been working on my swap

[b4l]

just wanted to show you guys what i have been up to

[ShadowMan]

Looks good, what management system are you running? Love me some strawberry faces!

[Dboyizmlg]

Nice! I like!
You running d-jetro?

[b4l]

AEM v2 right now im at a stand still with the swap.
i have no driveshaft
radiator hoses
pigtail for my map sensor
new boostcontroler for aem
gasket for the downpipe
radiator fans
claps

lol thats about it to fire it up

[b4l]

well i have been reading on a downpipe gasket and some ppl dont have a gasket and have no leaks what do you think

people with t3 5 bolt flange/downpipe setups, running a gasket? - Honda-Tech

[ShadowMan]

I'm currently not running a DP gasket, no leaks at that junction. Might want to consider a v-band setup if you're still trying to decide on how to do your exhaust. That's where I'm at. All my bolts rattle loose far to often so I'm redo'ing the exhaust with a couple vband clamps. That's not that big of a list to knock out, probably by the time a driveshaft is ordered and shipped, you'd be able to get the others items handled.

[b4l]

the pipe to turbo is 5 bolt no way around it, and the rest of my pipes are v band.

well get a better pic later on

[b4l]

better pic

[fliprayzin240sx]

No offense but what the fuck is the point of this thread and why is it in TECH?!?!

[b4l]

for questions i have that involve my swap
ex. my downpipe question

my next question is my map sensor im having trouble puting the pig tail in never mind it works

just need to know were the wires go.

ecu is aem 6601-0104

[b4l]

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/4457...ease-help.html

i have been searching just wanted to clear it up a bit

[Kingtal0n]

holy crap let the guy post up some pics of his engine! why so serious? why do you always come into threads cussing? like you actually need to be on this website or your gonna die! lol

Dont mind zilvians op they have nothing better to do than give people a hard time. In fact its their way of showing you love.

Looking good and fwiw if you post a thread up on zilvia and nobody comes in cussing and shitting all over the place then you done something wrong!!!

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

holy crap let the guy post up some pics of his engine! why so serious? why do you always come into threads cussing? like you actually need to be on this website or your gonna die! lol

Dont mind zilvians op they have nothing better to do than give people a hard time. In fact its their way of showing you love.

Looking good and fwiw if you post a thread up on zilvia and nobody comes in cussing and shitting all over the place then you done something wrong!!!

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

[Kingtal0n]

So im looking at it and picking it apart. I advise you to run a real crankcase evac system, especially if you have forged internals in that b!tch. I like the color scheme on the pulleys/rail do the valvecover next but maybe not that same color. the intake / air filter color is ugly get that powder coated the same like your cold pipe. use nice black hoses for the radiator. get a head shield around that brake master or it might melt and burn the car to the ground. clean up the wiring I dont like how they just meander about. get it hidden, extend it if you have to. use a name brand radiator, a griffin radiator custom fit would be the cat's meow on that engine.

just some random thoughts ok? thats why its here right, random thoughts and ideas can pour in.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

ok bad boy. you take off the tiny clip that holds the Wastegate actuator to the turbine and walaa done. Now you can hold the throttle body open on a T-25 turbine engine without the EGT skyrocketing.

[Sileighty_85]

how? That makes no sense! hot exhaust is still going through the turbo and heat is still getting pumped through the compressor housing.

It makes no diff with it connected or not when the turbo is in Vac.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

how? That makes no sense! hot exhaust is still going through the turbo and heat is still getting pumped through the compressor housing.

It makes no diff with it connected or not when the turbo is in Vac.

Forget about turbos for a second. We will come back to that.

Take a naturally aspirated engine of any make model. Now, decrease the size of the exhaust outlet. You will find that as you get smaller and smaller, the exhaust temperature starts to rise at the choke. Also, exhaust gas velocity increases as the port diameter decreases. That is one reason why manufacturers choose a happy medium between flow (large size) and exhaust gas velocity/temperature (small size). Smaller exhaust outlets tend to keep the exhaust gas hotter, which tends to increase the flow of the exhaust as well. Thats one reason putting a large catback on a small displacement naturally aspirated engine tends to decrease engine torque.

Back to turbochargers.
The turbine presents a restriction. as long as it is shut, the exhaust gas MUST flow through the turbine. That creates HEAT and BACKPRESSURE which is used to drive the compressor... which also creates its own heat as the air becomes compressed.

If you need more help with explanation I would be happy to but ask yours questions from there before I go further.

[b4l]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

Then a mod will move it. but i am asking questions about the engine.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Forget about turbos for a second. We will come back to that.

Take a naturally aspirated engine of any make model. Now, decrease the size of the exhaust outlet. You will find that as you get smaller and smaller, the exhaust temperature starts to rise at the choke. Also, exhaust gas velocity increases as the port diameter decreases. That is one reason why manufacturers choose a happy medium between flow (large size) and exhaust gas velocity/temperature (small size). Smaller exhaust outlets tend to keep the exhaust gas hotter, which tends to increase the flow of the exhaust as well. Thats one reason putting a large catback on a small displacement naturally aspirated engine tends to decrease engine torque.

Back to turbochargers.
The turbine presents a restriction. as long as it is shut, the exhaust gas MUST flow through the turbine. That creates HEAT and BACKPRESSURE which is used to drive the compressor... which also creates its own heat as the air becomes compressed.

If you need more help with explanation I would be happy to but ask yours questions from there before I go further.

So what your saying is that Nissan had no idea on what they were doing when they built these engines that have proven to last 20+ years with factory equipment while driving 70+mph on toll roads?

If that is the case why have these engines lasted 20+ years of DDing?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

So what your saying is that Nissan had no idea on what they were doing when they built these engines that have proven to last 20+ years with factory equipment while driving 70+mph on toll roads?

