Nismo vs SPC Control Arms

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by BryanSayWhat

The GKTech HICAS lock bar would be the way to go if he wanted to use the stock arms:

Ball joints are toast and are the tie rods. So if I'm replacing that, why stick with that garbage.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Since you brought up the super cheap way of doing things, just get Nismo bushings, cut your stock arms in half, box them, and weld in an adjuster bolt/stud yourself.

Easy.

I have seen guys do that.

[SupaDoopa]

Originally Posted by Corbic

S14 Subframe?

I thought everyone was going back to the S13 setup these days.

Maybe, but we know the S14 has a wider track width which I would assume everyone SHOULD prefer. Maybe I'm just dumb.

[BryanSayWhat]

GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences:
https://blog.gktech.com/blog/s-chass...me-comparison/

They also now sell a "anti-squat reduction weld in kit" for the S13/R32 subframe (maybe that's why people are going back to S13 subframes?):
https://us.gktech.com/s13-240sx-r32-...on-weld-in-kit

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by BryanSayWhat

GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences

awesome article! very well written and lots of great information.

my only question that wasnt answered is why is the S13 and S14 subframe offset 10mm toward the drivers side!? (id love to know how to correct this)

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by BryanSayWhat

GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences:
https://blog.gktech.com/blog/s-chass...me-comparison/

They also now sell a "anti-squat reduction weld in kit" for the S13/R32 subframe (maybe that's why people are going back to S13 subframes?):
https://us.gktech.com/s13-240sx-r32-...on-weld-in-kit

Summary:

Originally Posted by GKTECH;

4. CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the main reasons for S14 rear subframe design updates are ride comfort related. There are more rubber bushings and the lower arm and toe arm ones are longer for more bushing compliancy toe-in action under load.

The S13 rear subframe is better suited for use in drag racing at OEM ride height and can be used in the circuit racing too albeit the ride height must be reduced significantly, but that will cause other problems to occur.

The S14 rear subframe is better suited for use in circuit racing with its low anti-squat, but it is recommended to raise it as close to the chassis as possible for some gain in anti-squat for better traction.

MSG LGH

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by SupaDoopa

Maybe, but we know the S14 has a wider track width which I would assume everyone SHOULD prefer. Maybe I'm just dumb.

That just means less room for tucking wheels!

[FaLKoN240]

When I deleted HICAS on my S13 I went with aftermarket spherical S13 arms.

I too am tired of stupid spherical cars on the street but I'm far too invested to change anything on my drift s14 now.

I would see how different the mounting/pick-up locations on the non-hicas r32 subframes are from the HICAS one you have.

I would go with the Nismo

[tuzzio]

Just to clarify, we are now arguing about opinions vs. one persons desired level of comfort?

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Just to clarify, we are now arguing about opinions vs. one persons desired level of comfort?

Naw, just the usual suspects up to their usual personas.

[tuzzio]

So, Corbic. What did you end up doing and did you get your desired results?

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

So, Corbic. What did you end up doing and did you get your desired results?

Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.

[mothon]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.

Did you already install the nismo bushings into the hardrace arms?

[spooled240]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.

Any updates on this? I'm looking to cut down on the roaring road noise in the cabin and I figured I'd start with the solid heim joints first.

[Thursday7]

Also bumping this interested in an update.

What I struggle to see after reading this thread through like 3 times over the last two years is why is SPC not the default option? They're even in the title.

Rubber, adjustability, high clearance angled arms, better quality than Megan etc. What am I missing that makes them not the easy choice?

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Thursday7

Rubber, adjustability, high clearance angled arms, better quality than Megan etc. What am I missing that makes them not the easy choice?

not everyone needs that level of threaded adjustment.

its like saying $1000 Tein Flex coilovers are better than Nismo S-Tune spring/shock. sure you might have more adjustment, but you also have one more point of failure to check every time.

plus, not like anyone wants to wreck a car, but solid arms are not the best when it comes to saving your car if you hit a curb or get hit. stamped sheet metal factory arms (Nismo) still are superior when it comes to saving the car in an accident.

[AKADriver]

People tend to either follow what the very high end specialized track/drift builds are doing, or buy the cheapest shit on eBay, which both end up being spherical bushings.

I love my SPC tension rods and won't use anything else if I decide to go adjustable in the back. Very well made.

[jr_ss]

When I originally did my read suspension, I used rubber in the arms and sphericals at the knuckle. This was the best solution to keeping NVH down, while still allowing better articulation and control of what the tire is doing under various loads. I can tell you my transmission causes more NVH than I have ever heard from the rear of my car.

[AKADriver]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

When I originally did my read suspension, I used rubber in the arms and sphericals at the knuckle. This was the best solution to keeping NVH down, while still allowing better articulation and control of what the tire is doing under various loads. I can tell you my transmission causes more NVH than I have ever heard from the rear of my car.

Yeah, that's the other thing - most people end up with the opposite setup when they go cheap (stock worn out rubber in the knuckles and spherical on the arms) and that's good enough for NVH when they also have poly motor mounts etc.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

Yeah, that's the other thing - most people end up with the opposite setup when they go cheap (stock worn out rubber in the knuckles and spherical on the arms) and that's good enough for NVH when they also have poly motor mounts etc.

I have Nismo mounts and my S14 trans was quite a bit quieter than my Z32 setup. I?m moving to a JK41 and I suspect that will be on par with the Z32 if not louder.

I have considered removing my spherical knuckles and installing Z32 uprights with SuperPro or Noltec bushings. This is just a thought, I haven?t determine I?ll do that or not. The main reason I haven?t pulled the trigger is the roll/drag racing I?ll be doing and the spherical bearings really help keep unwanted movement down.

[seto_s14]

great thread. subbed

[Thursday7]

Anyone know if there's an option for an offset/high clearance tension rod that doesn't use a heim?

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by Thursday7

Anyone know if there's an option for an offset/high clearance tension rod that doesn't use a heim?

Doesn't driftworks or hardrace made those ?

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by wezurii

Doesn't driftworks or hardrace made those ?

Hardrace, TruHart and Megan are all the same company BTW.

So for US Market, Megan is pillow ball bushings, TruHart is rubber, however... The Tension Rod for TruHart are pillow ball.

You'll have to import Hardrace which is the European/Aus branding for Megan/TruHart.

6164-S14-R

[Thursday7]

I took a look, but with the brands mentioned all I see in rubber is straight. Wondering if there is an offset/high clearance in rubber or poly.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Hardrace, TruHart and Megan are all the same company BTW.

So for US Market, Megan is pillow ball bushings, TruHart is rubber, however... The Tension Rod for TruHart are pillow ball.

You'll have to import Hardrace which is the European/Aus branding for Megan/TruHart.

6164-S14-R

ah did not now this, but then again over here we don't really see megan or truhart

[yomisiu]

only thing i can think of are the nismo rods with this little bend in them