SR20DET Redtop overheating when driving more than 20 miles on highway

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

God you really are an idiot...

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Dont feel obliged to come back, really.

^^This^^

[blkvrtswp]

Anyone can post pictures. It seems you have no answer to why replacing the radiator fixed the issue. Also no reply to repeated question of how do you "disconnect" the turbo - I've been waiting for this answer myself.

[Kingtal0n]

Cant let this thread die. too good.

Gota love that A/F curve.


Hey, I not know what eye doing. plz no hurt gharbad I make you good weapon.

[joe3180]

I must be some lucky guy. I had my redtop bone stock for 8 years of dd and ran 5k and over 100 quite often(speeding tickets show it). I had a big radiator and no oil cooler the whole time yet my car was still running strong after 120k of my miles put on the motor. I just recently had to motor pulled apart and my barring's are perfect. Oh that was with a t25 to boot. Guess I just really took care of my antique engine.

This has really be quite an entertain thread. I don't think I have ever laughed so hard on this forum.

I still want to know how to disconnect the turbine though...I was hoping to find out since it make no sense to me.

Maybe its just me but why would you ever even try to run the car with the coolant line disconnected on the stock t25 anyway?

[Kingtal0n]

Who is running a car with the coolant line disconnected?

Tuned this RB26 in an S13. Twin TO4E 50 trims. The most annoying part was dialing in the camshafts on the dyno.








Bottom end was built. We thought it could do more but the wastegate(s) gave out around 26psi.
I also fabricated (via tungsten inert gas welder) the intake pipes.

[joe3180]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimateirving View Post
Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

that wouldnt last more than a week. I know because Ive tried, back in 2004. You obviously have NOT since you would have known that already. Lack of experience is #1 in this thread.
post up pics of your redtop I want to see it.
__________________
electron mass : 9.11x10^-31 kilogram
electron charge: 1.60x10^-19 Coulomb

Maybe he was talking about this car and you were talking about a different one...I don't know but either way....

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by joe3180

Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimateirving View Post
Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

that wouldnt last more than a week. I know because Ive tried, back in 2004. You obviously have NOT since you would have known that already. Lack of experience is #1 in this thread.
post up pics of your redtop I want to see it.
__________________
electron mass : 9.11x10^-31 kilogram
electron charge: 1.60x10^-19 Coulomb

Maybe he was talking about this car and you were talking about a different one...I don't know but either way....

Oh my GOD yes. Back when I did my first ever sr20 swap (like a week after I learned what an SR20 was) I was installing the engine into an S13 and the coolant line in the back of the motor was crushed. So me, being new to turbochargers, figured I would just cut off the back and leave the coolant line disconnected on what I figured was an "oil cooled" turbocharger with just supplementary coolant lines.

BIG mistake. the turbo started smoking after about 100 miles. I didnt know what an SR20 was until 2004. I didnt know what a skyline was until 2005. I learn fast, but it takes mistakes to get there. Had to break a few things along the way. Notice my join date? Search my first ever posts on this forum and you will see the epitome of noob.

The car that started this thread was like SR swap #30 or #40. it has all of the goodies and knowledge of everything I ever built prior. One hell of a vehicle and the previous owner will realize just how incredible and perfect it was once if he tries to get another one. Nothing with a redtop will ever come close and he will be sorry he sold it.

[Kingtal0n]

Did some piston speed calculations on paper,


Then, decided to write some software to make it applicable to everyone and all engines.


Free for download.
http://rapidshare.com/files/337532810/pistons.exe

Source code so you can compile it yourself:
http://rapidshare.com/files/20567195...n%20SOURCE.zip

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

[a bunch of useless stolen pics]

Care to explain what you call "disconnecting the turbine", or do we need to ask again everytime and everywhere you post ?

And please stop trying to look smart. Piston speed does not matter, maximum piston speed does, and just an approximation is enough.

Formula for that is "stroke x RPM / 6" .

No need for derivatives and whatsnot

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Care to explain what you call "disconnecting the turbine", or do we need to ask again everytime and everywhere you post ?

And please stop trying to look smart. Piston speed does not matter, maximum piston speed does, and just an approximation is enough.

Formula for that is "stroke x RPM / 6" .

No need for derivatives and whatsnot

he already did in another thread

This was his ridiculous answer

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

you take off the tiny clip that holds the Wastegate actuator to the turbine and walaa done. Now you can hold the throttle body open on a T-25 turbine engine without the EGT skyrocketing.

[Kingtal0n]

yawn* why you spoiling my fun. I was holding back the answer to keep the thread going. Now I have to think of a new fun mystery to solve.

