been working on my swap

[Bmxer300zx]

Man, wtf are you babbling about? If your worried about keeping the rpms below 3600 and disconnecting the turbo to stop the motor from overheating you sir need to buy a fucking honda and DD that.
Ooh I cruise at 3500 rpms on highway for a few years never once came close to overheating and my engine under rocker covers are cleaner than that.
Fyi clean that swap up looks like a first time slop shop swap

[b4l]

If you guys are done with this other stuff you are talking about.

I wanted to say that my car started for like 5 sec then shut off at first the fuel pressure was at 55 ish then it diped down to 20ish and now the car does not want to start.

so i added a fuel pump to the list. i hope this takes car of the problem

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

You HAVE done that, and so have I, hundreds of times, and never had an issue. the temperature gauge moving up a little bit is not a big issue. Remember it was a zenki gauge with a redtop engine; we have NO idea what the actual coolant temperature was. There is no water temp gauge in the vehicle. It was never overheating. ALL turbocharged engines will experince a slight rise in coolant temperature when you lay into them repeatedly. ALL of them. if the given coolant system is up the challenge, the coolant temp will level off at some point. We cant actually see if my car's coolant temp actually leveled off at some point because we have no gauge.

I love how your story continues to change, Now it doesn't really overheat cuz you failed to install a $10 part from autozone.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

also keep in mind it had the oem thermostat which is something like 195*F. If the coolant temp rises a mere 15*F that would probably move the gauge in the cluster some. And a 15*F rise in coolant temperature is an acceptable expected number for a redtop being abused on the highway with an OEM radiator especially.

now, on to the real issue. A 3600-3900rpm cruise is a BAD THING for many engines. That could eat up the rod bearings over time. I am sorry if you disagree but this is a matter of opinion. No I have no personally run a redtop at 3900rpm for 150k miles and proven this; I could be wrong. But why take the chance? I am conservative when it comes to these engines. I want them to last forever. To make sure that happens, I would only run mine at 3000rpm maybe 3200rpm tops. I baby it because I want it to last. I wouldn't even spin it past 5500rpm. If you care about something, don't abuse it, amirite?

That engine was tight and clean. the oil came out looking like it went in. it stayed like that because I took care of it.

Wow you don't even know when the OEM thermo opens at correctly.. The OEM thermo opens at 170*F not 195*F

What is so bad about 3,600+rpms? Do little magical elves form and start hammering on Rod bearings?

If 3,600 rpm harmful to the engine why did Nissan set the rev limiter to 7,500 RPM and not 3,600?

Why is it that every SR in the states not suffer from this bearing failure issue?

If 3,600 was such an issue then they would have all died a long time ago.

You do know when you get engines to "swap" you get the bottom of the barrel engines (much like the majority of the US) that were at one point missiles that were beat the fuck out of on a weekly basis until the chassis was too bad to drive, especially if an American owned it, cuz 70% of the time they never changed the oil in it.

It's impossible to make an engine last forever without rebuilding it.

Yeah oil tends to look cleaner longer when you drop the lower pan and clean out all the left over oil that doesn't come out during a regular oil change.

Mine looks like that too after drift events and my 400+ mile trips for 7 hours straight.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Oh I will rev an sr20 to 8k np np. Just not an OEM redtop that I daily.

heres me tuning one of my many sr20 on the dyno.
It hits 8k a few times. and 400+ horsepower.


Most people do not seem to understand, there is a time and a place for performance, and a stock redtop is not that place.

Why not a Red top? You do know that all RWD SRs use the exact same internals right?You probably didnt though.

Time and a place? a Red top is not a place? the fuck are you smoking?

Why is it that my customers running stock bottom ends and a GT2871R that DD them and drift them not have any issues in Louisiana 100+ heat?


I dont think one person has agreed with any of your crack pot theories, So obliviously you are wrong in every aspect

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by b4l

If you guys are done with this other stuff you are talking about.

I wanted to say that my car started for like 5 sec then shut off at first the fuel pressure was at 55 ish then it diped down to 20ish and now the car does not want to start.

so i added a fuel pump to the list. i hope this takes car of the problem

For starters your fuel pressure is too low....Raise it to 42 with vac disconnected.....

