High HP SR Spark Blowout....Discussion/Solutions

[codyace]

Originally Posted by xska

Remove CAS and spin the shaft, it should be constant resistance both way.
but if it spins free and drags, most likely bad bearing causing timing to jump up and down.

Obivously I may be wrong, but I was always under the impression that the gear on the bottom of the cas shaft is 'direct' with the pickup wheel inside the CAS itself. As in, regardless of a bearing being shot, the direct gear to cam contact wouldn't rely on the bearing for the picup to work (as again, it's just a large round disc with XXX number of holes in it that a laser beam reads...

I could be way wrong, but this is just off the top of my head

Originally Posted by VNG704

Just a guess, but I think the bolts that hold down the coil packs are also grounds for the coil packs. How did I guess this? Well I have the Sun Auto Hyperforce ignition thing and the wire harness for it has 4 ground wires that I ground to each of those 4 bolts that hold down the coil packs. Other wise why would Sun Auto have the grounds set up like that? Instead of one ground wire to chassis, know what I mean? So your problem could be that one missing bolt/ground. Try getting a bolt for that missing one.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm about 95% sure they are not the ground, as the ground goes through the clip/wiring to each one. I know the part where the bolt goes through are metal, but it's in essence just a bushing in an otherwise all plastic housing.


Justin: When you develop the misfire issue, does it do it when free revving?

CAS can seem like a likely culprit for sure...as before, i would almost always say 'maf issue' for most people, but being that you don't have it, there are only like 3 other things that can trigger this issue, CAS, and CTS.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by VNG704

Just a guess, but I think the bolts that hold down the coil packs are also grounds for the coil packs. How did I guess this? Well I have the Sun Auto Hyperforce ignition thing and the wire harness for it has 4 ground wires that I ground to each of those 4 bolts that hold down the coil packs. Other wise why would Sun Auto have the grounds set up like that? Instead of one ground wire to chassis, know what I mean? So your problem could be that one missing bolt/ground. Try getting a bolt for that missing one.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thank you for trying, but this isn't the issue.

Originally Posted by Z U L8R

dunno bout hyperforce coil packs, but the stock sr coil packs and the splitfires don't have to have the bolt there to ground it. it's there to just hold the coil onto the plug.

i was pretty sure you were d-jetro but i didn't feel like reading back through 3 pages lol which is why i said "(if you have one)" speaking about the maf.

because the problem has been getting progressively worse it does sound like a failing part slowly taking a crap, but like i said, if you can just log the rpm on your next test drive, datalog when it's sputtering and if the rpm log doesn't mimic the sputter or doesn't randomly cut out then you can pretty much deduce the cas as not the problem.

i know the car's at your parent's house so you can't go outside and do it right this minute, but log the rpm feedback on your next test drive when you pop the new ignitor in there.

gl, you're almost there.

Dave

Will do.

Originally Posted by codyace

Obivously I may be wrong, but I was always under the impression that the gear on the bottom of the cas shaft is 'direct' with the pickup wheel inside the CAS itself. As in, regardless of a bearing being shot, the direct gear to cam contact wouldn't rely on the bearing for the picup to work (as again, it's just a large round disc with XXX number of holes in it that a laser beam reads...

I could be way wrong, but this is just off the top of my head





I'm about 95% sure they are not the ground, as the ground goes through the clip/wiring to each one. I know the part where the bolt goes through are metal, but it's in essence just a bushing in an otherwise all plastic housing.


Justin: When you develop the misfire issue, does it do it when free revving?

CAS can seem like a likely culprit for sure...as before, i would almost always say 'maf issue' for most people, but being that you don't have it, there are only like 3 other things that can trigger this issue, CAS, and CTS.

Haven't tried it free revving yet, but good idea.

What is the CTS? (lame of me to not know....googling now).

EDIT:

Duh, before I even got to google...I remember it is an abbrev. for Coolant Temp. Sensor.

Well, I know it isn't that, because I can physically read the temperature off of the PFC Commander....and it is a steady 81-83 Celsius.

Praying to god I don't have to buy a new CAS.....

