The definitive paint thread. Nuff said.

[WERDdabuilder]

Originally Posted by mdlesk

[Gription]

Okay guys, so I finished painting my car and getting ready to polish it, but I'm having some problems now and I have lots of questions for you paint shop gurus out there. We used enamel for the base.

So it was like 12 days ago that we cleared the car. Looked all glossy and wet and orange peeley .. sweet.
Waited a few days and the wet sanded it smooth. Looked dull and whatnot like it should. sweet.
Put some water on it just to see what it would look like after polishing and buffing and all that other stuff that I know nothing about. Looked super shiny, wet, popped hard and felt like it did after clear coating but smoother.

Sweet.

I would put some water on a few spots of the car every day just to see what it would look like after polishing just to keep me happy. Still looked sick and felt smooth and good.
THEN.. yesterday I go out there and put some water on it and it would just dissipate instantly. Didn't stay on there, didn't look wet, glossy, and felt super dry and fag status like. I didn't think anything of it.

We cleared the trunk again ago just because it needed it. So it's looking all flashy and good and orange peeley like it should. I didn't wet sand this panel. cool.

Following good so far? Okay cool.

So today my buddy who works at a detail shop came over with his buffer and some compounds and all and went to work on a couple spots just to test it out. Shit looked nothing like it did when I put water on it the first few days after wet sanding. I mean, it looked shinier, but it's hazy and feels rough. Looks and feels nowhere near as good as the trunk does (which is just freshly cleared, no wetsanding). So now I'm all wtf.

He had some turtle wax compounds that he said work good. I know it's not the buffing job at fault here though, because the whole water on wet sanded paint thing seemed to be the issue.

Does anyone know whats going on with this? I don't understand how it can be fine one day and then 2 days later look like a cereal box full of dick. I'm thinking of
A. Wet sanding a test spot and buffing that to see if it just needs to be freshly wet sanded again.

B. Clearing the car again.

Help!

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

Originally Posted by Gription

Okay guys, so I finished painting my car and getting ready to polish it, but I'm having some problems now and I have lots of questions for you paint shop gurus out there. We used enamel for the base.

So it was like 12 days ago that we cleared the car. Looked all glossy and wet and orange peeley .. sweet.
Waited a few days and the wet sanded it smooth. Looked dull and whatnot like it should. sweet.
Put some water on it just to see what it would look like after polishing and buffing and all that other stuff that I know nothing about. Looked super shiny, wet, popped hard and felt like it did after clear coating but smoother.

Sweet.

I would put some water on a few spots of the car every day just to see what it would look like after polishing just to keep me happy. Still looked sick and felt smooth and good.
THEN.. yesterday I go out there and put some water on it and it would just dissipate instantly. Didn't stay on there, didn't look wet, glossy, and felt super dry and fag status like. I didn't think anything of it.

We cleared the trunk again ago just because it needed it. So it's looking all flashy and good and orange peeley like it should. I didn't wet sand this panel. cool.

Following good so far? Okay cool.

So today my buddy who works at a detail shop came over with his buffer and some compounds and all and went to work on a couple spots just to test it out. Shit looked nothing like it did when I put water on it the first few days after wet sanding. I mean, it looked shinier, but it's hazy and feels rough. Looks and feels nowhere near as good as the trunk does (which is just freshly cleared, no wetsanding). So now I'm all wtf.

He had some turtle wax compounds that he said work good. I know it's not the buffing job at fault here though, because the whole water on wet sanded paint thing seemed to be the issue.

Does anyone know whats going on with this? I don't understand how it can be fine one day and then 2 days later look like a cereal box full of dick. I'm thinking of
A. Wet sanding a test spot and buffing that to see if it just needs to be freshly wet sanded again.

B. Clearing the car again.

Help!

Use a polishing compound by 3M or Meguiars with a cut level of 3 or less.

What brand of paint and clear did you use?

Turtle wax fucking sucks FYI

[Gription]

Yeah a friend of mine who works at a paint shop took a look at it last night and said pretty much the same thing. He said to get a wool pad, extra cut compound and some swirl remover.

[frsh4]

Wow. You Suck. ^^^^^

[Houseof1817]

Pretty sure that it is Euro color (VW,Audi)
.02?

[TougeLove]

anyone seen or thought about doing it in maziora from the tamon s2000?

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

use that shit with a wool pad and then go over the entire thing lightly with a foam pad and a finer cut compound.

Also, you can use 3M's Perfect-It. Thats what all the shops I have ever worked in use and they love it.



Finished pictures of CJ's car

[GripTerror]

Anyone able to find a color like this that's not metallic but has a transient change so to speak kind of a pearl kind of a 'maziora' orange/red/white i dunno how to explain... this is from a video game though:



And also can anyone identify this color exactly... it may be custom but... something like it? It's a hamman x6 custom made:

[Lite it up]

Finished product. JW0

[ov1989]

Originally Posted by Lite it up

Finished product. JW0

love this color!!! gj man

[dontxploitme]

And also can anyone identify this color exactly... it may be custom but... something like it? It's a hamman x6 custom made:

not positive but it looks like bmw's electric red
color code 438

i wanna paint my hatch that color and add flake

[dontxploitme]

i have a question for all the painters on here. my uncle said he'll paint my car for me. he's not professional but he used to paint lowriders and he did a pretty good job. he told me i just need to get the paint and an hvlp gun. but i don't know how much paint to get? this is roughly what i'm looking at

2 coats of primer
3-4 coats of paint
3-4 coats of clear

on an s13 hatch

can somebody sum those numbers up for me in qts? for example how many qts of primer and how many qts of paint & clear will i need for the job?

thanks in advance

[rREValo]

Pearl green paint code 0080 Lamborghini green

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

Originally Posted by rREValo

Pearl green paint code 0080 Lamborghini green

I fucking love that color but can't bring myself to paint anything I own that color because of color matching and cost.