[b4l]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

For starters your fuel pressure is too low....Raise it to 42 with vac disconnected.....

why would it be high at first then go low. also the hummmmming that the pump does at the start well it just stoped doing that. can that be because the filter was dirty. i live in the desert and its been 1.5 years since i crank it over been building this car for a long time. and also this setup was on another member car so the fpr should already be set

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by b4l

why would it be high at first then go low. also the hummmmming that the pump does at the start well it just stoped doing that. can that be because the filter was dirty. i live in the desert and its been 1.5 years since i crank it over been building this car for a long time. and also this setup was on another member car so the fpr should already be set

It is possible. Either low fuel in tank or fuel pump is dying

Never trust others ppl work, How do you know the PO knew what they were doing.

[b4l]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

It is possible. Either low fuel in tank or fuel pump is dying

Never trust others ppl work, How do you know the PO knew what they were doing.

he works at a ligit shop

also i do have low fuel but i did put 2 gallons

can it be the filter that is fucking it up. and the buzzing that the fuel pump does just stoped.

[Bmxer300zx]

Buy a $14 z32 fuel filter at the auto parts store if you even have to worry about it. Also check the bag on the pumb maybe its clogged if you have a dirty tank. As far as wiring its simple if you need to check hardwire it and see if it works could be bad grounds or not seeing proper voltage. Another is get a multi meter even a cheap $20 one is better than assuming its wired right.

[b4l]

Originally Posted by Bmxer300zx

Buy a $14 z32 fuel filter at the auto parts store if you even have to worry about it. Also check the bag on the pumb maybe its clogged if you have a dirty tank. As far as wiring its simple if you need to check hardwire it and see if it works could be bad grounds or not seeing proper voltage. Another is get a multi meter even a cheap $20 one is better than assuming its wired right.

A z32 fuel filer would not work on my an lines but im going to try the other stuff you are saying as soon as i get back from school.

[b4l]

also forgot to ask if anyone have a pic of the fuel lines that two metal lines that head to the bottom of the car just to make sure i connected the lines right. a pic would be cool. thanks

[b4l]

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

I love how your story continues to change, Now it doesn't really overheat cuz you failed to install a $10 part from autozone.

A proper coolant temperature sensor + autometer gauge is more than $10. I would have welded the fitting into the upper coolant outlet, done it right. Didnt feel like it, because, wasnt necessary. Car was never giving me any trouble or reason to. I am not surprised you think a $10 part belongs on a Nissan engine. its easy to point fingers and poke fun on the internet.

Wow you don't even know when the OEM thermo opens at correctly.. The OEM thermo opens at 170*F not 195*F

Again, dont really care. never had any trouble so why bother it? I could have googled the temp if I wanted.

What is so bad about 3,600+rpms? Do little magical elves form and start hammering on Rod bearings?

If 3,600 rpm harmful to the engine why did Nissan set the rev limiter to 7,500 RPM and not 3,600?

How does this make any sense. Nobody is cruising at 7,000rpm, so I am not sure what you are trying to say. I already said its a matter of opinion, drive your engine the way you want to. Ill drive mine the way I want to. Build a couple SR20's, RB's, 2j's, V8's, learn a thing or two about rotating mass and physics, and maybe you wont want to cruise at 3500+ anymore either.

Why is it that every SR in the states not suffer from this bearing failure issue?

If 3,600 was such an issue then they would have all died a long time ago.

LOL where have you been? last time I checked, the majority of swapped SR20's, especially redtops, suffer piston ring and/or bearing failure. They are a dying breed.

It's impossible to make an engine last forever without rebuilding it.

Oh, so if I rebuild an engine, it will last forever? Thats what you just said. It must be true cause you said it.

Yeah oil tends to look cleaner longer when you drop the lower pan and clean out all the left over oil that doesn't come out during a regular oil change.

Mine looks like that too after drift events and my 400+ mile trips for 7 hours straight.

the truth is, oil color is no indication of oil quality. you need to send it somewhere if you really want to know how much life is left.

Why not a Red top? You do know that all RWD SRs use the exact same internals right?You probably didnt though.

what does the internals of any engine have anything to do with the turbocharger on it? or the camshaft profile? You clearly misunderstand my point. again.

Why is it that my customers running stock bottom ends and a GT2871R that DD them and drift them not have any issues in Louisiana 100+ heat?