If that is the case why have these engines lasted 20+ years of DDing?

what kind of nonsense is that? I said that? I where did I say that. quote me.
You asked a physics question I gave you a physics answer. had nothing to do with road speed, chassis design flaws, inherent risks of swapping an engine, length of time engines sat in warehouses before being swapped, etc... thats a WHOLE different thing.

[Sileighty_85]

your saying the design is incorrect.

That because the WG actuator is connected it causes the engine to over heat when driven on the interstate at 60+mph @ 3K or 3.5K PRM or whatever the fuck you said.

EDIT: as well as bearing getting torn up which is the most retared thing I ever heard

EDIT X2: let me rephrase, your saying that because the exhaust housing is too small that it causes the engine to overheat.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

your saying the design is incorrect.

That because the WG actuator is connected it causes the engine to over heat when driven on the interstate at 60+mph @ 3K or 3.5K PRM or whatever the fuck you said.

EDIT: as well as bearing getting torn up which is the most retared thing I ever heard

whatever the fuck i said? Im still waiting to see what I said. Your are choosing your own words and thoughts and ideas because you have no clue what I actually said. If you stop cussing I would love to teach you something, I even have a video of my car that was supposedly "overheating" doing 100MPH which by the way was fine, after all that, wasn't it?

I never said the design was incorrect. cmon quote me you so sure.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I agree, 3k is no problem. 3k is 65mph. thats exactly where I told him to stay, well done good job. hes tryin to hit 3.5-4k continuously, 75-88mph. that IS a problem. too much friction, clearances are too tight for it. too much heat. rod bearing clearance on that engine is .0008" iirc. Turbine is too small. Once again, there is a reason they did not bring this engine to the USA and it has, in part, to do with climate.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah.

the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

This is the full retard stuff Im talking about that YOU said.

YOU said the Turbine is too small which means you think Nissan designed the engine wrong.


So now that you have been owned and my new born is finally asleep, Im out

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

your saying the design is incorrect.

EDIT X2: let me rephrase, your saying that because the exhaust housing is too small that it causes the engine to overheat.

I like where you are going with this. As an example, use a redtop.

Take a redtop on the highway and repeatedly blast it to 100mph and back to 60mph. do it once. twice. three times. watch the coolant temperature start to rise. with me so far? keep on doing it. again and again and again. eventually the coolant temperature will rise enough to move the needle in the oem cluster.

Why? In part, due to the tiny turbine, yes. But also because the compressor is tiny and puts out alot of heat also. basically the tiny journal bearing turbocharger is not up to the challenge without some help from an oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Simple enough.

That guy bought the car to re-sell. I was trying to keep from flat out saying "he is abusing the vehicle on the highway that is why the gauge is moving" but now that hes actually sold it, I guess its ok to point that out.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I like where you are going with this. As an example, use a redtop.

Take a redtop on the highway and repeatedly blast it to 100mph and back to 60mph. do it once. twice. three times. watch the coolant temperature start to rise. with me so far? keep on doing it. again and again and again. eventually the coolant temperature will rise enough to move the needle in the oem cluster.

Why? In part, due to the tiny turbine, yes. But also because the compressor is tiny and puts out alot of heat also. basically the tiny journal bearing turbocharger is not up to the challenge without some help from an oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Simple enough.

That guy bought the car to re-sell. I was trying to keep from flat out saying "he is abusing the vehicle on the highway that is why the gauge is moving" but now that hes actually sold it, I guess its ok to point that out.

I HAVE done that Never had an issue. probably 10+ 180's and Silvia in the past 10 years of me being in and out of Japan

Not to mention drifted them without an issue.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

I HAVE done that Never had an issue. probably 10+ 180's and Silvia in the past 10 years of me being in and out of Japan

Not to mention drifted them without an issue.

You HAVE done that, and so have I, hundreds of times, and never had an issue. the temperature gauge moving up a little bit is not a big issue. Remember it was a zenki gauge with a redtop engine; we have NO idea what the actual coolant temperature was. There is no water temp gauge in the vehicle. It was never overheating. ALL turbocharged engines will experince a slight rise in coolant temperature when you lay into them repeatedly. ALL of them. if the given coolant system is up the challenge, the coolant temp will level off at some point. We cant actually see if my car's coolant temp actually leveled off at some point because we have no gauge.

[Kingtal0n]

also keep in mind it had the oem thermostat which is something like 195*F. If the coolant temp rises a mere 15*F that would probably move the gauge in the cluster some. And a 15*F rise in coolant temperature is an acceptable expected number for a redtop being abused on the highway with an OEM radiator especially.

now, on to the real issue. A 3600-3900rpm cruise is a BAD THING for many engines. That could eat up the rod bearings over time. I am sorry if you disagree but this is a matter of opinion. No I have no personally run a redtop at 3900rpm for 150k miles and proven this; I could be wrong. But why take the chance? I am conservative when it comes to these engines. I want them to last forever. To make sure that happens, I would only run mine at 3000rpm maybe 3200rpm tops. I baby it because I want it to last. I wouldn't even spin it past 5500rpm. If you care about something, don't abuse it, amirite?

That engine was tight and clean. the oil came out looking like it went in. it stayed like that because I took care of it.

[Kingtal0n]

picture from before I started it for the first time, 4 years ago.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Wow, this thread just went full retarded...the fucks is the point of building these cars if you wont rev them pass 5500 rpm?

[Kingtal0n]

Oh I will rev an sr20 to 8k np np. Just not an OEM redtop that I daily.

heres me tuning one of my many sr20 on the dyno.
It hits 8k a few times. and 400+ horsepower.



Most people do not seem to understand, there is a time and a place for performance, and a stock redtop is not that place.