Redtop SR20 Haltech platinum sport1000 no start

[misfitsfreak81]

yes actually it was a bad cas and more importantly it was the wiring that goes into the harness conector. the two wires that are for the 1degreee signal were not making good contact. de-pinned them, spread the contact points in the female pins and all was golden. getting a rock solid rpm signal now. goes to show that you should check the easiest shit first no mater how positive you are that something is right.

mike

[stricnynel0s]

ok so now its an issue with the map ? what tuning method are you using ?

[misfitsfreak81]

tuning via map and load not ve. i think this answers your question.

i just updated to the new haltech software and firmware so that may have some affect on it maybe... gonna try it again in a few mins i guess.

[stricnynel0s]

i heard people had issues with the version 1.07 and its only good for platinum pro users you might want to stick with the older version. i just got my haltech running now, i was feeling lil sour now i am estatic

[midnight_rex]

Originally Posted by misfitsfreak81

yes actually it was a bad cas and more importantly it was the wiring that goes into the harness conector. the two wires that are for the 1degreee signal were not making good contact. de-pinned them, spread the contact points in the female pins and all was golden. getting a rock solid rpm signal now. goes to show that you should check the easiest shit first no mater how positive you are that something is right.

mike

wow so wiring was the main issue. i know there is more than one wire for the 1 degree signal. isnt there 2 more wires that are similar to it? i dont think i have the other 2 wires hooked up in the harness. i just took them out since they were never used. i only have the 1 degree signals wired up. i hope i dant have a issue.

good to hear you fix the problem mike. keep us updated!

[misfitsfreak81]

Originally Posted by midnight_rex

wow so wiring was the main issue. i know there is more than one wire for the 1 degree signal. isnt there 2 more wires that are similar to it? i dont think i have the other 2 wires hooked up in the harness. i just took them out since they were never used. i only have the 1 degree signals wired up. i hope i dant have a issue.

good to hear you fix the problem mike. keep us updated!

if you have an s13 motor than the wires you need hooked up are as follows
#30 ecu pin white cas180 degree signal wire
#31 ecu pin black cas1 degree signal
#22 ecu pin white cas180 degree signal
#40 ecu pin black cas1 degree signal

you HAVE to have these wired in correctly. there are 4 wires that are in the cas plug and six that go into the ecu. the black and white ones in the pins mentioned above are split about 6 inches from the blue ecu conector. hope this helps.

as a quick update, i just got a map back from haltech that eric modified for me so im going to try that in a bit.

mike

[midnight_rex]

Originally Posted by misfitsfreak81

if you have an s13 motor than the wires you need hooked up are as follows
#30 ecu pin white cas180 degree signal wire
#31 ecu pin black cas1 degree signal
#22 ecu pin white cas180 degree signal
#40 ecu pin black cas1 degree signal

you HAVE to have these wired in correctly. there are 4 wires that are in the cas plug and six that go into the ecu. the black and white ones in the pins mentioned above are split about 6 inches from the blue ecu conector. hope this helps.

as a quick update, i just got a map back from haltech that eric modified for me so im going to try that in a bit.

mike

im gonna go over this tonight and make sure. im pretty sure i dont have the 180 degree signals wired up. thanks mike for the info.

[misfitsfreak81]

yeah your welcome.

so update time
i just tried to start the motor on the map that i got from eric at haltech. it would not start. so i pulled the plugs to do a compression test(figured i would start at square one) and found the #1 and #4 plugs super fouled. anyone have any ideas?

[stricnynel0s]

i did my map with VE, check your injector MS, make a datalog with as much info as possible and post it up, i will try to see if i can help you

[midnight_rex]

would it not start with steves base map? sounds like your dumping a lot of fuel. hows your fuel pressure?

[misfitsfreak81]

Originally Posted by midnight_rex

would it not start with steves base map? sounds like your dumping a lot of fuel. hows your fuel pressure?

i got it to start on steves map but only by clearflood starting it. then it would only run if held at like 1500-2000 rpm. im pretty sure that it was only firing on #1 and #4 cylinders as those are the only ones that show color on my turbo manifold and those were also the only plugs that showed signs of combustion. so im workink on figureing out why the fuck only 1 and 4 are working now. this is really starting to piss me off.