Talk is cheap. I posted up 10+ SR20DET swaps, pictures and plenty of dyno graphs and even videos that include tuning and air/fuel curves of my stuff... and all youv'e done is run your mouth. talk talk talk.

Keep talking. Im sure it makes you feel better. Post up some videos of engines you've built and tuned.

[b4l]

IF you are not trying to help me with my swap take that smack talk somewere else. im trying to get my swap running. since you have over 10 swaps then post you'r help on here and stop fucking up my thread.

[cotbu]

Usually the fuel on the aeromotive units, flows in to the sides and out through the bottom. Maybe it doesn't matter with your model? just saying!

If your unsure of which line is which(feed or return)? Put hoses on both. place hoses in separate bottle/bucket, prime the pump. the one with fuel is the feed. And should go directly to the fuel rail. The other line should go to the bottom of the regulator.

[b4l]

Thats the way it was sent to me but thats a great answer. Im going to googel that right now thanks.

[cotbu]

I edited that post for the confirmation of fuel lines too!

[b4l]

I looked at my friends car and the fuel lines match up im not going to have a chance to mess with it today. I will wake up early and work on the car then and test something first then

the only thing I have check so far is the fuel pump it self. It works great so thats off the list.

[b4l]

the way i have it setup.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

A proper coolant temperature sensor + autometer gauge is more than $10. I would have welded the fitting into the upper coolant outlet, done it right. Didnt feel like it, because, wasnt necessary. Car was never giving me any trouble or reason to. I am not surprised you think a $10 part belongs on a Nissan engine. its easy to point fingers and poke fun on the internet.

No but a S14 Coolant temp sensor cost about $10 from autozone. It'll read more accurate then what you had in there.

Again, dont really care. never had any trouble so why bother it? I could have googled the temp if I wanted.

uhh yeah you did have trouble if you went a certain speed/RPM.

How does this make any sense. Nobody is cruising at 7,000rpm, so I am not sure what you are trying to say. I already said its a matter of opinion, drive your engine the way you want to. Ill drive mine the way I want to. Build a couple SR20's, RB's, 2j's, V8's, learn a thing or two about rotating mass and physics, and maybe you wont want to cruise at 3500+ anymore either.

wow you are dumb, let me break it down into Florida language: YOU SAID 3,600 RPM IS BAD FOR SR ENGINE, If SO WHY DIDN'T NISSAN SET REV LIMITER AT 3,600?

LOL dude ive been working and building SR/RB/1J/2Z/4AG for the last 10 years

LOL where have you been? last time I checked, the majority of swapped SR20's, especially redtops, suffer piston ring and/or bearing failure. They are a dying breed.

Ive been here for the last 6 years and obliviously a more active member than you, and this whole time I've see ppl spin bearings more in KAs than SRs. Only time Ive seen someone with a spun SR bearing is when they do something stupid (improper tune) or improper bearing clearances when being built.

Maybe they are a dying breed down there in Florida, because Florida retards keep blowing them up or ya'lls importers buy shit engines.

Oh, so if I rebuild an engine, it will last forever? Thats what you just said. It must be true cause you said it.

Uhhh yeah if you rebuild it when it needs to be before bearing failure it can almost last forever. Or you can just replace the crank and re sleeve they block when the OEM sleeve wear out from over boring .

the truth is, oil color is no indication of oil quality. you need to send it somewhere if you really want to know how much life is left.

Who said anything about an oil cooler? the fuck is wrong with you?

what does the internals of any engine have anything to do with the turbocharger on it? or the camshaft profile? You clearly misunderstand my point. again.

You said you wouldnt beat on a OEM red top, why not? same internals/valve train as S14/15 SR's.

Talk is cheap. I posted up 10+ SR20DET swaps, pictures and plenty of dyno graphs and even videos that include tuning and air/fuel curves of my stuff... and all youv'e done is run your mouth. talk talk talk.

Keep talking. Im sure it makes you feel better. Post up some videos of engines you've built and tuned.

lol I dont have to prove shit to you, im fairly known on here to any of the ppl that follow build threads, I have 4 build threads of my own on here so if you wanna know you can search yourself.

I have a SR AE86 swap i literally slapped together in a parking lot with left over parts from customers thats more reliable than your cars. I never had any issues cruising on the interstate and drifting it on the track with my Red Top with a T25 running at 3,600 rpms and it had a junkyard radiator in it for a while.

