My SR20VET...

[soundboy]

Amazing work

[rhd_ole]

This is awesome!!

[jr_ss]

I know it's been a short period of time since I've updated this, but not much had been happening since the dyno breaking and the actual tune date pushed back. In that time I made some small fuel tweaks myself, nothing to get me into trouble, but enough to keep the engine happy while in boost. I ran wastegate pressure during this time as well, because we(the tuner and I) weren't entirely sure how the engine would react.

During my "drive time" I wasn't aware of the VVL engaging. That maybe because I wasn't looking for it. Any how, I couldn't get the VVL to engage while the engine was idling and it perplexed me. One would think that the cams would switch and the idle quality would change drastically. So naturally, I started poking around with the wiring, since I've had so many problems with that aspect of the build. I didn't find an error here, surprising right, but it made me start to think about the actual mechanical components and how they worked together. I used a stethoscope to listen to the solenoids as I forced them on via laptop and I could here them clicking. Wiring was good, the ECU had control over the solenoids. Then I realized, that at idle, I have no where near the oil pressure or volume as I would at say 4k rpms or higher. I buttoned things back up and took the car for a spin, sure enough it worked and there was an audibly noticeable change in engine tone/pitch, just as one would expect. I called Harry and told him I was ready to get strapped down when he was available.

Somewhere in between the scheduled date and the day of, Harry injured his leg. He called me and asked if I could push back for a week or so, until the pain subsided or at least eased up a bit on him. Seeing as how this initial tune time was suppose to be at the end of Oct, I said that's fine, what's another week at this point. So, Wed or Thursday rolled around, I gave him a call to see where he stood with his leg. He said he'd manage. PERFECT, I'd been anticipating getting the car strapped down all week.

Thursday night I started loading the car with everything I think I'd need. Fresh plugs, Qt. of oil, the GoPro w/ tripod, misc. batteries for gadgets, the Canon and the laptop. I made sure it was all there, if not laying out in plain view so I wouldn't forget it in the am. I don't think I slept much Thursday night. After all, this has been a 4yr project and this was a final chapter waiting to be documented and written. Morning breaks and I'm up 30mins before I normally get out of bed. I decided I was going to go in early so I could roll out early to the Dyno.

Friday Harry asked if I could call him when I left Venice. His shop is roughly 45-60mins north of me, depending on traffic(these old people can't drive worth a damn). I arrived at his shop and he was no where to be found. The shop was locked up tighter than Fort Knox. 15mins go by and he rolls in. Hell ya! It's on.

We get the car strapped in and he starts to fiddle with the tune. We made slow progress, but it was all in the name of safety. Half pulls, verifying the AFR's were where they needed to be, minor adjustments here and there. We stay until roughly 10pm. We had gone from a whopping 125hp at 4k rpms to just a hair over 400. We called it quits here because we started to get spark blowout at 17psi. No worries, the car could probably use a break for the evening.

Noon today, I arrived at his shop and immediately pull the plugs. They look great, just need to be tightened up some. I asked Harry what he recommended, he said .025" should be good, any tighter and you can have idling issues. First pull of the day at 17 psi was a solid and clean pull. She made 450whp. Over the course of the next few hours we tweaked and cleaned up rich/lean spots. At the end of the day the car laid down a very impressive 485whp/370wtrq. I'm extremely happy where we are right now. In the future I do plan to head back for some tweaks to setup various safe guards and added features. Burn outs coming soon to a tread near you... I'll get some videos up as I edit them.

[Yellow4g63]

Nice numbers for 17psi!

[Tom N]

Not bad for a Nissan

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Nice numbers for 17psi!

Final boost pressure was 19-20, not 17. Thanks though.

Tom- we both know what needs to be done.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Final boost pressure was 19-20, not 17. Thanks though.

Tom- we both know what needs to be done.

In time. First you need to get some tires to be able to even use the power you have on piss gas. Adriana said you can give her ET street a shot at the track next week if your drag radials just spin.

[2000gtx]

i have a similer build vvl head stock cams,except 35r on a .63 housing,have not dynoed but feels real good i am at 15 lbs of boost...were you on pump gas?....

[PrimeDirective]

Wow, congratulations. Where did you end up having the VVL engage? I see a small bump around 5.6k

[ka-titties]

4.5k-5k must feel fucking awesome.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 2000gtx

i have a similer build vvl head stock cams,except 35r on a .63 housing,have not dynoed but feels real good i am at 15 lbs of boost...were you on pump gas?....

Yes, this was on 93oct.

Originally Posted by PrimeDirective

Wow, congratulations. Where did you end up having the VVL engage? I see a small bump around 5.6k

The switch over point is at 4300rpms. This kept power climbing instead of dropping off, producing the typical "vtech" dip in power. We tried to switch them earlier, but we actually lost power.