You simply pop the actuator off the turbine and its done, a temporary solution for any kind of driving where you want the engine to behave naturally aspirated. Thats the key here folks, all turbo engines can driven as naturally aspirated if you just pop off the actuator. Not a very difficult thing to do. And it does lower the heat output of the turbine, thereby lowering EGT temps, Oil Temps, Compressor outlet temps, etc....

So, new mystery. How is it that i, MYSELF, appear in all of my "stolen" pictures? I think you are just jealous.
This was before the skyline fiasco. I might have eventually owned an R34.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

he already did in another thread

This was his ridiculous answer

Yeah, i supposed he was talking about that. I think it is funny how an attention whore who has supposedly built hundreds of cars does not know what a wastegate flapper or an actuator arm is.

Ah well. I got a cure for that. Attention whores tend to disappear when they get ignored... so be it. It was fun when he was just funny, now that he has turned into a mental crook ... not so much.

I am done with him anyway.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Yeah, i supposed he was talking about that. I think it is funny how an attention whore who has supposedly built hundreds of cars does not know what a wastegate flapper or an actuator arm is.

Ah well. I got a cure for that. Attention whores tend to disappear when they get ignored... so be it. It was fun when he was just funny, now that he has turned into a mental crook ... not so much.

I am done with him anyway.

Oh your finally done? Your going to miss the pastries and salads. Shame.

Funny how Ive been here 8 years and never was an "attention whore" until you and others started calling me a "crook" "bullshit artist" "liar" "LSD abuser" "mentally handicapped" among other things.
I never once called anyone on this forum a name.

I am just defending my good honest reputation. You going to blame me for defending myself? What, I am just supposed to sit back and take it? I learned to hit hard because of bullys like you.



mess with the bull

[Mikester]

^^Hmm... Wonder if he built & tuned that thing too...

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Mikester

^^Hmm... Wonder if he built & tuned that thing too...

darn right I did. Ultra fine tuned. The body is a machine like no other.
More like a vehicle than you realize. A vehicle for your brain.
I apply a lot of what I know about cars to the human body.

And to make this post interesting, heres a cookie for good measure. er, kouki.


Heck, heres another cookie. this was my car only briefly before the swap, like maybe a month.
it looked so good it sold really really fast. Almost got into a fight handing over the title.















1. Always use mechanical fan/shroud
2. Battery stays in the battery tray where it belongs
3. Do not relocate the A/C dryer
4. Keep OEM crankcase evacuation (aka positive crankcase ventillation)
5. A/C always works

before paint




I bought it on ebay from somebody up north. The car was $4800 and delivery was about $400.

[tire shredder]

I have s13 red top, greddy oil pan cs oil filter relocation with gt2560r and big fmic. @80mph on high way Im sitting at 210* thats what my autometer guage shows, now my sending unit is tapped in on coolant exit side neck. Oem guage sits in middle. However if I get to 90mph this is @ 4000 rpm it will creep up to the top. I have cx racing radiator and two fans combo with a shroud. So me to have kind of issue like you. What i will do is get colder t-stat and decent oil cooler. If that doesnt help Im going to get smaller fmic so there is more air flow through the condencer to the radiator. I have silvia front and gtr grill now becouse with a silvia grill it would run hotter.

[Kingtal0n]

Switch to a fan shroud and mechanical fan first before pointing your finger as if there is a "problem".

The major danger of running an sr20det from 89-92 on the highway is the oil temperature. The factory radiator would let you know before you started cooking the oil.
An upgraded radiator may mask this "safety net" and allow the operator to unknowingly exceed safe operating conditions.
if you want to drive it forever, keep your cruise RPM reasonable.

[Danger_Dorn]

I just read all 4 pages of this horse shit. Get a god damn mother luvin water temp gauge and an oil temp gauge wouldn't hurt. My water temp gauge is usually maxed out when my water temp is at 180. You are a fucking idiot and hope you dont wreck that damn car/motor. Then again you had it coming for being a complete fucktard. Your water temps should never exceed 200. I have never been above 200 and I beat the shit out of mine and sit in 110 degree stop and go traffic for an hour in the summer.

Summary: You need to get proper temp gauges and see whats going on. Have a nice day and go fuck yourself

[Danger_Dorn]

Now for the useful input. The only thing he is right about here is that you CAN take the actuator off of the wastegate flapper and keep it open with saftey wire to run what would basically be N/A. I've done it but there is no damn point in doing it as your turbo is still going to spin.