[Om1kron]

did this car ever run before you purchased a haltech, or you just built the car and threw engine management on it? It just seems so weird that a plug and play ecu is having so many problems.

[stricnynel0s]

hmm could be the configuration of the map OR your dizzy or ignitor wiring

[misfitsfreak81]

yes the car ran for the better part of 3 years with the stock ecu and mild bolt ons. now that its got a fresh rebuild and a lot more bolt ons and internals its been a pain in my ass.
it sat for almost a year after the old turbo manifold that was on it cracked badly, so i just put it away to save for the build. i have to believe that its something stupid easy that im missing to cause it to not start. any suggestions are welcome.

mike

[misfitsfreak81]

Originally Posted by stricnynel0s

hmm could be the configuration of the map OR your dizzy or ignitor wiring

yes it certainly could be the map configuration. the cas is brand new oem nissan, the ignitor wiring is good, ive checked the shit like 110 times now. im gonna try a different ignitor in a bit.

appriciate all the helpful comments, thanks people of zilvia

[midnight_rex]

mike,

i checked continuity for the 1 degree and 180 degree wires and only 2 of these wires are used on my haltech patch loom. it uses one of each signal wire. i for got why i didnt have the other 2 signal wires hooked up.

p.s. i confirmed that i did wire in a 180 degree signal and 1 degree signal in that right place. only 2 of these wires are used in the haltech. i wonder why? or do i have this incorrect?

[misfitsfreak81]

Originally Posted by midnight_rex

mike,

i checked continuity for the 1 degree and 180 degree wires and only 2 of these wires are used on my haltech patch loom. it uses one of each signal wire. i for got why i didnt have the other 2 signal wires hooked up.

p.s. i confirmed that i did wire in a 180 degree signal and 1 degree signal in that right place. only 2 of these wires are used in the haltech. i wonder why? or do i have this incorrect?

you are correct, the haltech harness only uses one of each wire. im not sure as to why that is, but you have it right.

so here is what ive got now. ive checked that the ignitor is good, the coil packs are all good. all associated wiring that has anything to do with ignition has been checked and is good. the firing order is correct. the timing is spot on both mechanically and synced with the haltech. checked the eccs and ignition relays and booth are working correctly. yet i still have no spark to #2 and #3 cylinders. ive litterally checked and rechecked everything multiple times. im starting to go crazy that this fucker wont start. please someone help me with some ideas or suggestions. thanks.

mike

[Om1kron]

time to send the harness to someone else to be repaired.

[midnight_rex]

ok lets lay it out for a minute...

1. ignitor wiring and ignitor module is OK
2. coil packs are OK
3. eccs and ignition relays are OK
4. firing order is OK
5. mechanical timing is OK
6. ignition timing is OK

now...you are getting fuel for sure because your plugs are fouled on #2 and #3 cylinders. but this necessarily doesnt mean that your injectors are working properly. sometimes this comes from injector pulses malfunctioning. make sure all your injectors are working properly. also remember when a spark plug does not get spark/power, the only thing that is transferring power to it is the coil. if you are seeing that #2 and #3 spark plugs are getting power VISUALLY BY YOUR OWN EYES, then has to be something wrong with the injectors. if you do not see spark then its got to be a bad coil pack.

this is just the way im seeing it right now. ive been thinking about your problem somtime durring this late night because i was at my shop with a friend discussing your problem while having quite a few beers it doesnt make sense if you have both spark and fuel but not starting unless your mechanical timing is WAAAAY off or your CAS is not set right.

[misfitsfreak81]

Originally Posted by midnight_rex

ok lets lay it out for a minute...