Originally Posted by ka-titties

4.5k-5k must feel fucking awesome.

Oh, it's a blast. Even after the initial hit, it pulls so hard to rev limit, which is set at 8250.

[jr_ss]

https://vimeo.com/117871699

Can someone embed this video? I'm having trouble doing it.

[Ramonesfreak2010]

That feel when you can hear VVL kick in. Oh god.

[Yellow4g63]

This should work

[ka-titties]

hell yeah, switching into awesome mode.

[jr_ss]

Another video... I should have some rolling shots in a few days. I'd like to get to the local 1320 soon too. Need some trap speeds.

[jr_ss]

I've been slacking on getting videos. I'll try harder to get something filmed and thrown up.

Went to the local 1320 last night. The car is fast. My elapsed times aren't the best, but the mph is good. If I can get a better launch, not bog and have more traction I should be running in the low 11's. So, basically learn how to drive the car all over. I'm happy with it so far. I need a new alignment to take some rear camber out. I may swap out the turbo exhaust housing to the .63 and switch my exhaust cam a few hundred RPMS sooner to get some spool back. I'd also like to see what some Q16 in this ish can do.

[RalliartRsX]

Looks good, but man does that thing sound very laggy! The low lobes on the VE are better than a DE, so even off boost, I am surprised to see how laggy it is (which also may be part of your boggin issue off the line). Also, that MPH should be good for a solid 11 sec run.

Yeah, changing to a .63 back end may be a good start!

[PoorMans180SX]

Looks and sounds good man.

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Looks good, but man does that thing sound very laggy! The low lobes on the VE are better than a DE, so even off boost, I am surprised to see how laggy it is (which also may be part of your boggin issue off the line). Also, that MPH should be good for a solid 11 sec run.

Yeah, changing to a .63 back end may be a good start!

Yeah that's a pretty typical 3076 powerband, the .63 housing will probably give 300rpm quicker spool, but 3076's are laggy mugs, I try and steer people away from them when I can.

[RalliartRsX]

The 3076 is quite the oddball, I agree!

[whitey240]

Looks pretty good. Number are not to far off from where I was at with the setup. Good luck!

edit: Just noticed your MPH. That will definitely be good for at least a 11.3 run!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Looks good, but man does that thing sound very laggy! The low lobes on the VE are better than a DE, so even off boost, I am surprised to see how laggy it is (which also may be part of your boggin issue off the line). Also, that MPH should be good for a solid 11 sec run.

Yeah, changing to a .63 back end may be a good start!

Thank you. I think I'm going to keep the backside as is for now and play with cam switch over points. When we initially dyno'd the car, we didn't switch the cams independently from one another. So, I think there is some spool to be gained by optimizing the ex and in switch over points. New cams should change spool time for the better as well, based off the graphs I've seen comparing the factory VE cam options. The biggest factor is not knowing what the JE valve reliefs are good for in terms of lift and duration. I do believe non-N1's would make a significant difference as Def has mentioned on NRR and I have the clearance for them.

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Looks and sounds good man.



Yeah that's a pretty typical 3076 powerband, the .63 housing will probably give 300rpm quicker spool, but 3076's are laggy mugs, I try and steer people away from them when I can.

I know the 3076R is a bastard child and more can be had out of this setup. I'm by no means done tweaking the car. I'd like to see over 500 with some better spool. It's fun regardless as is. Thank you sir.

Originally Posted by whitey240

Looks pretty good. Number are not to far off from where I was at with the setup. Good luck!

edit: Just noticed your MPH. That will definitely be good for at least a 11.3 run!

Yessir, just 6hp shy of what you made, however your power came on a bit sooner. That's the goal right now, to decrease spool time and increase area under the curve.

I'm hoping for a low 11 sec pass. I need to get my 2step setup and some new rubber to put the power down. 255's aren't cutting it.

[jr_ss]

Its been awhile...

The car was down for a month or more due to some repairs needed in the intake manifold. I couldn't figure out why the car started to idle much higher than normal one day going to work. I thought it might have been a cut o-ring on an injector, but upon closer inspection, I found a crack on the flange at the head, and around every runner on the intake manifold at the plenum. I fixed what I could with my old TIG at work, then passed it off to my buddy who has a newer and higher amp machine.



Once I put the manifold back on, I made a few tweaks to the tune. I had way too much throttle enrichment so the car would hiccup/buck when throttle was given at around 2-3K RPMS. I do have some more changes to make on the warm start-up map. It takes a few minutes for the car to want to idle on its own once warm, which is no big deal, just something I'd rather not deal with.