Lamborghini has some of the coolest most involved colors I have ever seen or worked with, and as such, I have never painted one that didn't have to get fully resprayed haha

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

Originally Posted by dontxploitme

i have a question for all the painters on here. my uncle said he'll paint my car for me. he's not professional but he used to paint lowriders and he did a pretty good job. he told me i just need to get the paint and an hvlp gun. but i don't know how much paint to get? this is roughly what i'm looking at

2 coats of primer
3-4 coats of paint
3-4 coats of clear

on an s13 hatch

can somebody sum those numbers up for me in qts? for example how many qts of primer and how many qts of paint & clear will i need for the job?

thanks in advance

Get a gallon of everything.


Even though you may think you need primer, you probably only need sealer.


Remember, primer is a FILLER, and sealer is to help level the panel for the base coat and is sprayed about 20 minutes before any base coat.


If your car is completely stock body, but you are painting everything but the door jams (which I suggest you go ahead and paint them as well) you will need a gallon of clear, a gallon of base and reducer (unless you are using a waterborne system or pre reduced system) and depending on the body work done or not done anywhere from 2 quarts to a gallon of sealer.


You can always use primer as a filler as well as the sealer pre base coat, but you will want to make sure you don't sand through any of it so you don't get hazing or inconsistent coverage over the car. This is why I typically will seal everything I paint, helps everything come out the same and almost perfect.

[upsdude]

question regarding the s14 kouki valences:
they appear to be pre-primered. has anyone just painted these the way they were? i was thinking about scuffing and at least spraying some adhesion promoter before painting, or is it necessary to lay down a fresh coat of primer? i'm a rookie at painting so yeah i'm clueless...i have a major run to fix on my bumper

[endlessboost]

Originally Posted by upsdude

question regarding the s14 kouki valences:
they appear to be pre-primered. has anyone just painted these the way they were? i was thinking about scuffing and at least spraying some adhesion promoter before painting, or is it necessary to lay down a fresh coat of primer? i'm a rookie at painting so yeah i'm clueless...i have a major run to fix on my bumper

Usually oem parts come primed already. Adhesion promoter is usually only for raw rubber to help adhere primer. I'd say just scuff it down with 800 grit and paint.

[Z28ricer]

Jet Black basecoat over PPG black sealer, HOK Rich gold flake midcoat, then clear

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by Z28ricer

Jet Black basecoat over PPG black sealer, HOK Rich gold flake midcoat, then clear

and to think i was going to do the same thing to my exterior...whew...dodged that bullet.

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

Usually you don't want to trust primers on oem pieces, best thing you can do is sand it down by hand with 400 wet and see what it looks like. I would absolutely seal the pieces though before you hit it with any base coat

[upsdude]

Originally Posted by Lovely Idol Inc.

Usually you don't want to trust primers on oem pieces, best thing you can do is sand it down by hand with 400 wet and see what it looks like. I would absolutely seal the pieces though before you hit it with any base coat

uh, what is the sealer? that's separate from the adhesion spray i'm guessing? well i'm limited to using a single stage paint, since the previous owner painted the entire car that way. i was told if i go the base/clear route on the new parts it would stand out way too much...and if i was told the wrong info it's too late the valances are already painted an on my ride lol :P

[Lovely Idol Inc.]

Originally Posted by upsdude

uh, what is the sealer? that's separate from the adhesion spray i'm guessing? well i'm limited to using a single stage paint, since the previous owner painted the entire car that way. i was told if i go the base/clear route on the new parts it would stand out way too much...and if i was told the wrong info it's too late the valances are already painted an on my ride lol :P

Yeah you were fed the wrong info absolutely.


Sealer is essentially a leveling primer whereas primer is a high build product used when you are filling things or covering bodywork/bare metal.

You use sealer before base coat to ensure the base lays down the same everywhere and there are no transparent spots when you are working with pearls or metallics.

[.jrmyrmx]

hard to tell from the picture but the car looks like it was anodized gold. has a little bit of texture to the whole thing, looks amazing!! I wonder how this type of color would look on a newer car....

[jing]

Is this factory paint?

[jing]

Originally Posted by jing

Is this factory paint?

Well if anyone was curious, the colour is Bright Aqua Metallic from a 94 Corvette

[driftsilvias13]

^ nope....

[onehundredoctane]

my S14 with GM Charcoal Gray Metallic from 09 Corvette

[frsh4]

can someone confirm this for me?
#283e67 is Seattle Seahawk Blue.

[Wake]

Originally Posted by frsh4

can someone confirm this for me?
#283e67 is Seattle Seahawk Blue.

Thats what comes up when I google the number so i would say yes.