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06-01-2010, 09:57 PM | #121 | |
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S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly DEFSPORT |
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06-01-2010, 10:01 PM | #122 | |
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Deluboz(or whatever it is) front camber plates work just fine. I'm currently running them. Also some eBay plates from I think the same guy that were only advertised for a Z32(exact same bolt pattern/everything). They're just a piece of aluminum, some studs, and a cheap spherical bearing that shouldn't be rotating if you setup the rest of the stuff correctly. If you're trying to make things rotate at the spherical bearing you're doing it wrong - end of story.
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06-01-2010, 11:46 PM | #123 |
yeah, we tried a 1.25" npt but the threads in the tube would cut the wall too thin. it has to be an oddball thread size to fit while still having enough thread depth to make me feel ok with it's ability to hold. the m48 nut from koni was too shallow, and the m50 would cut too deep. the insert fits well though, needed a bit of aluminum shim to be snug at the bottom. if one were using the off-the-shelf GC sleeve and short spring (basicly build it and set it up as if it were a regular yellow) it would still be a huge leap above a lot of other options.
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06-02-2010, 01:00 AM | #124 | |
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06-02-2010, 01:55 AM | #126 | |
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Manonegra, time to cash in man. Make these top-hats and I'll even send some money in advance. |
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06-02-2010, 09:08 AM | #127 | |
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Do tell! haha |
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06-02-2010, 12:22 PM | #128 |
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The MR2 and some other cars (IIRC Toyotas and Volvos) has serviceable OEM struts with a removable gland nut to hold the internals in the strut tube.
While I was searching for a way to simply hold the 8611-1257 inside a strut tube I found that a lot of people are actually doing this. They would cut the threaded portion with the gland nut off the MR2 strut tube, measure and modify their own strut tube to fit the 8611, then weld on the threaded section to hold the Koni insert in place. It sounds a bit convoluted but in the hands of a competent welder I'm sure it will beat the hell out of buying the pipe threading tool money wise. |
06-02-2010, 12:29 PM | #129 |
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Ah...
I've seen it done on AE86s and stuff. Might as well cut off the brackets that mounts to the knuckles and move those up as high as you'd like so for the really low guys they still have suspension travel. |
06-02-2010, 12:50 PM | #130 | |
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Oh yeah, hello fellow NRR member . |
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06-02-2010, 01:00 PM | #131 | |
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That is actually an idea we considered, since the stockers only usually use one bead around the bottom that is easy enough to grind away. this would also let you use a thicker wall tube that would be great for an m48 gland nut. However, the problem you run into is that the stock lower brackets leave you iffy room for tire-to-perch clearance. it wouldn't be impossible, but you'd have to mess with it a bit. you could always use shorter springs, but then you're juggling bump travel and coil bind. I've been playing with numbers a lot recently, and while I think it could be done it would need to be just right. it's on my to-try list though, so if I can get one together I'll post an update. |
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06-02-2010, 01:03 PM | #132 |
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I'll do some digging around tonight, but I have a set of Vorshlag Hats on my 8611 setup, that I sourced from a BMW place out in CA. I can't recall the name now.
However TechnoToys Tuning (t3) offers a nice caster camber plate, as well as a 2.5" ID swivle hat now for springs...may be worth checking out as it's considerably cheaper than the vorslahgs...
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06-02-2010, 01:38 PM | #133 | ||
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That way everything can be put together like on the OP and you'll be driving in less than 2 hours, and 2 hours is really taking your time to put everything together and bolting them onto the car haha |
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06-02-2010, 06:01 PM | #134 |
Yeah, I firmly agree that richard's housings are worth every penny. I was working with a 4 day deadline and was lucky enough to have a machine shop at my disposal. personally, I think richard's setup is the way to go, but if you are really scraping by, taking some measurements and hand-picking parts to reuse your stockers doesn't cost that much. I think it gets financially lpointless at cutting the lower bracket off and such tho, unless you already have access to a mill/welder/lathe . just stuffing them in stockers ends up with a guesstimated 1/2" gain in bump travel (not enough, I know, but you don't LOSE any at least), and otherwise worked well. again, so far from ideal but the old school yellow/gc setup served a lot of people well for a long time despite the drawbacks, so effectively duplicating that arrangement with a superior and cost effective dampener, imho, is much more productive that either staying stock, or buying taiwan brand coilovers. and I figure you can always just pull them out and swap your inserts and gc bits to a set of richard's housings later as money allows, too. again, not ideal, but if you're desperate....
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06-06-2010, 02:45 PM | #135 |
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What is the cheapest GC setup possible with new struts? Will it work to just buy the GC coilover conversion kit and KYB GR-2's, no other parts required? It would be great for those of us with no money to be able to spend $600 on a system that can easily be upgraded to top of the line Konis.
The idea would be to upgrade later to Koni's, but I guess this isn't possible since the GC kit would fit the different diameter of the shock. |
06-10-2010, 11:47 AM | #136 | |
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06-10-2010, 01:08 PM | #137 |
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GR2s are stock replacements, which means valved for stock spring rates.
Lowering your car will probably cause it to bottom out internally when you hit bumps with the soft spring rates from the lowering springs, thus killing them in no time. KYB GR2s sucked even with Tanabe GF210 springs. So yeah, I do not recommend GR2s to anyone unless they're literally replacing blown stock struts/shocks and is still running stock springs. |
08-17-2010, 10:35 AM | #138 | |
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08-21-2010, 09:53 AM | #139 | |
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you forgot camber plates. The Koni yellow sport shocks are inserts for the fronts. You will need your OEM McPherson housings. The rears are bolt ons.
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09-06-2010, 09:09 AM | #141 | |
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Personally, I'd save up some money and hit up ebay for the circle track discards for the sleeves and stuff, since an adjustable ride height would be a good thing to have. |
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