[jspaeth]

Worth a read...makes me feel better :-)

Faulty Ignition Control Module Symptoms | eHow.com


By the way, since the ignitor chip has metal on one side, is it recommended to mount it to the firewall somewhere to pull heat from it?

[2fast4y0u]

i have had my swap done and running for a while with the ignitor chip sitting in a bunch of wires with no heat issues to it. it probably wouldnt be a bad thing to do, but not necessary

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

i have had my swap done and running for a while with the ignitor chip sitting in a bunch of wires with no heat issues to it. it probably wouldnt be a bad thing to do, but not necessary

I would have said the same thing...going on 4 years....

[2fast4y0u]

yeah man, this is strange. hopefully u figure it out soon.

[jspaeth]

FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK

New ignitor chip in, and the EXACT same behavior

Car drove fine for 15 minutes, then started to misfire around 6K, then around 5K, finally down around 4K.


I am so completely and utterly fucked

Does anyone have any ideas PLEASE?


I have replaced Ignitor, spark plugs, and coilpacks, and still the same issues.


The only things left are CAS (VERY doubtful, because of the way the car is running) and the ECU


If it is the ECU, I am gonna flip the fuck out, because that's gonna cost me about a grand to replace.


does anyone have any miracle ideas for me????



$20 paypalled to you if you come up with the solution to my issue, guaranteed.

[jamanrr]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK

New ignitor chip in, and the EXACT same behavior

Car drove fine for 15 minutes, then started to misfire around 6K, then around 5K, finally down around 4K.


I am so completely and utterly fucked

Does anyone have any ideas PLEASE?


I have replaced Ignitor, spark plugs, and coilpacks, and still the same issues.


The only things left are CAS (VERY doubtful, because of the way the car is running) and the ECU


If it is the ECU, I am gonna flip the fuck out, because that's gonna cost me about a grand to replace.


does anyone have any miracle ideas for me????



$20 paypalled to you if you come up with the solution to my issue, guaranteed.

Dude. Do NOT get frustrated. Keep your head or your never gonna find it. I almost bought a brand new built bottom end (which I want to do anyway) before I noticed I blew a coupler off instead of the engine. I would look at fuel now if you have checked the grounds and ignition. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If it is like a fuel cut out then your pressure might be dropping some how. If you have opened your ECU up and looked at and saw no burnt electronic bits and everything is ok then you need to look at things it has to be instead of guessing at things you know it can not be. It will be the last thing that you check. good luck.

[xska]

Bad CAS does weird stuff, mifire at high RPM, no start, runs but no power, bouncing tach.
power-fc is very liable unless engine harness is wired wrong or shorted.
And did you check power wire from alternator to fuse box?
Everybody talks about ground wires all the time, but bad power wire does same thing.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by jamanrr

Dude. Do NOT get frustrated. Keep your head or your never gonna find it. I almost bought a brand new built bottom end (which I want to do anyway) before I noticed I blew a coupler off instead of the engine. I would look at fuel now if you have checked the grounds and ignition. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If it is like a fuel cut out then your pressure might be dropping some how. If you have opened your ECU up and looked at and saw no burnt electronic bits and everything is ok then you need to look at things it has to be instead of guessing at things you know it can not be. It will be the last thing that you check. good luck.

I have never once just "stabbed at this problem BLINDLY"....

I have systematically checked out EVERY SINGLE part of the ignition diagram that I posted in this thread earlier. Checked continuity on all wires (CAS included), new ignitor, new coilpacks....


The only thing I still have to check would be to swap out the ignition coil relay for a different relay....I HIGHLY doubt that a relay can cause such heat and RPM-dependent problems however

Originally Posted by xska

Bad CAS does weird stuff, mifire at high RPM, no start, runs but no power, bouncing tach.
power-fc is very liable unless engine harness is wired wrong or shorted.
And did you check power wire from alternator to fuse box?
Everybody talks about ground wires all the time, but bad power wire does same thing.

Okay. Let me set this straight....I DO appreciate your help....


The car is wired PROPERLY....this has been a PEFECTLY-FUNCTIONING SR swap for 5 years.