1. ignitor wiring and ignitor module is OK
2. coil packs are OK
3. eccs and ignition relays are OK
4. firing order is OK
5. mechanical timing is OK
6. ignition timing is OK

now...you are getting fuel for sure because your plugs are fouled on #2 and #3 cylinders. but this necessarily doesnt mean that your injectors are working properly. sometimes this comes from injector pulses malfunctioning. make sure all your injectors are working properly. also remember when a spark plug does not get spark/power, the only thing that is transferring power to it is the coil. if you are seeing that #2 and #3 spark plugs are getting power VISUALLY BY YOUR OWN EYES, then has to be something wrong with the injectors. if you do not see spark then its got to be a bad coil pack.

this is just the way im seeing it right now. ive been thinking about your problem somtime durring this late night because i was at my shop with a friend discussing your problem while having quite a few beers it doesnt make sense if you have both spark and fuel but not starting unless your mechanical timing is WAAAAY off or your CAS is not set right.

you are correct that everything that you listed above is good. im seeing fouling on #1 and #4 plugs, they are darkish black and smell heavily of gas. the #2 and #3 have no sign of even sparking and there is no heat coloring on #2 and #3 exhaust runners. that tells me that ignition events have not happened in #2 and #3. now im saying im getting fuel in those two chambers because when ive pulled the plugs there is fuel on the top of the piston still. and the plug is clean yet smells heavily of fuel.

5 min ago i did another visual check to see that the #2 and #3 coilpacks were indeed firing, which they are, at least in open air. im wondering if im running too cold of plugs. they are ngk iridiums in a coldness of 9. im going to try my old plugs wich were a 6 i believe and see if that helps matters any.

just to reafirm, this car ran untill a year ago, it ran well albeit on the lean side of things untill the turbo manifold cracked and it was put down for a bit.

thanks to everyone who has made suggestions, please continue to keep it up all help is welcome.

mike

[Om1kron]

WTF WHY ARE YOU RUNNING 9's lol 7 is the coldest you should be running unless it's constantly 160 degree's outside where you live which is barometrically impossible. Unless you live literally in butt fuck egypt.

[midnight_rex]

yea mike, u should be running 7 at the most. just get some copper plugs. throw out the iridium or just save them for something else.

none of this makes sense. it has to be something very simple. im wondering if you have to have all 4 signal wires from the CAS hooked to the haltech tho. have you asked haltech about that?

[Om1kron]

there is also a possibility that either the haltech unit itself has gone bad at this point. do you not have the stock ecu to see if it will at least get the car to fire up?

[misfitsfreak81]

well the plugs were purchased by looking at the enjuku website and they recomend 9s for 21+psi of boost. so maybe i fucked myself on that one. i have spare plugs though so ill try them.

yes all 4 wires from the cas are hooked properly to the haltech harness. i will double check this again in 5 min or so.

im kinda wondering if the haltech has taken a shit. i really hope not seeing as its brand new.

im going to go try it with the old plugs in it and see if there is any luck. back in a bit. thanks again.

mike

[Om1kron]

there is a huge possibility the ecu may have fried, and hopefully is under warranty or something (unless you bought it used.) hence why I am asking if you have a stock ecu to perform an experiment control with.

if the engine starts with the old ecu and not the haltech and you have a steve shadows and haltech basemap. it's obvious the ECU has bricked.

[midnight_rex]

yea try and get ahold of another ECU too. this can deffinately tell you that there is something wrong with the ECU

[misfitsfreak81]

yeah i still have the stock ecu sitting on the shelf in my garage. do you think it will start it though?? im running a bigger turbo, bigger injectors, greddy intake mani. i have no maf anymore due to the haltech running map. the haltech unit is brand new, bought from 240sxmotoring


so i just got it to start by doing a clear flood start with the haltech basemap. would not idle though, had to keep it at 1500-2000 rpm. pulled the plugs afterward and found that i still have no combustion on just #3 now. do you think if the map was still super rich that it would totally stop just one cylinder from firing? plugs 1,2 and 4 were sooty black this time. they iridium 5 heat range. thanks

mike

[midnight_rex]

no it would not start with the stock ecu. ur correct. do u have a fuel pressure regulator? what the pressure at? how do u have your iacv hooked up?

[midnight_rex]

im really running out of suggestions...seriously. did you have the timing setting on the haltech to be at 15*?

[stricnynel0s]

SEND US A DATALOG of you sitting with car set to ign on, you cranking, and maybe you running, where do you live ? do you live near NJ ?

i was honsetly fed up with my haltech, but all problems causing it not to run were caused me so i cannot be too mad in the long run, haltech doesent have best support channel thats why the end users need to stick togeather lol