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by Danger_Dorn

you CAN take the actuator off of the wastegate flapper and keep it open with saftey wire to run what would basically be N/A. I've done it...

For what?
msglngth

[Danger_Dorn]

Just to see how it runs n/a lol. Just out of curiosity.

[Danger_Dorn]

BTW I ran 80 mph at like 3k on the highway today for 20 mins...it was fine. My temp didnt even move. Then again its like 60 here right now.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Danger_Dorn

I just read all 4 pages of this horse shit. Get a god damn mother luvin water temp gauge and an oil temp gauge wouldn't hurt. My water temp gauge is usually maxed out when my water temp is at 180. You are a fucking idiot and hope you dont wreck that damn car/motor. Then again you had it coming for being a complete fucktard. Your water temps should never exceed 200. I have never been above 200 and I beat the shit out of mine and sit in 110 degree stop and go traffic for an hour in the summer.

Many factory engines run water temperatures beyond 200*F. In fact the coolant system in our 20 year old engines is designed to tolerate over 220*F, that is the whole point of using a cap with the capability to hold a pressure above atmospheric.

Many engines will also make the best power around 212*F or even hotter.

It is best from the thermodynamic point of view to keep an engine hotter. For every calorie of heat energy you lose is wasted fuel.

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Many factory engines run water temperatures beyond 200*F. In fact the coolant system in our 20 year old engines is designed to tolerate over 220*F, that is the whole point of using a cap with the capability to hold a pressure above atmospheric.

Many engines will also make the best power around 212*F or even hotter.

It is best from the thermodynamic point of view to keep an engine hotter. For every calorie of heat energy you lose is wasted fuel.

Kingtal0n is right, but I prefer a max temp of 194°f for a street car, it's something I can control if it creeps up and I get the best milage from it. When beating the car I keep temps around 185°f max.

110°c or 110°f? If °c then you are too hot, that's 230°f and if you meant °f, you're to cold, 43.3°f

Sent from my Highly Tune Galaxy S3.4!!!

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Mikester

For what?
msglngth

Its actually a tuning trick. If you tune any turbocharged engine at 0psi while the throttle valve is full open, you get a proper VE curve, if the engine uses a MAP sensor.

Now you can copy and paste your VE curve to all load points at any boost level. It takes the guess work out of tuning boost, makes life easy.
Not to mention it is much safer to work out the kinks of a new combination at 0psi. I always tune every engine at 0psi before moving on to boost, if possible.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

wow. this is my car. Everything is OEM and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

the water pump is brand new I just changed it a month or two ago. It pressurizes just fine to oem specifications and you know damn well Its got the OEM thermostat.
some creative ducting might help; the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

Well, there's your problem: this fucktard left bubbles in the system when he replaced the water pump.

Cause, yeah, there should be no problem cruising at 3500RPM as long as you're moving sufficiently fast. It's loud and hard on the engine and generally sucks, but it's still not going to make it overheat. Unless you're like, cruising up a giant mountain, at WOT, at 3500RPM. That would overheat anything.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Danger_Dorn

BTW I ran 80 mph at like 3k on the highway today for 20 mins...it was fine. My temp didnt even move. Then again its like 60 here right now.

When you're cruising at highway speeds, as long as your radiator is even close to big enough, you won't have heat problems unless there's something else wrong. If you have 60+mph wind through the radiator, even if it's really hot wind, it's moving a LOT of heat off - if it was a radiator problem, the overheating would happen at low speeds, or you wouldn't be able to idle in traffic.

You had an air bubble, or something else like that. For example, once I had to replace a thermostat (stuck open), and when I finished and topped off my coolant (was being lazy about bleeding, though) it idled just fine in a parking lot until it was hot. Raced the motor a few times, it was fine. Pulled out, and a quarter mile down the road my temp needle creeps up and up and up and up.... I start to panic, and pull over just as the needle hits the top white thing. I popped the hood to check for coolant or anything but left the motor running - saw nothing, ran back to the drivers seat, and the temp was already normal..... more than a year later, same coolant, system has not been opened, temps are always perfect.

Which is why, you will probably never be able to re-create the problem. If it does happen again, follow the most intensive bleeding instructions you can find, and it will go away.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Its actually a tuning trick.

maybe if you use a dynojet. on a real loading dyno (dynodynamics) this is pointless

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by inopsey

maybe if you use a dynojet. on a real loading dyno (dynodynamics) this is pointless

You can do it with out a dyno. A dyno will change peak ignition timing numbers, but so will a large hill or different fuel. We are trying to dial in fuel not timing.