The latest mechanical engine changes (head work and cams and stuff) ahs been working perfectly for 10 MONTHS.


This is not something like "wrong timing" or "bad tune".



With that in mind, I have an in cabin fuel-pressure gauge, so I can confirm that FP is where it's supposed to be.


The misfires are not "lean misfires", they are super-rich backfires that are occurring....fuel IS being delivered, but not ignited, as far as I can tell.

[xska]

So you are on same CAS for 5 years and if it's original one from S14... 15 years old.
I have seen two S15 CAS going bad ....S13 i have replaced 7-8, S14 2-3.
They are like brake pads, it's not going to last forever.
New CAS is worth changing for future problem, even it's not your problem now.
BUT DONT BUY CHINA CAS. You must buy nissan oem, for better result.

[KiLLeR2001]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK

New ignitor chip in, and the EXACT same behavior

Car drove fine for 15 minutes, then started to misfire around 6K, then around 5K, finally down around 4K.

$20 paypalled to you if you come up with the solution to my issue, guaranteed.

This is telling me something HEAT related is causing problems. Do you have a heat shield on the exhaust manifold? Look for wires close to any hot spots in your engine bay and bend the wires around to see if they bend easy or if they are hard and brittle.

If your engine runs fine when you first start it, then when it gets to operating temp it starts to have issues, I'd say go from there.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

This is telling me something HEAT related is causing problems. Do you have a heat shield on the exhaust manifold? Look for wires close to any hot spots in your engine bay and bend the wires around to see if they bend easy or if they are hard and brittle.

If your engine runs fine when you first start it, then when it gets to operating temp it starts to have issues, I'd say go from there.

Thank you for chiming in....I agree (have determined this a while ago) that it is heat related.

The only things left are:

1) CAS
2) ECU
3) Ignition Coil relay (very very very very doubtful).


It is possible (I hope it's not) that the ECU has something going on microscopically on the circuit board that only manifests itself when the car has been running for a while.


I am hoping it is the CAS before the ECU, but other than those two, don't know what else it could be.



I am going to try swapping back in my old injectors, MAF sensor, and stock ECU....

If the problem goes away, then I KNOW it is either the ECU itself or something funky (corrupted tune?....I DOUBT THIS, because that wouldn't manifest itself after 20 minutes of driving....)


ALSO, I should add that the fact that the car won't start when it gets like this (even though the car was just running fine between 0 and 4000 RPM) leads me to believe that it is NOT the CAS....

if it WAS the CAS, how could the car run fine between 0 and 4000 RPM but then not start up?


Sounds like weak/bad spark to me.

[Mirage]

I didn't read last 2 pages, i'm about to go to bed, but i'll fire off my experience that may help you out here. I had bad stumbling at higher rpm's too when the car warmed up.

Do you have e-fans? I had a similar problem that I couldn't figure it out. I finally got my wideband and watched, and as soon as the car was getting warmed up and fans kicking on and off (greddy mss controlled) I could watch my afr's dip in to the 9-10's. Same with the rear defrost or headlights, I knew it had to be a ground issue. Ended up being the negative terminal ground, not the terminal itself, but the where it bolts to the body by the fusebox was loose, and would make it sporadic at first, then it got worse, but the weld nut was stripped out and rusty so I sanded the paint underneath and threw a nut on the underside of it as well. Might be worth it to double check all your grounds if you haven't already.

I'll get back to this post tomorrow morning after work read the other 2 pages, so sorry if i'm repeating anything thats already been said.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by Mirage

I didn't read last 2 pages, i'm about to go to bed, but i'll fire off my experience that may help you out here. I had bad stumbling at higher rpm's too when the car warmed up.

Do you have e-fans? I had a similar problem that I couldn't figure it out. I finally got my wideband and watched, and as soon as the car was getting warmed up and fans kicking on and off (greddy mss controlled) I could watch my afr's dip in to the 9-10's. Same with the rear defrost or headlights, I knew it had to be a ground issue. Ended up being the negative terminal ground, not the terminal itself, but the where it bolts to the body by the fusebox was loose, and would make it sporadic at first, then it got worse, but the weld nut was stripped out and rusty so I sanded the paint underneath and threw a nut on the underside of it as well. Might be worth it to double check all your grounds if you haven't already.

