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Old 06-10-2013, 02:36 PM   #151
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Tire pressure should be between 12-15psi, 10psi is the lower limit.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #152
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I got on the mickey t site and for street radials i thought it said 8-10 psi. I started at 15 psi and I think my fastest pass was with them set at 15. But I'm going dyno before I go racing again. I was shifting into 4th before the line though. Reving out to 7800rpm
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
Tire pressure should be between 12-15psi, 10psi is the lower limit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idahotuner View Post
I got on the mickey t site and for street radials i thought it said 8-10 psi. I started at 15 psi and I think my fastest pass was with them set at 15. But I'm going dyno before I go racing again. I was shifting into 4th before the line though. Reving out to 7800rpm
Correction to my original post. I'm assuming your street radials are 275's and should be run between 14-18psi no lower than 11psi.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:30 PM   #154
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Ran a 12.4 this weekend. Still spinning 2nd alot and 3rd a little. Bet 60' was 1.93. I need to get on a dyno cause one of the cars I raced was a stock 5.0 2012 and he launched a little better, I almost caught him in 2nd busted loost. Theso he got ahead again. Then hit 3rd and i end up being a car length ahead when we crossed the line.

For times like this I really wonder how effective the boost by gear, boost by rpm, and traction control tuning available in the aem stand alone could be.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:31 PM   #155
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I'm using an apexi avcr to control boost. I know I'm setting it and its staying because I double check it using my mechanical gauge and the boost gauge on the controler
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:34 PM   #156
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Also I can only make so much boost up until the point I break loose.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:22 PM   #157
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Quote:
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For times like this I really wonder how effective the boost by gear, boost by rpm, and traction control tuning available in the aem stand alone could be.
I know from the FWD world that it's pointless. Much easier to make up for traction with a taller tire and a longer burnout
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:56 AM   #158
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Traction is hard to get in a fwd anyways.

But as far as the op blowing off the tires I wasnt suggesting anything is wrong with your boost controller. What I was saying is with aem ems you can have it run different boost at different rpms, different gears and different wheel speeds to reduce the chance of spinning. Then if it detects wheel spin you can have it further reduce boost. If it is still detecting boost you can have it reduce timing or cut it ect to detune the engine until traction is regained. I have never messed with it personally but it does seem like there are tons of tuning ability to help with traction. I just wonder if its any faster than working your foot. Most traction control systems I have seen let you spin too long, rob too much power when it comes on, and then lets it rip again with too much power (rinse and repeat)
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:38 AM   #159
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Hey man, if you end up with any questions about the engine setup let me know. My GTX3076R sleeved/solid lifter SR is now tuned, stable and daily driven. I have about a thousand miles on it now.

With sticky 275/40/17 NT05s it will just barely stick third in a straight line. 1st and 2nd will spin when boost hits. I just got a new GoPro Hero cam and will have video to post soon. I wouldn't mind going to the drag strip for fun, but if I mounted up drag radials I probably would break an axle and I don't want to spend $1,800 for the Mazworks axles.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #160
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Yeah. The acvr has gear based biist and rpm based boost control. Only running 22-23 psi in third. I don't want to break shit either. But before I hit the track up again I want to see what kind of power I'm making
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:40 AM   #161
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You're probably going to have to keep the boost relatively low in first and second. Wastegate pressure would be your best bet in first gear. In second you may want to bump it up 3-5psi and then by third you should be able to lay it full on.

It also sounds like you need to heat those tires up more and do a burn out through the line.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:14 PM   #162
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You need a real slick, and a good 2nd gear burnout. 26.5 et streets and turn up the boost!
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:31 PM   #163
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Race fuel in the 240 and 30psi. Its a scary machine. Didn't even do a 4th gear pull. One close call with a cop who flipped his radar on to late. Then later pulled over for being to loud by a bored cop. The nissan is safely back in the drive way. Rpms r crazy fast. Before u hsve the petal mashed in 1st your shifting to 2nd then 3rd . Boost controller is maxed out. Waste gate never opens turbo is spoolling all the way to redline. I need 1000more rpm cayse this 7800 shift is killing me lol
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:13 PM   #164
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So how about that dyno sheet...
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:36 PM   #165
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They canceled the dyno day for today. I am jus going call and schedual one for friday I think
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:11 PM   #166
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Dyno scheduled for five on friday wish me luck
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:13 PM   #167
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490 hp 454 ft lbs at 25psi
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:23 PM   #168
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walk around of the car

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Old 08-19-2013, 02:50 PM   #169
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link doesn't work
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:34 PM   #170
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Fixed it the link
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:27 AM   #171
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What octane fuel and boost were you running in the dyno chart posted?
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #172
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110 rc fuel and 25psi
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #173
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Tq dropped because my boost gauge popped off the vacuum line for it at the intake manifold
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