So yeah, this is no longer amusing beating this horse. So have a nice day.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by b4l

IF you are not trying to help me with my swap take that smack talk somewere else. im trying to get my swap running. since you have over 10 swaps then post you'r help on here and stop fucking up my thread.

dude if you cant figure out which line fuel come out of you have bigger problems.

Heres a hint, undo all 3 lines apply power to pump which ever line shoots fuel out goes to the rail

why the fuck is there a fuel filter on the FPR?

[b4l]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

dude if you cant figure out which line fuel come out of you have bigger problems.

Heres a hint, undo all 3 lines apply power to pump which ever line shoots fuel out goes to the rail

why the fuck is there a fuel filter on the FPR?

Thats how they sent it to me.

Thats the fuel supply line
same reason you have one in your car.
I already know were the lines go. Im going to check wiring next
The black/pink wire I think it got lose. Or something from there

[b4l]

SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by b4l

Thats how they sent it to me.

Thats the fuel supply line
same reason you have one in your car.
I already know were the lines go. Im going to check wiring next
The black/pink wire I think it got lose. Or something from there

Thats totally wrong.

The FPR goes on the return side of the system only.

The FPR regulates pressure in the rail by restricting the fuel going to the tank.

They way you have it set up is its regulating the fuel pump pressure in between the pump and the FPR witch is pointless

It should go, pump>filter>Rail>FPR>tank

where does the fuel coming out of your rail going?

[b4l]

the way this guy had it setup im beliving its the same hose. aka the green line in my pic.

thats why im on this fourm asking questions
i have never setup a an fuel before so i just put it how he had it.

[b4l]

ok guys so I took a quick look before i start to cook for my kids and the fuse is poped. So now i need to find out why it would pop then put in a new fuse.

[ShadowMan]

Here's how your FPR should be set up. I can't tell from your pic exactly whats going on. Bottom line goes to the return line to the fuel tank, the line to the left is coming from the fuel rail, the other port is blocked off in this pic. You can run the line from the fuel rail to either left or right port as long as the opposite one is blocked off. This off the rail style FPR is after the fuel rail. So the order should be fuel pump-feed line-fuel rail-FPR-return line. You only use both ports if you have 2 fuel rails i.e. V6, V8, or V how ever many cylinders you have, or the fuel pressure gauge is fed from the 2nd port directly.

[b4l]

ok guys my car is geting fuel now i fix that during the week. only now my car still does not want to turn on. i check to see if ecu has power and it does, checked each wire to each sensor one by one and they all have power, now when i was checking for power i had left the key to the on position and my coil was melting any ideas

[b4l]

it was coil number 4 or the one closest to the radiator. that coil was burning hot when i tryed to turn it on and then it melted

[b4l]

Originally Posted by ShadowMan

Here's how your FPR should be set up. I can't tell from your pic exactly whats going on. Bottom line goes to the return line to the fuel tank, the line to the left is coming from the fuel rail, the other port is blocked off in this pic. You can run the line from the fuel rail to either left or right port as long as the opposite one is blocked off. This off the rail style FPR is after the fuel rail. So the order should be fuel pump-feed line-fuel rail-FPR-return line. You only use both ports if you have 2 fuel rails i.e. V6, V8, or V how ever many cylinders you have, or the fuel pressure gauge is fed from the 2nd port directly.

oh and thanks for this info it help me out alot

[ShadowMan]

Your welcome. It sucks trying to figure out multiple problems all at once, especially when fixing one issue just leads you to another. As far as that melted coil goes, there is no reason leaving your ignition in the 'ON' postion should melt a coil, (it never happened to mke anyway), unless there is a bigger issue there. I would follow those wires from that coil and see if you can find a short or something. Try and break your problems into 3 catagories in the future to simplify things for yourself, Air-Fuel-Spark. It sounds like it just may be your pump, so install a new like you said and see what happens there. You can just watch the "For Sale" section on here for a few days, someone is always selling those individually or as a set for a price that won't cost you your left nut. I think they are like 80 bucks new depending on who you go through, if you just want to be sure you're getting good ones. Keep going, it'll be worth it when you drive that pig. Plus the feeling that you figured it all out and fixed it yourself instead of paying someone else an obscene amount of money to do it will make it all the sweeter.