I'll get back to this post tomorrow morning after work read the other 2 pages, so sorry if i'm repeating anything thats already been said.

It's okay, thanks for trying...

I too have a wideband....and the AFRs are perfect...

For example, under slight vacuum, I can slowly rev the car up and watch the AFRs stay in the 14-15 range.

So it is not due to it being too rich.



JUST put in old injectors and stock ECU and MAF....about to go see what happens......


I am PRAYING that it does NOT work....because if it does, it means my PowerFC is probably hosed internally.

[KiLLeR2001]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

ALSO, I should add that the fact that the car won't start when it gets like this (even though the car was just running fine between 0 and 4000 RPM) leads me to believe that it is NOT the CAS....

if it WAS the CAS, how could the car run fine between 0 and 4000 RPM but then not start up?


Sounds like weak/bad spark to me.

Does the car continue to crank over but never start? Then you have to wait like 10-20 mins until it will start again? I read this thread a few days ago so I can't remember but, have you recently replaced your ecu coolant temp sensor? I've replaced a few of these sensors personally and when they go bad they always make the car run like shit. Once the car is shut off after it gets warmed up, it will not crank over until about 10 to 20 minutes.

I doubt its the CAS...

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Does the car continue to crank over but never start? Then you have to wait like 10-20 mins until it will start again? I read this thread a few days ago so I can't remember but, have you recently replaced your ecu coolant temp sensor? I've replaced a few of these sensors personally and when they go bad they always make the car run like shit. Once the car is shut off after it gets warmed up, it will not crank over until about 10 to 20 minutes.

I doubt its the CAS...

Just found an indication that it may be the Ignition Coil Relay.

If this is the case, the person that told me to check it will get a few bucks.


Anyway, put back in the stock ECU, MAF, and Injectors....car wouldn't start....even after letting it sit the whole weekend...

SO I FINALLY checked the Ignition coil relay....sure as shit, it was not clicking.

The hot side of the coil on that relay was not getting power....ground was good, and hot switched side was good, but the hot side of the coil was not getting shit.


I can temporarily splice a wire into the switched 12V coming out of the ECCS relay, and splice it into the hot side of the coil for ignition relay...


However, I would like to trace that wire back and see where the connection is bad.


If this is the "overall" problem, I will be dumbfounded.....how could the relay supply power to the coils up to a certain RPM, and then stop doing so past a certain RPM?

[2fast4y0u]

i will try to keep this story as short as possible. so get this. like a month ago i got a new rom tune from Enthalpy that has a launch controller in it. my car ran great so the tune was staying the same but the launch controller was new. get the chips, put them in, car no run...
make some phone calls, get new chips again, nothing. send in my ecu, get it back, no fuel pump now. i have to by pass the fuel pump wire in the ecu and ground it just to make my fuel pump work.
yesterday i had some extra time so i figured i was do some things to my car that needed to be done.
cleaned my iacv, checked my coolant level, etc... i remembered that during this whole ordeal my turbo timer stop working(yeah i know they are stupid but i like it). so i wanted to look into this.
well, after searching near my ecu i find that the fuel pump from the ecu wire that i had to cut and ground and been melted by a power wire and are touching. burned the insulation clear through on both wires. im pretty sure its the power wire for my turbo timer.
come to find out the ecu fuel pump wire supplies a ground to the relay, and the power wire that melted obviously has 12v to it.

moral of the story, check your wiring to the ecu. could be something getting hot in there

[jamanrr]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Just found an indication that it may be the Ignition Coil Relay.

If this is the case, the person that told me to check it will get a few bucks.


Anyway, put back in the stock ECU, MAF, and Injectors....car wouldn't start....even after letting it sit the whole weekend...

SO I FINALLY checked the Ignition coil relay....sure as shit, it was not clicking.

The hot side of the coil on that relay was not getting power....ground was good, and hot switched side was good, but the hot side of the coil was not getting shit.


