1037
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What Maf adapters is everyone using on there rb20? I've heard of using 300zx MAF adapter but some ads on ebay have 2x3.75" dimensions which is alot smaller then my rb20 MAF?

Any suggestions?
thanks
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:26 PM   #1038
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got a lil problem....just got done doing all the IC piping work on my rb20 swap and i go to start the car it would not start. Before IC piping...it started just by holding/covering the intake j pipe for creating some restriction. But now it do not start. not sure what would cause this problem. i have fuel/spark. Tried adjusting the timing at almost all the different positions still no luck. any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:54 PM   #1039
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Do you have a bov? What's your fuel pressure?
Try to step on the throttle when cranking.
Might be flooded. Take out the pump fuse then crank to get rid of the extra fuel.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:56 PM   #1040
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And rbs are sensitive with timing so just leave it to the stock position if its marked on your motor.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:29 AM   #1041
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Quote:
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Do you have a bov? What's your fuel pressure?
Try to step on the throttle when cranking.
Might be flooded. Take out the pump fuse then crank to get rid of the extra fuel.
hey thanks for your reply.
yes I have the stock bov and i dont have a fuel pressure gauge. yesterday I pulled all the spark plugs. I noticed first plug was clean but all other cylindersl plugs were dirty from carbon. so I pulled out the fuel rail and tested if all injectors were firing. no. 1 was ejecting slightly less fuel then others. so I went and replaced with spare injector I had. put it all back together and tried to start it but still wont turn over.
also checked each spark in all cylinders. and its good
so im stumped.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:32 AM   #1042
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my battery ran out of charge I will give it another try adjusting CAS but at this point its timing or I dont what. so any suggestions as for what to look out for?
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:46 AM   #1043
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So what does it do when you turn the key? Is it dead or kinda just clicks?
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #1044
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it cranks/ turnd over just doesnt start.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:56 PM   #1045
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Quote:
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it cranks/ turnd over just doesnt start.
Alright well the next thing is, does it fire at all? Or just spins over? Make sure your fuel lines are on right to.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:19 PM   #1046
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it started once about a month ago. but I didnt had my ic piping on...now that ive got them hooked up it won't turn on. fuel lines should be on correctly but I will double check them.

it almost wants to fire up but doesn't
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:29 PM   #1047
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Maybe the ecu has some codes, do you have your CEL wired in? Remove your neg battery cable for 15-30mins, that should clear the ecu. How are your grounds? I know with my maf wiring if I messed with it too much it would run weird for a bit, glad I went to map. Maybe a new set of plugs? How is the fuel pressure?
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:54 AM   #1048
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Quote:
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Maybe the ecu has some codes, do you have your CEL wired in? Remove your neg battery cable for 15-30mins, that should clear the ecu. How are your grounds? I know with my maf wiring if I messed with it too much it would run weird for a bit, glad I went to map. Maybe a new set of plugs? How is the fuel pressure?
Grounds seemed good, im going to check the grounds on ecu according to this thread: http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/3699...code-55-a.html

Wiring part should be okay as i went with the Brand new Wiring Specialities Harness. I did replace the plugs on it with ngk bcpr6es-11. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so i am not sure on the fuel pressure. thanks for the help man!
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:34 AM   #1049
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No problem man, these rb's are bastards sometimes but I wouldnt trade my rb25 for another motor! well maybe an rb30 but thats different haha.Now it's starting to sound like a sensor or your timing is off. Have you checked the timing?
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:28 PM   #1050
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ok so i had the fuel lines wrong. it started and kept dying then i disconnected the MAF and it would start up on couple trys but would idle/rev by itself. Also sometimes it would just not start. and one time it started with MAF connected.
I am suspecting that the MAF and TPS is possibly faulty?
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