I was preparing the car for Street Heat yesterday and had a mishap. I had changed the diff fluid and was installing the fill plug when the rear cover decided it didn't want to play nice and CRACKED! I didn't think I had the plug in real far, but apparently it was just a hair too much. Fortunately, I have a spare cover, but it requires removing the differential to change.




So, with removing the diff, comes some upgrades. I've had some much stronger axles sitting on the shelf for a few years now. I figured I'd just run my factory ones until they popped. However, since the diff is coming out, why not install the new axle? They are DSS 600hp axles and they have a ball and cage outer CV which is much stronger than the tripod style CV that is in the car. The inner CV's are Porsche 108mm units, which is also a much stronger design than the existing pieces.



I'll also be installing a new set of rear upper control arms(RUCA'S). I've lowered the car to a place where I feel looks aggressive and still has a functional amount of suspension travel. Far too often I see these kids bouncing off the bump stops cruising down the road. Maybe it's me getting older, but it looks dumb and uncomfortable. Anyway, I've reached the maximum amount of camber I can dial out from the factory arms. These adjustable arms will allow me to dial out a bit more. As it sits, it's roughly around -1.5*, which isn't horrible and quite acceptable if I were to be doing some autoX or road course work. However, the car sees more street and drag strip duty, so I want to bring it down to roughly -.5 to -.75 degrees for every day driving. This will maximize the contact patch of the tire when I squat under WOT. I also have an eccentric lockout kit for the factory eccentric bolts.



As always, I spend a large portion of my time hanging out with Kcoda. He is a week shy of 6mons old at this point and is just at 80lbs. He's taller than my Purebred Lab at the withers as well. My guess is 100lbs by the 1 year mark and 125-130 when he's officially "done" growing. Second picture is a month old with my sister's St. Bernard at 160lbs and my Lab at 85lbs.

[brndck]

you're not the first person i've read who had issues with a mazworx manifold cracking
http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...=520202&st=210

http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...-Project/page6

http://nissanroadracing.com/archive/...hp/t-5350.html

i'm looking into one of these manifolds and hopefully it won't have the same issues

http://prlmotorsports.com/billetinta...x#.VZgbNRNVikp'

[jr_ss]

I think there were a few factors that ultimately led to it cracking. Lack of additional support was a large one. I thought/assumed the plenum runner base plate, that the plenum attaches or welds too, was one machined piece. Each one was machined, then welded on the inside and ground down to give a smooth transition into the runner. I don't believe they tapered the two pieces enough before they were welded to together. So ultimately, the outside had to be welded up to seal it once the runners were capped.

It was a used manifold and also the first one. I know some changes have been made, mainly the size of the plenum, but thankfully it wasn't something that had to be junked.

[scottie]

Will those axles bolt to the 300Z/350Z 6 bolt differential output flanges?

[ksuberk54]

Great build! You need to work on that 60' though that's what's killing you man!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by scottie

Will those axles bolt to the 300Z/350Z 6 bolt differential output flanges?

With a different adapter ring, I'm sure they would.

Yep, I think this is what you'd need... http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import...-bolt-to-108mm

Originally Posted by ksuberk54

Great build! You need to work on that 60' though that's what's killing you man!

Thanks. The 60fts definitely need work. I'm still getting use to the engagement on the twin disk and finding the correct RPM for launching. I'm planning a strip trip in 2wks.

[future]

I love dogs also! I'm a boxer dog type of guy so mine will never get that big


but out of curiosity how do you like your KW coils? I'm debating then for my Z I plan on getting pretty soon cause in my mind that's the best of the best. Do you think they are work the 3k price tag? Compared to something like Fortune auto?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by future

I love dogs also! I'm a boxer dog type of guy so mine will never get that big


but out of curiosity how do you like your KW coils? I'm debating then for my Z I plan on getting pretty soon cause in my mind that's the best of the best. Do you think they are work the 3k price tag? Compared to something like Fortune auto?

I don't have anything to really compare them to coilover vise. They are the only set I've owned. Ride comfort is very nice, they aren't stiff and respond to bumps and imperfections in the road well. I haven't adjusted them from factory settings yet, but they are very tolerable to DD. I think my only two complaints would be the lower spring perches are a composite material. If you aren't careful you can easily strip out the set screw that "locks" to the strut body. Also the fact that camber plates aren't a standard option for the V3's and you have to either reuse portions of the factory mount or buy plates. With that, there are only a two plates that I know of that work in conjunction with the KWs, Tein, which have a rather high stack height and the factory KWs that are stupid money and it's almost worth it to spend the extra money upfront and go Clubsport from the beginning.
They've shot up in price over the past few years. I paid under 1500$ BNIB for mine way back when. I think you'd be happy with them if you aren't going to dump your car on its nuts and want an aggressive and functional ride height.