I can temporarily splice a wire into the switched 12V coming out of the ECCS relay, and splice it into the hot side of the coil for ignition relay...


However, I would like to trace that wire back and see where the connection is bad.


If this is the "overall" problem, I will be dumbfounded.....how could the relay supply power to the coils up to a certain RPM, and then stop doing so past a certain RPM?

Yeah that be me. Instead of the money how about some beer -- Ice Cold Dos XXXs or some Corina Extra would work... amigo

Oh yeah and those relays when they go bad or have an intermittent problem like you have described they can affect everything from the fuel pump not being able to function properly and thus resulting in your break up. When you can not start it -- does it just crank and crank and no ignition. You should hear several things happening when you turn your key to on. The relay on the passenger side click and the fuel pump priming and on a walbro it is very noticeable.

oh yeah on a side note. those relays have circuit lines in them that will and can develop micro cracks in them. These over time led to various problems including not being able to start your car when it is hot. You can actually see them sometimes under a magnifying glass.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by jamanrr

Yeah that be me. Instead of the money how about some beer -- Ice Cold Dos XXXs or some Corina Extra would work... amigo

Oh yeah and those relays when they go bad or have an intermittent problem like you have described they can affect everything from the fuel pump not being able to function properly and thus resulting in your break up. When you can not start it -- does it just crank and crank and no ignition. You should hear several things happening when you turn your key to on. The relay on the passenger side click and the fuel pump priming and on a walbro it is very noticeable.

oh yeah on a side note. those relays have circuit lines in them that will and can develop micro cracks in them. These over time led to various problems including not being able to start your car when it is hot. You can actually see them sometimes under a magnifying glass.

UPDATE:

The Coil Relay does NOT click......but the ECCS relay does.


So, I tried jumpering a wire from the switched 12V of the ECCS to the + side of the coil on the Coil Relay.


NOW IT CLICKS.


HOWEVER, I then un-jumpered it....put it to the ON position....and NO click....as expected.....however, I then tried to start the car and it DID turn over....

WTF???????

So I have never had ANY electrical issues in 4+ years on this swap, and now it appears as though whoever wired the car, simply bypassed the ignition coil relay.....um....okay?

hahah

Well, perhaps that connection (no freaking clue where it is) is a bad connection....


I am going to check continuity between the switched side of the Coil Relay and the + terminal of the coilpacks....

If I get continuity, then I am going to simply splice the ignition coil relay coil-side + wire to the 12V switched wire coming off of the ECCS relay.......this is how it's done in the FSM.

[jspaeth]

Okay, so whoever did my wiring bypassed the ignition coil relay and is using the switched power coming FROM the ECCS relay as power to the coilpacks.


I checked to make sure the power wire in the plug that goes to the coilpack harness has 12V, and it does....

However, I have yet to check it when the problem starts occurring.....

[jamanrr]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Okay, so whoever did my wiring bypassed the ignition coil relay and is using the switched power coming FROM the ECCS relay as power to the coilpacks.


I checked to make sure the power wire in the plug that goes to the coilpack harness has 12V, and it does....

However, I have yet to check it when the problem starts occurring.....

that could be hard to do unless you have someone with you to test it out when it happens. Wiring in s14s sucks that is why I paid 380 to have yuri at wiring specialties do it.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by jamanrr

that could be hard to do unless you have someone with you to test it out when it happens. Wiring in s14s sucks that is why I paid 380 to have yuri at wiring specialties do it.

This is like super ghey...I feel like I am never gonna figure this out.

The problem only occurs after like 15 minutes of driving.

At that point, everything under the hood is so fucking hot I can't even touch it.

[codyace]

i'm glad you were at least able to determine/troubleshoot to the basic issue


regardless though, i hate not knowing the exact answer!

[2fast4y0u]

how close are those relays to heat? im not exactly sure where they are located hence my asking.
could they be getting hot and failing under load?

ninja edit: are they the same as another realy that you swap out on your car and see if the issue continues? like the fog light relay and the fuel pump relay...same thing.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

how close are those relays to heat? im not exactly sure where they are located hence my asking.
could they be getting hot and failing under load?

ninja edit: are they the same as another realy that you swap out on your car and see if the issue continues? like the fog light relay and the fuel pump relay...same thing.

Not close at all...they are under the kickpanel on pass. side.


As said before, it looks like the person who did my swap directly wired the power wire that feeds the coilpacks to the triggered power of the main ECCS relay, rather than using the Ignition coil relay, like the FSM does.


I don't think it is the relay....because this relay also provides power to the ECU itself....

So if the relay were giving intermittant power to the coilpacks, the ECU would not be getting steady power either, which it is.....


So it seems it is either the ECU or the CAS.....



On another note, when I restarted the car, I had forgotten to plug in coilpack #1, so I got a fresh feeling of what the car feels like when only 1 cylinder is missing.......let me tell you, the misfire I have is FAR too bad to be just a single cylinder missing....I swear that they are ALL missing.



Also, I put back in MAF, stock injectors, and stock ECU, but couldn't start the car....not sure why....

the only thing I could think of was that the extra wire to the ECU that I added for the PFC (Air Temp sensor) was screwing up the stock ECU.....??

[KiLLeR2001]

Have you replaced the ECU Coolant Sensor? They go without warning. I would definitely buy one ($15) and swap it in first, better than buying another CAS or ECU. If you have an S13 SR or S14 SR you can get one from Auto zone from a '96 300zx Twin Turbo. Also check the wires that go to this sensor and make sure its clipped on there correctly, there's a metal clip that locks it into place, if that clip isn't there it will probably wiggle around and not output the correct values.

Can you pull codes using your stock ECU? Anything come up?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Have you replaced the ECU Coolant Sensor? They go without warning. I would definitely buy one ($15) and swap it in first, better than buying another CAS or ECU. If you have an S13 SR or S14 SR you can get one from Auto zone from a '96 300zx Twin Turbo. Also check the wires that go to this sensor and make sure its clipped on there correctly, there's a metal clip that locks it into place, if that clip isn't there it will probably wiggle around and not output the correct values.

Can you pull codes using your stock ECU? Anything come up?

I have a PowerFC so I can read the digital Coolant Temp Sensor and it is a steady 81-84 C....that isn't the issue....

The car is not misfiring due to richness....let me say this yet again.....



As far as the stock ECU....when I put it in, I couldn't get the car to start....not sure why....maybe i needed to remove the one or 2 wires that I added to the harness for the PFC (intake air temp signal and ground)?????

[KiLLeR2001]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

I have a PowerFC so I can read the digital Coolant Temp Sensor and it is a steady 81-84 C....that isn't the issue....

The car is not misfiring due to richness....let me say this yet again.....



As far as the stock ECU....when I put it in, I couldn't get the car to start....not sure why....maybe i needed to remove the one or 2 wires that I added to the harness for the PFC (intake air temp signal and ground)?????

You need to fix the coil relay issue per FSM like you said, and then you need to see with the stock ECU if you are even getting spark at all.

edit:

First things first though, pull codes from your ecu..

Originally Posted by kazuo

TPS and/or Temp. Sensor interchange, anyone? let's not hijack this.

- this is general for 89-98 Nissan but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

You need to fix the coil relay issue per FSM like you said, and then you need to see with the stock ECU if you are even getting spark at all.

edit:

First things first though, pull codes from your ecu..

I don't see how the coil relay being used or not used makes a difference...the coilpacks are getting 12V...I checked...

Anyway, I tried putting the stock injectors back in, as well as the MAF, and the stock ECU...

Car will NOT start....can't really tell why.....fuel pump primes and gives the right fuel pressure....

Tried pulling codes (by jumping pin 23 with 12V for 2 seconds....I have a J4 ecu, so no screw....)

Sure as shit, I get nothing (except for a 55, which means nothing is wrong).

Then, I unplugged the MAF, and did it, and same thing, 55....

Does the car need to be running for it to throw codes?


Anyway, it would be nice if I could get the car to run on the stock ECU....it used to run (about 3 years ago) no problem on stock injectors and stock ECU, but now it won't even start up at all haha.

If I could get it to run on stock ECU, I could tell if the ECU was the issue....